Here is a list of all the postings Steamer1915 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Banding on turned work|
I had experience of this many years ago on my S7 and I can do no better than repeat Phil P's post verbatim.
|Thread: Recently joined the forum|
Welcome Jeff, See you at Tony's "do" hopefully.
|Thread: Geared Saddle wheel Myford S7|
No worries. All I was trying to point out is that there is a difference between the angular positioning of the countershaft (as you have correctly alluded to) between the Non PCF (your original machine) and the PCF (your present machine) models. That is why I don't mark the back-plate and leave that to the customer. I would imagine that even if your apron has been re-manufactured, the angular positioning of the countershaft would remain the same.
My best regards,
Martin, Glad that all has gone well.
My personal preference is to have the line at the 12 o’clock position.
It was intended to mark this during production of the dial but unfortunately, there is a slight difference in the angular positioning of the back-plate between the power cross feed version and the non power cross feed version. Therefore, a pre-marked line may be in an inconvenient position for the lathe user. Position of lighting can be a big factor.
Yes Martin, you bought it from me at Harrogate in May 2014. You were number 57 according to my records. I have now sold over 130 with a recent flurry on eBay.
I have modified the fitting instruction sheets with some supplementary notes about fitting to the PCF versions and later lathes with the different screw placement.
I hope the dial continues to give you good service.
My best regards,
Edited By Steamer1915 on 07/12/2016 15:24:28
Below is a copy of the drawing of the jig that I recommend when drilling the original shaft. This drawing is included as part of the fitting instructions that I supply with the dial. You pretty much have the same idea. I will also include a paragraph from the same instructions:-
"Whilst the majority of Power cross feed machines will be able to utilise the apron oil level screw to anchor the back-plate to the front of the apron, some of the later machines have the oil level screw positioned to the left of the earlier placement. In such cases, the dial should be fitted as per the non-PCF versions. It should be noted that there may be an issue with the wall thickness of the front of the apron casting and therefore it may be necessary to drill the tapping size for the M4 thread to a depth of only 8mm. This will prevent breaking through into the cavity and subsequent contamination of the oil. In this instance, it will be necessary to slightly shorten the 16mm long M4 cap-screw so that it grips the back-plate before becoming thread-bound at the bottom of the hole."
Hope this helps,
|Thread: myford nose thread|
If I am cutting a full form Whitworth thread, I usually use a inserted tip of that form. The nominal dia is the same as the major. Never had any trouble mating parts.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 - Powered Crossfeed|
From S7 manual:-
Also, George Thomas explains how to solve this problem simply on page 281 of his book "The Model Engineers Workshop Manual".
Edited By Steamer1915 on 04/10/2016 18:54:06
|Thread: extra-fine knurling|
I ended up utilising the slotting head that had lain redundant at the rear of my Bridgeport mill since I acquired it. The general idea is that the slotting head behaves in the normal manner but a rod connects the movement of the ram and indexes a rotary table via a ratchet borrowed from an old steam engine lubricator.
The original ratchet wheel was replaced with a wheel that had only seven teeth and this allowed an amount of overstroke, which in turn allows the cutting tool to clear the work before the indexing for the next cut takes place. The tool is ground to give a 90 degree tooth form and the job takes 8 minutes to complete one revolution. In this time I can prepare the blanks for this op and the finishing op when the “knurling” is complete. There are 504 “teeth” which gives a pitch of just over 0.016”. I hope the photos show the idea of the setup adequately.
Why this text appears in the middle of the photos, I don't know!
|Thread: Model Engine Maker Forum|
Just worked for me.
|Thread: Tailstock Alignment|
There are styli available for some lever "clocks" that are tear drop shaped to compensate for Cosine error. I believe that this may be an involute shape.
Edited By Steamer1915 on 21/09/2016 11:22:52
Edited By Steamer1915 on 21/09/2016 11:24:45
|Thread: Gun Metal/ cast iron / Brass|
I can only agree with you Neil, I was given the "Tich" book as a birthday present in the early '70's after seeing it advertised on the back of the Model engineer magazine. I started the loco at school during Metalwork classes and made a few parts. I didn't make a lot of progress and then life started to get in the way. I fully understand that it may not be the ideal beginners engine to build but I still think that the book gives an excellent introduction into Model Engineering for any beginner. "Read the Tich book and then build a Simplex or Rob Roy" is a common cry. To dismiss it as a "Useless ornament that lives on a shelf" is very unfair and as many examples have proven, totally untrue. I find it very annoying when people feel the need to spout off about what some builders regard as their pride and joy, just because they don't like the model in question. In this particular case the wrong engine was targeted and the thread was derailed. Rant over.
Well said Michael!
Even in 5"? ...or did you miss that bit?
|Thread: Myford Graduated Carriage Handwheel|
Thank you for your kind words, I hope it will give you many years of good service.
The 18 cylinder radial is built to Lee Hodgson's drawings (Ageless engines, USA) I think it would probably be more accurate to say that it is very loosely based on the Pratt & Whitney double wasp. The biggest issue I have had up to now was making the cylinder heads to a shape that I was happy with. I wanted to keep a constant fin width on the top fin and this could only be achieved by making the top of the head a spherical radius. Given that the head & valve towers are machined out of one piece of material, machining around the valve towers, whilst retaining the spherical radius proved to be a challenge.
Eventually, the penny dropped and I was able to achieve the desired effect. Progress has been stalled by dial production but I hope to restart the project soon. There is a photo in my albums for anyone who is interested.
|Thread: What is the brown colouring on the hand reamers ?|
Just looks like the brown colour that is left after heat treatment. Perhaps done in a vacuum.
|Thread: How accurately can you machine?|
Edited By Steamer1915 on 06/06/2016 16:47:16
|Thread: Gauge Glass with Red line|
Hi Dave, You could always try:-
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