Here is a list of all the postings Rod Renshaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Collet Blocks|
May not be so much, converts to about £45.00 in sterling? So if you really want one...
|Thread: "Clog" toolpost- replace?|
The screws to hold the ratchet for the 4 way toolpost onto the Myford topslide are 2BA countersunk screws about 1/2" long.
|Thread: Stellite 98M2 tools|
Wow! excellent anecdote, I would not have thought that possible.
I watched a guy build up a pushrod end on a commercial diesel engine with melted stellite. The end had eroded badly, perhaps it had not been hardened properly from new, but it was a real mess when the engine was stripped.
The mechanic then ground the stellite coating back to an approximation of the original contour on the bench grinder. It took a long time and he eventually said "that will have to do" in exasperation at the time it was taking and the hardness of the stellite. As far as I know the engine went back into service without problem. Mechanics were resourceful and spares hard to source in those days and, as ever, time was money.
|Thread: Reaming Holes in Fixture Plate - What Type of Reamer|
As there are to be many more holes than dowels it might be worth making dowels to fit the holes.
That is, drill or ream etc the holes first, by your chosen method, the precise size being less important than that they are all the same, and then make dowels to fit. Turned down silver steel left unhardened would last a fair length of time in holes in ali plate. Turning the pins would, I think, be easier than trying to reduce the size of a mill while leaving it sharp enough to cut ali.
More methods than you can shake a stick at!
|Thread: Stellite 98M2 tools|
If you have oxy-acetylene you can melt the end of a piece of Stellite and "drip" it onto a steel component to give a very hard surface, rather like case hardening but harder. Useful for pushrod ends and similar parts which need a hard surface.,
|Thread: Lidl Portable Bandsaw|
I have the Aldi £160.00 bandsaw and I am pleased with it. Mine is branded "Ferrox" and the vice and blade on mine seem okay. I used to have a 6 X 4 bandsaw and the Aldi one cuts as well, including on steel, but it can't be left to get on with cutting unattended as you have to keep the trigger switch depressed. I don't expect very accurate cuts but it seems good of it's type. The Lidl one seems essentially similar to the Aldi from the photo except that the plastic handles are different, mine has mostly hex socket screws rather than plastic handles.
|Thread: Good YouTube videos|
"Tubal Cain" was the pen name of Tom Walshaw, a professional engineer and academic, and a very expert and prolific contributor to ME, and also author, until his death in 1998.
Since his death someone else has adopted the name ( which is a biblical reference) to make uTubes etc., I don't know anything about the new guy.
|Thread: Evolution rage2|
i bought one of the £150.00 Aldi band saws and have been very pleased with it. It's fairly quiet, does not throw swarf about and it has variable speed for different materials. I have bought spare blades from Tuff saws but not yet had the replace the original blade. There was at least one thread on the forum on these saws, about 2 years ago. it was an on line -only offer, not sure if they still do them.
|Thread: ME Fastener Suppliers?|
EKP list 10 BA steel studding
|Thread: Drop on recoil escapement|
+1 for the video. I am not a clockmaker but I have often wondered how an escape wheel gave impulse to a pendulum. it is obvious that it must happen, or the clock would stop, but I found it difficult to understand how from drawings.. The slow motion of the video makes it all very clear.
|Thread: Dressing a diamond wheel|
I think I read somewhere that diamond wheels should only be used to cut carbide and that using them to cut HSS will result in the steel in the HSS "eating" the carbon out of the diamonds, some sort of chemical reaction. I think this only happens at high temperature so that using a diamond slip or "oilstone" on HSS is okay. If true this is clearly important to bear in mind if changing from stone to diamond.
Anyone else have information about this?
|Thread: Gear Train noise?|
All good stuff on reducing the gear noise at source.
When you have done all you can to reduce the noise you can sound insulate the cover to some extent. Thermal insulation products are not really effective - to deaden sound you need something heavy!
There are heavy sound deadening mats for reducing engine noise in cars and, as suggested above by Nicholas, you can used lead sheet. The thicker the better, wrapped or moulded to fit inside or outside the cover and with as few holes or gaps as possible.
|Thread: Home Automation Technique|
Might need expert advice about this.
The temperature of the air inside and outside also matters. Warm air can have a lower relative humidity than colder air while at the same time holding more water. so any control system may (will?) need to factor the temperature difference in as well as the relative humidity.
A friend had a similar problem and during a spell of warm dry weather he ventilated his cold damp basement and found it getting wetter! this counter-intuitive effect is apparently because the warm outside air, which seems dry, can often contain more water as vapour than the same air can contain when it is ducted into a cold basement, so the surplus water condenses out.
Edited By Rod Renshaw on 09/10/2020 09:53:08
Thanks for posting that link, I had not seen it before and found it very informative about issues beyond piston rings.
|Thread: Looking for a very small lathe.|
There is a website called "Adventures in Watchmaking" in which the author describes in almost poetic terms his work to make a watch from raw steel and brass stock on his Cowells lathe, a very superior machine, handmade in UK. Lots of lathe etc techniques to learn from, imagine making a watch!
|Thread: Odd Spanner|
+1 for the Ideal Home Exhibition special. Worked OK for a time but snapped when it met a tight nut, and not really missed as it had a tendency to chew up the nuts.
|Thread: 5BA Threads|
Thanks to everyone who contributed links to suppliers and thread tables to this forum thread, I now know of sources of supply I was unaware of.
|Thread: Ball bearings and friction.|
Would bigger balls, with more stored kinetic energy ( cf big flywheel) extend the run time?
|Thread: White rock salt|
When the temperature rises fairly quickly excess water will condense from the air onto any cold surfaces that happen to be around, which can include machine tools etc., as they are large and warm up slowly. This will happen even in hot climates, unless the climate is very dry.
But if one uses low consumption heaters on, near or under the covers of each machine then the machines will not have cold surfaces and the excess water will condense out onto something else, and the machines should not rust. The water has to condense out somewhere but better on the floor or walls than on the tools?
Better to have insulation so that the internal temperature cannot rise quickly, and best to have some background heating for comfort. Ventilation systems can also work by getting the warming moist air out of the shop as the temperature rises but these may require quite complex control systems or a lot of switching on and off by an attentive person to work effectively.
|Thread: Where's this rust come from ?|
I don't want to labour a point but PVA does produce acetic acid, see " cameo.mfa.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_ acetate" and to quote from "Collection Risks" - "May release acetic acid on curing, ageing and deterioration."
I am not much of a chemist, and I had to look this up, but I understand that PVA was originally made by a German chemist, Fritz Katte, in 1912 by reacting acetic acid with ethylene in the presence of mercury. I don't know the precise reaction for the release of the acid but I imagine the PVA is partially decomposing as it cures. The aging and deterioration will be very slow so I don't think any acid release will be troubling after the initial cure.
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