Here is a list of all the postings david homer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What to do with a sticky (as in toffee) portable radio|
I had a radio the same, rubber going a little sticky, I rubbed some talc over the sticky bits, cured the stickiness and also smelled nice.
|Thread: The great workshop bake-off (paint that is)|
if you look at this link it gives some information about painting with Phoenix Paints and temperature, of course it may not apply to other makes, I have been doing some with both a brush and an airbrush in an unheated garage with no problems. Parts were placed in garage before hand and paint taken out at time of application.
I should add that it does not need baking to cure it and it is recommended that you paint below 10 degrees C
Phoenix Precision Paints do a Higher temp paint in their range of Cherry Paints maybe be a little more expensive, haven't used my tin yet but have used their normal temp black and it gives a good finish. They recommended it for a loco smoke box.
Looking at their website it looks like they sell EF Flux paste 250g and 500g exactly the same price as powder. Their mix of 455 silver solder and flux is in a syringe.
|Thread: Availability of a T33 & T34 Myford Change Gears?|
HPC gears are good source of spur gears, not cheap though. I think Myford gears are 20dp or used to be on earlier lathes.You will have to modify the bore to suit your needs they do 33 and 34 tooth.
|Thread: Danfoss Pressure Switch|
The threads on those Pressure Switches i would expect to be 7/16" SAE which was a standard thread for refrigeration 1/4" copper flare
|Thread: Diamond Drills|
After seeing this post I caught sight of this add on you tube, not sure if these are any use but are made for the application you need, hope the link works
|Thread: Copper tube for boiler|
You could try Noggin end metals, they are listing 4" 10swg approx 3.25mm (i think) but limited stock. Also look at M-Metals both do C106
|Thread: White rock salt|
Hi, I have used the moisture absorption trays/traps and crystals available from Wilkos, Robert Dyas etc and they work very well in my workshop which is electrically heated so no moisture from that. The moisture in a well sealed shop is from your breathe blow lamps and carrying in water on a wet day surprising how much moisture they collect. We also used to put them in a narrowboat we had over the winter but they did not collect much which I think was due to the boat being colder.
|Thread: Aging rubber and plastic|
Had a similar problem with a small DAB radio where a proportion of the case had rubber on it which went very sticky, if I had some french chalk I would have rubbed that on it, all I had was talc, solved the problem and smelt quite nice too that was about 9 months ago and still ok.
|Thread: Larger ball check valve lift|
Some information here may help
Edited By david homer on 03/03/2019 10:10:53
|Thread: Chester Super Lux - Motor Failure|
Hi Colin, I manged to lift mine staight up by standing on an adjacent bench, mine was cast iron where yours looks like ally, guess yours is a later version than mine,it was heavy. As Jon says I think you need get some small wedges in around the flange to get it moving.
Have you tried a new capacitor, I managed to find one on e-bay. Trouble with capacitors on 1ph motors is they dont like too many starts per hour, which if you are like me its off and on allthe time.
if its the centrifugal switch you maybe able to prove that by spinning the spindle and switching it on, try it in one of the slower speeds as that will result in the motor turning faster, just be careful though. If the switch if faulty and you cannot repair ir you find a solid state one to replace it, these are used on 1ph hermetic refrigeration compressors where you cannot have the switch inside the casing.
I have a Chester Super Lux bought in 2005, checked today and when i switch it off you can hear the centrifugal switch operate. The motor on mine just slots into a coupling with a nylon key, no other fixings except 4 cap heads through the motor flange.
|Thread: ASEA Motor Wiring|
To prove the theory that 2 of the wires are from a thermistor, why not put the motor in a warm place or a cold place and see if you get any change in resistance.
I think you will find that the circle on the left with the 'headphones' is a klixon overload operated by heat from the motor or from high current passing through the coil. The connection at 9 o,clock is the live connection which goes through the o/l coil to pin 4, when powered up there will be high current drawn by the run winding trying to start the motor and as this goes through the coil between pins 4 and 3 this then operates the relay contacts and puts a live to the start windings, once the motor has started the current will drop and the contacts open taking the live off the start winding. The line crossing along the bottom will be the neutral. This type of relay is used on hermetic compressors on fridges etc where you cannot have a centrifugal switch, but are also useful if the centrifugal switch on a motor is beyond repair just operates by current rather than centrifugal force. But I could be completely wrong as it is 40+ years since I looked at anything like this.
|Thread: Number plate|
Look for Makralon polycarbonate sheet, it was machine guards are made of, impact resistant and does not crack like acrylic.
|Thread: 1/4 " Thinwalled Stainless Steel Tubing|
You could try BES Ltd they 1/4" x 20g
|Thread: Fridge problems|
It could be a couple of things, the phial on the end of the thermostat capillary tube has become detached as Dave points above, the thermostat is faulty, the type of fridge were the panel at the back can be seen to frost up and defrost and runs down to a drain at the bottom depends on the differential of the stat between cutting the compressor out and it restarting, it will not have a heater for defrosting, it cuts out below freezing point where the stat phial is attached and will start up again at some point above freezing so that any frost will have thawed and the phial has warmed.
It could also be loss of refrigerant, some loss will still allow it to freeze on the panel but not reach the stat phial which is usually at the last section, if you find where the phial is attached and seeif it is freezing at that point. If it is not it will never cut out. If it is short of gas what is left in will be running at a colder temperature than normal causing more frost than usual.
It is usually better to have the fridge full than empty as there is less air changed when the door is opened, and there will be less heat going, in unless your wife is putting a lot of very warm food in.
Listen for the compressor cutting in and out, if it just running continuous it will never defrost, that could be asymptom of being short of gas or a faulty stat.
|Thread: Soft ingots|
Pirelli used to make cables, sold out to Prysmian, solder for cable jointing? how about material for wheel balance weights.
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