Here is a list of all the postings daveb has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Coolant pump|
How can you see fluid coming out of the drive shaft? The part in your last photo is the impeller housing which must be submerged in the coolant, there is a spigot on this for the delivery hose. If you are using a converter (not a VFD) you should not run the pump without the main motor, 3rd leg voltage can rise excessively and damage pump windings, minimum load for converter is usually around 1/2 HP. Voltages from converters can be lower than expected but would not affect RPM. Check impeller, check pipe and valve for blockage.
|Thread: Motor for Lathe|
180W is not enough for a treadmill, 1.8KW would be about right. If the machine originally ran off the mains and you intend to use the original controls, it doesn't matter what the motor voltage is since the motor driver supplies the correct voltage. You should locate and retain the speed sensor, some controls wont work without them. The controls usually consist of transformer and filters, electronic control and display and motor driver. The electronic control and display section may be removed and replaced with a potentiometer and on/off switch. If you do this, the speed control usually has to be set to minimum before the motor will start. Be careful with this, 200VDC can BITE!
|Thread: ML7 / Super 7 tailstock|
Yes, it will. I had an ML7 with both original tailstock and S7 Type, tool ejector was useful and drilling much easier. I also replaced original cross and topslide with S7 parts, huge improvement when used with Rodney milling attachment, and much better for turning.
|Thread: 3/8 BSF 1/2 long grubscrews|
I shortened a pair of longer grub screws to replace the 'orrible square headed ones, the back one always finished up under the tail of the top slide, I kept having to use the end of a 1/2" socket extension bar to get at it, very annoying!
I wrapped a bit of copper shim around the grub screws and held them in the 3 jaw chuck, shortened them by 1/4" and turned the dog point using HSS tool, job took less than 5 minutes.
|Thread: A very small Shaping Machine ...|
I have a Karl Anderle shaper which has a tool lifter. A pivoted tool post fits in place of the normal clapper box/slide assembly, an actuating lever fits on this and to a crank further back along the ram, the crank contains a friction clutch, the tool is lifted and dropped by adjustable stops acting on a lever attached to the crank.
|Thread: Lorch.Schmidt lathe|
Agreed, probably a universal motor. They didn't mind the occasional tingle in those days, motors were expensive. Many were run off a light socket adaptor (no earth), model making was much more of an adventure in years gone by.
|Thread: Warwickshire Show.|
|Thread: BH600G gearbox oiling|
I have a Warco 1327 lathe (the BH600 appears to be an economy version of this) the control panel on this is fitted to the right hand cabinet pedestal and the gearbox has a simple push on cover over the oil holes. I squirt some oil in the holes occasionally, seems to run straight out the bottom. Still working fine after 20 years so not likely to be a problem.
Re: Grizzly lubrication, there is absolutely no way I would get up in the middle of the night to oil my lathe. You can paint the front panel with grease without taking it off. Odd indeed!
|Thread: In 10 years time|
Thing are really bad when you get rubber money, it was bad enough getting rubber cheques.
|Thread: Chuck repair help needed|
It's only a screw. Isn't this the sort of thing you make on a lathe?
I modified some 1/2" BSW Allen grub screws to replace the screws on my Pratt 4" chuck, has anyone made new screws to suit the 6" chuck?
|Thread: colouring brass|
Many supermarkets stock ammonia, look in the household cleaners section, it's used (diluted) for removing wax polish from floors. Many years ago (not knowing any better) I took a good sniff of this stuff, was a bit like being hit on the head with a brick, from the inside.
|Thread: Any uses for a big chunk of spring steel?|
Go outside and wait for the lorry to go past again, gather up the wheels, half shafts and differential. Lots of useful bits there!
|Thread: Early Myford quick change gearbox.|
If you do not disengage the clasp nuts and reverse the drive, the thread will always pick up. This applies to both changewheels and gearboxes, it is really the only practical way to do it if you are cutting metric threads on an Imperial machine or vice versa. My only objection to doing it this way (for Imperial threads) is that it's slow and tedious but I suppose it depends on how much threading you have to do. If you disengage the clasp nuts, you will need the TDI to re-engage at the correct position, with or without gearbox. I have only had a quick look at Gray's device, looks good but again, depends on how much threading you need to do. Wear, starting and stopping the motor twice for each cut probably wouldn't do it a lot of good (applies to a single phase motor) but if you have an inverter system, this wouldn't be important. By not disengaging the clasp nuts, the leadscrew and nuts get exactly twice as much wear.
A little tip, check that the sliding selector lever lines up well with the label on top of the gearbox. Mine doesn't, I once cut a beautiful 11 TPI thread, trouble was I needed 10 TPI. Yes, I know, I should have checked.
If you do it that way, your lathe will be worn out in no time, use that method for metric and other strange threads.
For Imperial threads use the Thread Dial Indicator (Myford Part). Do not stop motor, disengage clasp nut lever, retract topslide, wind saddle back with handwheel, advance topslide, re-engage clasp nuts when correct division shows on TDI, repeat until thread is cut to depth. All Imperial threads will pick up if you always engage the clasp nuts at the same number but you can save time with some threads because they will pick up at other divisions of the DTI dial. Basic method is the same with gearbox or changewheels. There are a lot of refinements to all this but for cutting the occasional threads, the above method serves.
|Thread: Lath Chuck|
I have a chuck where the 1st tooth on No.1 jaw was very thin and and very close to the point of the jaw, I managed to break off the tooth by pushing the jaw too hard when inserting it into the chuck body. As a result, I spent several very entertaining minutes trying to get the jaws to line up. The sequence to fit the jaws is now 2-3-1.
|Thread: Alba Shaper|
Mike, the levers on my machine are the same. I will post requested photos, this may take a few days. I don't know if you are fairly local to me but I do not have any use for this machine (I took it home to stop it going in a skip), if you can use it for parts, you are welcome to it.
Bazyle, I'm fairly sure all shapers had clutches, would be very difficult to operate without. I know the old boys used to apply downfeed with the machine running but a clutch is essential to stop the ram while someone fetches a tourniquet.
Ian, I remember visiting a factory with my dad, probably about 60 years ago, shafts and belts everywhere, noisy beyond belief, frightened the living daylights out of me - probably still would!
Mike, I have an early Alba 1A with clutch, there are 2 levers on the right side (viewed from the front). The horizontal lever selects high/low gear (push/pull), the other lever (raise/lower) operates the clutch via a cam and push rod. I don't have any paperwork for the machine but would be happy to photograph and measure the parts. Strange picture on Tony Griffiths website, can anyone here see how the machine is powered? Dave.
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