Here is a list of all the postings AStroud has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: BCA jigborer motor|
Mine came with a 1ph motor fitted (3kw !!). It had been fitted by someone drilling mounting holes in the column about 5 1/2" down from the top mounting holes and I am guessing they must be tapped. Spacers are used to align with the pad. Otherwise I would have thought an adaptor plate would suffice.
Edited By AStroud on 19/12/2020 15:51:05
|Thread: My workshop improvements|
here's mine, seeing others makes me realise I should update the lighting
Edited By AStroud on 19/12/2020 10:47:40
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
Here's what I did to remove a stubborn filter.
Put 2 jubilee clips over the filter body with their worm drives aligned and tightened up.
Found a piece of pipe with id the same as the jubilee clip bands' od. In one end of the pipe cross drilled for a tommy bar. On the other end notched out a circular segment of length such that the clips' worm drives would fit into it. Put the pipe onto the filter with the notch around the worm drives and then used a tommy bar to unscrew the filter.
|Thread: MEM Corliss progress|
It is a Mk 111 about 35 years old, serial number is xxxxxE so in imperial. I managed to get it in good condition, looks like it is on its original belt and most importantly with some accessories including collets. I love it, only wish it was a bit bigger as we do with most of our machine tools.
Thanks for the comments.
yes, one of my cheats on the MRM drawings, the flywheel is from a billet. Stretched my S7 and BCA to accommodate it but I am happy how it has turned out. For the first time I finish bored for the crankshaft and have been rewarded for what looks like a wobble free flywheel.
First set out of the main assemblies of my Corliss, based on the MEM drawings
|Thread: Size of groove for O rings|
according to my James Walker design notes for O rings
for 0.125" cross section dia o ring
groove width = 0.159" - 0.164"
max piston groove dia = min cylinder dia minus 2 x (0.110" - 0.114" )
min piston groove dia = max cylinder dia minus 2 x (0.110" - 0.114" )
The design notes are available on the net and are well worth hunting down.
Edited By AStroud on 05/08/2019 17:38:05
|Thread: What mills have you had|
A BCA Mk 3 if it qualifies as a mill. I have it because of space limitations and it is a joy to use. Downside it is limited to small work but it suits my projects.
|Thread: BCA Jig Borer MK3|
Yes I do, but it is a reprint purchased from the lathes.co.uk website, quite pricey and a bit light in information but if you are a BCA enthusiast a must have I think.
The spring keeps the belt at the correct tension, there is a clear instruction in the instruction book about adjusting the tension arm to the correct fixed length so the spring is compressed to keep the belt at the correct tension.
I have a BCA Mk 111 and have just removed the spring , these are the measurements
L = 2.75 ins
OD = 1.03 ins
wire dia = 0.103 ins
Hope this helps, Andrew
Edited By Andrew Stroud on 21/10/2018 12:34:54
|Thread: O ring Pistons cylinder Clearance?|
I suggest you download a seal manufacturer's design guide where you will find advice on the design of housings for seals, including grooves for O rings. I have a guide from James Walker , would not be without it.
Thanks for all the comments, some good advice, I hadn't thought about looking in Machinery's, I see there is a lot there.
I am applying pressure above and below the stock, my knurling tool does have a graduated adjusting screw so I can set the depth cut, but I think doing by feel and inspection is probably the best way. I will raid the scrap box and start practicing.
I would like general advice please on how to knurl, having just purchased a caliper type tool with a diamond pattern for my S7. I understand the need to use slow speed and coolant but what I am not sure about is the number of passes to make.
One book talks about not cutting too deeply at the first pass and use a 10 thou cut, but if you want to make a deeper knurl am I correct in thinking the tool must be kept in contact with the work and not wound clear before increasing the cut ? Otherwise I cannot see how the tool engages exactly with the cut made in the first pass. Is it advisable to knurl with only 1 pass all the time ?
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