Here is a list of all the postings daveb has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Early Myford quick change gearbox.|
If you do it that way, your lathe will be worn out in no time, use that method for metric and other strange threads.
For Imperial threads use the Thread Dial Indicator (Myford Part). Do not stop motor, disengage clasp nut lever, retract topslide, wind saddle back with handwheel, advance topslide, re-engage clasp nuts when correct division shows on TDI, repeat until thread is cut to depth. All Imperial threads will pick up if you always engage the clasp nuts at the same number but you can save time with some threads because they will pick up at other divisions of the DTI dial. Basic method is the same with gearbox or changewheels. There are a lot of refinements to all this but for cutting the occasional threads, the above method serves.
|Thread: Lath Chuck|
I have a chuck where the 1st tooth on No.1 jaw was very thin and and very close to the point of the jaw, I managed to break off the tooth by pushing the jaw too hard when inserting it into the chuck body. As a result, I spent several very entertaining minutes trying to get the jaws to line up. The sequence to fit the jaws is now 2-3-1.
|Thread: Alba Shaper|
Mike, the levers on my machine are the same. I will post requested photos, this may take a few days. I don't know if you are fairly local to me but I do not have any use for this machine (I took it home to stop it going in a skip), if you can use it for parts, you are welcome to it.
Bazyle, I'm fairly sure all shapers had clutches, would be very difficult to operate without. I know the old boys used to apply downfeed with the machine running but a clutch is essential to stop the ram while someone fetches a tourniquet.
Ian, I remember visiting a factory with my dad, probably about 60 years ago, shafts and belts everywhere, noisy beyond belief, frightened the living daylights out of me - probably still would!
Mike, I have an early Alba 1A with clutch, there are 2 levers on the right side (viewed from the front). The horizontal lever selects high/low gear (push/pull), the other lever (raise/lower) operates the clutch via a cam and push rod. I don't have any paperwork for the machine but would be happy to photograph and measure the parts. Strange picture on Tony Griffiths website, can anyone here see how the machine is powered? Dave.
|Thread: Off with my Headstock (Super 7)|
Yes, they are very tight indeed.
I used an impact driver, the cheap one you hit with a hammer, with an allen key fitted to a 1/2 inch socket. These are available from car accessory shops for a few pounds. Did the job very easily and without damaging the screws. 2lb club hammer works best.
|Thread: Gum Tree|
I responded to a Gumtree ad for a ML7.
I offered to collect and pay cash, seller replied they would deliver at no charge COD, I would be able to examine goods and pay only if satisfied.
Next day received email, apparently from well known carrier saying my goods were ready for delivery, I needed to go to a shop, buy a voucher for the cash amount and send a scan of it to them.
I didn't have a scanner so couldn't oblige.
Watch out for scammers, don't part with cash unless you can put your hands on the goods and the vendor at the same time.
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