Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: beam engine|
You'll have even more fun when you come to figuring out the Watts parallel motion linkage at the other end of the beam. Enjoy!
|Thread: Mystery Round Thing - A New Thought|
I remember seeing similar looking Feng Shui calculators made of brass and full of cryptic symbols in the shops in Hong Kong. No idea what they all meant though. But I dont think that is what our mystery object is.
|Thread: Levelling Myford Super 7|
Too long. To test the bed alignment you need to not use the tailstock centre. So a piece of 1" bar about 4 to 6 inches long with no tailstock centre is the usual turning test piece.
After that is set, you can then use a longer piece with a tailstock centre in place to set the offset adjustment of the tailstock so the machine turns parallel between centres.
The Myford ML7 Owners Manual has a very good description of both leveling and and test piece turning procedures to set up a new lathe. It recommends the turning test alone as being suitable if no precision level is available. PDF copies freely available on the net if you google it.
Precision levelling of the bed can be a bit of a waste of time on old worn lathes. A few thou of wear in different spots on the ways can a) Throw out the reading of the precision level and b) Throw out the movement of the carriage causing the lathe to turn out of parallel even with a perfectly levelled bed.
A turning test of a piece of 1" diameter steel about 4 to 6 inches long with no tailstock in place is a better way to go in the real world.
Other than that, the lathe can be set at any old angle. I set my lathe bench up so the drip tray funnels all the oil to the back corner where I can scoop it out from one place. Then set the lathe flat on the bench on its riser blocks and set it up the last few thou using the above turning test. It turns parallel within a few tenths of a thou over 6".
Edited By Hopper on 08/05/2021 00:18:10
|Thread: Can one buy pliers with parallel jaws that lock like mol|
My apologies for wasting your time. Don't worry, it won't happen again.
|Thread: First attempt at trepanning.|
Yes 4mm square could be a bit small. I have done similar jobs and used a piece of 10mm square ground more like a parting tool but with the extra clrearance on one side for the curve of the resulting groove.
Looks like you have the toolbit sticking out too far for such a small cross section too. Might work better if you can tuck it back in by 50 per cent or more.
Also, grinding that notch on the top surface can cause problems if the back of the notch enters the groove because the parent material is wider than the tip of the tool because the tip is further down the tapered cross section. Hard to explain without pics, but I always run the top of parting tools dead flat for this reason. Grinding notches in the top leads to grief.
|Thread: Can one buy pliers with parallel jaws that lock like mol|
That's two completely different jobs, requiring completely different tools. Trying to do both with one will inevitably lead to compromises that make it less than ideal for either. No wonder the tool you are looking for "has not been invented yet".
For your first scenario, if you absolutely can't use a proper spanner, and can't bring yourself to use Mole Grips AKA Vice Grips in a pinch, you need a locking wrench like below. Combines a shifting spanner with a Mole Grip locking handle mechanism. The jaw stays parallel (withing the necessary working clearances of a shifting spanner jaw) and it clamps on tight.The Vice Grip action acts on the adjusting screw, not the jaw directly.
Then for your second scenario, holding small parts firm while work is performed on them, perhaps while itself being held in a larger bench vice etc, the correct tool is a toolmaker's clamp. They come in a wide variety of sizes and styles, some with one leg extended longer to clamp in a bench vice, others with one screw only so access to the other side is open.
You are wasting your time searching for a magical unicorn tool that will do both these functions well. Use the right tool for the right job. Obviously the locking wrench could be used to hold small parts but the tapered handle profile will not clamp well in a vice. And the toolmaker's clamp could be clamped on to a nut but needs more access space than the proper spanner for the job.
Personally, I use long-nosed Vice Grips to gently hold a nut to get it started on an obscured bolt behind something else etc where fingers won't fit, then once its on the thread, the proper spanner takes over. Where Vice Grips will fit, a spanner will too. And I still have the toolmakers clamps, including a larger flatter one with one long leg, I made as an apprentice. I don't use them that often, but when you need them they are gold. Buy a set of two each of two, four and six inch models. They are also very handy for holding small parts on the drill press.
Edited By Hopper on 07/05/2021 05:31:44
Edited By Hopper on 07/05/2021 05:34:31
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Toolpost issue|
The original Myford 4-way toolpost takes 3/8" tooling, about 9.5mm. So 12mm tooling will sit too high in it.
|Thread: Fitting a Drill Chuck Confusion|
If you are saying the arbor is a loose fit in the chuck body, which it appears to be in the pic, you need to give it a good whack with a brass hammer, or a hammer and brass drift or block of hardwood. This will drive the B16 taper into the chuck so that it stays there as a permanent fitting. Clean both tapers thoroughly before fitting together. Sit chuck firmly upright on on the bench for installation.
The arbor then can be installed in the tailstock, once the quill is wound out far enough and is usually seated home by a good swift ramming home, or a light tap with nylon hammer etc. Winding the quill back in should self-eject the chuck and arbor as a unit.
|Thread: Boring 16mm hole in stainless bar|
WAAAAAAY too slow. Second back gear is about 50 RPM. Try 500 RPM would be more like it. Or as you are using an oversized drill bit with a reduced shank, plus stainless can be a bit grabby, maybe the next slower speed of 200rpm. So leave back gear out of it.
Look up how to calculate your rpm to get the desired cutting speeds for different diameter jobs and materials. It is essential to all machining. Drilling a 6mm hole at 50rpm must have been painfully slow?
With the correct, or at least higher, RPM your drill bit will cut better and the feed rate relative to each turn of the job will be much finer, both of which will give you a better finish. Which as said is not critical inside a spacer but treat it as a learning experience.
Edited By Hopper on 03/05/2021 23:06:54
|Thread: Keyless chuck adaptor taper fitting|
I've found one good rap with a large copper-faced hammer does the job.too.
An ordinary hammer and block of hardwood or brass drift should work as well.
Edited By Hopper on 29/04/2021 00:47:21
|Thread: Myford ML7 headstock belt length|
I have a 23" AX23 cogged V belt on mine. But I remember when I fitted it, I had to put the locknuts on the tension adjusters on the "uphill" side of the swinging H frame so the mushroom headed adjusters could be screwed all the way in to accommodate the belt.
This puts the belt tension onto the thread in the soft Mazak metal H frame, which tends to distort over the years and eventually stripped one thread.
If I were doing it again, I would go with a longer belt -- maybe a 24" -- and put the locknuts on the "downhill" side of the H frame so the belt tension load is taken by the steel locknuts up against the body of the frame.But that would make the nuts a bit awkward to access with a spanner, so a bent spanner may need to be made up.
|Thread: Portable vice - buying advice sought|
Easy enough to make your own soft jaws from a bit of aluminium angle cut at the ends and bent around to clip on to the vice.
|Thread: Which type/brand of razor blades stay sharp longest? (cutting card/greyboard)|
Paper and particularly cardboard are very abrasive on cutting edges -- as you have found out! It will chew up the very fine edge on a scalpel made for cutting soft human tissue. Its not so much a matter of the blade material alone as also a factor of the acute angle on the scalpel edge. Makes it very sharp but not very wear resistant. For extended work, the carbide Stanley blades look like your best bet.
But what removes a super sharp edge can also restore it. You can use cardboard as a strop to sharpen a scalpel edge.
|Thread: New shaft in Oilite bushes?|
I didnt even go that fancy on my ML7 countershaft. Piece of bright mild steel bar (1020 grade under our system) has been running happily in Oilite type bushes for several years now. Probably not copping the hammering a power hacksaw would put on it but will definitely outlast me at the current rate. Main thing is to oil the bushes every time you use the machine. Your crankpin running in cast iron could get away with rarely being oiled but those sintered bronze bushings rely on the oil being kept up to them.
|Thread: Loctite and quartering wheels|
Propane torch. The sooner the better.
Henkel data sheets give info on cure times for their various grades. The green stuff can be very quick to grab. I've been caught with it before. The red stuff seems more forgiving but may not be as strong in grip.
|Thread: Help please!|
It's worth advertising it for sale with all its accessories. There are people who collect old machine tools, and others perverse enough to enjoy actually using them to make things! You could post an ad for free on this forum for starters.
If you post pics of the accessories on this thread we can tell you what they are called and possibly what they might be worth. The lathe with a good set of the accessories is the most desirable as they frequently seem to get lost over the years and are not easy to find in this day and age. If it has "all the gear" it should sell without difficulty.
Even as it is shown, it should sell ok as it looks reasonably well cared for, for its age. That spiffy two-tone paint job is a sign somebody cared about the old girl.
Edited By Hopper on 28/04/2021 09:55:50
|Thread: John Hinkley - Are You There?|
There is a Versatile Dividing Head ad that has been like that for several weeks now. Seems to be a quirk of the system. Presumably it has been sold and the ad taken down but its headline lives on. Although, several attempts to contact the seller previously garnered no response so not sure if the ad was a dud from the start.
|Thread: Does anyone know what this is for?|
Perhaps your good lady's friend could be persuaded to provide some more pictures of the other side of the machine, each end and the lower portion where the lever etc are, and maybe some close ups of the "business end" where the serrated roller is?
Otherwise, it's a bit of a case of
It certainly has the overall look of a sheet metal jenny used for beading and crimping etc but the extra gizmos, levers etc and the size of the rollers does not fit that ilk. Rope or canvas or leather working seems more likely. But more pics definitely needed to guess any further.
|Thread: Care home fees and what they want.'|
Seems like the same type of thing a bank would demand to see if you were asking for a mortgage, loan etc. to ensure you can meet your end of the financial obligations. Seems reasonable for a care home to exercise the same sort of due diligence before taking on the responsibility of mum's longterm and expensive care? If it turns out you can't pay, it can cost them a lot of money. Sadly, they are run as a business, not as a public service these days.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.