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Member postings for Hopper

Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: V-Twin 100cc Design & Build
10/07/2019 01:27:46

Big advantage of a 90 degree V-twin is perfect primary balance. Start closing the V up and they start vibrating. Vis: 90-deg Ducati motorbikes vs 45-deg Harley-Davidson.

Looks like a nice engine in the drawings there. Should look pretty cool in the plane with those exposed rocker arms sticking out in the breeze on full view.

Edited By Hopper on 10/07/2019 01:31:12

Thread: In need of a steel ring 132mm dia
08/07/2019 11:56:32

Aha, man after my own heart. Well done. Nice when offcuts can be found rather than the expenditure of beer tokens on special orders.

Thread: What are these used for please?
08/07/2019 08:23:28

First pic looks like typical apprentice projects: stud clamps for holding threaded or non-threaded studs while end is filed or by the look of the hacksaw marks, screwdriver slot is cut in the end of the stud. No thread is needed to hold threaded studs in the split type clamps on the right.

Clamp is held in the vice while stud is filed or cut. Can be used to hold studs or punches while the end is shaped etc for special jobs.

Edited By Hopper on 08/07/2019 08:25:02

Thread: In need of a steel ring 132mm dia
08/07/2019 01:33:04
Posted by terry callaghan on 07/07/2019 12:44:00:

Thanks chaps, sorted now.

That's good. How did you sort it? Did you find a piece of pipe the right size in the end?

07/07/2019 10:26:54

You might be able to buy a steel pipe flange and turn the OD to 132mm then bore out the middle to size. Lot of swarf though.

Or pay the money to get a piece of 15mm plate cut in a circle laser cut or waterjetted to rough size.

 

Edited By Hopper on 07/07/2019 10:29:44

Edited By Hopper on 07/07/2019 10:57:33

Thread: AERO ENGINES
07/07/2019 03:31:02

Get yourself a copy of this book LINK

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
07/07/2019 02:15:45
Posted by Windy on 06/07/2019 16:24:39:

If you are feeling fit a simple way to align single cylinder cranks.

**LINK**

Looks scary to me. He could at least bolt down the stand with the lead block on top of it. Just begging to crush a finger with it flapping about all over the place like that.

I think with my fitness levels I'll stick with the traditional Thor copper mallet.

Thread: Hot water from the snifting valve,
06/07/2019 00:30:04

You might expedite things a bit by using full-size boiler practice and starting with the gauge glass only 1/4 full, or even a bit less. (Assuming you have a pump etc to top it up once steaming starts in earnest.) Depending on the boiler design, water will expand and come up the glass somewhat as it heats up. And filling with hot water from the kettle etc would cut firing time a bit more. Every little bit helps.

Thread: Cast iron - 160mm dia
05/07/2019 12:12:21

That's where theory deviates from practice. Maybe it's because Young's Modulus measures deformation under tension whereas cast iron's greatest strength is compressive? Or its superior resonance damping properties? Either way, I've never had much luck bending good grey cast iron. It usually seems to want to break before it will bend. Never managed to break a chuck backplate though. (One of the few things I have not managed to break over the years smiley )

Edited By Hopper on 05/07/2019 12:15:07

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
05/07/2019 08:39:57
Posted by thaiguzzi on 02/07/2019 04:53:08:

Another would be a genuine between centres crank aligner like HD used or a larger J&S bench centres.

I think you can still buy the Rowe crank truing stand with indicators which is in the HD style. Costs about $1,000 though.

Thread: Cast iron - 160mm dia
05/07/2019 07:47:10
Posted by John MC on 05/07/2019 07:37:52:

Seems that from the above posts cast iron is the preferred material for chuck back plates, why is that?

Cast iron is more rigid than mild steel. And it machines very nicely when cutting the thread in it, if a screwed spindle type. But for practical purposes, mild steel will do the job if need be.

Thread: Model Engineering Overseas
04/07/2019 11:49:00

Lost in the sands of time as far as I know. But you would hope the historic machine survived out there somewhere and didn't get sent to Japan in the scrap metal drives of the 1960s.

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
04/07/2019 11:09:01
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 04/07/2019 10:33:31:

Like to see a full report on you have Ron. There's a body of opinion that believes Far Eastern lathes won't last, and you have a real older model to explore.

It's only 20 years old. Almost new.

My Drummond was already that old when I was born. And it spent WW2 making aircraft parts, so saw more than typical model engineer use.

That's lasting that is...

laugh

Thread: Treppaning a flywheel
03/07/2019 09:12:07

Pics sure would help. Having trouble visualizing what what you are trying to do, and like Jason, why.

Thread: Modding a fixed steady
01/07/2019 11:50:14

Or cut the existing fingers down shorter to accommodate large diameter jobs, and make some longer bronze extensions to fit in the ends for smaller jobs.

Thread: Annealing stainless steel
01/07/2019 07:57:57

Carbide burr in a Dremel tool.

Thread: Milling Machine Identification
01/07/2019 05:19:29

If bearings are pre-war era they could be obsolete imperial size taper-roller bearings. Modern ones are (mostly) metric. Measure the shaft size and outer race outside diameter and look them up on the Timken website etc. Don't get cheap no-name bearings. Try to get Timken, SKF etc. Sometimes adaptor sleeves etc have to be made up to fit the next nearest size modern metric bearings to old imperial machinery. Have found this on vintage sidecar wheel bearings etc .

Thread: Corrosion or Stale Oil (in joint face)?
01/07/2019 05:07:33

Cutting fluid will discolor like that sometimes.

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
01/07/2019 05:04:41

Looks easy enough to make?

Thread: Modding a fixed steady
01/07/2019 04:53:08

What's stopping the fingers from sliding all the way out? That grub screw on the outer diameter of the steady? If so, remove the grub screw and use just the one in the middle? Maybe put a third grub screw in between the two existing ones to clamp the finger?. You'd have to lose the screwed adjustment, but just set the fingers in position manually and then lock up the grub screws, similar to the way a Myford steady works with its slotted fingers.

Or make shorter fingers. You could probably get away with just a flat down the side instead of that slot for the grub screws to locate in.

Or tap a thread down the bores of the three holes and make threaded fingers like this one:

dscn1078.jpg

That puppy is rock solid. Much much more so than the standard puny Myford item. Make the tips from hard bronze so they don't wear flats on there.

Edited By Hopper on 01/07/2019 04:56:46

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