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Member postings for Richard Rogalewski

Here is a list of all the postings Richard Rogalewski has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Flange Sets
19/01/2020 12:52:59

I can get the flange set illustrated above for £30.90. That's expensive. I think I'll buy a lathe and make my own. (I have lots of other jobs I could use a lathe for).

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 19/01/2020 12:55:43

Thread: Product Descriptions (Up to scratch?)
19/01/2020 12:07:45

All understood. Off to YouTube to see how to do the things needed to turn a bar into this flange set I'm wanting to make. Also, as to a lathe, I'll be looking also at getting a second-hand one at some point in the year..

18/01/2020 21:35:28

I think I'm getting it now. "Swing over bed" is that distance between the headstock spindle centre and lathe bed. It's 180mm for the lathe I quoted a description for. But, the description still fails to state what diameter of work the supplied chuck will hold. Perhaps the sellers feels it perfectly sufficient to simply state the diameter of bar that will go through the spindle, as being the effective maximum diameter of bar the chuck can hold.

Although, having said this, if I attempt to make a flange set, I could make this from a bar say 50mm in length. This might feasibly fit into a chuck without protruding into the spindle. And that is what I have in mind and so feel peeved nothing is said about the capacity of the supplied chuck.

I'm recalling the days of my father who was a watch & clock repairer. He had a watchmakers lathe which had chucks that could hold say a 40mm bar, but no-way would that go through the headstock spindle. All understood by the lathe designer.

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 18/01/2020 21:45:14

18/01/2020 16:12:24

Hi. This year I hope to purchase a lathe. If I do, I'll need a lathe with a chuck that can accept work of at least 45mm in diameter. So, I'm looking at products available. Now, obviously I'm concerned that the lathe can take bar up to at least 45mm in diameter. Here is the specification given for a popular lathe:

Motor – 300W/230V
Distance between centres – 300mm
Swing over bed – 180mm
Spindle Taper – MT3
Spindle Bore – 20mm
Tailstock Taper – MT2
Spindle Speeds (Variable) – 100-2500 rpm
Imperial Thread- 18pcs – 12-104tpi
Dimensions – 820 x 295 x 300mm
weight 45kg

There is a link which is supposed to give "info on this machine" If this worked maybe I would not be making this post.

Anyway, no mention of the size of work the lathe can handle with the supplied chuck.

Also, looking for a possibly larger chuck, I've spotted a 4 jaw chuck on a different site. Apart from the description "4 Jaw Independent Chuck" I'm given the weight as 5Kg. Although I can contact someone by way of messaging.Discovering the capacity of the chuck is not proving to be a matter of reading a specification. Seems odd that. Rich

Thread: Anyone near me willing to help with bits & bobs?
18/01/2020 15:25:13

Not sure if I erred in saying "Will pay for these small jobs".

Thread: Flange Sets
13/01/2020 20:54:29

Trying to source the same set so I can modify one of them (I'll have 2 sets then). Will let readers know how I get on.

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 13/01/2020 20:55:44

13/01/2020 18:13:47

Actually, to take that 30mm raised part (seen on the part on the right hand of the picture) down to 25.4mm, I suppose it's possible to bolt that part onto a 15mm threaded bar, and to put that into the lathe chuck.

13/01/2020 17:30:56

In this case you could not use a reducing bush. I mean, to make the current flange set work, I'd have to reduce that raised part you see on the right hand part in the picture, from 30mm to 25.4mm And put a suitable washer into the other part with the recess.

I may be able to find a flange set for a chop saw.. Not sure.

EDIT: Actually, if that raised part were taken down to a diameter of 25.4mm, then, to put things back as they were, then I could use a washer to bring the diameter back up to 30mm. Maybe that's the best solution. Except I don't have a lathe (that can take 41mm diameter).

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 13/01/2020 17:40:00

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 13/01/2020 17:45:44

Thread: Can anyone recommend a cutting disk for cutting aluminium?
13/01/2020 15:08:05

I mean a saw blade. Rich

EDIT: Also thinking about modifying my machine to take saw blades with 25.4mm bore.

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 13/01/2020 15:10:26

Thread: Flange Sets
13/01/2020 14:28:42

Hi. I may be justified in changing what I believe is the flange set for my machine, so I can fit cutting discs with a 25.4mm bore.

I attach a picture. This set is for discs with a bore of 30mm. The hole that fits on the motor shaft looks to be about 15mm. The flange diameter is about 41mm. One is about 7mm thick, the other about 10mm thick. A seperate regular hex nut affixes these things to the shaft, with saw blade in the middle.

Do you think I might be able to source a new set for saws with 25.4mm bore? Thanks. Rich

flange set.jpg




Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 13/01/2020 14:53:13

Thread: Can anyone recommend a cutting disk for cutting aluminium?
13/01/2020 12:16:28

Hi. I'm just wondering if anyone has looked into buying a cutting disc for aluminium, or tried a few products and is in a position to recommend a particular brand/model?

I'm limited at the moment to a size of 210,/30

I figure that buying a disc by Milwaukee at £66.04 (Ex VAT) is bound to produce good results and last, but it's rsather expensive. I'm thinking about spending £30 tops and less if possible. Thanks. Rich

Thread: Special nuts: Any name to what I may need?
11/01/2020 23:37:15

OK, I just bought 5x M8x40 threaded spacer for £3.50. I'll just use a spacer and an M8 hex screw. Might even try to weld the screw to the spacer. So, that's about it for this thread. Rich

11/01/2020 22:40:38

M8x30 Barrel Nut TORX

Probably OK for length. 5 for £9.99

Actually, in it's simplest incarnation all I need is threaded sleeve rod/spacer, that screws into the stud, and I attach the box section by screwing into that sleeve an M8 screw.  Probably my cheapest option.


Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 11/01/2020 23:01:07

11/01/2020 14:23:39

My best search result:

M8x22 Sleeve nut

According to my drawing, which is a drawing of a machine I have, so measurements are by way of my using a ruler to measure distances, if the sleeve is 22mm long, which I belive it is, the sleeeve nut will screw into the stud 5mm. That ought to be enough, because the box section I'm attaching is only being held in place, it's not taking a load.

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 11/01/2020 14:25:30

11/01/2020 12:59:32

Hi. Sorry, I said "bar" at one point, and meant to say "tube". Or perhaps it's better to say "box section". Also, the stud is M8 not M6. Thanks for the suggestions. I know what I would do if I had a lathe and M8 hexagonal threaded spacer - I'd turn the spacer just leaving the end as the hexagonal head. Now Googling for "Joint Connector Nut M8". Sleeve part of nut needs to be about 25mm long. Don't think I'll find one at 25mm

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 11/01/2020 13:10:34

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 11/01/2020 13:23:14

10/01/2020 20:15:30

Hi. I need to bolt on a 25mm square bar to the side of something. An M6 stud protrudes from a surface and that will go through a hole made in the square tube. But, I have a small problem: The stud is rather short, it does not protude beyond the surface of the tube, so I cannot use a regular nut on the stud.

I need something like a thumb screw, which will recess into the tube and make contact with the stud. The length of the shank of the thumb screw needs to be 25mm or so. I've not yet found a suitable thumb screw. If not a thumb screw I need something very similar, perhaps with an hexagonal head. Do such things exist? Things like thumb screws, but with hexagonal heads? Thanks. Rich

Thread: Side milling varient.
10/01/2020 19:54:02

Hi. Thanks. So, you only need and end mill if you are wanting to plung then proceed to make a slot. And in that case, the end of the tool is not creating the floor, the side of the tool is. Very similar to what happens if you side mill.

08/01/2020 20:26:23

Here is what I was looking at, at the time. My sketch is not either of the two examples highlighted.

I think where it says "correction for side milling" it' is highlighting the difference between slot milling, where about half the circumference engages with the sides as the tool cuts out the slot in the x or y direction, and, on the other hand, milling (or side milling) where something less than half the circumference of the tool is engaged in cutting the side as it cuts something "less" than a slot..

Of course, slot milling, in cases where you plung the tool into the work it requires a slot drill, or maybe end mill.

If you mill the side, does the tool need to have end cutting ability?

If you mill an open slot with a floor, does the tool need and end cutting ability?

Cutting an open slot without a floor would not require a tool with end cutting ability. Which is my example sketch.

Sorry if my questions are very basic.


slot side milling as per uddeholm.jpg



Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 08/01/2020 20:29:26

08/01/2020 14:22:30

So, if the tool in the sketch was oriented horizontally, that would not be side milling. Side milling needs a side cutter, as shown above, shaped like a wheel.

08/01/2020 14:15:13

So, if the tool was oriented horizontally, rather than vertically as in the sketch, that would be side milling. The sketch shows slot milling., even though the end of the tool does not come into contact with the work.

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 08/01/2020 14:17:47

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