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Member postings for Hopper

Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: GOOD NEWS ! Midlands MEX
27/05/2021 10:44:48
Posted by martin perman on 26/05/2021 22:13:09:

When youve had your two jabs your protected but you can still transmit it to others as a carrier, because of my part time job, even though I've had both my jabs, I'm still required to test myself twice a week for Covid so I dont infect others,

Martin P

I believe the jury is still out on that one.

"The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention in an April 2 science brief said that “a growing body of evidence” suggests fully vaccinated people are less likely to have asymptomatic COVID-19 and are unlikely to transmit the disease. “However, further investigation is ongoing,” the brief read. "

Thread: Incorrect thread pitch
27/05/2021 10:40:01
Posted by John Tumble on 27/05/2021 09:20:42:
Posted by Hopper on 27/05/2021 09:11:42:

Just out of curiosity, how are you measuring the pitch of a single pass with that sort of accuracy, to the nearest micron?

I cut 70 turns on a bit of stock and measured carefully.

As a check, 1.928 x 55/54 / (54/55) = 2.000068, so it seems that I wasn't far off (the idler has 55 and 54 teeth).

Aha. Very cunning.

Glad you got it sorted. With that ambiguous drawing on the lathe front, I'll wager you were not the first to fall into that trap.

Thread: The worst 'upcycling' tragedy ever?
27/05/2021 10:36:48

Much more congenial in the living room than a crusty old drill press, for sure.

Thread: Joint Failure
27/05/2021 10:35:43

Kind of makes a mockery of this forum's policy of not allowing links to foreign sellers of goods on the theory that only UK sellers are safe to purchase from. Obviously that is not the case. And when a dangerous item is identified, there is no redress.

Thread: Incorrect thread pitch
27/05/2021 09:11:42
Posted by John Tumble on 26/05/2021 21:01:21:...

The thread that is cut is a bit off. I tried it on a long piece of stock and measured it to be 1.928mm pitch.

When I try a second pass, using the same number on the thread dial, it usually cuts in the wrong place. Not surprising, if the pitch is off.

Just out of curiosity, how are you measuring the pitch of a single pass with that sort of accuracy, to the nearest micron?

Thread: Audi engine shed and other bits.
27/05/2021 03:57:42

LOL. Looks like fun. Well done.

Thread: Can one buy pliers with parallel jaws that lock like mol
27/05/2021 03:55:16
Posted by Anthony Knights on 26/05/2021 16:32:43:

Personally, I think this guy is a wind-up merchant who's extracting the urine.and

And I thought he was a genius inventor on the brink of a world-changing patent from one of his other threads. sad

Thread: Machining castings in the 4-jaw - knocking?
27/05/2021 03:50:32
Posted by William Ayerst on 26/05/2021 22:09:04:

Clamps, bar stock to make t-bars and handfuls of 5/16" BSW bolts, washers, taps and dies sorted - thank you!

You're welcome.

More fun than a new Meccano set now.

Thread: Can one buy pliers with parallel jaws that lock like mol
26/05/2021 11:40:00

What you need is one of these. A King Solomon's Miner's Wrench/Hammer. You can hammer the bejillikers out of any rusty nut with the hammer part before undoing it with the toothed jaws that never let go. Can be used as a pipe wrench too. Failing all else, you can hook a hex drive socket up into the ratchet on the handle and use that too. As the wedged toothed jaw section is self tightening it locks on to the job under pressure of rotation. The harder you yank it, the tighter it grips. And made by Proferred for the mining industry so you CANT break it. Four foot of pipe on the handle will not faze it.

Either that or cut the rusty nut off with the oxy torch. proferred-adjustable-mining-wrench-with-hammer-09.jpgAngle grinders work well too.

Thread: Lathe run out
26/05/2021 09:20:00

Although, Schlesinger is probably way too much information to be of much use to a beginner. But perhaps nice to know the background and just how far you can disappear down the rabbit hole if so inclined.

The other "bible" if you are interested in such things is the classic book "Machine Tool Reconditioning" by Edward Connelly. It is more of a hands-on "how to" book for shop-floor machine tool fitters. But not available for free download and getting expensive to buy in hard copy these days. I bought mine in the US in the 1980s for what seems a laughable pittance today.

As I pointed out before, the Myford ML7 User's Manual PDF is available for free and has all the home hobbyist needs to know about setting up a new lathe in good condition to turn parallel. It's a very basic process if you stick to it.

26/05/2021 00:49:06
Posted by Robin on 25/05/2021 23:45:58:
Posted by Hopper on 25/05/2021 22:56:54:

That long thin bar is so flexible it is telling you nothing reliable. Stick with the standard tests as described.

I'm not so sure...

I am. (Based on 50 years of aligning machinery ranging from sewing machines to power station turbines. )

Plus, if the headstock spindle is a tad out of alignment with the as-yet unaligned bed, at the end of that four foot bar it's going to be waaaaay out. Which puts your tailstock alignment out by the same amount if you set it to the wiggler point.

Do what the professionals do, set your tailstock alignment as close to the chuck as possible. Preferably after the bed has been aligned.

And please be very careful spinning that unsupported bar under power. It can bend and whip around with catastrophic results if spun at more than absolute snails pace.

25/05/2021 22:56:54

That long thin bar is so flexible it is telling you nothing reliable. Stick with the standard tests as described.

Thread: Herd Immunity : What’s in a Name ?
25/05/2021 10:55:11

There's a fancy techical word for those flockers too: murmuration.

Now, that's pedantry!

Thread: Todays Car Boot Bargain!
25/05/2021 10:50:50

Nice to see somebody's pride and joy going to a good home.

Thread: A Welding Problem - Steel Type?
25/05/2021 10:48:13

Try welding on the same settings but using some other steel, preferably a bit of something you have welded before with success. Soon tell if its the steel or the welder/operator that is the cause.

Thread: Herd Immunity : What’s in a Name ?
25/05/2021 10:38:28

Interesting history for sure. But I don't think the writer's conclusion follows from his argument. More of a massive assumption really, that changing the terminology at this stage to something more technically correct would be helpful. Seems like it would just add to the already existing confusion at this stage. Pedants all-too-often fail to grasp that the rest of the world does not see things with the same certainty that they do. (I should know. I'm one of them.)

Thread: Joint Failure
25/05/2021 10:19:52


Thread: The worst 'upcycling' tragedy ever?
25/05/2021 10:16:55
Posted by V8Eng on 25/05/2021 10:02:09:

I am amazed at the amount some of this up cycled stuff sells for.

I am a qualified tightwad though.

Edited By V8Eng on 25/05/2021 10:05:34

Edited By V8Eng on 25/05/2021 10:06:13

Yeah I guess to people who have never set foot in a factory or machine shop, this stuff looks exotic. To me it looks like a bunch of old machinery stuck together an not particularly aesthetically pleasing at all. The drill press would look nice reconditioned and painted and in someone's workshop. But I would never in a million years want to look at it in my living room.

Now if it were a Manx Norton engine that might be different...

Thread: Strange effect when turning
25/05/2021 10:12:04

PS, here is my 0.02c worth from the above mentioned thread:

Adjusting the headstock is an absolute last resort and very rarely needed. First try this:

There are two taper turning causes, with two tests and two solutions:

1. Bed Alignment. Stick a piece of 1" diameter bar in the chuck with about 4 to 6" sticking out. NO tailstock centre in place for this test. Take a fine finishing cut along the length of it and measure the job for taper. It should be within a thou or less (0.025mm). If it's not, the adjustment is made by shimming ONE of the mounting feet where the lathe attaches to the bench, at the tailstock end. This "twists" the bed to get it aligned to your headstock spindle axis.

2. Tailstock Alignment. Stick a short piece of bar in the chuck and turn a 60 degree point on it as close to the chuck as possible. Then put a known good centre in the tailstock and slide it up so the two points almost meet. Pinch a thin steel ruler between the two points, with the quill extended about the amount you normally use it at. The steel ruler should stand up vertical and also should lay square to the main lathe axis when viewed from above. If it does not, adjustment is done by adjustment bolts or screws in the tailstock base that move it from side to side. If the tailstock centre is lower than the headstock centre, you will have to put shim between the base and main body of the tailstock to bring it up to headstock spindle level. Further fine adustment is made by turning a piece of 1" diameter bar 6 to 12" long between centres and measuring the resulting taper after a fine cut. Adjust tailstock offset until less than a thou of taper.


The best and simplest written/pictorial description of how how set up your lathe's bed alignment and tailstock alignment I have seen is in the front of the Myford ML7 Owners Manual. PDF copies are available free all over the net. It applies to all lathes, not just Myfords. You should read it carefully before adjusting anything. It gives two ways of doing the bed alignment, using either an expensive precision level, or by the simple turning test outlined in 1. above, which is all I ever use in the home workshop. Then they describe the tailstock alignment by turning test as in 2. above.

This is all assuming that your lathe's bed is not worn out beyond reprieve.

Edited By Hopper on 25/05/2021 10:13:17

25/05/2021 10:08:32

See this recent thread on setting up your lathe to turn parallel: **LINK**

It contains all the information you need to set your lathe up to turn parallel, first without the tailstock centre and then with it. In your case, with no centre, it is quite likely that all you need is some shimming under one of the mounting feet on the bottom of the lathe bed.

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