Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How would this lathe tool be used?|
The radius is more theory than practice.
|Thread: Myford ML7 not running true and spirals|
|Get yourself a copy of L H Sparey's book The Amateur's Lathe and start from basics. Also Ian Bradley's book on the Myford 7 Series will help you understand back gear and other basic operating stuff.|
|Take Chuck off and clean the thread and register collar area and remove burrs might help.|
|Thread: Thread ID|
|Sounds bloody dangerous to me. Press fit alloy will loosen up under repeated shock loading. Do the right thing by lads safety and buy new good quality pegs.|
|Thread: homemade slip roll|
Looks pretty neat. A very hand tool. Here's a direct link to the video:
|Thread: Fly presses - weights and capacity|
One way around the problem of the wobbly top moving ram guide is to make your dies with their own built in guide pins and bushings, or a pair of top and bottom plates with guide pins and bushings that you can then bolt your various bending and punching dies into. If you do a google image search for "die bolster" you will see the principle illustrated better than I can describe it.
|Thread: A tale of two suppliers|
Everything I order takes at least three weeks to get here to rural Oz, whether it's coming from Sydney, the UK or US.
Consider yourself lucky.
Not that long ago, such ordering required reading the supplier's details in ME magazine back pages, writing them a query letter, waiting to get a reply or maybe even a catalogue in the mail, writing another letter placing your order, taking letter to post office and lining up to buy a postal money order to put in with the order, then waiting for the supplier to post the desired item back to you, hopefully without having to wait for it to be "back ordered".
Ebay has spoiled us all.
|Thread: Model Engineer or Model Workshop|
You could always buy a couple of single copies of ME and MEW and have a look at them for yourself and see which suits your needs best before committing to a full subscription.
|Thread: Lathe or Mill?|
Definitely a lathe. I've never had a mill at home and rarely wished that I did. Even many professional workshops will have a lathe in a corner somewhere but no milling machine. You can do some milling in the lathe if needed. But very difficult to do lathing in the mill with any great ease or success. And no screwcutting, which I consider to be indispensable.
|Thread: Steel for machining|
Carving that "L" out of a solid lump is madness. Waste of material, time and machine/cutter wear. Much easier to fabricate it from two pieces of 5" x 2" flat bar, or whatever the size is. The end piece could be either bolted and doweled in position, or even welded on before machining.
The original would have been cast iron because it's more rigid than steel. But steel would do the job in most cases.
You should be able to mill the dovetails to a suitable finish for this purpose. It is not a moving surface under load, like say the ram on a shaper or even the table on a mill. One trick to milling dovetails nice and smooth is to do your finish cuts using only one surface of the cutter at a time. This involves machining to almost final size, then drop the mill table a few thou so the cutter cuts the angled face of the dovetail only for one pass. Then raise the table so the cutter then clears the angled face and cuts only on the flat end face of the cutter and take another pass to machine that face. Yes you end up with a couple of thou in the very corner of the dovetail that is not machined but the mating dovetail should have the matching corner relieved for clearance here so it does not matter.
|Thread: What Compressor for Car Lift Air Powered Locks|
These days the option seems to be to use the sealed compressor unit out of an old fridge, hooked up to an old gas bottle etc for a receiver. But I hear you on the post-60 thing. You can spend what time is left mucking about saving a few pence by making something out of almost nothing, or you can spend your time actually doing what you like to do, eg fixing old cars / albatrosses.
Edited By Hopper on 04/10/2018 07:24:31
Those cheap 12 volt tire inflators are kind of unreliable and short lived in many cases. I wouldn't mess with one for such an application. Small 240 volt compressors are so cheap these days that's the way I would go. If you have need for a car lift, you must be doing enough work to justify a compressor for other use as well, eg cleaning parts, air impact wrenches, pumping tires etc.
|Thread: Rocol RTD shelf life|
Just noticed on the bottle of sparkling sping water I was drinking today: "Suitable for vegans." Well, duh. You've got a big problem if your sparkling water is of animal origin, I would guess.
|Thread: How much do Colchester spares cost ?|
Seems on par with car and motorbike parts prices. Yes, 9 quid nuts and all. You pay for the inventorying and storage. And of course the fact that they have what you want and nobody else does...
Wait until you buy headstock bearings for certain models. Nine dollar nuts will be a pleasant memory.
|Thread: GEC Motor Bearings for Lathe Motor|
PS, have a look around on this Permawick (thanks Michael G) website at their cartridge type bearings. It may that the whole "blister" domed housing you are looking at in the inside end cover is part of the cartridge. So you would heat up the end cover and let the whole cartridge drop out of the hole. See photo of cartridges here **LINK**
The cartridge contains the bearing, the oiled felt and the seals at each end, all in a drop-in, drop-out unit. Commonly used on el cheapo air conditioning condenser fan motors etc. Low cost but they run for years.
Depending on how readily available a replacement cartridge is, the ball bearing conversion might be looking better all the time.
Edited By Hopper on 01/10/2018 09:15:12
I had assumed the whole thing was a kind of cartridge encased in an outer pressed metal shell turned over at the ends. But hard to tell from the pics.
You should be able to heat the end cap up to a bit over 100C or so without damaging the tufnol or wicking. But really, you don't want to be re-using old worn out tufnol seals or worn out felt wicking so maybe not worry too much about them? A bit of heat and you might be able to ease that end cap (if it is an end cap and not a cartridge) out with a standard seal puller.
You might take a measurement and see if you could replace the whole lot with a standard sized sintered bronze oilite type bushing and two standard neoprene lip seals.
|Thread: Milling/drilling spindle|
Have you considered the modern approach of buying a readymade milling spindle, with collets and motor with speed controller all in a package for under 50 quid? eg this one here **LINK**
I don't think I could buy the material to make one myself for that. Not even for double that probably. Crazy world we live in.
|Thread: GEC Motor Bearings for Lathe Motor|
The usual way of getting bearings out of motor end caps is to heat the end caps with a heat gun (or good hair dryer) or gently with a propane torch. Once hot enough to make spit sizzle and dance when it hits the metal next to the bearing, the bearings should loosen up enough to be tapped out with suitable punch or even by slamming the cover down on a suitable block of wood. It's best to install the new bearings with similar heating of the end caps. The less force you use on those fragile cast end caps the better.
If you can get new plain bearings like the originals they will probably run a bit smoother and quieter than ball bearings but probably not all that noticeably.
|Thread: Rocol RTD shelf life|
^^^ We have a winner.
Manufacturers of foodstuffs here in Oz are required by law to put on a "use by" date after which the product may have deteriorated to a point where it is unpalatable or even possibly approaching hazardous. But now many of them are also putting on, voluntarily, a "best by" date that is much sooner than the use by date. It's a purely arbitrary date designed to get consumers to throw out food before they really need to, and buy more.
A lot of the cheap Loctite etc on Fleabay is stuff that is close to or past its use by date, so shops do not want to stock it. So far all the ones I have bought work just fine. As do bottles of Loctite I've had in various toolboxes for decades.
Edited By Hopper on 30/09/2018 12:43:34
"Cash on collection" should get rid of Nicole or Curtis or whatever his name is.
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