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Member postings for Hopper

Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Small saw. Proxxon or something else
28/04/2021 09:19:57

The world is full of millions of small items made from sheet metal and pretty much none of them are cut with a grinding disc or saw blade in a production environment.

Traditionally a guillotine would be used to do something like you want, giving a straight cut edge. I don't know where you get your information on the rounded edge in the drawing you posted, but if the clearance between the guillo blades is zero that tiny radius on thin sheet will be undetectable by the naked eye, if that is what you mean by "optically flat". Ask your local sheet metal shop to cut some samples for you and try them out.

Otherwise, consider precision laser cutting. Something like this **LINK**

There are probably small benchtop machines available but you'll have to do your own research on that. If your budget does not stretch that far, consider contracting the job out to somebody like the linked company but local to where you live.

Thread: Stop ended Tee slot in Meehanite
17/04/2021 13:31:50
Posted by John Haine on 17/04/2021 11:54:18:

I suspect the Amolco (if it's like the one I used to have) might struggle with a 3/4 tee slot cutter TBH.

The M-Type T slot is only 9/16" (.562) wide so should not be a problem.

If its done as Andrew suggests with the centre slot milled a few thou deeper than required, the T cutter is only working on the two edge areas. The central slot is., from memory, about 3/8" wide so a cutter with a good sized shank can be used.  The M-type's T slots are a bit larger than the later ML7s but not much.

 

 

 

Edited By Hopper on 17/04/2021 13:37:22

Thread: Lathe recommedation
17/04/2021 13:15:55

Zombie thread alert. The OP was made in 2014 so he has probably made his buying decision by now, and gone on to wear out his first lathe.

The current enquiry is looking for a threading attachment for a Toyo lathe.

Edited By Hopper on 17/04/2021 13:17:07

Thread: Bassett-Lowke
17/04/2021 06:45:55

When those kids get a bit older they might graduate to some steampunk model engineering like this example, which I though was rather good.

punk.jpg

punk2.jpg

Thread: Trademark Infringements
17/04/2021 06:22:12
Posted by jimmy b on 17/04/2021 06:09:46:

I'd be surprised if any supplier to the model engineering world would be able to give a proper material cert.

Jim

Indeed. Usually only done for aircraft metals and the like. And the cert costs as much as the metal. Not something that would sit well with ME types.

Thread: Lathe recommedation
17/04/2021 05:58:04

YOu would be better off posting your enquiry in a new thread as this one is 7 years old and no longer relevant. If you put Toyo and Proxxon in the headline it should get some attention from other owners. They are a nice little lathe those old Toyos, from the couple I have seen.

Edited By Hopper on 17/04/2021 06:23:46

Thread: Two Myfords
17/04/2021 05:38:27

It is usual to regrind the surface of the saddle that runs on the bed so you have two new mating surfaces. The vertical guiding surface will need attention too, as they wear and allow the saddle to kick around at an angle. The best way to do this on your pre-1972 narrow guide model is to do the simplest wide-guide conversion. Attaching a strip of 1/2" wide gauge plate about 1/16" thick to the longer rear vertical surface of the saddle will then utilise the unworn rear vertical bed shear for guiding. Or you could get the orignal narrow guide surface reground along with the rest.

See MEW issue 287 has an article explaining the simplest way to do the wide guide conversion, not requiring a milling machine like the other methods used previously by Radford and others.

Thread: Looking for a block of cast iron please
17/04/2021 05:30:43

Steel is not so gawdawful messy to machine too. I made my "gibraltar' style toolpost support/topslide eliminator out of two pieces of 20mm x 75mm flat steel bar welded together. Longer piece for the base and the second "deck" welded on top of that was the same size as the 4-way toolpost sat on top of it. Works a treat. Rigid and does not foul the tailstock.

Edited By Hopper on 17/04/2021 05:31:28

Thread: Trademark Infringements
17/04/2021 05:26:33

Sounds like the term meehanite is going the way of words like kleenex, hoover and plexiglass. The trade names have come to refer to the product in general, regardless of maker.

Thread: ML7 tight saddle
17/04/2021 05:24:52

Yes, looked after they will give years of good service. 80+ years out of my old M-Type so far. It pays to take the saddle off and give it a good clean once a year or so I reckon. All kinds of tiny bits of grit can get in there and build up.

The rubber apron on the leading edge of the saddle is probably the No.1 best mod you can make on a Myford, or any other lathe for that matter. But as you have found, still not 100 per cent elimination of grit.

Thread: Myford Backplate tapered thread size
16/04/2021 12:19:10

If you mean a standard ML7 backplate, no it is not quite the same. The ML7 register collar is slightly larger diameter than the thread, maybe about 1-1/4" or so. Tony at lathes.co.uk does sell a range of backplates, he may have one suitable for the ML4 spindle.

The thread in your pic looks well used but still useable. The chuck is located by the register collar and the face on the shoulder behind it, so a sloppy thread is not the end of the world.

Thread: Two Myfords
16/04/2021 07:44:52

Seems a shame to ruin one lathe to fix another.

You might be better off to get the Super 7 bed reground here **LINK** and then tidy up the ML7 and sell it to more than recover your costs.

Or if the Super 7 is the pre-1972 narrow guide version, it might be possible to salvage the bed as is by doing the wide guide conversion.

For a Super 7 I would spend the money on the regrind.

Edited By Hopper on 16/04/2021 07:58:55

Thread: Bassett-Lowke
16/04/2021 06:57:24
Posted by Graham Stoppani on 16/04/2021 05:56:34:

Forgive the slight hijaking of this thread, but as a Northampton lad (W.J Bassett Lowke's home town) can I recommend if you are ever out this way you pay a visit to 78 Derngate.

W.J Bassett Lowke commissioned Charles Renee Mackintosh to design his home, the only house ever to be designed by Mackintosh. The final result was an amalgam of ideas from the two men.

**LINK**

Well if Mr Bassett Lowke had anything to do with that wallpaper he deserves to have his name dragged through the mud by small boys mounted on steampunk locomotives. laugh

As far as the steampunk toys go, I think they are great. Kids of today will love them. Better than looking at smartphones all day long. And kids of 50 or 100 years ago would have too, if they had been available instead of the boring old square Lego blocks.

Besides, we never had Lego. Luxury that was. Old sticks was all we had. Pater used them to beat us to death every evening when he got home from work. But up until then we had a wonderful time playing with them. With a bit of imagination they could be everything from a sword to a bludgeon. And did double service for poking the cat as well. And cousin Albert built his own aeroplane out of them that almost got off the ground before it rolled out in front of the Number 10 bus and he was crushed flat. Oooh Pater was wild that day to see our sticks all covered in sticky red blood. Beat us all to death twice for good measure.That's how it was back in those days.

But try telling that to the young people of today and they won't believe you.

Edited By Hopper on 16/04/2021 06:59:01

Edited By Hopper on 16/04/2021 07:10:02

Thread: Myford Backplate tapered thread size
16/04/2021 03:13:10

Looks like one of the ML1 to ML4 series. Maybe a late ML4 with the V belts but has the earlier side-plate tailstock. Plethora of info on lathes.co.uk on the subtle variations **LINK**.

Apparently no serial number records survive today. D1 is some kind of casting identification code used by the factory/foundry and not indicative of the lathe model nomenclature.

But the ML1-4 over the years increased spindle thread size from 7/8" to 1-1/8". All were parallel threads with a parallel plain register collar behind the thread.

They are a useful old lathe capable of good work with a bit of care and understanding.

There are quite a few ML1-4 owners on the forum who will be able to provide more detail.

 

Edited By Hopper on 16/04/2021 03:40:34

Thread: A monoblock twin study
15/04/2021 23:17:46
Posted by Gerhard Novak on 15/04/2021 13:59:00:
Posted by Hopper on 14/04/2021 23:53:37:

Looks good. Is it usual to have 90 degree crank offset on such steam engines?

As Jim said this setup allows self starting from any position. As you have double acting pistons (minimum on my model) you divide the power into 4 equal parts, with a peak every 90 degrees. This gives you the smoothest running possible. Of course, the power is not completely equal between the piston going up or down, as during the "up" cicle you lose the area of the piston rod and you may have some loss due to the gland packing of the rod.

But let's leave this aside, I am happy if the machine runs!

Jim, lovely machine! You went for a reversing valve - am I right?

I am not sure what to do - I would like to have a Stephenson valve gear, but there is not too much space available. Anyway, I can make that later, I just need to leave enough vertical space for it.

Ah yes of course the dowiuble-acting makes "firing" intervals all even. Ingenious. Plus the self starting aspect.

Looks like it will be a little beauty when finished.

Thread: Drunken pulley
15/04/2021 23:11:03

There are applications where pulleys are at 90 degrees to each other, such as tranferring drive from a horizontal shaft to a vertical shaft. Yet others run the V belt crossed to reverse direction of rotation between two shafts. So 2mm runout on a pulley is not going to cause any kind of unacceptable belt wear. The belt is rubber. It bends and flexes. It's on a 50 year old pump that has been running just fine. Leave it alone.

If it were the drive on your lathe, you might have cause for concern about vibration being transferred to the turning job and surface finish patterns etc.

But if you just want to do the job for the sake of doing it, make sure as Bob D says, the shaft is straight, unburred and unworn first. And check the pulley rim is not bent or warped. Then fit an undersized bush and bore the ID out to final size after fitting, setting the rim of the pulley true on the faceplate first. Those bushes don't always press or shrink in dead straight and true.

Thread: A monoblock twin study
14/04/2021 23:53:37

Looks good. Is it usual to have 90 degree crank offset on such steam engines?

I know the new Triumph motorcycles use such a crankshaft but they fire only every second stroke so are regarded as a 270-degree crank. One guy I know made a 350cc two-stroke engine with 90 degree crank and it vibrated something awful due to firing every stroke. But a steam engine is a much gentler machine of course. Just wondering if it was done commonly so the engine could be started in any position etc?

Thread: Laptop with a SD card slot
14/04/2021 23:45:20

My HP Pavilion laptop purchased about 12 months ago has an SD slot. Never had any trouble with HP gear. My old HP is going on for 8 years old and still in use. Seems bulletproof.

Thread: Myford Backplate tapered thread size
14/04/2021 23:39:18

The tapers don't sound anything like Myford chucks. Something weird is going on.

Before you can get any kind of meaningful advice, you really need to identify from lathes.co.uk what model of Myford you have. And posting some pics of the tapered spindle and threads would be most helpful.

Thread: BSP tap needed
14/04/2021 23:28:37
Posted by pgrbff on 14/04/2021 17:18:26:

As a woodworker I don't often need taps. I want to make up a mixing valve for my sandblaster and need to tap a 1/4" BSP hole in the side of a 1 1/4" iron tube. I'd prefer to buy only one tap and I'm not sure which would be the best choice. Are BSP threads always tapered?

You need to look at the fitting you want to screw into the tapped hole. If the male thread on the fitting is tapered, you will need BSPT tap. (T for tapered.) Most ordinary black or galv pipe fittings will be the tapered thread, put together with thread tape or sealant.

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