Here is a list of all the postings Lynne has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cross slide adjustment|
John, Thanks for the reply, and for the pointers on tool use. I have had a look at the Rotogrip site,
& I think that set TTS5-3 is probably the set you were referring to. Seems quite sensibly priced.
I was interested to see the reference to A.P.T. in recent posts. I chanced to find them as a result of a search for 'Insert stockists' I was quite pleased to find that they made inserts available in packs of two, however, they had no TCMT available which were suitable for general steel turning, they were available but on a minimum order of 10. I emailed them and having identified the inserts I was interested in, they made them available in packs of 2. I was impressed by their approach to customer service and feel that it deserves to be more widely known.
John .I like your idea of one tool to machine R&L. Glanze have a tool, Ref. STECN1010 which pictorially looks identical to the tool you show a picture of, they also show similar tools for R&LH which to me look no different. So I have to assume that there are subtle differences to the inserts.
So the question is:- If I were to replace the tip with a general turning tip (TCMT110204) do I finish up with a tool suitable for R&LH turning. Lynne
|Thread: shaded pole motor|
John, I will wire the motor minus capacitor, and cut out in series.
Thanks again to all who have responded to my enquiry. Lynne
Muzzer. You are correct, the free black lead did go to the tag. Your suggestion that the two were from a thermal cutout buried down the side of the windings, encouraged me to try and extract it, and it did relatively easily, together with the protective shroud. I have put a picture in my album, for as yet I have not sussed attaching pictures to my posts. However I did get a reading of 8 ohms across the two leads, and 18 ohms through the two stator windings, so what does that tell you?
Reasons for overheating. The motor and cyl. type fan, were seriously gunged up with fat, despite renewing filters from time to time. It would be a shame to bin it, as the bracketry and bearings are robust, and incorporate rubber mtgs.
Les. Thanks for the picture upgrade. Wish I were able to do that. No info on wiring arrangement. Capacitor value, no idea. The innards had extruded themselves from the casing, which was a sticky mess, and attempts to clean, resulted in removal of any data that existed. Picture of the other side in my album Sorry.
John & Colin. Thanks for all your input. I guess that if the device is indeed a thermal cut out, it should be retained in the circuitry , that is if the motor ever runs again .
John, I have created an album,and there should be a photo of the motor
Colin, thanks for your informative response.The motor does indeed have 2 stator winding, and 2 shading rings, one of which has 2 leads from it which I now am aware was probably connected to a capacitor. There was once a speed controller which gave variable speed (not stepped) and a capacitor which had seen better days, just a sticky mess, , so I could'nt determine any values the rest of the controller had burnt out .The extractor hood assy is German, and a label on the casing states 'motor 230v, 50hz,230w.
I have readings through the 2 stator windings, the rotor looks ok , but how would I check?. Capacitor type and values? and wiring it in would be speculative. I would be quite pleased to have the motor run at one speed.
The motor has all the characteristics of a ______ from what I have seen of pictures, so what should I call it. I could come up with a few non electrical terms. Regards Lynne
KWIL, Thanks for the lead.
Thanks to all who have responded to my post. Having looked again one lead is is attached to a stator coil, however
the other lead is not , I had thought that there was a link from where the other wire of the coil was soldered, to the tag where the other lead shaded ring was attached , and there is'nt. deteriorating eyesight, age related that is my excuse. There was once a speed control system consisting of potentiometer triac resistor and capacitor, which overheated in a serious fashion, burnt out infact. I am not into electronics sufficiently to put together a replacement.. The resistance through the stator windings is 8 ohms, which seems very low.
It is going to be an interesting exercise to find a replacement which is dimensionally similar. The extractor assembly is German , as are the rest of the kitchen units, and fitted over 25 years ago
I have an extractor fan motor (not working) where one shaded ring is wired in parallel with the stator windings. An internet search of wiring diagrams does'nt show this, but there are so many I may have missed it. Is this wiring arrangement unusual. I would be interested to know a bit more about it.
|Thread: How concentrated should I make a citric acid pickle ?|
Have a look at CupAlloys web site , best brazing practice, they tell you there.
|Thread: Naerok 350 mill/drill|
Duncan, I have a RDM350, and have shimmed the rack to eliminate column radial movement, and upgraded the depth stop arrangement. I have searched unsuccessfully for a manual. The bearings are becoming a little noisy and a copy of the manual, would I am sure be useful to help me dismantle the quill etc. Any chance of a copy? and any other info which would be useful. Thanks Lynne J.
|Thread: Myford S7 lathe|
I have come across a lathe which is badged super 7, power cross feed and induction hardened bed, Serial number is KR156510, which implies that originally it was an ML7-R. Can someone throw some light on this one for me. Thanks, regards Lynne
|Thread: What Electronic Projects are you working On|
Neil, Thanks for your response. I am venturing into the unknown on this one. The ordering info chart does not
mean a great deal to me, and thoughts like 'how will I know that the pins will line up withe the holes in the
board' etc etc are cause for concern. That is why I was hoping to find a like for like replacement. I wish I was a
little more clued up on electronics. I have the relay off the board, so I will have a go at determining which pin does
what, and as you say I do know which is the out pin. Regards, Lynne
Attempting to get my de-humidifier operational again. Fan runs, compressor does not.
I have wired it seperately, and it runs, so I have come to the conclusion that the relay is faulty.
The relay is ' LISHENG' LRD-S-124DMT There are a lot of references to it on google, but I cannot
find a stockists. I am hoping that as many of you are involved with electronics,
you may be able to direct me to a source. Regards, Lynne
|Thread: Perfectly ground Twist Drills every time.|
Hi, MEW 176 & 177, Drill Sharpening Jig, by John Shepherd, well worth a read.
2nd attempt. 1st showsin 'My posts', but not in thread .
Hi , MEW 176 &177, drill sharpening jig, by John Shepherd; well worth a read.
thanks for the assist re password change. regards Lynne
Reset password tells me that the password sent can be changed into something more memorable. I cannot find that option, so the question is :-
where and how. thanks, Lynne
|Thread: M E W 213 Metric Threads|
Am I right in thinking that there has been postings on this subject on this
site, but not by the author of the article in M E W. . If there have been
I would like to read through them again. Regards Lynne
Thanks to everyone who has responded to my enquiry. The Raglan has a mechanical variable speed control.
I did appreciate that I could simply leave the inverter on a 50Hz setting, but why pay for a facilities that one is never going to use.
My understanding is that the digital inverter produces 3phase which is very close to the real thing, as opposed to the static(capacitor reliant) inverter, and I want the digital version. Regards Lynne
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