Here is a list of all the postings Daggers has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New member from Brussels|
Welcome to the world of model engineering, it’s always great to hear from lone modellers.
Where to start is always a difficult but nothing is impossible, many great models have been built by first time modellers.
One tip is to use metal of a known quality, this help you machine to a consistent and repeatable standard.
Do your research, GLR, Polly Models, Blackgates, Reeves all have online catalogs and ship to europe.
Youtube is a great resource “learn metal turning andrew whale” could be interesting for you, start at the oldest post and work forward. He starts with a small lathe and builds his knowledge from there.
Ask questions on the forum, no question is too basic, all questions deserve a reply.
|Thread: Moving machines|
As a model engineer and a vintage car restorer i have both the lift as shown and a clarke folding engine hoist. Both have there place.
As a model engineer the lift works for me, when my machines were delivered they were placed straight on the lift from the truck and held with ratchet straps. I do have a wide door so the machines can go in sideways, the lift is always set at its lowest whilst it is moving, raising only to slide machine on to bench. I have drilled the sides of the top of the lifting truck and fitted eye bolts to secure loads. It does a great job of moving my 5” loco from bench to bench and bench to car. It also is used as an extra build table and can be rolled outside for steam tests. If you load overhangs the table pad the load overhang on the underside with secured wood blocks so if it does tilt it can only tilt a couple of inches whilst moving.
To be safe you need to carefully balance the load, strap it down, and have a smooth floor surface. And lastly stay clear of the load whilst moving
|Thread: 2.5mm thick mystery 'Formica' type sheet. Is it still available?|
A few years back my company needed some blank fibre glass panels 4mm thick 600x300, the order was placed with the firms PCB supplier. He offered blank panels from 1.5 to 5mm thick, no copper, in a couple of different substrate types. I seem to recall they were dark green took a router quite well and drilled fine.
|Thread: Steam operated drain cocks|
sorry but I don’t recognise that image.
when i was looking for information on this subject I found this website, might be worth a look.
|Thread: Crampton Loco Drawings|
The friend who gave me the Crampton build series has just emailed me a advert from 1987 showing B.Arridge selling a set of 14 drawings, cylinder castings, wheels etc. He asks for a sae for detail list from his home at Cottingham North Humberside.
Didn’t realise that he sold castings.
Just finished going through the mags, unfortunately there is not enough drawing info to complete the loco. The series suddenly finishes whilst building the boiler fittings. There is no drawings for the tender, plate work and many small parts needed for completion.
Looks like I too will have to look for a different project, but I will still keep looking for the drawings even if its just to borrow them to get the missing info.
|Thread: Boiler lagging|
I need some thin lagging in the end i purchased Kiln Glass Paper which is 1mm thick. I purchased a pack 50 pieces 80mm square for £5 just butted some sheets using double sided tape then brass cladding. Worked really well.
|Thread: RR Merlin Scale Models|
I was lucky to see Barrys engine a couple of times and watched it run sometime in the 1980s.
At an much earlier exhibition i viewed his embryo merlin, just a large chunk of alloy with pockets milled out. What a craftsman.
He was always a very private man but still active in 2008 as he exhibited his Eagle 22 in the ME exhibition and came away with a cup.
A picture of him is in issue 4338.
The last time I heard of him was in about 2018 when a someone mentioned the they had spoken to him, but I really can’t confirm that.
I also seem to remember that at one exhibition I attended there were two merlin engines which sat side by side, one built by Barry and another by a different builder.
My father was a Merlin mechanic during the war and when i showed him Barrys engine on the front cover of the ME he was totally in awe of the mans skill.
|Thread: Help wanted, How can I use a stepper motor as a table feed.|
One more try.
Apologies, cant for the life of me post embedded video, old age.
Looking at something similar, found this youtube, might be of interest to you.
Edited By Daggers on 18/04/2021 17:16:50
|Thread: Crampton Loco Drawings|
After reading Mike Sharmans Crampton Loco book I have decided to build the 5” Crampton as sold by Blackgates as my next loco.
It looks like Brian Arridge sold them direct from his home.
Does any out there know if the drawings still exist or available somewhere?
If anyone has built one were there any problems.
Any help, advice or info would be grateful received.
|Thread: MEW Stepper Power Cross Feed stops|
Thats what I’ve lookin for, stopping the travel the change direction on the handset and press inch until switch is overriden.
Although i can build a project i could have looked at that circuit for a year and still not seen the soultion.
The MEW stepper cross feed has worked great over the years but this addition will just give me piece of mind during a long slow cut.
I have looked into Mikes stop system and that is just what i would like to add.
And if my power cross feed was an conventional electric motor it would be fairly straight forward.
Having a controller with stepper motor attached I am not competent with electronics to decide the best way to break into the circuit to achieve a safe solution, i.e a gentle circuit stop with damaging any electronics.
Thanks for all the replys,
Can i first say that the Ardunio DRO upgrade is a totally independent DIY upgrade/project and has no association with the power cross feed. I have just stripped the mill to add this DRO so now would be a good time to do any more upgrades.
I would just like to limit add switches at the ends of the travel for safety. I do quite a lot of long passes and get distracted easily.
My problem is where in the MEW circuit can i add the switches without harming the controler etc. Do I just cut power to the controller or is there a better circuit option.
I constructed the stepper motor electronic project as shown in MEW issues 118-119 and redesigned the attachment to fit the Warco type WM14/16 milling machine.
This conversion has work great for the last 5 years, i am at the moment doing a strip down clean,adjust and adding an Ardunio wifi dro upgrade to the mill.
One modification i would like is to incorporate end stop switches. I am not an electronics expert so i am not sure how to achive this, if it is possible.
Is there someone who could advise
|Thread: Gypsy 1/4” scale crankshaft material|
I agree, lots of extra swarf, but material came from a contact at cost who only had 21/4” round stock.
Would like to have purchased square/rectangular stock but i found it difficult to find supplier who would supply/ship small quanity at a reasonable price.
My first time working on an ic engine, had the plans/castings for years but other projects have got in the way.
Ordered round 21/4” diameter EN8M which i was told is the free machinng type of EN8. Not seen it yet but i presume it is bright bar.
En8 on order.
Am away from home at the moment so dont have the original drawings with me, did not realise steel spec was shown.
I have redrawn the crank on my laptop, which I have with me, as i found a drawing problem and needed to investigate before commiting to machining.
Does en8 need any stress reliving after rough machining and prior to finishing.
Am new to this group, I have a question regarding crankshaft material.
Looking at the Gypsy crank and trying to decide on the best material and balance the machinability against the strength.
Can you experienced guys out give me your best guess as I have no experience in a crank of this size/use.
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