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Member postings for Hopper

Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford Lever Action Tailstock Design and Build
21/05/2022 11:21:28

Thanks ega.

Length of travel on my lever tailstock is about the same as with the standard arrangement, maybe a half or quarter inch or so less. The quill has to stick out the back of the tailstock casting that little bit for the quill clamp to grip on to. But it will extend the quill out beyond the engraved lines on the quill, which I think is two or two and a half inches. Which is plenty for me. You can always slide the tailstock along for deeper holes. You could probably get a half inch or bit more out of it by making a stepped quill clamp that slid inside the tailstock body recess where the original handwheel fitted. But it's not something I thought important at the design stage.

I think to get anything like 94mm you would have to use the capstan style tailstock with the rack and pinion mechanism and lot longer quill. Someone mentioned making one of tose out of a small car rack and pinion steering box. But that's a whole nuther can o' worms!

21/05/2022 11:03:43
Posted by Hopper on 31/03/2022 11:07:54:

Which brings to mind the ball that goes on the end of the handle. Looks in some pics like it would be 1-1/2" diameter, in others maybe a little smaller. And some pics seem to show a taper on the lever leading up to the ball. I will probably order a bag of five 38mm (1-1/2" ) black plastic machine knob balls off eBay for peanuts. .But they will have to come from Hong Kong and there is a two month imports backlog at Customs due to Covid. We are sort of at the peak of the Covid wave right now that the UK went through some months back.

Hey look at what arrived in the mail today:


It only took 7 weeks! But now I am quite used to using the aluminium "temporary" ball I made, so will not bother to rethread the handle to fit one of these. I have a couple of other projects in mind that I can use them on. (Leadscrew dog clutch being one of them.)

Meanwhile, I have been giving the new lever tailstock a good workout, and I am loving it. Have been drilling many holes in the lathe ranging from about 1/16" to 11/16" for various jobs and some small sensitive centre drilling too. Once I got used to not having the handwheel there to grab to slide the tailstock along the bed, the lever version seems to be superior for all purposes, whether drilling, tapping, running a live centre or a dead centre etc. So the lever has officially become a permanent fixture on my lathe.

In fact, I like it so much I have made good progress on making a little brother for it, using a 0-4mm chuck for extra small sensitive drilling jobs, and a taper spindle that can be quickly whacked in and out of the tailstock quill when and as needed.


Thread: Fix my (new) Lathe
20/05/2022 14:45:46

Posted by Jonathan Peters on 20/05/2022 10:58:16:


I could slide a .01mm feeler gauge between the way and the clamp. Not sure what its proper name is. A .015mm gauge would not fit.


That is about the right amount of clearance for there. Much less and it will tend to bind. As SOD pointed out, the block is essentially a lift plate that comes into play only if using an inverted parting tool, or a boring bar sticking way out in front of the saddle, or the top slide extended far foward thus causing the saddle to tilt. If you do machine any off that block, you will have to add shims to get some clearance back again. Journeyman's linked page has some good info and ideas on it re that block.

I thought I recognised that lovely puce paint colour. See the thread that Michael Gilligan linked to in his above post re the adventures of one forum member's Optimum lathe. The lift-plate clearance was the least of his worries. Bed was bent like a banana by about 1mm from what I remember and machining was all-round pretty ordinary. But with a bit of fettling it became a useful machine and he has made a number of very nice working model engines on it.

Thread: New-style cover finish
20/05/2022 04:42:14

I haven't had a problem with any of the Mortons motorcycle magazines I have, which presumably come off the same press. But I buy them from the newsstand and they are a couple of months old by the time they get to the Deep North of Oz, so well aired out.

It may be that subscription copies are packed into their plastic wrapper as they come off the press, so the ink and glossy plastic paper surface are not properly dried out, creating the solvent smell and stickiness some seem to have found. Solution might be to unpack it on arrival and leave it lying around to air for a day or two before stacking etc. Standing them upright on a shelf etc for storage rather than lying down flat could help too I should imagine.

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2022
18/05/2022 22:25:23

Wow that looks like the way to fix cast iron. I never knew you could do that with a MIG. Thanks for the tip.

Thread: High Speed Bench Drill?
18/05/2022 22:17:14
Posted by DiodeDick on 23/04/2022 23:21:50:

There are some jobs that need a high speed. The twist grip lock barrel in the attached pic was/is secured by 2 x 1/16" pins from the inside. Tried to drill them out with regular drill press and the bit wandered off and started to chew the Mazak casting. The Meddings precision drill put the bit straight down the middle.

DickAmal carb

That is a very cool display piece/living room ornament, complete with locking twistgrip and all. Was it an Amal promo display or is it an artwork of your own concoction?

Thread: MEW No.316 just arrived - but what is that smell?
18/05/2022 09:17:21

Sounds like it was the solvent in the ink not fully dried out before packaging up in plastic. Most likely being printed on a new (as in different) press along with new owners Morton's other mags. New newspapers "hot off the press" smell like that. I always loved that smell at 1 o'clock in the morning when I worked in the industry.

Edited By Hopper on 18/05/2022 09:18:53

Thread: Myford ML4 change gear modification
18/05/2022 09:08:05

I have converted some keyed gears to the Drummond-style tapered pins on a number of gears that came in a box with the Drummond lathe. No problems at all. Just used an existing pinned gear as a drill guide. Never found the need to remove a pin. They stack easily because each gear has a pin and a hole set at 180 degrees so they fit together. For an idler gear, I always put another gear on the stud with it as a spacer anyway.

Making my own tapered pins was an interesting exercise but they worked well, as I had the correct reamer in the box with the gears. (And I even domed the ends in the proper way!) That said, parallel pins and Loctite is defo the easier way to go! And less likely to cause cracking in the very small 20 tooth gear where there is not much "meat" and the tapered pin can wreak havoc if tapped in too hard.

Thread: slipping chuck
18/05/2022 08:52:43
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 18/05/2022 08:25:25:
Posted by bricky on 17/05/2022 21:05:37:

The drill is a startrite Mk2 […]

I don't know what the quill taper is but the chuck is original.



It appears that the standard fitment was a Jacobs chuck, directly mounted onto the quill’s male J33 taper




Edited By Michael Gilligan on 18/05/2022 08:42:38

Aha! Thank you. That makes much more sense now.

In which case, Loctite is probably the most expedient solution. (No pun intended angry ) I won't specify the grade. One of their high-strength retaining compounds. But not the high-temp one if you ever want to get it off by using heat.

18/05/2022 02:50:21
Posted by bricky on 17/05/2022 21:05:37:

The drill is a startrite Mk2 and I have owned this, drill bought from a factory,Frank for 30+ years and never had a problem until now.I don't know what the quill taper is but the chuck is original.I don't take a a ball pein hammer to it but a dead blow hammer to just tap it back up.


So, is it the Morse taper going up into the quill that is coming loose? Or is it the short taper that holds the chuck on to the end of the arbor that is coming loose?

The latter can be fixed with Loctite. The former is probably some burring on either the male or female taper that needs removed.

Thread: Grease in oil lines
18/05/2022 02:46:18

+1 on what 'e said. Oil will dissolve the grease. Might make the oil a bit thicker than normal (matching the previous owner!) but flush a bit through and it should be ok.

Thread: MEW No.316 just arrived - but what is that smell?
18/05/2022 02:43:58

A lot of modern inks are soy-based. Does it smell like soy sauce?

Thread: Milling Table Flatness - What is acceptable
12/05/2022 00:31:00
Posted by Peter Smith 30 on 11/05/2022 13:34:17:

Hi ok, I assume from bottom edge of the dovetail as per the picture.



Measuring this distance with a micrometer should not be too difficult and will at least tell you where your tabletop is at in relation to the ways it runs on. It should be within less than a thou or so (.025mm) if you want to achieve that kind of accuracy in your finished job. Looks like it could be done without dismantling the machine.

If it is out by a similar amount to what you are measuring with your dial indicator, you have most likely found the source of your problem. Send it back as unfit for purpose. Or if you can't do that, take it to your nearest automotive machine shop and have them put it on their cylinder head grinding machine and take a skim over the table top surface (NOT the ways) to bring it into parallel. Or if you want to spend more money you can take it to a machine shop with a precision surface grinder.


Edited By Hopper on 12/05/2022 00:33:18

Thread: Ball bearing cups for bicycle hubs ?
11/05/2022 10:24:28

If the old races are through-hardened rather than case hardened, you can set them up in the lathe and regrind the ball track with a toolpost-mounted die grinder with a stone dressed to the right radius. This is standard procedure on vintage Harleys where the races are machined directly into the front hub and not replaceable. For a bicycle, a Dremel grinder would probably do the job.

Thread: Code of Conduct
11/05/2022 07:42:37

Two different things, asterisks on a forum and shittake with the last half covered in a public place full of children..

It's compromise not hypocrisy.

Ironic that the BBC quotes verbatim the words the other got into trouble over. Are they taking the pistachio?

Can't recall anyone ever swearing pn this forum, assterisked or otherwise. Far too articulate a bunch for that.




Edited By Hopper on 11/05/2022 07:43:34

Edited By Hopper on 11/05/2022 07:45:20

Thread: Cheap stuff
11/05/2022 04:21:22
Posted by Steviegtr on 28/04/2022 13:34:13:
Posted by Hopper on 28/04/2022 05:00:04:

Posted by Steviegtr on 28/04/2022 02:46:45:

A good example was a Mitututo spelt wrong . Height gauge 18" the digital version . Listed at around £450. I bought for £35 from a well known auction

Oooh, you do have to watch out for them. If the name was misspelled Mitututo or similar, it is a fake. A Mitututo label stuck on a cheap Chinese height gauge that sells on Aliexpress for about 11 Quid. Stick with the boot sales and UK/US made gear. Much more reliable.

I have a "Mitutoyo" dial test indicator that cost $20 with magnetic base bought from eBay. It does a turn and has lasted 5 years or more. But no way it ever saw the inside of a Mitutoyo factory. So common that Mitutoyo list all the ways to spot a fake on their website. Easy when you know what to look for.

I wish I could find Albrecht chucks at the garage sales around here. No such luck though. Keep us posted on your treasure hunts.

Sorry Hopper. I was meaning i had probably spelt wrong. Those items came from a Engineering auction It was in Sheffield. The 2 height gauges are proper items. They were just very dirty & needed a good clean.


Hi Stevie. Your latest post prompted me to go back and I found I had missed your previous reply to my post about the Mitutoto/Mitutoyo spelling. So sorry for barking up the wrong tree there. Yes indeed they were a screaming deal at that price as the genuine article. Well done! You are a man after my own heart. If I lived in the UK I would be that clearance company's best customer I am sure. Sadly nothing like it in the post-industrial Australia these days for the smaller workshop gear. crying

Thread: Ball bearing cups for bicycle hubs ?
11/05/2022 00:27:11

Excellent work! Turn a couple up from silver steel. Harden and temper and ride on.

Thread: New To CAD? No, but....
10/05/2022 11:25:24

Thanks SOD and MGN. I shall go and have a play with them.

10/05/2022 09:24:29

What's the best freeware to draw 2D images, suitable for doing dimensioned drawings to go with MEW magazine articles?

I've no interest in graduating to 3D in the future etc. Moving off the back of a fag packet is a major step for me.

Edited By Hopper on 10/05/2022 09:25:23

Thread: Anyone know what these are called?
10/05/2022 09:21:44

Your mission is to go back to the shop where you saw them and ask the shopkeeper what on Earth they are, then report back, as none of the rest of us have a clue.

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