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Member postings for Sam Longley 1

Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
09/10/2018 22:22:44

Mechman 48

I followed some plans I found online to make a fretsaw & it is not particularly good. However, I do see ways of improving the design. I intend to have another go just for the hell of it. I did make one years ago that worked very well but I lost it when I moved. Could you tell me please, what you estimate the stroke of the blade on your Aldi saw to be.I think my version has too long a stroke.

I also wonder how many strokes per minute . Although you may find that difficult to estimate.

Any indication would help


Thread: Marine Plastic
28/09/2018 09:10:26

I made a set for my Squib mainsheet track using Oilon. Has lasted 2 seasons OK. Obviously much lighter load but as I had the oilon anyway I used it.Cheap & easy to machine.Purchased from Plastics Direct online who have a spec sheet there about that & the other materials already mentioned

I also made some oilon bearings for the wheels on our sailing club rescue boat trailer & they get sand & sea water every weekend. carry the weight of a RIB. They have lasted a season with no visible wear whatsoever so I have been asked to do the other 4 trailers this winter.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 28/09/2018 09:15:23

Thread: New Workshop
14/09/2018 08:30:13
Posted by Mark Simpson 1 on 14/09/2018 07:41:05:

Enough headroom for a runway beam (or two in my case). I have a chain block on one and a small electric hoist on the other; both on trolleys. I can lift the bigger lumps around easily and will continue to be able to do so as I get older.

Being 6.6 ft tall I would have liked to make my concrete garage taller. I has a pitched roof & steel trusses to support it. This gives me just under 6.6ft so I placed a 50mm treated timber down under the walls first to raise the roof so my head comes just under the trusses. A flat roof garage can look a little unsightly.

in England one can avoid having to make a planning application if one keeps below 8ft so I made it so that the ridge comes dead on 8ft

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/09/2018 08:36:06

14/09/2018 07:08:53

I think one big one is a mistake. Firstly because it lacks wall space for shelves etc & secondly because it is difficult to divide junk from the good working space.

A double garage split in two does not leave enough space for the machines in a half garage so my solution was to use my double garage (split in two) as a store for tools of a general nature (cut off saw, SDS drills, routers & other wood tools plus a miriad of tools gained over the years) on one side with stuff like pillar drill & grinder in there as well.That has shelving & is really full up with a 2.6 ft space down the middle. On the other side I store stuff that has to be stored that gets infiltrated like bikes, mowers etc that will get put in YOUR space if you are not carefull

Then I bought a concrete garage 10.6 * 22 ft for the actual work area. This I fitted with good insulation in walls & roof & plenty of electrics & it still is a bit small. The work bench is a mobile table in the middle that can be moved if needed to & There are even more tools in a large steel box lockable ) on wheels which has the vice on it That can be wheeled out of the way if I want to get something large in there to work on it down the middle.

The up & over doors are useful for getting large items in & out & the side doors are metal so one does not get doors sticking in the winter & are good for security.. The double doors have extra bolts & Chubb padlocks as security is always an issue.

Thread: What Bandsaw 41/2 to 6 inch
11/09/2018 07:25:01

In 2016 I bought a floor mounted Seally bandsaw for £ 198-00 from our local tool supplier. When I unpacked it, the documentation showed that they had it in stock since 2000, so they were probably glad to shift it. Not sure what the current price is.

I had agro with the wiring because it was nipped in the metal work & shorted out my workshop,( wires went through metal holes with no protection!!) but once I found the problem it has worked well enough & once set up correctly has cut reasonably square & continues to do so without adjustment. However, the largest I have cut to date is 100 * 50 * 4mm steel box section so that may not be a good enough test for the OP. It did cut some square & splay cuts easily enough quite a few times but fairly slowly.

The upright bandsaw mode is pretty much pants though.

Depends on what one wants from them for the price

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 11/09/2018 07:27:23

Thread: how to machine an internal curve
07/09/2018 20:36:11

So far it seems I have to follow the procedure--- bore the hole, cut the inner curve on one side, part off. Turn round & grip in chuck nice & square to the axis, machine other half of round. Undertake any smoothing out where the 2 curves meet to avoid any edges. Suppose some form of "lapping" but not sure quite how yet.

Mount onto a tapered male mandrel & drive up with a special nut that has a female part & square shoulder to make sure it stays square to the axis. Turn the outer groove, using a parting tool & Jason's step method, then need to either grind a piece of tool steel or purchase a circular tipped cutter smaller than the finished size to polish up. Finish off with a round file if there are any chatter marks.

Take it down the yacht club & say " look what i made- only cost me 30 bob in material"     (yes I tell lies as well!!)

Insert somewhere above as appropriate ---"Curse, throw it in the bin, have a cup of coffee & start again"frown

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 07/09/2018 20:43:40

07/09/2018 19:38:03
Posted by David George 1 on 06/09/2018 20:37:40:

Why do you want to make them from stainless as the originals were made from alloy much easier to manufacture and just hard anodise to prevent wear.


I suspect that it is something more than just a piece of aluminium. Bearing in mind that these can be turned out in their 1000s on CNC equipment they should be cheap to produce. However, in spite of quite a few manufacturers making them they still retail (this size) in the £ 12-00 each range. Larger ones quickly reach £ 20-00 plus. They take a lot of load & the ropes make a lot of friction & heat.

That suggests to me that there must be something in the construction that is inflating the cost & preventing competition reducing the price. The material & its treatment perhaps!!!!

I am proposing to use SS as I have this available & it will be strong enough.I really only want to make a dozen so I can say "Because I can" which is probably why a lot of forumites make stuff.

Sam L

07/09/2018 19:10:50
Posted by JasonB on 06/09/2018 20:10:35:

I did try that but was rotating th ectr of the profile and got a weak pointed end but should have revolved the edge of the profile which gives this


Much like the clearance on a trepanning tool but for a tighter radius



that is what I needed I can visualise that much better now. Never thought of drawing it out like that. Obvious when one thinks about it logically. I note that the top is flat on the drawing- is that correct?The bevel on the example below would not be correct - or would it?

Sam L

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 07/09/2018 19:13:59

06/09/2018 18:33:25
Posted by John Haine on 06/09/2018 14:40:36:

As you asked how we would do it, my answer is I'd simply use a Mach3 wizard to generate code to drive my CNC lathe.


The picture is a screen grab of the relevant wizard. I've used this to make similar internal circular fillets on a part made from SS.

And how would you calculate sufficient clearance on the underside & side of the cutter to allow for the internal radius of the cut . or is that not a problem - presumably you still have to make an allowance of some sort as you would with any boring bar. Bearing in mind that the internal hole is 12mm.


Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 18:37:54

06/09/2018 13:24:58

Are router cutters really up to the task? In the past I found that a router cutter has only had to look at a piece of steel to shatter & stainless steel would surely be a step too far!!!

I do have a few but do not want to smash them needlessly

06/09/2018 11:09:23
Posted by JasonB on 06/09/2018 10:09:28:

Sam what is the radius on the internal edge? As John says you may be able to use a roundover bit but my only worry is as you said about a form tool in that the width of cut becomes quite wide and you may get chatter or work hardening on the stainless, OK if it were ali or brass as even router cutters will work on that if held in the tool post.


Thanks I have just followed the link, I had looked on other sites & was looking for the wrong thing as I came up with something very £££'s. I could go with that though, as it is not overly expensive & I can hold the part in the mill.

As an aside what RPM would you recommend as a start on 303 stainless using the one with 6mm radius cutter?


Still would be interested to know how to grind a cutter for a one off though as one would not want to buy a milling cutter for a single job if one did not need to

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 11:10:34

06/09/2018 10:49:33

one of my issues is the clearance on the underside of the cutter. I would use HSS tool steel & can experiment with grinding but the bevels & angles have me a bit stumped.

& to answer query - yes I do have a warco 16 mill but a milling cutter with a round on it might be expensive.

the curve is essentially a full semicircle inside the piece.

I will look for some 303 SS to try it out or I could experiment with some aluminium first as i have a lot of that

I should have put the sizes of the one in the photo

Overall diam is 30mm ,Hole is 12 mm, thickness is 12mm. Outer groove is not a problem as it could possibly be square as the cordage is spliced to it & does not have much friction. The internal part has lots of friction though

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 10:57:18

06/09/2018 08:04:22

I want to make some friction rings in stainless steel similar to the one in the picture ( the second picture shows it in a typical use instead of a pulley) .

I know I can buy them ( very expensive) but that is not the point of my question.

Can someone tell me how they would go about making one please. I have the stainless steel bar. the hole in the middle is no more than 15mm diam( prefer 10-12) so I can drill that. But how do I form the inner curve but what shape is the cutter to get the clearance? If the cutter is made as a full form tool I am pretty certain my Warco 250MV will have too much chatter.

Once I have the inner curve I suppose I can grip the item in a shaped mandrel & then deal with the outer internal curve but once again the curve does pose a problem as any form tool will be rather large. It has to be very smooth to allow ropes to pass through under high load without any damage

Any ideas please


friction ring 1

friction ring 2


Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 08:16:10

Thread: I've been looking at getting a traction engine.
01/08/2018 21:25:13

The WMV250 regularly stops when taking quite light cuts. The switch often has to be pressed up to 6 times to get it to start. The flexing when things such as parting off has to be seen to be believed- yes everything is tight & I try to keep overhang down. My old Drummond M had better rigidity.

When I had my joinery business I had an old Colchester Master for odd jobs & it was in a totally different class. Unfortunately I was unable to keep it when I sold up & moved away.

The mill flexes all over the place & I find it difficult to mill anything of substance. I have watched Jason's videos & with the cutters he uses & speeds he suggests I cannot match anything like the cuts he does. Vibration is excessive. & the whole thing flexes badly.

01/08/2018 18:08:25
Posted by Bill Chugg on 01/08/2018 13:55:51:


Thanks reply

Sorry to have caused confusion but I was wondering what equipment Henry had.

Good to have your reply and thanks

I will try again and ask Henry if he can tell us



Apologies i misread but I can no longer edit the post out

01/08/2018 13:41:41

Bil,l My main hobby is sailing & virtually all summer I am away sailing abroad somewhere so any model engineering I do shares the winter with my other hobby of model RC plane flying. Hence the project has taken some time.

My main work shop is a 22ft * 11 ft purpose built concrete garage & I have Warco WM 250 lathe plus a WM 16 mill with DRO. Both are pretty basic & I kind of regret not getting better quality as it takes so long to do anything due to low power, lack of rigidity, poor electrics etc. I also have a Sealey metal bandsaw plus the usual pillar drill grinder etc in another workshop.

My PYRTE is the first that I have tried & I have made several errors but I have made everything I can up to the boiler which I now need to construct to finish the project. I am doing this last as this is the most expensive & I wanted to make sure that I could do all the cheapest bits first - which I have.

It is still a lot of fun making it & watching it come together though. The designer reckons 140 hours to make & when I have done this I will probably make another. The second could get done in 140 hours because I will not spend time trying to work out what the instructions are trying to say. There are few drawings which is a real pain


Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 01/08/2018 13:43:26

30/07/2018 08:22:35
Posted by Bill Chugg on 29/07/2018 08:57:16:


Try a search on PYRTE traction engine.

You cannot get anything much simpler or cheaper.

1.5 inch scale, 26 inches long, build time approx 100hrs and cost less than £1000.

I would agree with this; apart from the hours to build however!!!!

As a first model I think that it is a great idea because the expense is much lower than many other engines & it allows one to make mistakes (which i have done several- no many- times) without wasting too much money.

The instruction manual is cheap, albeit a bit difficult to understand for a beginner. The final product (I have seen one at one of the model exhibitions) looks fantastic if one's skills are good. You do not need to purchase any castings.

I find it is a great teaching aid & my second one will be much better. I will feel far more confident blowing cash on castings etc for a more detailed example once I know I can get this working. You tube vids show them pulling people along quite easily

Be careful with the Yahoo forum though as there seems to be some sort of virus attached to the forum. Might just be me!!!

If you can get in Ok there are loads of pictures & advice & comments from those that have built them. The designer will answer email questions quickly- or has for me

Thread: Hot Weather and Wall Fastenings
26/07/2018 08:02:17



Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 26/07/2018 08:09:39

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
14/06/2018 13:48:46

Tried threading a shortened spoke for a part on my traction engine. Getting diameter correct for a 2 mm die is difficult so may have been my fault but i do know that the die from the London Tap & Die co was as soft as " !!"forget the technical toolroom term & i never managed it.

Please update on spoke materia, diameter & die used as i have to try again when i return from my travels. I want to end up with 2mm x ( from memory) 40 tpi

As a beginner i find 40 tpi pretty awkward

14/06/2018 13:47:32

Tried threading a shortened spoke for a part on my traction engine. Getting diameter correct for a 2 mm die is difficult so may have been my fault but i do know that the die from the London Tap & Die co was as soft as " !!"forget the technical toolroom term & i never managed it.

Please update on spoke materia, diameter & die used as i have to try again when i return from my travels. I want to end up with 2mm x ( from memory) 40 tpi

As a beginner i find 40 tpi pretty awkward

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