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Member postings for Lynne

Here is a list of all the postings Lynne has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford lathe
30/01/2017 22:41:48

Hello Michael, I have sent you PM. Lynne

Thread: End Mills
01/01/2017 17:01:37

Thanks to Jason B, and Ketan, for the specific info. on mills that are suitable to use on brass. The other posts whilst of interest, do not address the question I asked. Regards Lynne.

31/12/2016 04:19:24

I am thinking of getteng some end mills which I intend to only use on brass . Need some advice on what to go for. Regards Lynne.

Thread: Myford ML7 for turning Aluminium
05/11/2016 11:58:50

Curtis, I have sent you a private message . Lynne

Thread: long case clock
03/11/2016 18:24:15

Thanks for the responses.

Michael & Bob. 8 day longcase, english movement, well, the name on the brass face is Geo. Booth, Manchester. Hasn't ticked for 40 years that I know of. Weights, one cast iron, could be original, the other, pretty poor lead casting. Also missing the gathering pallet, which will be a challenge. The hands need attention, minute hand broken, but I have the pieces. There is more.

Catalogue. Meadows & Passmore. They describe them as Rack & minute wheel studs. Cousins describe them as Rack & lifting piece posts/studs. The 22mm length is insufficient, I need 25mm, so I will have to do a repair. Minute post is sound, Maj. thread dia. is 3.43mm, hole dia. 3mm. tread pitch using BA guage would appear to be 3BA.

So, what to do? drill 3.4 and tap 3BA, or try to match the original form. Regards Lynne

02/11/2016 23:35:24

Hi, wheel posts are threaded 3BA, so the spares catalogue tells me

The tapping hole for 3ba is 29 or 3.4mm, and these will not go through the hole in the plate I am looking at. I have tried to determine the thread from the range of taps I have , but no success. Any suggestions as to what may have been used.

Thanks, Lynne

Thread: Draftsight 2016 now out
06/07/2016 00:36:02

draftsight 2016 installed. drawing parameters set up as per notes. scheme drawn. print model produces a drawing of approx. half scale. drawing sheet and the option to define a scale of 1:1 delivers a drawing of approx 2:1

The scheme can be drawn on A4. So where am I going wrong. DS notes suggest that print is a simple process.

regards Lynne

Thread: Dave Lammas tool post
20/06/2016 23:17:54

Clive, Thanks for the information. I have asked the ebay supplier to clarify whether it is Bms, or Black

I think that the material is ok for a toolblock. Regards Lynne.

19/06/2016 12:54:36

Thanks to everyone who has responded with respect to suitable material. The material I found on ebay, which satisfies the 90mm criteria, is described as BMS to 080A15/EN3A.

EN3A is described as having good machinability,weldability,lowtensile, and can be case hardened, which to me would be an ok material. I have not so far in my internet searches, found an other material which meets the 90mm criteria.

Puzzling in some ways as 080A15 is cross referenced to EN3B, but in my view is still an ok material. RegardsLynne

19/06/2016 00:25:52

Jason, Thanks for the information reference enlarging the type A to give the dimensions required for the type B.

Michael W, The casting will cost me £33,90 90mm square bar will cost £22 and 90mm dia. bar £13,55

With that kind of saving I am quite happy to make swarf, even to the extent of filling a small bag.

I have found all the other comment of interest. Regards Lynne.

18/06/2016 12:27:22

JasonB. Quite some time ago,(2012 actually) you made the comment 'cannot see the point in using a casting, easier and cheaper to machine from a block of steel or CI. Did you ever make one, and if so do you have a copy of the detail drg. for the 'B' version. If yes, any chance of a copy?. Regards Lynne.

Thread: Mounting a Vertex HHV 100 Rotary Table
06/05/2016 22:41:36

I have been following this thread with interest, as I am thinkig of buying a Rotary Table.Vertex were in the frame,but in the light of comment, I am looking at alternatives. Arc prices are a bit eye watering by comparison, and they are supplied with mounting plate for Chinese chucks, and its Hobsons choice. They (Arc) did put it to me that it was only a small element of the total cost, which to me is saying it would'nt be any cheaper if they were to supply minus the plate. Warco have quite a good range , but they give no indication as to the origin of the tables, and I would be interested to hear from forum members who may have more knowledge of Warco products than I. Finally, is it a major machining op to marry up mounting plate to Rotary table and chuck, to achieve repeatable concentricity.. Lynne.

Thread: Torx Screws for Inserts
29/04/2016 10:57:38 Good range, good service and quick. Lynne

Thread: Carbide inserts
08/04/2016 03:26:26

Mike, Large range of inserts etc and good service. Lynne.

Thread: Cross slide adjustment
25/03/2016 00:01:18

John, Thanks for the reply, and for the pointers on tool use. I have had a look at the Rotogrip site,

& I think that set TTS5-3 is probably the set you were referring to. Seems quite sensibly priced.


23/03/2016 14:14:06

I was interested to see the reference to A.P.T. in recent posts. I chanced to find them as a result of a search for 'Insert stockists' I was quite pleased to find that they made inserts available in packs of two, however, they had no TCMT available which were suitable for general steel turning, they were available but on a minimum order of 10. I emailed them and having identified the inserts I was interested in, they made them available in packs of 2. I was impressed by their approach to customer service and feel that it deserves to be more widely known.

John .I like your idea of one tool to machine R&L. Glanze have a tool, Ref. STECN1010 which pictorially looks identical to the tool you show a picture of, they also show similar tools for R&LH which to me look no different. So I have to assume that there are subtle differences to the inserts.

So the question is:- If I were to replace the tip with a general turning tip (TCMT110204) do I finish up with a tool suitable for R&LH turning. Lynne

Thread: shaded pole motor
08/02/2016 22:53:00

John, I will wire the motor minus capacitor, and cut out in series.

Thanks again to all who have responded to my enquiry. Lynne

03/02/2016 17:09:25

Muzzer. You are correct, the free black lead did go to the tag. Your suggestion that the two were from a thermal cutout buried down the side of the windings, encouraged me to try and extract it, and it did relatively easily, together with the protective shroud. I have put a picture in my album, for as yet I have not sussed attaching pictures to my posts. However I did get a reading of 8 ohms across the two leads, and 18 ohms through the two stator windings, so what does that tell you?

Reasons for overheating. The motor and cyl. type fan, were seriously gunged up with fat, despite renewing filters from time to time. It would be a shame to bin it, as the bracketry and bearings are robust, and incorporate rubber mtgs.

Les. Thanks for the picture upgrade. Wish I were able to do that. No info on wiring arrangement. Capacitor value, no idea. The innards had extruded themselves from the casing, which was a sticky mess, and attempts to clean, resulted in removal of any data that existed. Picture of the other side in my album Sorry.

John & Colin. Thanks for all your input. I guess that if the device is indeed a thermal cut out, it should be retained in the circuitry , that is if the motor ever runs again .

01/02/2016 23:22:31

John, I have created an album,and there should be a photo of the motor

31/01/2016 11:19:05

Colin, thanks for your informative response.The motor does indeed have 2 stator winding, and 2 shading rings, one of which has 2 leads from it which I now am aware was probably connected to a capacitor. There was once a speed controller which gave variable speed (not stepped) and a capacitor which had seen better days, just a sticky mess, , so I could'nt determine any values the rest of the controller had burnt out .The extractor hood assy is German, and a label on the casing states 'motor 230v, 50hz,230w.

I have readings through the 2 stator windings, the rotor looks ok , but how would I check?. Capacitor type and values? and wiring it in would be speculative. I would be quite pleased to have the motor run at one speed.

The motor has all the characteristics of a ______ from what I have seen of pictures, so what should I call it. I could come up with a few non electrical terms. Regards Lynne

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