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Member postings for Hopper

Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: I may be stupid but
24/06/2022 09:27:12
Posted by Mike Hurley on 24/06/2022 09:15:10:
Posted by Rex Hanman on 24/06/2022 08:02:16:

If one hole is adequate, why would the manufacturer add others? There must be an advantage other than convenience.

My thoughts exactly!

As the bishop said to the actress. wink

Thread: There are locomotives.... and there are locomotives.
24/06/2022 07:23:45

She'd be a low flyer at 3,000psi! Luckily, he says he is only charging it with his normal 100psi workshop compressor. Quite intrigued by the axles made from square pipe. Reinventing the wheel ?

Thread: I may be stupid but
24/06/2022 07:19:31

Good quality chucks such as the old Crowns and Burnerds etc often had a "0" or other reference mark stamped on the chuck body next to the chuck key hole that was used in the factory to tighten the jaws for final grinding or testing. So they seemed to think at the factory that which keyhole you used could influence runout. The "tighten all four holes" regime seems to have come about more to ensure a tight grip with worn chucks (which begins the first time you use it) and does seem to work, and to help minimise runout in my experience. Ditto drill chucks. Or you could do like all the machinists in those YouTube videos from Pakistan Truckers etc whose preference is a good three-foot length of pipe over the chuck key handle. Seems to be universal over there. And it seems to work for them. I would hesitate to recommend it though.

Thread: Drummond type M tailstock alignment
22/06/2022 11:10:08

Castings are castings. The shape varies a lot. They are molten metal poured into a hole in the dirt. It's the machined surfaces that are important.

Thread: Understanding chuck test certificates
22/06/2022 02:16:38
Posted by ega on 18/06/2022 14:15:03:
Posted by Hopper on 18/06/2022 13:29:56:

On rereading the OP it seems Long V and Short V is an assumption by the OP. The chart itself only says LV and SV, which could be anything, even just randomly assigned model letters to identify different jaws. The OP should call Pratt Burnerd's UK HQ and enquire. But he has made his first and only post here and no return since so can't be too worried about it.

I may be missing your point but what about the asterisked footnote to the certificate?

haha. I thnk you didnt miss the point, I did. Didn't read the fine print. Story of my life.

Thread: Myford Super 7 Spindle Runout
22/06/2022 00:54:44

If you are running it in backgear it could be the meshing of the gears causing runout. Do it with no belt on the pulley, no gears engaged and rotate by hand. With dial indicator directly on the spindle.

Thread: How to achieve a clean edge when shortening small screws using a Dremel Cut off Blade Dremel EZ S
22/06/2022 00:39:23

Put a nut on the screw before cutting then screw it off after.

Edited By Hopper on 22/06/2022 00:39:53

Thread: Drummond type M tailstock alignment
22/06/2022 00:35:39

Looks about like mine. The eye bolts and cast plate included. Mine does not have the screws in the cast plate but has the holes where they once went. As Ady1 says the angled gib block at the front not showm in your pics is the main locator and requires careful adjustment so it clamps firmly . Then adjust the plate at the back to match it.

If you have 10 thou bed wear that may be part of your problem.

Thread: Info' that might be of use to Warco Lathe owners.
21/06/2022 12:46:58

So put some shim under the plate and tighten the bolts and it shold be ok.

21/06/2022 09:15:47
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 21/06/2022 08:49:22:

...

The Myford ML7 is a good lathe, but it can be criticised on cost-grounds.

...

It certainly can be, but it must be remembered it was developed and sold as a low-cost hobby lathe. It was quite a few pounds cheaper than the Drummond/Myford M-Type that it replaced as the Model-Engineer's favourite and massively cheaper in later years than rivals such as Boxford and Raglan. .

Thread: 5" gauge Kozo Hiraoka Shay
21/06/2022 03:53:38

Nice work. You have the old girl looking good. I saw a few full sized Shays in parks in the Rocky Mountains USA, former logging train engines. Fascinating machines.

Thread: Info' that might be of use to Warco Lathe owners.
21/06/2022 03:45:18
Posted by Bo'sun on 20/06/2022 15:56:46:

Good afternoon,

I've had my Warco WM250 for over a year now, with an outstanding warranty concern regarding "carriage lift" of around 0.018mm. Outstanding because of Warco supply issues and a domestic issue.

A 0.015mm feeler gauge inserted in the gap appeared to give satisfactory results without binding. So I set about removing the clamps to machine some material off and reduce the gap. However, all four bolts (two each side) were found loose. Simple I thought, just tighten them up, but tightening them up just locked the carriage. For the time being, I've been operating the lathe with them just tight enough to remove the lift without binding. I now have to work out a new machining regime. Seems strange to have a Gib at the rear of the carriage but nothing at the front.

Also, I found the two tailstock adjusting screws loose.

Good luck making a warranty claim on a .015mm gap there. That is about oil film thickness and will be deemed within spec. If you really want to close it up, do as you have and semi-tighten the bolts. Even better, cut a piece of shim of the correct thickness and put between the catch plate and carriage. A piece of .02mm shim should do the job. A piece of paper cut like a gasket might even do the job. But you then have to be sure that the bed surface is runs on is perfectly parallel to the top surface the carriage sits on, otherwise you will get binding at one end of the bed or the other.

It's unlikely to affect the performance of your lathe terribly except when the topslide is advanced so the tool bit is beyond the leading edge of the carriage, or when a boring bar is stuck out the front of the carriage. Possibly when taking interrupted cuts too. If using a rear parting tool, you should have the carriage locked anyway.

Edited By Hopper on 21/06/2022 04:08:19

21/06/2022 03:36:59
Posted by Dave Halford on 21/06/2022 00:01:36:
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 20/06/2022 18:58:51:
Posted by ChrisB on 20/06/2022 18:07:09:

My WM280 had the same issue, so probably they are designed that way. I put shims under the clamp until I could feel a slight drag when sliding the carriage by hand and tightened it down.

If this is what I think it is, I don't think its a fault.

The rear of the saddle is prevented from accidental lifting off but the feature doesn't steer or contribute to the saddle's accuracy. Accuracy is provided by the polished top of the prismatic bed, on which the saddle is machined to accurately slide, not the rougher surfaces below.

Normal cutting forces don't lift the saddle off the bed, they press it down. I think reducing the gap so the saddle actually touched underneath would reduce the lathe's accuracy by nudging the machined parts of the saddle off the machined parts of the bed.

Did the gap actually cause a problem when cutting metal, or is it just a worry that it might? Not an issue on my WM280, but perhaps I don't take the sort of cuts that might lift the saddle. Such as parting off with a rear tool-post such that the cutter is pulled up rather than pushed down, maybe?

Dave

That being so why do I have 15thou wear on my Rockwell Delta rear saddle clamp ?

Possibly from 15 thou of combined wear on the top surface of the bed and the surface of the carriage that runs on the top surface of the bed, lettting the whole carriage drop down, creating the gap on the lift plate?

Or possibly it left the factory like that? Wiith the Delta's long carriage "wings" extending forward of the toolpost it is hardly going to tilt the carriage when cutting with the topslide extended forward. Usiing a long boring bar would be about the only time any force was put on the carriage that might lift the back end of it a bit.

Or possibly from swarf ingress causing wear on the lift plate surface?

Thread: Myford Super 7 Spindle Runout
20/06/2022 23:01:34

Could be a hardened old V belt with a tight spot in it. Try testing with belt off the pulley.

Thread: Myford or Atlas lathe ?
20/06/2022 12:36:05

Welcome to the world of vintage lathists. You will have a lot of fun.

Thread: Bearings
20/06/2022 11:27:21

The knife guys seem to call them belt grinders for some reason. Probably goes back to Roman broadswords or something.

Thread: Edge finder lubrication
20/06/2022 11:22:47
Posted by pgk pgk on 20/06/2022 10:39:50:
Posted by Hopper on 20/06/2022 09:54:47:

Or just invest 10 Quid in an electronic edge finder. Are they not claimed to be more accurate? (I still use a fag paper and spit so would not know.)

That must gum up the fag paper over time.....😁

I'm terribly wasteful and cut each fag paper into narrow strips and throw each strip away after a couple of uses.

But I have actually ordered an electronic edge finder that is on its way as we speak. Yet to determine if it will work held sideways in the lathe for milling with vertical slide. I know the fag paper works better than the Starrett style wiggler for this. Gravity is a bitch.

Thread: Bearings
20/06/2022 10:07:58

YOu might find metric sized bearings easier to find and cheaper eg, 10mm x 26mm.

Grinders, counter-intuitively, usually use the steel-shielded bearings and not the rubber sealed ones because grinder motors often don't have enough torque on start up to overcome the friction of the rubber seals. Depends on what kind of motor on your shopmade grinder though.

Edited By Hopper on 20/06/2022 10:10:01

Thread: Meddings Dril Tru - What to do?
20/06/2022 09:59:04

Could you not just use the generic Type A pulley/s? Some are so cheap you could convert both pulleys to A belt and still come out ahead. Also, an A belt will run in an SPZ groove, as I do on the motor to countershaft pulleys on my Myford. Seems a shame to trash a good old machine for such a minor issue.

Thread: Edge finder lubrication
20/06/2022 09:54:47

Or just invest 10 Quid in an electronic edge finder. Are they not claimed to be more accurate? (I still use a fag paper and spit so would not know.)

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