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Member postings for Kevin F

Here is a list of all the postings Kevin F has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Schrader Tap
01/01/2019 20:23:05

Thanks Chris yes

01/01/2019 17:49:05

Hello , I need to tap an internal thread for a valve cap 8v1 .307 X 32 tpi , now the question is do I need the schrader tap which is expensive or I’ve found a 5/16 x32 tpi tap at a very reasonable price ,would the unff tap be ok

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
28/12/2018 10:02:19

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted by Ian P on 28/12/2018 09:17:54:

Posted by Kevin F on 27/12/2018 22:11:14:

Today I repaired a broken compressor crank , brief description below .

 

Firstly , I removed the bearings , and trued up the crank in my Myford ML7 lathe using a dti and held one end in my 3 jaw chuck and used a fixed steady on the other end , 38faa0a2-6a54-43cf-b670-c91cf4d542e4.jpegI could then face up the crank and drill and bore a hole to locate the spigot on the new piece I make .

I knurled the spigot and pressed it in the crank , I also pinned the spigot , more pics in my album .

 

Edited By Kevin F on 27/12/2018 22:13:05

Edited By Kevin F on 27/12/2018 22:14:04

I wonder what caused the shaft to break?

No indication of diameters involved from the pictures but I'm assuming its 20-25mm or so and that would take a lot of force to break. If the compressor is belt driven and there was a latent defect in the metal then constant bending fatigue would eventually do for it.

I presume you are going to run with a lot less belt tension now (unless its actually driven by a shaft coupling or another method that does not apply radial load).

Ian P

 

 

 

 

 

It’s not my compressor , I was asked if I could repair it , the diameter is 7/8ths and unfortunately the compressor was dropped when it was being unloaded , it was a nice clean break and on investigation the casting looked to be of good quality .

Edited By Kevin F on 28/12/2018 10:03:22

27/12/2018 22:11:14

Today I repaired a broken compressor crank , brief description below .

 

Firstly , I removed the bearings , and trued up the crank in my Myford ML7 lathe using a dti and held one end in my 3 jaw chuck and used a fixed steady on the other end , 38faa0a2-6a54-43cf-b670-c91cf4d542e4.jpegI could then face up the crank and drill and bore a hole to locate the spigot on the new piece I make .

I knurled the spigot and pressed it in the crank , I also pinned the spigot , more pics in my album .

 

Edited By Kevin F on 27/12/2018 22:13:05

Edited By Kevin F on 27/12/2018 22:14:04

Thread: Setting lathe top slide angle accurately.
25/12/2018 22:34:35

Do you still work for Mercedes F1 team , it was always my dream to work in F1 as an engineer , I guess having made parts for F1 power boats is a close second

Posted by Kettrinboy on 25/12/2018 19:36:39:

Don't think anybody's mentioned it yet but whatever way you set a precise angle on the top slide it wont be cut precisely if the tool is not set dead on centre height , if its out either way the angle cut will not be exactly as set.I found that out when I used to have to machine a precise 20 deg angle on water pump impellers for Mercedes F1 engines.

regards Geoff

Thread: Pro’s and cons of owning an horizontal milling machine
09/12/2018 22:55:36

Hello, at the moment I have a small vertical milling machine , I’m looking for something bigger and sturdier than what I have , whilst keeping my eye out for a replacement miller .

I happened to find a nice looking horizontal machine .Ive thought about all the parts I make and there’s only one I can think of where I’d require the use of a vertical mill.

I’m in a position where I don’t have too sell the vertical machine too fund another milling machine , but by the same token I’m a bit tight on space , what are the advantages of a horizontal machine .

Thread: Evenings all
10/11/2018 19:21:47

Welcome John , how’s about making yourself some simple tools , like a pin punch and a center punch , both are relatively easy for a beginner to make and will be useful to have in your workshop .

Thread: Myford Super 7 quick change gearbox fitting
04/11/2018 20:08:24

 

 

 

Posted by Robert Butler on 04/11/2018 19:59:08:

Kevin I have found the jig, the instructions as to how to fit, modify the leadscrew and clasp nut carrier are all contained in the Myford Quick Change Gear Box supplement. I would expect as the shears are not tapped for the gearbox it is an early model ML7 and has the small diameter leadscrew. I have a spare small diameter leadscrew as well

Robert Butler

 

 

Thanks Robert , if I buy the gearbox , I’ll be in touch with you .

Edited By Kevin F on 04/11/2018 20:08:50

04/11/2018 18:42:03

I don’t have the installation instructions , I also checked to see if I have the 1/4bsf tapped holes , alas I don5 hav3 these either , I’m still waiting on th3 seller to inform me as too wether they have the lead screw .

Posted by Swarf, Mostly! on 04/11/2018 13:44:27:

Hi there, Kevin,

Do you have the installation Instructions for the gearbox? If not, I suggest you obtain one and read it. (I believe they are available on-line, maybe from the 'Files' section of the of the Yahoo Myford group. )

Does your lathe have the necessary tapped holes (¼" BSF ) in the front shear of the bed? They are between the two holes that have the push-screws that push the head-stock against the back shear. Some early lathes didn't have them, mine included, so I had to drill and tap them. Beeston Myford used to offer a drilling jig for this purpose, though they denied all knowledge when I phoned until I was connected to the late lamented Malcolm - he found me one. You temporarily remove the push-screws and use their tapped holes to hold the drilling jig.

The gearbox has a third screw at a lower level - that fixed into an existing tapped hole, from memory, one that previously held the left-hand lead-screw bracket.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

04/11/2018 14:00:10

Posted by Nick Hulme on 04/11/2018 12:08:01:

If you have the end covers and lead screw with the gearbox you shouldn't have any issues.

It’s all there apart from the lead screw .

Thanks for the replies .

04/11/2018 12:02:09

I’m toying with the idea of fitting a myford super 7 quick change gearbox to my myford ML7 .

What modifications would I need to make if any ?

Thanks in advance .

Thread: An alternative to parting-off
04/11/2018 11:50:59

 

I never use feed too part off , I always feed in by hand , this way I can ‘ feel ‘ what’s going on during the parting process and if need be I can clear the swarf by winding out the tool a little .

I think the op needs to Take out the backlash before parting off and check how much play he has in the bed and cross slide , also the tool clearance and center height and spindle speed .

Edited By Kevin F on 04/11/2018 11:53:01

Thread: Super 7 countershaft
19/07/2017 22:58:21

I recently ( last weekend ) replaced my Ml7 countershaft and fitted oilite bushes , I encountered the same problem as you ,what I did to over come the problem was to sand the countershaft down using 320 grade wet and dry paper on my other lathe.

Once I spent a bit of time polishing the shaft it fitted perfectly ,no play or sloppiness , the pulleys were still a nice fit too ( before anyone makes a comment ) remembering that they located on the shaft via grub screws , I 'spotted ' the shaft where the grub screws would sit ,ensure they won't turn on the countershaft .

Thread: No respect. :(
17/07/2017 19:39:15

 

 

What a waste , just think of the widower's husband who would have spent hours tinkering with it and enjoying his time  using the machine , I'd be turning in my grave if I knew that would happen to my equipment .

I'm on the look out for a screw cutting gearbox for a Ml7 as well as a fixed steady as per my wanted add and to read of one going to waste is utter madness .

 

 

Edited By Kevin F on 17/07/2017 19:41:34

Thread: Myford ML7 Back Gear
02/07/2017 22:57:20
Posted by Bazyle on 02/07/2017 17:26:58:

You don't remove the socket head screw, you loosen it, slide the 'wedge' in towards the centre to engage the teeth ( see the link given above) then tighten it.

What you have at the moment is just the friction on the mandrel from the oil pulling the bull wheel round while it has no load.

Thanks Bazyle , I've had a look and followed your explanation and I can now select the high speed range on my ML7 , it's simple when you know how , I just couldn't figure it out at the time !

Thanks Jon for taking the time to reply , I've read your link you posted , I've not used the lathe in anger yet ,so we'll await to see how it performs .

02/07/2017 17:16:33

Hi Jon , yep I've removed the socket cap Allen key and the toothed key , I've also lowered the lever which engages the back gear , I've switched on the lathe and it spins faster but as soon as you go and take a cut the 3 jaw chuck stops spinning but the headstock shaft still spins at the same speed .

I've put a cut on in back gear and it takes a sizeable cut no problem ,for info I'm not trying take a big cut at high speed and the material is aluminium 60826 .

02/07/2017 15:08:32

Duplicate post ( sorry )

Edited By Kevin F on 02/07/2017 15:11:21

02/07/2017 15:07:48
Posted by Kevin F on 02/07/2017 14:16:20:

I've just purchased a ML7 and it will only run in back gear ? I've removed the wedge and reinserted the wedge and it doesn't matter , I still can't access the higher speeds , any suggestions ?

 

Edited By Kevin F on 02/07/2017 15:09:38

Edited By Kevin F on 02/07/2017 15:10:31

02/07/2017 14:16:20

I've just purchased and ML7 and it will only run in back gear ? I've removed the wedge and reinserted the wedge and it doesn't matter , I still can access the higher speeds , any suggestions ?

Thread: advice required
08/01/2017 23:10:21

 

 

Posted by john evans 13 on 08/01/2017 20:16:24:

Thank you Kevin. I hoped a myford owner would chip in. I agree with you re resale value as the conquezt will not be worth much. My concern is that the myford is only slightly bigger. Has few speeds to select and is heavy. The ml10 does not however sell like the 7.

Advantages would be a potentially stiffer slide set up. Better spares but not necessarily cheaper.

I would love a southbend but have seen very few within reasonable distance.An atlas is my second choice but the ml 10 mentioned is a good price and in very good order.

 

 

The ML10 centre height is 3.250" and the distance between centres is 13" ( unless it's the long bed 18" ) so it is slightly smaller than the conquest which has a centre height of 90mm and 350mm between centres , I agree you will miss the flexibility of the variable speed motor at first, I owned a warco lathe ( similar spec to the Chester ) which had variable speed which was a great asset to have but As time has gone by I don't miss it at all , the ML10 I have now is not my first Myford lathe ,I had an ML4 before and the ML10 feels so much more ' capable ' a very sturdy machine for its size .

As for the actual physical weight ,I don't have a figure to hand but two adult men can easily handle the lathe ,spares and parts availability is fantastic ,in my opinion I'd go for the ML10 I'm sure you won't be disappointed ,if there's any specific questions just ask .

Edited By Kevin F on 08/01/2017 23:10:53

Edited By Kevin F on 08/01/2017 23:12:26

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