Here is a list of all the postings Mark Simpson 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Macc Models Updates ?|
Joe and Suzi were working flat out the last few weeks, I got some stuff from them 10 days ago and I guess that was about a 2 week lead time; they g, just had lots more orders than usual and impossible for them to get any more help... Give them a ring on tuesday if you've heard nothing.
I live pretty close, and usually collect stuff directly, clearly not possible atm; I am sure they are honest as the day is long.
|Thread: Increasing Print Area|
PETG is challenging, but yes I can print it.
It's not a flexible filament though, that's TPU. With thin non bowden printer all it needs is a guide between the feed wheels and the heat brake. Having this little guide also makes changing filament of any kind easy.
I have the same Factory 3D printer as you, easy to make up a guide from another bit of M6 Ptfe lined tube; thanks I will do that.
I too have the same printer as you, and won a few extra mm by putting a bigger piece of glass on the plate; you rarely print on the corners anyway it's mostly the skirt editing the machine bed size in Cura > Machine settings got the datum back onto the glass.
I wonder if you had any success printing PETG? I've tried many combinations of settings and get rubbish results, I've now got a bin full of scrap and lost my original cura settings for PLA... I can print the CV19 headbands in PLA but dismal failure in the preferred PETG... I tried two different rolls so don't think it's the material.
|Thread: 3D Printed Face Mask|
A little help from the great collective please.
I printed the first few with no issues, but then switched from PLA to PETG as requested; I ran out of PLA anyway. It's tougher and apparently much better for the purpose.
I am struggling to get a reliable set of settings and it's very frustrating. Typical issues are that prints will have a few holes in the top and sides, but a perfect base.
Anyone got any cura slicing settings and temperature advice? Bed - 70 and filament temp - 255 is required to get a strong print, or it delaminates.
|Thread: It would happen now!|
Daft though it may sound, British Gas can be really cheap in the summer; no idea if they are doing this atm.
My daughters was upstairs in a cupboard, no external walls, flue through the roof, no external drain or vent.
British Gas fitted new Boiler, new rad stats to every radiator + 1 new rad, scaffolding to access roof and added a condensate drain under the bedroom floor into the soil stack outside. All for 2400quid, quoted Monday, came Thursday and finished Friday.... (and 12 months interest free credit!!)
Worth a phone call at least.
|Thread: Chester lathe as my new lathe anyone|
I bought a crusader deluxe 3 or 4 years ago, and it's my only lathe (at the moment ) I've made quite a lot of 6" traction engine bits on it including Crank shaft and turned some big castings, it was bought to replace a tired colchester student which needed a bed grind to do anything longer than a few inches. I looked at a lot of M300's etc. but all in my price range were pretty knackered, if I had 10k that's what I would buy.
The lathe is pretty well made, and you get a lot for the money, I added an ER40 collet chuck and DRO to the standard stuff. As someone said the chucks (esp 4 jaw) are big but that suits me fine.
I've just finished by Little samson crankshaft and only got a taper of the than .0005" over about 18" (and it's eccentric to machine) . Good enough for me
I've also fettled some bits, replaced allen screws with presto ones here and there and generally improved it. But I have used it since day2... it took some effort to get all of the packing grease/oil of it.
The accessories were pretty crap tbh, The fixed steady was off centre by 20mm and 18mm low. The bed stop was so rough internally the micrometer part could not rotate, but they weren't too hard to fix properly. If I had checked them when I got them I woudl have just sent them back.
Get everything you might want with it, check it fits.... my efforts to get soft jaws even 6 months later were fruitless, but they offered 10% off a new chuck with some soft jaws...
I like the lathe, the whole "customer experience"... not so much
|Thread: 3 in 1 Lathe/Mill for $139? Early chistmas present perhaps?|
I'm not in the market for one, but it seems like an awesome deal...
Surely this can't be real can it?
|Thread: More evidence that the world has gone mad!|
Mt first experience of this was when we had to submit our CAD software for virus and spyware checking to a specialist company employed by the UK nuclear sector, late 80's I think, it was all submitted on 1/2" magnetic tape I remember sending it off with a courier.
We then spent some weeks renaming hundreds of fortran routines in our cable analysis software, because the company didn't like the names of the internal routines.... They could find nothing wrong with the software, but did not like the names.... Utter madness, but they paid to have it changed; so we could sell them the software... Strange World
|Thread: Small grinding wheels for toolpost grinders|
I've had good service from midland abrasives (recommended on here by someone) when trying to get some smaller wheels for my tool/cutter grinder...
You can get cylindrical "mounted points" up to about 40mm diameter
They also had knowledgable human beings on the phone when I rang them
|Thread: Lathe annoying 50Hz hum|
My Chinese Chester crusader deluxe was delivered with an annoying hum/buzz.... Several hours of head scratching, forum searching and general faffing about...
One of the relays in the elec box, part of the safety cutouts, was loose in it's seat... so it buzzed. properly re-seated and not buzzed since.
|Thread: Anyone know about buying freehold to a house in the north|
Buying a freehold from the church Commissioners can be legally "interesting"... I've spent a lot of time with our village Scouts and Guides over the years and we wanted to buy the freehold for a strip of land through which the only road access to our HQ ran. An unoffcial arrangement in 1946 between the vicar led to the 1st HQ being built on his chicken run (wartime meant he was unable to get more hens); no problems for the next 60 years.
Fast forward to the 2000's and with a new HQ built on land we managed to buy behind the original site, we started to try and buy the leasehold for the little access strip.
After more than 10 years we got offered a fair price, but the church set the terms and wanted to use their standard contract. Then it got really interesting, we got a document from their solicitors with dozens of pages of adenda. We were extremely fortunate to have a parent who was a really good land lawyer to strip away 98% of it.
We are not now responsible for the maintenance of a window in the diocesan cathedral or a small %age of the salary of the verger in in the local deanery church and others. It seems that when land was given to the local church in previous centuries, usually to build a school or church, then also there was some commitment to the church hierarchy for the allowing it to happen.
There will probably be some retentions on the land, they get a %age if you sell it at vast profit, you can't turn your house into a "house of ill repute" or a video store??? (always wondered about the video store bit)
Sorry about the length of this diatribe, just make sure your lawyer reads the small print, if it's a standard freehold transfer that should be fine; but look out for all the stuff at the end.
|Thread: my knowledge of steel needs improving|
I find this a most useful website... Does not cover everything but covers a lot!
|Thread: Is your spindle bore large enough?|
I've got a Crusader Deluxe with a 38mm bore, building a 6" traction engine and find the extra bore very useful; the extra length between centres is also really important (to me)
If you compare the gearing in the head with my previous Colchester Student it's not as good (generally not as wide gear teeth) but I've turned some big stuff on it with no problems and it makes less noise that the student (It is 40 years younger)
|Thread: A visit to Manchester Sci and Eng Museum|
If you are near Manchester then there are some great, less advertised museums..... Some of my favorites:
For textile machinery and some steam/water power Styal Mill is really good... A mile from Manchester airport **LINK** There is enough there for the non technical too
All of these are heavy on exhibits, my kind of museum!
|Thread: 3inch grinding wheel|
I've found midland abrasives have a massive range, including imperial sizes... Try page 5 of the 0-100 sized wheels (they show 1/2" as 12.7mm )
Just a satisfied occasional customer
|Thread: Division Master (Stepper Motor Dividing)|
Quick progress update...
I found that the dividing plates from a 6" table had a big enough bore (22mm), so made a mounting for them on my 14" table, made a new handle for it and it seems to work fine. Stepper motor route would perhaps have been better in the long run but I already had the plates for the 6" and decided to go for it (and not spend 100+quid)
It seems a very solid setup, and have been able to cut the 4DP, .539" deep teeth in one go
Thanks again for the advice, all useful
Andrew: Thank you, it's really good to know that someone with more experience has cut these large gears in the same way as I intend to... Horizontal RT, lock X and Y, and wind the table up and down... (good exercise!)
On the division front I think I will have to do something more than "wind the handle to a spreadsheet"
I do use my rotary table instead of a bigger lathe, so some way to drive the rotary table continuously would have additional benefits....
I've priced the stepper motor route at about £100 ( I have a suitable power supply already) and will have a go that way, building a whole division mechanism for the RT to cut 3 gears seems like too much effort
I do still like Jason's Idea to produce a large division plate and bolt it to the top of the gears then release the worm on the RT.... Easy, Cheap and I can check the accuracy of the division plate before cutting any teeth by measuring between the holes... I love a practical solution!
Thanks to All:
Andrew: it's a KRV3000 (Bridgeport on steroids) with a homemade horizontal attachment. Max clearance between Arbour and table about 11". The 3 bigger gears for my 6" Little Samson are 14.25", 17.00" and 19.5" so a switch to horizontal and use the rotary table and cur in Z axis seems the only choice. Spreadsheet doable but some risk (to my mind) at 4.737 deg / tooth
Jason: I had not thought of that... If I knock up a plate say 12" diameter with my DRO I should be able to get the holes accurate to maybe .001"(maybe .002" if I am careful. Those errors would (I guess) tend to magnify up to the outer diameter where the teeth are (so perhaps .003" at 19.5" diameter)... It's a traction engine so not high speed, no idea if .003" possible deviation on tooth width is acceptable
I've a 15" rotary table 90:1 to which I need to add a means of dividing for 55,66, and 76 (for spur gear cutting)
I've also a 6" elliott dividing head with one plate, which I've successfully used to cut a couple of smaller spur gears.
Any suggestions/tips really welcome
|Thread: Is it a drone?|
or a swimming penguin "drone" perhaps?
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.