Here is a list of all the postings Rod Renshaw has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Source of 2 inch balls for water pump|
A local craft woodturner could make replacement balls, to replace the ones that have lasted 60 years.
|Thread: Call me cynical / Call me thick ... but|
+1 for Jacks view. The article seems to be saying "they" have found that several different atoms give slightly different results and in due course there may have to be a reconsideration of what is the most useful way to define the second. It's happened before, but it seems unlikely that any non-specialist will notice any difference.
|Thread: Tea Spoons|
I was reading oven man's post and wondering about his experience of stainless steel cutlery going black, and then I got to the mention of dishwasher tablets.
My wife and I have a dishwasher but rarely use it - being just the 2 of us and having simple meals and being retired and Radio 4 listeners we tend to wash up after every meal with washing up liquid in a bowl. Our 40 year old daily use stainless cutlery is as bright today as when we bought it.
|Thread: Pressure Turning|
Hmm... The OP seems to be asking about making flat discs by trimming the edges of a rough blank with ordinary turning tools, something that can be done with the methods listed above.
"Spinning", as I understand it, is forming a bowl like shape ( or a loco chimney top) from a flat disc by pressing the rotating disc against a former using a smooth ended tool to force the disc into a 3 dimensional shape. This requires a lot of pressure and a substantial lathe.
|Thread: File sizes|
Can't speak about Arc, but it is conventional to ignore the tang when measuring the length of a file.
|Thread: 5 BA Cap screws|
Did you find some screws?
I have a few 10mm long ones, are they long enough, how many do you need?
|Thread: Advice on Heat Treating|
I read somewhere that back in the day when the colour of "Cherry Red" was originally used as a description of metal temperature, most of the apprentices being taught would only have been familiar with the glace cherries they saw on the Sunday tea table. Apparently fresh cherries would not have been seen in industrial cities at that time.
|Thread: 12V Motor for a Top Slide Drilling Attachment|
I admire Joseph Noci's version of a toolpost drill, and think he is right about the power needed.
It takes the same power to drill a hole in the lathe as it does in a drill press, so many setups that are fine for small drills will be very under powered for larger drills or milling cutters. So if the need is to drill holes of (say) 6mm or greater, then a 1/2 HP motor would not be excessive.
|Thread: Advice on Heat Treating|
Hmm.. it's not a normal process AFAIK, but it should work if the process could be controlled. The thicker parts might be surface hardened while the thinner parts might be hardened (and brittle) all the way through. Difficult to get any consistent results on a small component I would have thought. On a larger object one might try local heating with acetylene, and then quenching, on those bits needing to be hard.
Some good ideas on tempering above.
I have tried boiling parts in water as Peter suggested but found the tempering effect to be rather small ( only 100 C ) and parts of any complex shape still broke. It might work okay on "blocky" shapes not subject to shock loading. The oven ( up to 250 C ) works better.
There are Youtubes on making simple muffle furnaces from baked bean tins and fireclay, and powered by a propane torch which should give more controllable results, up to maybe 650C, which might give a tough result rather than a brittle one. Might more consistent for the initial hardening, at a higher temp, as well as the tempering. Not tried this myself.
For occasional amateur use, the parts might work for a long time even if left soft.
Yes, now you have said Birmabright, I realise I have misremembered.
From memory, ternplate was used for the bodies of older Landrovers.
|Thread: Countersink bits|
I think I read somewhere that rose bits were really woodworkers' tools.
Single cutting edge countersink bits, of which there are several patterns, cut mild steel without chattering.
|Thread: Oiler from lamp Bulb|
All university chemistry departments used to have a glass blower, and many may still have one. They are real artists and can work glass tube into wonderful things, sometimes to meet someone's need and sometimes just for fun. If you can find one they would make you a suitable bulb for interest or beer money.
|Thread: TOPIC VARIETY|
+ 1 for Peter S-H' s view in his post of 20.2.21 at 18.17pm, I like the variety of the posts on the forum, and discussion of the content is a useful thing to do from time to time. However it seems to me that the forum content is what the members post, there being only a few moderators' deletions, so the content is up to the members.
I had been under the impression that the forum was the MEW forum, judging from the content and Neil's input, now I know better. If others have formed the same impression for similar reasons that will have tended to shape the posts made, and perhaps also the members who choose to belong, a sort of positive feedback loop.
Those who want more posts about models can get them by making more posts about models to shift the balance? I can't see any issues for the moderators about that shift. And like when reading ME and MEW, some articles/ posts will appeal to some readers more than others. We get what we post.
Edited to make it clear which of P S-H' posts I was supporting
Edited By Rod Renshaw on 20/02/2021 19:15:22
|Thread: Censorship on this forum|
+1 for Peter' s view. ( where is that "like" button! )
I accept that this is not a forum for politics, but there have been mentions on here of Facebook being involved in the workings of this forum in some way, so we have a legitimate interest in it's doings.
|Thread: Wavy Parallels|
In addition to the use described above by Oldiron, it is useful sometimes to use accurate "normal" parallels to rest the work on, and use slightly lower wavy parallels between the normal parallels to keep the normal parallels from toppling over.
|Thread: How Many People Does it Take to Change a Lightbulb on the Forum?|
Well, that was good for a laff!
Bits of truth buried in there as well, we can be a pedantic lot.
At least there are few really nasty or personal comments as seem to be the norm on some forums.
(edited for missing word)
Edited By Rod Renshaw on 17/02/2021 16:12:45
|Thread: Winter Gloves ... any recommendations ?|
I have used Buffalo Pertex/ fibre pile mitts for some years with every success. They are flexible and give reasonable manipulation ability. they are lightweight and showerproof warm when wet, and they dry while you watch. Buffalo are made in Sheffield and AFAIK don't have retail outlets so are well geared up for mail order and exchanges etc. There is a website.
Watch the sizing though. AFAIK Buffalo only make one range of mitts. So the Small fits a smallish child, the Medium fits a smallish female hand and the Large fits my small man's hand. They make sizes up to about XXXXL One good feature is that one can wear one size on top of the next smaller. So I wear Large in normal bad weather and put Extra Large in top in the worst weather.
I have also found that if I wear really warm clothing on the rest of me, my hands don't seem to get cold at all even without gloves, unless there is a very strong wind or freezing rain. So many jumpers and a thick woolly hat makes for warm hands - which is handy for manipulating things.
I have not had much success with Thinsulite. This seems to make thin dress gloves, OK in reasonable conditions around town or as inner gloves, but little use in real cold, wet or wind.
Edited By Rod Renshaw on 15/02/2021 11:45:27
|Thread: Workshop/Garage Insulation/Space Heating|
We seem to return to this time and again.
The basics, as I understand them, are:
No moisture producing things allowed inside, so no wet bikes, no (or only very small and brief) soldering and brazing flames, and not too many spectators who will persist in breathing out.
Seal against draughts
Effective vapour barrier in walls, floors and ceilings. Vapour barrier must go inside the insulation the air inside a building is almost always wetter than the air outside and we don't want that wet air to saturate the insulation, which would render it nearly useless.
Insulate, to prevent any rapid temperature changes, which will often cause condensation. Foil is not an insulation, it may be a vapour barrier and a draft excluder but insulation must be thicker than that. Though I think there are products which have several layers to provide both the vapour barrier and the insulation.
Heaters which spread the warm air around, for comfort.
Consider the relative costs of fuel for the heaters, before deciding on the heaters, mains gas is much cheaper than electricity per KW hour for example, Though the exhaust must be piped outside, and this example may not be true everywhere.
If you have poor or no insulation, and I agree it can be expensive and difficult, then covers on machines with small black heaters underneath and hand tools in cupboards with similar heaters is effective. The purpose of the heater is to make the machine warmer that its surroundings so any condensation goes elsewhere. So low consumption heaters and no thermostat. You want the protection to be on all the time, at least in the colder months. If a thermostat exists to do anything then it exists to switch on and off. Anyone have any practical experience of the relative merits of plastic covers versus permeable fabric ones? Heaters also have the benefit that the tools feel a little warmer when you are using them on cold days.
Finally, the late great Tom Walshaw, writing as Tubal Cain, responded to this problem by asking his wife to knit him an extra thick sweater and he had no heating at all, and his shop was in Westmorland where they know a thing or two about cold and rain.
And really finally, the Americans say your tools don't rust when you are using them!
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