Here is a list of all the postings jaCK Hobson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
I started using Klipper and Fluidd on a Pi with my Ender 3 v2 (motivated by the wrong reasons).
Why should you consider this? 1) speed of printing, 2) ease of tinkering.
To use Klipper, you flash a lightweight firmware for your printer and the printer just does basic, fundamental control. Higher level commands are evaluated on the Pi. It takes some of the processing complexity off the printer controller - which could be significant if you have an 8bit board like an Ender 3 orignial.
Also, higher level config is done on the Pi so chances are you can now tinker away changing hotends, offsets, levelling sensors without having to flash the firmware again.
Fluidd is an alternative to Octopi. You can use Octopi still but I think Fluidd has some advantages for supporting changes to Klipper configuration files. I switched from Octopi to Fluidd because I has comms issues between the Pi and the printer... but it turned out to be noise due to different power supplies. Fluidd can emulate Octopi for integration with things like Cura so you can 'save to Octopi' and the slice goes direct to the Pi ready to print.
An example of interesting speed options is 'input shaping'. You can attach an accelerometer to your printer, measure the resonance response, and then apply active damping to account for that. It allow much faster acceleration without ringing. And acceleration (rather than max print speed) is usually the thing that most impacts print time.
If you just want to print and use the printer as a 'tool' then forget all this and stick with a Prusa, If you want to tinker, then get the cheapest Ender 3 and go this route!
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 15/04/2021 17:46:54
|Thread: Call me cynical / Call me thick ... but|
Isn't it just saying how a second is defined? So the new definition of using the frequency of some alternative atom is found to be more consistent under different conditions.
Like a foot used to be the length of someone's foot but as they change a bit from person to person, a more universal definition has been chosen.
An inch might have been the width of a thumb but got redefined to make it be easier to map onto metric.
Temp scale has had a few changes, some quite recent.
|Thread: Replacing a Canon printer with a Brother Laser?|
i got a second hand brother 5240L so I could do the 'Shaun Hughes laser printer hack' to disable the heat element so you can make laser printed transfers for layouts - good for engraving but maybe it would work on a larger scale? Unfortunately I've found having a laser printer so useful I haven't got around to hakking.
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 05/04/2021 16:29:50
It was a bit dry and crispy. Maybe better with chilli and seasoning.
Just before this lockdown, my daughter braved Oxford St and bought a new jumper... with this included for free!
|Thread: CNC - What's the Problem?|
I feel (maybe just hope) that a cheap CNC metal cutting market will appear. With 3D printing, people are learning CAD so CAM should be an easy step for them. I'm amazed by what you can get in 3D printing for the money but I guess it is rigidity that really costs.
I got a real urge for a 5 axis Pocket NC https://www.solidprint3d.co.uk/pocket-nc-store/ but I need to win the lottery tonight before I can get that toy.
I'm sure the future is going to include a combination of additive and subtractive machining on one device.
Yer - Dykem good but not that good! The aerosol would not be good for me - I use it inside on small things. I'm sure lots of us have had the misfortune of a Dykem spill or leak.... I imagine aerosol would be that experience with evey use. The amount in a small bottle lasts me longer than the Dykem stays blue.
Weird. I got some blue in small bottle, and could have ordered red, off Amazon Aug 2020 but can't get it now!
|Thread: Buying advice sought re Milling Machines: e.g. Proxxon: FF230 vs. BFW40/E vs. MF70|
Always, always listen to JasonB. I can only ever remember totally agreeing with his advice. ie.get a sherline.
However, a real alternative might be a Boley jig borer (a mini BCA). I got one under my desk which I can reasonably easily lift onto the desk when needed. Max through size of an 8mm collet is about 4.5mm so it isn't intended to 'drill' above that but not so bad with a stub drill at 5mm. Pics in my album.
Probably not helpful advice as you won't be able to find one if you 'look' but they do turn up.
And btw I have a Proxxon TBM220 drill which I find quite handy. 4mm is really a limit, if already too much. There is some feeling of quality in Proxxon that seems to make them a bit better to use than I expect.
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 01/04/2021 08:31:00
|Thread: Digital Callipers - again|
I have a pair from Woolworths £15 maybe 15 years of careless use. Not so long back I took them apart, cleaned and polished bits, knocked off 'sharp edges', and used some watch oil on them. They became so much nicer to use. They do run the battery flat after a couple of months so I buy a bunch of cheap spares. They don't like any moisture at all. I tend to reset the origin every use. I love em.
I splashed out on a pair of iGaging. They are a slight step up. No need to fettle so these feel like the polished and oiled Woolworths right out the box. Had them a year and have not replaced battery. I don't think I have reset the origin either! You can get some that show fractional inches but these are not those: https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/products/igaging-origincal-ip54-digital-caliper-absolute-origin-0-6.
I'm left-handed and don't have a pair of left-handers. I get stupidly annoyed having to pay extra for left handed things! Not as annoyed as I get looking unsuccessfully for left-handed files! If M-DRO did a flash discount on left-handers then I would buy some
By the way - a small amount of fettling can transform other super-cheap stuff. I just got the cheapest linear slide rail off Amazon. I took it apart to cleaned it (see youtube) and go over it with a diamond hone, and the difference is amazing! It doesn't fix the 1mm vertical bend over 400mm length but that should be sorted by suitable packing. And you can tell how they manage to make em so cheap.
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 28/02/2021 08:53:13
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 28/02/2021 09:04:28
|Thread: Looking to learn CAD|
For my 3D printer I learnt Fusion 360 by following these Youtube videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvrHuaHhqHI&list=PLrZ2zKOtC_-AHebQU73jLvjvihmWQYVmC
They are good and very concise. No fluff. That means you have to concentrate and pause. Not everything will go smoothly but you will learn a lot.
It takes a few days to get through them.
I really love Fusion 360 considering it is free.
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 19/02/2021 18:19:15
|Thread: Problems using Clickspring's technique for Blueing steel|
surface finish and cleanliness is important. Heat gun is good idea if you have one
Hot salts are easiest if you can get hold of the salt.
|Thread: Roller skate bearings.|
The big boy bearing manufacturers like FAG and SKF make top quality and probably can't be bettered. I suspect anything above their prices is to cover extra marketing.
But the £200 are super accurate ceramic balls - not easy to make I suspect, and so you are getting something for your money. You might not need that something. I wonder who actually makes them, and for what purpose?
I just got set of 8 ABEC-9 from amazon because it was cheaper than buying 2 of the cheapest from BearingBoys (after delivery costs, 'casue I got Prime)
And there is a big difference in quality, longevity between cheapest and good SKF/FAG. I use skateboard wheels on my belt grinder and cheap lasts tens of hours; expensive... I haven't worn them out yet (probably mostly due to the quality of the seals).
I bet the 8mm version of these will make the £200 ones look cheap.
Or even 8 of these is going to set you back
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 14/02/2021 16:59:23
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 14/02/2021 17:00:32
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 14/02/2021 17:07:11
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 14/02/2021 17:20:28
|Thread: Hey you! What lathe? Why?|
Only one Pultra cross slide is never enough. I think this one is quite rare. And a pic of genuinely useful 3D printed things - pullies and motor stand!
You won't know till you try. She'll love it. What could go wrong? Go on...
I just printed this for my Pultra. Can you tell what it is yet?
Edited By jaCK Hobson on 08/02/2021 23:26:33
Once you have one, you can't get enough of them. Another Pultra. A Pultra '10' which is a smaller 8mm. That makes sense!?
Ah yes! I've been looking for a mill for years
Pimped this jig borer meanwhile. But I _need_ a mill.
Ah yes! I pimped my turns:
|Thread: Any idea on what this item is?|
I'd say it is a rotary positioning table but not intended as a manufacturing fixture, more likely a base for a scientific instrument like a theodolite. Could be put to use as a manufacturing fixture though!
|Thread: Hey you! What lathe? Why?|
Next lathe, I got the chance of a Super7, local, £500 so took the plunge. Pulled apart and put back together with some new bits, some scraping but I'm not sure about the headstock and the slideways can't be smooth and stiff - not like another Super7 I use. A good Super 7 with gearbox and power cross feed, QCTP, stand, coolant, the works, is sublime to use. Way over-priced but if you want one, you gotta have one.
This does get used. All the previous lathes are now stored underneath it. It doesn't look like this anymore - it has a haze of rust all over, and some bad spots. But always ready to go.
I probably have used all the controls and found them useful. Reverse, Backgear, Power feed. Screwcutting... can't be bothered. Faceplate - never.
Wish I had more QCT things and more chucks for the tailstock. Tool changing consumes a lot of time if you are not organised!
And I got the Myford dividing head. A bother to set up and take off and set up and take off .....
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