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Member postings for Hopper

Here is a list of all the postings Hopper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Needle roller shaft
12/07/2020 13:02:54

Depends on the application. Power. RPM. Load. Temperature. And how long you want it to last. Without hardening it wont last long under any serious loading. Usually the shaft is hardened and ground.

You might do better with Oilite bushes on a plain shaft.

Edited By Hopper on 12/07/2020 13:04:08

Thread: Classic Cars - Driving London to Edinburgh in Top Gear
12/07/2020 09:00:44

I think the BSA Gold Star had manual spark advance up to its demise in 1964. Not much chance of running one of those through traffic in top gear though!

Thread: Myford chuck not gripping
12/07/2020 08:20:43

You can actually substitute 3 pieces of flat bar maybe 1 inch by 1/8 . Cut the hacksaw slot in each after drilling the 1/4" hole to give a bit of spring to allow for slight dimensional variation between jaws. Bit more fiddly to get all 3 in place but ok if chuck is laid flat on the bench. Much easier to make than the full plate though.

12/07/2020 02:42:18
Posted by Ro on 11/07/2020 15:26:30:...

...I made up a quick top hat and trued the jaws with a carbide boring bar and the top hat held in the back of the jaws (then reversed the top hat to the front and did the same for the very rear of them).

The jaws now grip fully along the length and don’t slip at all!

I was slightly worried about the work on the scroll affecting the runout, but after testing at multiple diameters I seem to be getting a maximum of about 3 thou.

 

Possibly because when you held the top hat ring in the rear of the jaws and tightened the jaws inwards, the front tips of the jaws were pushed inwards, the opposite of the way they are pushed when in use holding a piece of round bar etc.

That is why the clover leaf plate I posted above works better. It pushes the front tips of the jaws outwards while they are being machined, replicating the position they are in during normal operation.

If there is a bit of slack between the jaws and the slots in the chuck body they run in, it can make quite a difference.

I got the chuck on my 1937 lathe to run within one thou using this method.

Edited By Hopper on 12/07/2020 02:43:19

Thread: Selling on behalf of executors in 1975
12/07/2020 01:58:49

Oops that last word should be day but too late to correct it. Small phone, fat fingers.

The other interesting point is that the modest-by-today's-standards pile of workshop kit was valuable enough to rate a half page ad, which eould not have been cheap.

12/07/2020 01:14:19

In the 1970s I knew a lot of home workshop kind of guys mostly motorbike restorers and a few model engineers. None had a mill or power hacksaw. A lathe and a welder or oxy set was about the limit.

In the 1950s my old man had to wait until he sailed as a marine engineer from Oz to the UK to buy a 1937 Drummond and lug it home.

The above advertised pile would have been exceptional in the fsy.

Thread: Classic Cars - Driving London to Edinburgh in Top Gear
11/07/2020 11:20:45

They didnt have today's traffic to contend with. And vehicles had low compression, flat torque curves and heavy flywheels combined with lower overall gearing than today's vehicles. And the Lagonda had a V12 engine that would have helped! But was geared for 100mph flat out whereas today's highperformers would be geared for double that.

Thread: I'm thinking of selling up, whats it worth?
11/07/2020 01:53:09

Haha. Ducati nuts are even nuttier than Myford nuts!

Edited By Hopper on 11/07/2020 01:54:40

Thread: Disposing of a Lathe and (many) related items
11/07/2020 01:49:14

There is a Super 7 for sale in this site's classifieds right now so that might be an idea of a possible asking price. The suggested eBay sold items advanced search might give a better actual selling price guide.

Most of the accessories you list are probably best sold with the lathe as part of the basic kit. Chucks and steadies usually came with the lathe at time of original purchase, albeit perhaps at extra cost. The "extra" gears are most likely the change gears that are an essential part of the basic lathe for cutting threads and should be sold with the lathe to save the buyer a headache tracking down replacements.

You might sell the dividing attachment and plates etc as a separate deal. They are worth quite a bit on their own and are a "deluxe" extra rather than part of the basic lathe kit. On the other hand, if included with the lathe would sweeten the deal and possibly expedite the sale of the whole lot in one go.

Thread: Myford chuck not gripping
11/07/2020 01:31:12
Posted by The Novice Engineer on 10/07/2020 23:25:28:

A tip given to me by an old machinist to true up the jaws is as follows

Select a grinding stone that has a diameter so it can pass through the rear of the chuck.

Turn up a ring that will fit over the jaws so that when they are opened against the ring ,the grinding stone will pass through.

Now gently stone the jaws till true.

Not done it myself, but he did sort out an old chuck for me.

An alternative might be to source some replacement jaws Pratt Burnerd use to do spares .

You have that bass-ackwards. If you open the jaws against a ring around the outer edge of the jaws, as some YouTube videos wrongly show, you will push the outer edges of the jaws inwards and thus grind MORE off the already worn ends of the jaws.

Issue 267 of MEW has an article on the right way to do it, on a Myford ML7. Secret is to make a clover leaf, aka spider, or even three flat spacers to push the ends of the jaws OUTWARDS when the chuck jaws are tigthened against them.

Here's my version of it:Not my original idea. Copied from an ancient Duplex article in ME years ago.

picture 4. chuck regrinding. overview of plate fitted to chuck..jpg

Thread: Short drill or Spot / Centre drill first
10/07/2020 13:56:22

I've never heard of a double point drill. So they'd all be single point to me. 

Either way, for a 3mm drill, you will get best result by centre drilling first if accurate location is the goal. Even a split point can wander easily on a thin flexible drill bit. Remember, it is only a perfectly ground point the first time you use it to drill a hole. After that, it's a worn point.

 

Edited By Hopper on 10/07/2020 13:59:36

Thread: Coronavirus
10/07/2020 12:47:05

Cerebellar ataxia, if it is that, is a form of brain damage. There are at least a dozen or more different causes (including COVID19) so treatment could depend on what the cause is. No good asking for advice on forums as each case may be different.. Keep up with the neurologists etc. It can often take months - even six months -- to arrive at a firm diagnosis with neurological problems, in my limited experience. Hang in there. There is good treatment for a lot of this stuff these days but it does take time to get there.

Thread: Boring problem
10/07/2020 08:27:46
Posted by Sam Stones on 10/07/2020 04:03:42:

Hi Andrew (Williams 1)

The trouble with certain Myford saddles (I had a 1946 ML7 and worked on a Super7 in the late 50's), and the way the saddle can rotate (very) slightly) also relates to the narrow guide principle (NGP) and the wear on the saddle's shorter contact length with the back edge of the front shear.

There was a modification in Model Engineer by J A Radford of NZ (which I never got around to executing), that switched to using the rear face of the back shear.

Although I haven’t bothered to read further, starting with ‘Chipswitheverything’

**LINK** that hints at where and why the existing design is as it is.

For a better understanding of the NGP see here ...

**LINK**

I'm sure there's other stuff on the subject, including Jack Radford's ME article, but needs digging for.

Hope that helps.

Sam

Edited By Sam Stones on 10/07/2020 04:05:09

See MEW Issue 287 for a modernised, much simplified method of doing Radford's Wide Guide modification, without needing a milling machine to do the job.

A strip of gauge plate is attached to the rear guide surface of the saddle and the narrow guide is left unmachined and no longer contacting the bed. Same set up as post-1972 factory procedure. Radford, and others', method of machining away the original narrow guide is unnecessarily complicated.

 

But it;s probably not going to make much difference to cutting on the back cut. That is pretty much normal on any lathe due to the necessary oil clearances and spring in the boring bar. Standard procedure is to retract the tool on the return travel.

Edited By Hopper on 10/07/2020 08:34:23

Thread: Pulley removal help needed please!
10/07/2020 00:08:53

Good job well done. Its the whack on the end of the puller bolt with a hammer that often makes the difference.

Thread: Downwards-Counting Cross-slide Dial?
09/07/2020 10:59:34
Posted by Nicholas Farr on 09/07/2020 09:02:23:
Posted by Hopper on 03/07/2020 04:16:40:

So you take the first cut, measure the job and set the dial so that 0 is the finish cut position. Then you keep taking cuts working toward that 0 mark. No need to remember where you are aiming at (or mark the dial with chalk or felt pen as i do) and no need for measuring along the way until about the final cut or two. Makes the whole process simpler and quicker. No repeated mental arithmetic along the way.

I think its a great idea. When i get around to making resettabe dials for my Myford i think i will incorporate it in rhe cross slide dial. Topslide i don't see the need so much.

Hi Hopper, although this is true, 0 comes round every turn of the dial, which ever the direction it turns and subtraction is just as easy as addition, which is what I do, so you can work towards 0 either way, once you know how much needs to be removed. Of course, if your dials are fixed, you have to keep track by marking with chalk or felt pen.

Regards Nick.

But its easier -- for me -- to add 37 to 0 than to subtract it from 100.

Thread: I particularly enjoy the recent Myford restoration articles
06/07/2020 01:42:15
Posted by Simon Collier on 05/07/2020 23:58:47:

I used to resent all the stuff on Myfords in the magazines. Then a very nice Ml 7 fell into my lap for peanuts, so now I like the articles.

laughlaughlaugh Lol. Ain't that the way of it.

I got mine in a similar way -- then found out why it was at close to scrap value price. I got exactly what i paid for!

05/07/2020 23:46:28

Thanks. Glad you found the articles useful.

Have fun with your Myford.

Pete B.

Thread: Small drill bits, <<1mm
05/07/2020 23:34:01

Ive been very pleased with small drill bits from Tracy Tools.

Thread: 63-tooth change wheel for Portass PD5
05/07/2020 08:11:12

If you are wanting to use the 63T gear to cut metric threads on your imperial lathe, you can do it without using a special 63 gear. Martin Cleeve's inexpensive book "Screwcutting in the lathe" has charts in it to cut all metric threads by using the original standard set of change gears in a compound set up. IE 20 to 65 in steps of 5. Accuracy is within 1 in 8,000, ie more precise than the orginal leadscrew will ever be. I've used his method on my ancient Drummond of similar vintage to your Portass and it works well. Cleeve's charts suit any lathe with an 8tpi lead screw, which is most old Brit iron including yours I believe.

Edited By Hopper on 05/07/2020 08:14:36

Thread: Britannia Lathe
05/07/2020 07:58:13

Looks like that is the finest feed you are going to get on that lathe with only one stud for a gear pair between the reverse tumbler and the leadscrew. Compare it with a Myford that has two adjustable studs on a forked banjo that allows for two pairs of reduction gears between between the reverse tumbler and leadscrew. Probably all you could is look for a smaller gear to go on the tumbler reverse output.

But poor finish could also be a result of poor toolbit, worn bearings, worn bed, job sticking out too far from fhe chuck, worn chuck, or even a duff bit of material. If you are using Chinese brazed carbide toolbits, they will need sharpening before use.

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