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Member postings for Steamer1915

Here is a list of all the postings Steamer1915 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Miniature V12
06/11/2013 17:49:13

Nice job. Only runs on air though.


Thread: Universal Grinding machine construction series?
21/10/2013 22:28:44

A clear and concise appraisal of the situation Dusty. Well done.


Thread: Bridgeport mill dual dial help needed please
18/10/2013 22:02:28

Hello Colin, I sent you a PM earlier today. By the way, the video was an excellent idea. As you quite rightly point out, a picture is worth...

Regards, Steve.

Edited By Steamer1915 on 18/10/2013 22:10:10

Thread: Myford ML7? Help in identifying please
18/10/2013 21:41:23

Looking at the apron, I would guess that it is pre K111727 (April 1973)

Best regards,


Thread: Bridgeport mill dual dial help needed please
18/10/2013 21:33:49

Hello Colin, I have had a look at the dual dial on my Bridgeport and it is the same as the model described by Russell. So I don't think I can help you with any pictures. I have had another look at the video and agree with Jonathan that the disc should be pressed or glued to the dial. I also agree with him with regard to setting both dials to zero. There is simply no point in doing this - you either work in Imperial or Metric. The zeros will move away from each other as soon as the table is lifted or lowered and you will only need to concentrate on one. Therefore I'm thinking that if you fastened the dial to the disc with glue (or knurl it up further and press fit) then the two dials will be able to be driven at the same time. To set the zero point, one would then release the blacked knurled ring and turn the dials until the desired zero (be it Imperial or metric) is in line with the fiducial line and lock up the blacked knurled ring. I apologise if I have missed something obvious here, but this is how I see it.

Best regards,


Thread: Carriage (Myford Power Cross Feed stop)
13/09/2013 21:36:07

Hello Harry,

The peg pushes the power cross feed button in to prevent damage when facing under power. I don't really know what to say as regards the cross slide. I try not to wind out more than about 6 inches from when the slide is fully in.

There is a procedure for re-engaging the cross-slide nut on the PXF models and I'm sure one of the members will point you to a link.


Thread: Universal Grinding machine construction series?
11/09/2013 16:12:14

I would welcome such a series - especially in ME.


Thread: Surface grinder stone help
10/09/2013 13:32:17

I would echo Gray's point about not grinding Aluminium on a pedestal or off-hand grinder. I would also agree that milling is a viable alternative.

Thanks to Gray's confirmation that it can be done on a surface grinder, I no longer feel a lone voice in the wilderness..

Reference has been made about wheels looking as if they have been used for grinding on the side. It should be appreciated that wheels can be used for side grinding as long as the wheel is dished and the cutting is done on the outer edge of the wheel. Wheels can be purchased that have the relief already dressed in, or the wheel can be relieved with a hard dressing stick such as Norbide etc.

Now that I've tossed that little hand grenade into the discussion, I shall put my tin helmet on.


09/09/2013 22:26:07

You can grind aluminium on a surface grinder quite easily. The trick is to lightly smear the job with grease. This will stop the aluminium clogging the wheel and there will be a mini snow storm of aluminium swarf. Cuts of 3 or 4 thou are quite safe. Flooding the job with coolant doesn't work. An aluminium oxide wheel of 46 grit is quite adequate. There will be no sparks! Been there, done it.


Edited By Steamer1915 on 09/09/2013 22:30:55

Thread: Deckel FP1 jam
21/08/2013 21:49:44


He has obviously disappeared up his own..............


Thread: Jones And Shipman Surface Grinder
19/08/2013 18:38:25

Which model is this? I have a 540 and would be able to offer a limited amount of advice for this machine.


Thread: Hand Wheel
16/08/2013 18:56:57

Here is a picture of a Graham Meek designed Handwheel Dial fitted to a PCF Super 7.

This is a Metric version.Metric Handwheel Dial fitted to PCF Super 7

16/08/2013 11:39:25


PM sent.


16/08/2013 11:09:15

Harry, PM sent.


Thread: Parting Tool Feedback
07/08/2013 13:20:32

Plus one for the Q-cut. Never a problem on either the Myford or Hardinge.


Thread: coupling rods
07/08/2013 13:17:42

ahh yes!


07/08/2013 11:05:34

Which model?


Thread: threading stop
21/07/2013 10:47:14

I have never had a problem with either my own or the one that I used in my former place of employment. I can only suggest following Jim's advice and try to lubricate all points of the linkage etc. Sorry, but I have never had this part of the machine to pieces.


21/07/2013 10:15:17

That looks suspiciously like a Hardinge machine to me. I would agree with Neil, as I have never had an issue with the stop moving on mine and I have screwcut up to a shoulder at 1000 rpm, leaving about 5 thou to spare. I would suggest that you investigate why the rod is so stiff to move. Does the handle feel stiff when you knock it across to either cut the thread or on its return journey? I would have to disagree with Ady1 - it is up to the job - something else is amiss. Fix the problem not the symptom.



Edited By Steamer1915 on 21/07/2013 10:15:54

01/07/2013 18:42:45

Hello Richard

This was my point exactly. I was taught the "incorrect way" in the mid 70's at an engineering training centre where all the local companies sent their first year apprentices. Despite breaking out the centre of a 1/4" dia end mill, I carried on in this manner until there was an exchange of letters in the Model Engineer magazine in the 90's (I think) and only then did the penny drop. I have discussed this point with many people and the general concensus is that most of us were taught incorrectly. At the risk of incurring John's wrath, I would still say that if the cutter was inserted correctly i.e. hard up against the centre, then it shouldn't be able to move "a few thou" when it is used for a heavy cut. All that should happen when the cutter rotates under cutting torque, is that the collet will be pushed down into the taper within the nose piece and grip the cutter more tightly, therefore preventing further rotation. This is surely the ideal situation - the cutter will only be (self) tightened as much as it needs to be. Despite being in the Autolock wilderness for too many years, I now firmly believe the Clarkson people had it right all the time.


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