Here is a list of all the postings Rod Renshaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Brazing Hearth|
I have tried to insert some photos without sucess. I fail at the first hurdle, as not being a social media user, I don't know how to upload.
I have however sent some photos to the blacksmith who plans to advertise his work on Facebook so if you have access to that (I don't) you should be able to see my hearth.
NDIY, the Iron Dwarf (Dave) is fairly short, and he describes himself as a fabricator rather than a blacksmith. He shares a shed with the Copper Elf who makes copper bowls and spoons etc for re-enactors as well as being a proper blacksmith, and between them they run courses in blacksmith's work ( Not at present) Their shed is full to bursting with steel and copper things and bits of things. They are very welcoming and put the kettle on the forge.
|Thread: Harrison M300 - am I going crazy?|
Always something new to learn on this forum.
I was thinking of a 2 axis DRO for my mill but now I have seen Clive's posts I will get a 3 axis one, and perhaps a scale for the quill as well!
|Thread: Brazing Hearth|
My extempore hearth was a barbeque, bought at an end of season sale from the garden centre. It was rather flimsy and rusted badly and the stand was very wobbly. I guess firebericks are a lot heavier than some charcoal and few steaks.
thanks for the directions to the instructions.
however, I need some instructions which explain HOW to upload.
I have photos on my laptop which I could attach to an email but that's the extent of my IT knowledge. Can anyone post instructions in Janet and John language for posting photos?
NDIY is very close to the mark.
I have wanted a brazing hearth for some years, getting tired of improvised arrangements which never seemed entirely safe. There are designs in old MEs but I was put off trying to make one because I don't have a big folder and I don't weld.
There did not seem to be anything on the market between the small one made by Cup alloys and the large and expensive ones made for Industry and schools. So I thought I would try to get one made.
After a few false starts I found a guy on ebay who normally makes reproductions of medieval cooking ranges for historical re-enactors to use and show off at the weekend events the re-enactors gather at. There are few (no?) events this year, so his work has dried up.
He does not normally make brazing hearths but he was willing to make one to my specification. ( Nothing exotic, just a basic design from ME, but to my sizes)
The blacksmith made me first a hearth, and then a trolley to support it, both very quickly and for less money than I could have bought the raw materials for at retail prices, just to keep his business ticking over. The trolley is like a steel erector's version of a Victorian tea trolley - much more robust than I could easily have made myself.
So, if you need a hearth or indeed anything else of that general type ( frame for workbench?) this might be the year to find a guy to make one for you at an advantageous price, and you get to help a small blacksmith stay in business.
|Thread: Mystery post|
Qualters and Smith made machine tools in Barnsley, in Yorkshire.
Perhaps they also made street furniture like this post. So the name may be just the manufacturer and not indicate the purpose which this item served.
It has the look of a switchbox, fusebox or similar, so it could have switched or supplied almost anything, traffic lights, street lights etc. depending on location. Canals seems unlikely as (In UK anyway) canals don't seem to have had any electrical systems at all. Is there a chance there was something on the top which is now missing?
The applied number suggests it was part of a largish system so perhaps the Local Authority planning or roads departments might know?
|Thread: Mill Tip|
Jason, agreed, but even a rough block can be improved. Viz - grip the block deep in the vice using packers if needed. Take a small step out of one edge. Invert block and grip again, deep in the vice, resting the step on a narrow parallel. Take a second step on the edge above the first step. These 2 steps must be parallel and can be used to grip the block shallow in the vice for the first stage of the squaring up process. Seems to work Ok.
I agree about the limit on size. I found that I had to use a conventional end mill ,whereas I usually use a face cutter with inserts for facing, but it's no use for this method.
Tried this and it really works.
I had to watch the video a few times to be sure I understood it. It uses some lateral thinking and the basic geometry of the machine, rather than fiddling about with squares and "round parallels", and it seems to save a lot of time as well as giving a more accurate result.
Definately worth watching if you mill and have to square up blocks before doing anything more interesting.
|Thread: Can anyone identify this tool please|
I have always called it a "wobbler", more properly a centring tool as described above. I use mine quite a lot as you don't need the tailstock centre as other types do.
|Thread: Display Case Making|
Glass sounds better than acrylic to me.
Acrylic (Perspex/Plexiglas) looks great when it is new, but it is quite soft and dust, even domestic house dust, is very abrasive. After a few years of energetic dusting, perhaps by SWMBO, acrylic will look scratched and on its way to becoming opaque, and the maker's pride and joy will start to look old and tatty and perhaps SWMBO will want to hide it away, and the next generation will not want it at all.
|Thread: Rotary Tool Support for Lathe|
Add: Perhaps it would be possible to use the Ignatz setup, but turned end for end, and mounted on the lathe bed just in front of the lathe headstock. This would then be a high speed spindle for turning tiny work, and all the usual lathe movements are still useable, or one might mount a hand tool rest and use gravers. The Proxon/ Dremel would use up some of the length of the lathe bed but tiny work is likely to be short so this may not matter. cylindrical work could be held in the Proxon/ Dremel chuck or one might make tiny wax chucks for disc type work.
Any thoughts anyone?
The Proxon/ Dremel as Potts spindle is a good idea for drilling or milling work held in the lathe chuck or faceplate.
What struck me about Ignatz's setup is that it effectively creates a very high speed headstock spindle, admitedly at the "wrong" end of the lathe, which might have some special uses of its own, eg for turning small or very small work.
Add: I wonder if I could make a holder for the Dremel which I could hold in my fixed steady??
That's a useful idea. I think I will make one for my Dremel.
|Thread: Lathe tooling identification - help please|
Your 3rd and 4th picures show mostly what appear to be "Arrand" brand acccessories, which are very good quality and are (I think) no longer available. If advertised as Arrand they may attract considerable interest.
|Thread: Coping with voltage spikes|
Hi Tim, it was just an idea!
The experts seem to be strugging to assist you to find a workable solution to the expiring LED problem. I can't remember a thread as long as this about one little lamp to read a gauge by.
I hope you do get it sorted and can then enjoy driving your mother in law around.
Didn't the old loco drivers have an oil lamp to light the water gauge?
I really, really, hesitate to second-guess Andrew but I think SOD's circuit, though flawed, could indicate a simple solution.
The LED symbol in SOD's circuit is the wrong way round, as Andrew says, but it's also a simplified version of reality. The LED that Tim is using has a series resistor or other circutry built in, as supplied, to render it suitable to run off a 12 v supply. The zener circuit (once corrected) supplies 12 v whatever the input voltage, as long as it's > 12v and within reason ,Then the LED should light happily?
|Thread: Watchmaker's lathe|
+1, it's a safety pulley. For clarity, I would like to add that it goes on the headstock end of the lathe and as Michael says it is used when turning work between centres. The work is held between 2 (usually female ) centres and it has a small pulley ( called a ferrule) mounted on it. The drive belt, whether from a bow or a motor, goes around the safety pulley , which rotates freely, and just brushes the ferrule. By adjusting the position of the safety pulley the drive belt wraps around the ferrule to a greater or lesser degree and provides a greater or lesser drive to the work - useful for very delicate work.
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