Member postings for david homer

HPC gears are good source of spur gears, not cheap though. I think Myford gears are 20dp or used to be on earlier lathes.You will have to modify the bore to suit your needs they do 33 and 34 tooth.

David

The threads on those Pressure Switches i would expect to be 7/16" SAE which was a standard thread for refrigeration 1/4" copper flare

David

After seeing this post I caught sight of this add on you tube, not sure if these are any use but are made for the application you need, hope the link works

.georgeshop.co.uk/products/mintiml™-screw-extractor4-pcs?variant=32927540707363&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr5zLofnM7AIVyt3VCh2w0ggiEAEYASAAEgKIw_D_BwE

David

You could try Noggin end metals, they are listing 4" 10swg approx 3.25mm (i think) but limited stock. Also look at M-Metals both do C106

David

Hi, I have used the moisture absorption trays/traps and crystals available from Wilkos, Robert Dyas etc and they work very well in my workshop which is electrically heated so no moisture from that. The moisture in a well sealed shop is from your breathe blow lamps and carrying in water on a wet day surprising how much moisture they collect. We also used to put them in a narrowboat we had over the winter but they did not collect much which I think was due to the boat being colder.

David

Had a similar problem with a small DAB radio where a proportion of the case had rubber on it which went very sticky, if I had some french chalk I would have rubbed that on it, all I had was talc, solved the problem and smelt quite nice too that was about 9 months ago and still ok.

David

Some information here may help

http://ibls.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Design,_Care_and_Feeding_of_Check_Valves

David

Edited By david homer on 03/03/2019 10:10:53

Hi Colin, I manged to lift mine staight up by standing on an adjacent bench, mine was cast iron where yours looks like ally, guess yours is a later version than mine,it was heavy. As Jon says I think you need get some small wedges in around the flange to get it moving.

Have you tried a new capacitor, I managed to find one on e-bay. Trouble with capacitors on 1ph motors is they dont like too many starts per hour, which if you are like me its off and on allthe time.

if its the centrifugal switch you maybe able to prove that by spinning the spindle and switching it on, try it in one of the slower speeds as that will result in the motor turning faster, just be careful though. If the switch if faulty and you cannot repair ir you find a solid state one to replace it, these are used on 1ph hermetic refrigeration compressors where you cannot have the switch inside the casing.

David

Hi Colin

I have a Chester Super Lux bought in 2005, checked today and when i switch it off you can hear the centrifugal switch operate. The motor on mine just slots into a coupling with a nylon key, no other fixings except 4 cap heads through the motor flange.

To prove the theory that 2 of the wires are from a thermistor, why not put the motor in a warm place or a cold place and see if you get any change in resistance.

David

I think you will find that the circle on the left with the 'headphones' is a klixon overload operated by heat from the motor or from high current passing through the coil. The connection at 9 o,clock is the live connection which goes through the o/l coil to pin 4, when powered up there will be high current drawn by the run winding trying to start the motor and as this goes through the coil between pins 4 and 3 this then operates the relay contacts and puts a live to the start windings, once the motor has started the current will drop and the contacts open taking the live off the start winding. The line crossing along the bottom will be the neutral. This type of relay is used on hermetic compressors on fridges etc where you cannot have a centrifugal switch, but are also useful if the centrifugal switch on a motor is beyond repair just operates by current rather than centrifugal force. But I could be completely wrong as it is 40+ years since I looked at anything like this.

David

Look for Makralon polycarbonate sheet, it was machine guards are made of, impact resistant and does not crack like acrylic.

David

You could try BES Ltd they 1/4" x 20g

It could be a couple of things, the phial on the end of the thermostat capillary tube has become detached as Dave points above, the thermostat is faulty, the type of fridge were the panel at the back can be seen to frost up and defrost and runs down to a drain at the bottom depends on the differential of the stat between cutting the compressor out and it restarting, it will not have a heater for defrosting, it cuts out below freezing point where the stat phial is attached and will start up again at some point above freezing so that any frost will have thawed and the phial has warmed.

It could also be loss of refrigerant, some loss will still allow it to freeze on the panel but not reach the stat phial which is usually at the last section, if you find where the phial is attached and seeif it is freezing at that point. If it is not it will never cut out. If it is short of gas what is left in will be running at a colder temperature than normal causing more frost than usual.

It is usually better to have the fridge full than empty as there is less air changed when the door is opened, and there will be less heat going, in unless your wife is putting a lot of very warm food in.

Listen for the compressor cutting in and out, if it just running continuous it will never defrost, that could be asymptom of being short of gas or a faulty stat.

Pirelli used to make cables, sold out to Prysmian, solder for cable jointing? how about material for wheel balance weights.

Years ago I changed out ball type linear bearings for Hepco Pacific bearings in an industrial application plagued with dust problems, the Hepco are what looks like PTFE and Bronze composition and can be run dry. No doubt they will be more expensivie, info here

http://www.hepcomotion.com/product/linear-motion-components/pacific-plain-linear-bearings-and-pillow-block-bearings/

RS used to stock them.

David

This company makes them,

http://www.beakbane.co.uk/products/telescopic-springs

David

Hi

There are a couple of yahoo groups which cover Raglan lathes and mills, if you have not already seen them.

Might be worth looking and asking there, the link below is to one of them.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/RaglanMachineTools2/info

David

Sorry in an earlier post I put Loctite 603, that should have been 406, sorry for the error. The adhesive is cheap enough but the primer is a bit more expensive, I do have some primer, where abouts are you.

David

If you look at this link, load the product catalogue pdf, then go to page 33 you will see over on the left what type of material, under that is silicone.

David

**LINK**