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The ends cannot be skimmed up on the side you cannot see there is a bracket for part of the suspension also I don’t have a steady for the lathe. So a non starter.

Its going in the mill

It’s a long way down from the centre of the axle to my cross slide and there is not muck to fix it to. I will make a fixture and do it on the mill.

This is a Russian tether car kit from the 1980s the main chassis is a die casting, the gears are supplied along with the rest of the materials to build the car and a full set of drawings and an instruction book all in Russian . It was aimed at the juniors of the Eastern block.

it been quite a novelty building a tether car with a full set of drawings the materials in the kit have been surprisingly good. It’s about half way finished now.

I am going to try and put the picture the right way up failed

Edited By JasonB on 04/04/2020 07:42:17

Thanks for all the suggestions, I am going to do it in the milling machine just need to work out how I am going to hold it.

On another site it suggested drilling the hole using a D bit which appeals to me. I will let you know how I get on.

Jason I hadn’t thought about using a collet, where did you source the drill from.

They line rifle barrels with a new rifled sleeve they are glued in with araldite.

Bruce. It will have either full length bearings in each side of the diff or one bearing in each end and either side of the diff.

Jason it does not have a diff, a solid axle with a bevel gear. On the side you can’t see there is an opening that will be covered with a plate.

This is the rear axle for a replica tether car that I am building it an American car from the 1940s

I want to drill. 3/8” through the aluminium casting of the axle, I have a Myford 254 lathe a Seig x3 milling machine and a pillar drill. The milling machine is not tall enough to do it.

The hole needs to be straight as it will have a rigid shaft in it support by bronze bearings. Any help gratefully received.

I am pretty sure they are not BA the smallest is No 1 and they get bigger BA starts at 0 and gets smaller.

Does two end mills and a reamer count as panic buying, might have hole up in the workshop.

Got my Pneumonia jab free when I had my lat mot at the GPs.

They come as a blank of various diameters to suit different chucks, ready machined and thread to fit on the lathes spindle. Then you machine it up to fit your chuck.

Speed is my inspiration all my life I have built models that are fast, currently I hold five British records and one world record. I am still building and racing them.

Looks a useful bit of kit. Wouldn't mond measuring some of my liners. Roundness seems to be my problem with used liners the only real test is to make a new piston and run them.

I was on motor ships in the 70s 6 cylinder opposed piston Doxford Diesel engines 130 rpm flat out they didn't half shake the ship when the prop came out the water. No flywheel direct drive to the prop.

When a ship is running in heavy seas the propellor will come out of the sea enough for the engine to over rev if not governed even the motor ships had a govenor not that you see it.

I still have a copy of the drawing PM your email address and I will send you a photo to big to scan or copy at home.

It's great when they run for the time, well done. Now onto the next one.

This what I am making, cutting the profile out on my cnc machine and putting the groove round the outside on my manual mill. Got quite a few to do both sizes.

Edited By JasonB on 22/01/2020 12:56:33

My father was a working clockmaker so the brass was probably for making wheels, too thin for plates. Towards the end of his career he made skeleton orrery clocks in batches of five.

I will order some plate from m machine.

Jason

The plate was around 2.5mm thick which I machined down to 2mm the plate was from when I cleared my fathers workshop so it was for clockmaking.

I would quite happily use plate of the right thickness if I could find it.

Oliver