Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Safety of phone chargers|
They are not really an earth leakage detector per se, although they are traditionally called that. They are a Residual Current Device that measures very finely the current in both the supply and return lines to the house. Any imbalance -- which means some electrickery is awol somewhere -- trips the breaker switch.
|Thread: Running M type motor underneath and what do I actually have?.|
Here's a pic of how I fitted the motor underslung below the bench on my M-type. I did it to get the motor right away from the swarf zone as it is the type that air is blown right into the windings and armature of the motor and hand become packed solid with swarf over the years.
It's easy enough to do, I just hung a flat plate on the undeside side of the bench and bolted the motor to the plate. Plate was pivoted at the front edge on a couple of angle-iron brackets to a pair of angle iron brackets bolted to the lathe bench. A length of threaded rod was attached to the rear of the plate and comes up through a hole drilled in the bench and tension is adjusted with nut, lock nut and flat washer. Motor weight holds the tension on the belt, as far as the nut lets the plate move.
The serial number you quote does not sound like M-type with the letter J in it. Not sure there. Lathes.co.uk has full listing of M-type numbers by year in the Drummond section, so you could check that and check their Myford section to see if it matches ML1-4 etc. And post some pics of your lathe here and someone can probably tell you what you have.
Some giveaways of a later Drummond M-type would be the use of V belts on the countershaft and headstock pulleys and the use of steel handles on the carriage traverse and leadscrew handwheels instead of the earlier black animal horn. I don't know that the M-type ever had Myford cast into the bed?
Edited By Hopper on 23/04/2019 05:48:15
|Thread: Lathe controls position|
Because if the chuck were on the right you'd have to reach over the back to wind the cross slide in and out and halfnut lever would be almost impossible to reach?
Edited By Hopper on 19/04/2019 12:03:08
|Thread: Model Engineer's Handbook printing error|
The one I bought four or five years ago had section 12 (Electrical) missing and doubles of section 10 (Boilers). Notified the publisher/supplier and they sent me another copy -- exactly the same!
Gave up at that stage but at least I ended up with one copy for the workshop and one for the armchair.
|Thread: Making Holes in Copper Sheet|
Clamp it to the faceplate in the lathe and trepan it with a parting-tool-like trepanning tool then finish to size with a boring bar? Or avoid trepanning by drilling a small hole in the middle and facing outwards with successive cuts to near the finished size then bore to finish.
Spindle speed? 400rpm or so should do the job.
Edited By Hopper on 19/04/2019 11:45:38
|Thread: Moving to Australia - Moving Workshop Machines|
I have a couple of pet canetoads that live in the backyard. I figure that wanting to wipe out an introduced species because it kills the native inhabitants is a tenuous position for a whitefella to hold in these parts.
There's nothing worth watching on free-to-air TV anyhow. Smart TV hooked to the Internet is pretty much essential.
All the best with the move. If you can get all those machines moved door to door for 2.5k you are streets ahead. You'd pay that much to get machines shipped to you from within Australia if you purchased such machines here from Sydney or Melbourne etc.
Don't worry too much about the humidity on your machine tools. WD40 and spray can lanolin do a good job protecting them. It's all I use here in the tropics with 8 feet of rain a year (yes, 8 feet!). So you won't have any insurmountable issues in Brisbane.
Most houses here have a double car garage attached to the house and plenty have a similar sized back shed as well if the previous owner had a boat or hobby workshop etc so should not be hard to find accommodation for your machinery. Check out www.realestate.com.au for an idea of the market. Housing prices are in a bit of a decline at the moment so you might snag a bargain.
|Thread: Alloy BSA M/C fork slider wear? bush material.|
Now that's damn clever. Well done indeed. Had me wondering there for a minute how you wuold ever true up the "deep" end of the hole. Brilliant!
Nice pile of single bangers you have there too.
|Thread: Where's my Dykem blue gone - there's no need to read this|
Obvious: It's in that special place you put it so you wouldn't lose track of it...
|Thread: Lathe controls position|
I set up the stop/start switch at the tailstock end of the bench, and the reversing switch at the headstock end. Five bob each way.
But generally use the tailstock end switch as I prefer to stand out of the line of fire of swarf and the constant mist of oil that old Myfords and Drummonds etc fling off the chuck from the total loss drip fred bearing set up. Maybe a longtime habit from using the old DSGs that had the clutch/brake lever on the tailstock end of the carriage so one tended to stand back there. Also was away from coolant flinging off job/chuck.
|Thread: Does anyone know where I can source a Myford 34t change gear?|
Put a WANTED ad on this site. I got several Myford gears to complete my set that way.
|Thread: Hard to please OAPs|
An irrit of old gits.
|Thread: Phosphor bronze half nut|
You can probably round up a new used backgear off eBay or the Yahoo Group for Drummondlathes.
Delrin half nuts can be made but not very easy to anchor to the odd shaped M-type casting. The brass spool described above can be soft soldered in place.
Yes you need a working lathe to make the new halfnut insert. I was lucky and had the skin of the teeth left on the halfnut, which was enough to make a new insert.
One alternative might be to grease up the leadscrew or cover it with thin plastic wrap then put epoxy repair putty into the clapped out halfnut and squeeze it up against the leadscrew to form it to the thread shape. I would not keep this as a long term fix because swarf could get embedded in the epoxy and wear the leadscrew terribly. But good enough to use to make a new brass insert and then solder that in place.
|Thread: Notre Dame|
From what I saw when I lived in Africa, an awful lot of "first world" government aid money goes to large companies based in the donor country to pay them to provide services, or build infrastructure in the recipient country. The money never leaves the donor country. It's just transferred from the public purse to the private sector there. The recipient country ends up with a nice new power station or railway as a secondary benefit of the deal.
So if the UK donates money to help fix Notre Dame, it could be paid to British building firms etc to go over and do part of the job, or to a UK firm to supply materials etc (or WHS fire prevention protocols ).
|Thread: Telescopic bore gauges|
Depends what size you want to measure too. For half-inch and under, ball gauges work better.
|Thread: Phosphor bronze half nut|
Phosphor bronze will wear the leadscrew . Better to use leaded bronnze ie gun metal. I used brass for mine. Did it on the m-type with what was left of the old halfnut in place.
Usual procedure is to tur.n up a bobbin shaped cylinder with small flange each end to take the load. Then take your old halfnut and mount it on the cross slide. Bore out the old threads until the bobbin fits. Then solder it in place. Has been described in MEW several times over the years.
But your halfnut can be incredibly worn before it needs replacing. The threads on mine were worn down to less than .015" thick and still worked perfectly. Bit of backlash does not matter under load.
Edited By Hopper on 16/04/2019 23:16:17
|Thread: Removing a grub screw|
Sometimes a dab of coarse valve grinding paste on allen key is enough to make it grip. Grinding off the worn end of the key helps too.
Otherwise a left hand drill bit is my go-to solution. Drill close to the thread root diameter and the shell usually spins out before drilling is complete.
Edited By Hopper on 16/04/2019 04:04:43
|Thread: Notre Dame|
He would be an interesting talk for sure. I read somewhere that Hele made a prototype Trident circa 1963 out of 2 500 twin motors. But got told nobody would buy multi cylinder bikes. Doh.
And yes my UK geography is sketchy at best. Still have trouble imagining somewhere 100 miles away is regarded as a different place. 😁
|Thread: Poor finish using indexable lathe tools on steel|
A big +1 on this.
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