Here is a list of all the postings Rod Renshaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Coal being phased out|
My reference above to "Martin's last post" was to his Goodnight nurse post, not the Bitcoin one. , he must have been typing again as I was typing.
At last! - some sense in the last 3 or 4 posts.
When younger I was told that it was not considered polite to discuss politics or religion at the dinner table as this would cause arguments that would not lead anywhere - perhaps we should add climate change to the list.
I personally am convinced it's happening, it does not take a degree in physics to read a thermometer and weather stations and geographers around the world agree the world is warming up. If it's not human activity which is causing this rapid change then I see no other plausible alternative explanation and I agree with Martin's last post.
I am concerned that vested interests and a desire to continue living our usual lives may be acting to delay any effective remedial action until everyone can be convinced, and then it may be too late as some effects of warming, such as loss of albedo caused by ice cap melting may not be easy to reverse.
|Thread: John Attlee|
While Daniel is correct on one level, I am guessing that John restores older machines to become historical exhibits or museum pieces or something of that kind, and that they will not be used in any aggressive role in their new lives. So perhaps it's not a bad thing that they are preserved as examples of man's follies.
In any event Daniel's post does not seem calculated to welcome John to the forum which is a pity as we usually welcome all new members whatever kind of work they do, on whatever kind of scale and whatever their background or level of expertise.
So, John, welcome to the forum, you will find it generally welcoming, helpful and constructive, though we have a few grumpy old sods who can't help getting on their high horses and pontificating at great length, though even they can be informative and even amusing at times.
|Thread: Tool post for Myford ML10 lathe|
+1 for views of NW 1 but I find it also pays to think of the total time that the job may take as being made up of the time to change the tool and also the time taken to make the cut. For smallish work requiring several tool changes then I use a QCTP and find it adequate and quick. But the QCTP overhangs the side of the topslide and lacks the rigidity needed to take heavy cuts. I wonder if the real limitation with using the QCTP is the topslide itself - which tilts sideways under load because of the overhang.
So for biggish work requiring a lot of metal to be removed on a smallish (Myford) lathe then I switch to an earlier idea and find the taken to switch is more than compensated for by the ability to take much.heavier cuts.
My earlier system is based on the "Simple Toolholders" advocated by Dr Robert Rose in a short series of articles in ME. Vol 138 (1972). These toolholders are just short lengths of BMS with a slot milled in one side to hold a HSS toolbit. Imagine one side of a 4 way toolpost "detached" as it were, from it's fellows, and with very short screws. The article advocates one makes a holder for each tool likely to be used. The toolbits are held in the holders, complete with their dedicated packing, by short grub screws. The holders are held on the topslide by the "Clog" toolpost supplied with the lathe. The holders are quick and easy to make, cost virtually nothing and, because they are held almost centrally on the topslide, they are very rigid and make heavy cuts easy. Considering the simplicity and cheapness, I think this is a good system which could easily be adapted to holding tipped tools.
Not everyone will have access to the articles but if they are available, they are well worth reading, perhaps Neil could reprint them.
|Thread: Conecutters to produce rough MT1 and MT2 shaped holes?|
I faced a similar problem a few years ago and solved it by grinding tapers on 2 woodworkers flatbits of suitable sizes. I think the larger one was for cutting a 5/8 " diameter hole but can't really remember.
The steel of which these bits are made is just a little too hard to file easily but it grinds easily, the degree of accuracy needed is not high and I did the job on my off-hand grinder. If you make the new sloping edges each slightly convex then the hole grips at the top and bottom of the tool taper so the tools are held securely. I agree about the lubricant, which also helps with rust prevention.
Give each edge a little back clearance for easier cutting but in practice the detail does not seem to matter much, it will cut it's way into wood whatever the geometry of the edge. The bits are quite cheap and can be bought singly and can be retained for further use.
|Thread: Workshop lighting|
LED batten lamps can be obtained from many retailers such as Screwfix and they resemble florescent tube batten lamp fittings and screw to the ceiling in the same way. They are easy to wire up (have Live, Neutral and Earth terminals), they consume little power and they start instantly and give a bright white light. Highly recommended! The active elements cannot be replaced, ( so the makers say, but an expert DIYer may think differently) the whole fitting will need to be replaced in due course but they are supposed to last a long time, so may be "fit and forget" in a mature worker's shop.
|Thread: Grease Myford Super 7?|
That's always been my understanding . I have owned and used a Super 7 for over 40 years and have always only used oil. The instruction book only mentions oil. I think think the question has been raised on this forum before and the answer from everyone was "Only oil".
|Thread: Rack operated tailstock|
I have one these ( same as HasBeans, except mine has 1/16" graduations) and I prefer it to the handwheel. I can estimate a depth to about 1/64" which seems accurate enough for drilling holes. The standard Myford handwheel tailstock has no graduations on the handwheel and the depth has to be estimated from the 1/8" graduations on the barrel itself. The other advantages are that the taper in the barrel is very easy to clean out and one can use a drawbar to secure collets and turrets in the tailstock. I have made a "bumper out" from a length of 1/2" steel bar with a brass tip on one end and a simple, but weighty, steel handle on the other. I keep this loose in the tailstock barrel and I don't miss the self-eject facility. The same bumper out is also useful in the headstock.
|Thread: Evolution of a 4 Tool Turret|
Many thanks for the explanation.
I have not come across the word "urge" used in this context.
Can anyone explain please.
Fascinating modification, I feel sure George would approve.
|Thread: Any 5" Gauge Ground Level Turntable Articles or Advice?|
I was once shown a "writing hut" which the homeowner had built in his garden and which rotated to catch the sun on a home made lazy susan bearing. The bearing itself was made of 3 sheets of plywood each about 8 feet in diameter. The lower sheet apparently rested on the foundations and the upper sheet was secured to the base of the shed. The middle sheet had holes drilled in it in 3 (or possibly 4) concentric circles to act as a cage and children's glass marbles were used as ball bearings. I was told the bearings had indented the plywood a little in use, to make tracks in the upper and lower sheets of ply and that there was a "bolt" in the centre to form a centre bearing, the builder was not an engineer. I don't know what the shed weighed but it seemed strongly made and the owner was keen to demonstrate that the shed could be rotated with little effort even with 4 or so of his guests crowded into it.
it might be a bit homespun for a turntable but it does demonstrate what can be done with simple arrangements.
If the load on the turntable is 1,000 lb and there are (say) 200 marbles, it does not seem unreasonable to expect a marble to support 5 lb?
These felts are still available for Myford 7s.
I understand that you can make your own and that chiropody felt ,available on the web, is a good material to use.
Memory suggests that the chemical is alum, as used in cooking, but I can't remember the details. I seem to remember it takes quite a long time.
|Thread: Dam Solution?|
I am rather taken with SOD's explanation for how siphons work using the analogy of a chain being dragged over an edge by gravity. ( I am sure JAs explanation using maths will be correct but I don't have the maths to follow it)
If we assume SODs explanation is a good analogy then I don't see any problem about water having nearly no tensile strength- which may well be true in general but in this case the water is in a pipe. The water has to stay in an unbroken length within the pipe because any break would cause a vacuum in any gap that formed. and air pressure on the water at both ends of the pipe would not allow that to happen- so the water behaves as if it does have tensile strength.
There is a limit though. It is well known that a siphon will not work over a "lip" of over 30 feet or so because the atmospheric pressure will not support the water column, and this may limit the use of siphons in large civil engineering situations. I am not clear how, or indeed if, siphons work in a vacuum.
|Thread: Deburring small items after parting off|
Small tumblers are used by collectors and polishers of pebbles and semi-precious stones, and these are readily available from specialised shops and on the net.
|Thread: Half hollow steel balls|
Is half a hemisphere a quarter sphere?
|Thread: Precision Level or Precision Frame Level|
Many thanks for your prompt and comprehensive reply to my question.
I just have to find one like yours now!
Even if I can't find an adjustable one, I now have an idea of the sensitivity I am looking for.
After reading many of the contributions to this thread I am thinking of buying a level to use for "leveling" my lathe, and also for setting work up on my mill.
There has been much input on this thread about the sensitivity needed for these tasks and I find myself confused by all the different "Units" quoted by manufacturers and advertisers.
There seem to be units based on angles such as degrees, minutes and seconds of arc, and also degrees and decimal fractions of a degree. Then there are units based on offsets, and here there are many different lengths of baseline and some use Imperial measures and some use Metric units.
So how sensitive does the level need to be? and can the answer be quoted in many units so that levels from different sources can be compared? It is almost as if we could do with a conversion table, anyone know of one?
Thanks to anyone who can clarify this.
|Thread: Fuse for "Align" slow motion mill table motor|
Pero and John
Thanks for your guidance on this. I have now fitted a 5 Amp fuse and all is well!
The fuse is a quick blow type which is all I was able to source locally, but I will order a few slow blow as spares.
If anyone else has this type of problem it may save time to be aware that the green indicator lamp on the Align transformer box only shows the presence of the mains input, and gives no information about the state of the internal fuse or the 110 v output.
I have an " Align" brand slow motion table drive on my mill, and as this required a 110v input supply and my mains supply is 240v I bought an "Align" step down transformer to go with it. This has worked well for some years, but then it stopped! I have tracked down the problem to a fuse in the transformer box which has blown - probably because I stupidly caused the motor to stall. I am hopeful that this is the only problem and that replacing the fuse will be a solution.
Problem is I can't read the markings on the Chinese fuse. The drive unit is a Model CE-500S, rated at 110v 90W. A simplistic calculation says 90W divided by 110V = just less than 1 Amp. ( The fuse is on the output, 110v side, of the transformer) Is a 1 Amp fuse enough or should I uprate the fuse to allow for startup current etc? Also, should this be a slow-blow fuse? The original fuse seems to have been a simple quick blow type with a transparent glass body and presumably it had a single wire inside it, but there is no trace of the wire now.
Can anyone offer any advice about this?
Thanks in advance.
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