Here is a list of all the postings daveb has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chuck repair help needed|
It's only a screw. Isn't this the sort of thing you make on a lathe?
I modified some 1/2" BSW Allen grub screws to replace the screws on my Pratt 4" chuck, has anyone made new screws to suit the 6" chuck?
|Thread: colouring brass|
Many supermarkets stock ammonia, look in the household cleaners section, it's used (diluted) for removing wax polish from floors. Many years ago (not knowing any better) I took a good sniff of this stuff, was a bit like being hit on the head with a brick, from the inside.
|Thread: Any uses for a big chunk of spring steel?|
Go outside and wait for the lorry to go past again, gather up the wheels, half shafts and differential. Lots of useful bits there!
|Thread: Early Myford quick change gearbox.|
If you do not disengage the clasp nuts and reverse the drive, the thread will always pick up. This applies to both changewheels and gearboxes, it is really the only practical way to do it if you are cutting metric threads on an Imperial machine or vice versa. My only objection to doing it this way (for Imperial threads) is that it's slow and tedious but I suppose it depends on how much threading you have to do. If you disengage the clasp nuts, you will need the TDI to re-engage at the correct position, with or without gearbox. I have only had a quick look at Gray's device, looks good but again, depends on how much threading you need to do. Wear, starting and stopping the motor twice for each cut probably wouldn't do it a lot of good (applies to a single phase motor) but if you have an inverter system, this wouldn't be important. By not disengaging the clasp nuts, the leadscrew and nuts get exactly twice as much wear.
A little tip, check that the sliding selector lever lines up well with the label on top of the gearbox. Mine doesn't, I once cut a beautiful 11 TPI thread, trouble was I needed 10 TPI. Yes, I know, I should have checked.
If you do it that way, your lathe will be worn out in no time, use that method for metric and other strange threads.
For Imperial threads use the Thread Dial Indicator (Myford Part). Do not stop motor, disengage clasp nut lever, retract topslide, wind saddle back with handwheel, advance topslide, re-engage clasp nuts when correct division shows on TDI, repeat until thread is cut to depth. All Imperial threads will pick up if you always engage the clasp nuts at the same number but you can save time with some threads because they will pick up at other divisions of the DTI dial. Basic method is the same with gearbox or changewheels. There are a lot of refinements to all this but for cutting the occasional threads, the above method serves.
|Thread: Lath Chuck|
I have a chuck where the 1st tooth on No.1 jaw was very thin and and very close to the point of the jaw, I managed to break off the tooth by pushing the jaw too hard when inserting it into the chuck body. As a result, I spent several very entertaining minutes trying to get the jaws to line up. The sequence to fit the jaws is now 2-3-1.
|Thread: Alba Shaper|
Mike, the levers on my machine are the same. I will post requested photos, this may take a few days. I don't know if you are fairly local to me but I do not have any use for this machine (I took it home to stop it going in a skip), if you can use it for parts, you are welcome to it.
Bazyle, I'm fairly sure all shapers had clutches, would be very difficult to operate without. I know the old boys used to apply downfeed with the machine running but a clutch is essential to stop the ram while someone fetches a tourniquet.
Ian, I remember visiting a factory with my dad, probably about 60 years ago, shafts and belts everywhere, noisy beyond belief, frightened the living daylights out of me - probably still would!
Mike, I have an early Alba 1A with clutch, there are 2 levers on the right side (viewed from the front). The horizontal lever selects high/low gear (push/pull), the other lever (raise/lower) operates the clutch via a cam and push rod. I don't have any paperwork for the machine but would be happy to photograph and measure the parts. Strange picture on Tony Griffiths website, can anyone here see how the machine is powered? Dave.
|Thread: Off with my Headstock (Super 7)|
Yes, they are very tight indeed.
I used an impact driver, the cheap one you hit with a hammer, with an allen key fitted to a 1/2 inch socket. These are available from car accessory shops for a few pounds. Did the job very easily and without damaging the screws. 2lb club hammer works best.
|Thread: Gum Tree|
I responded to a Gumtree ad for a ML7.
I offered to collect and pay cash, seller replied they would deliver at no charge COD, I would be able to examine goods and pay only if satisfied.
Next day received email, apparently from well known carrier saying my goods were ready for delivery, I needed to go to a shop, buy a voucher for the cash amount and send a scan of it to them.
I didn't have a scanner so couldn't oblige.
Watch out for scammers, don't part with cash unless you can put your hands on the goods and the vendor at the same time.
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