Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Machine a rectangle from a bar|
Just done it as suggested in posts 1 & 2 & have cut 3 faces. I realised that I do not need the 4Th face as this sits on top & does not reference anything. Being round it will sit in the hand better when removed for adjusting or checking the drill tip.I do not have it perfectly parallel on the 2 sides, but close enough for it all to work OK.
A bit more practice & I will have it nailed I am sure. It did not take long & I have 3 metres of the bar stock to play with before I go to steel.
It is now small enough to fit in the lathe chuck jaws & I am wondering if that would true the 2 sides up better ( more parallel) with just a smidgeon taken off one of the opposing faces.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 03/01/2022 13:49:24
Thankyou to you all for those explanations
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 03/01/2022 11:45:09
I have a piece of round aluminium turned just under 2 inches diam & 2.5 inches long
I am making a 4 facet drill sharpener ( Gadget builder) & want to get this to a rectanglular section 1.2 inches wide * as much as practical. Dims not critical & 2 corners when it is laid flat could actually be slightly rounded. However, all side must be parallel & square to each other, as I intend to bore the piece for a 1 inch parallel Er 32 collet holder (on order from RDG, comp with collet set & MT collet holder, as new year prezzie to self) with the hole at a pre determined height which has to be true in all respects for drill sharpening.
It will not fit in that lathe as 47mm diam will not fit across the teeth ( teeth not deep enough) so I have to mill the faces held in the vice.
So far I have milled one face 1.2 inches wide & it seems to have parallel sides so my mill is tramming Ok. I used a 50mm shell mill obtained from bangood about which there are several you tube vids & mention on this forum.( I just wish I could recall what better teeth to buy)- Link please!!!!
I now have to cut 3 more faces & my question is this:-
Do I now treat the first face, as the face & put it to the back of the vice & cut a face edge at 90 degrees (as a carpenter would) or do I turn it 180 degrees & cut the opposite face then cut the 2 opposing faces last?
Is there a preferred order to do this?
I would like to know because once I have done this I will go on to make a 4 sided collet block & that will need a high degree of accuracy
After that I have just purloined a piece of hexagonal brass 50mm across * 75mm long, which might make temporary 6 sided block & the machining of that should just be a process of skimming (& boring) provided I can get it right. Good machining practice at least
|Thread: roller bearing balls|
There was me expecting to see "Rollers" not balls as in" Roller bearings" as suggested by the somewhat confusing title.
Did not expect to see balls in a roller bearing
However, as a beginner I am sure someone will come along to slap egg in my face
But happy new year to one & all just the same
I will get my coat
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 01/01/2022 11:35:51
|Thread: Basic DRO|
I bought a machine DRO for my mill at the Alexander palace some years ago when there was an offer being made. Unfortunately I could only justify a 2 axis one - a mistake, I should have bought 3 axis.
18 months ago I saw a you tube article of a DRO at just over half the current price of the Machine DRO which I bought for my Warco lathe. I cannot immediately recall the make (Sino I think but do not quote) It is OK & has X & Y fuctions that I need, but the quality of the display is nowhere as good as the Machine DRO. I cannot work out how to get it calibrated to read accurately either, so I have problems getting accurate diameters.
So if I was recommending one for a milling machine I would say machine DRO every time. The instructions are mile easier to understand as well & the readout is spot on accurate straight out of the box.
If you are buying a cheaper model for a lathe then you get what you pay for
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 29/12/2021 09:48:57
|Thread: Speed Camera Flashes?|
I had a speeding ticket when I was 27 years old. It was with a radar gun & it was being demonstrated to a group of about 12 officials. Unfortunately I had never seen one so had no idea what it was. If i had known i would have braked, because I saw it well in advance before the policeman raised it.
I felt so embarrassed that I vowed never to get another speeding ticket. At 74 I have managed so far. When I was working, I averaged 20K miles per annum. With my own business & lots of meetings to get to, many in London, it can be a rush to be on time. The answer is simple. Leave on time.
My current Renault is speed restricted to 70MPH & I quite like that as I can concentrate on driving. I hate the M25 where the speed restrictions vary so much & one has to be on the ball to be sure at what speed one can legally travel. It is easy to miss the signs, if behind a high sided lorry in busy traffic. I can understand how some get caught.
In the country & towns there really is no excuse for speeding. That being said I would still overtake as many as overtook me. Not so much now though, as I really have no need.
|Thread: Motor Grinder Riser Casting|
Interesting link. I shall read with interest. It is amazing what is out there if only one can find it
Trouble with that is that if I do find that I have bitten off more than I can chew it is a lot of dosh down the drain. I feel that by following the host of youtube items & the book (will buy that shortly) I would be in with a chance. The column did worry me though &I did not realise it came machined. If that is really the case then i reckon that i am in with a shout.
It would be handy If Hemmingway would sell parts in stages so that one could see how one was getting on & if one should proceed further. Do they do that?
Useful Pictures to get the grey cells going. Thankyou
I want to make a tool & cutter grinding set up. I have bought a compound table from ARC ( surprisingly cheaply I might add) & although I have built a Tinker I am not totally happy. I want something better. To do a quorn would be an expensive risk & the work to the vertical post may be a bit beyond my abilities. My Tinker was made from a limited set of details no dimensions or instructions & no castings, so I was on the back foot from the start
I want a grinder & motor on a rise & fall post like the quorn but with a smooth post & a screw thread to do the adjusting.
What I need would be a casting to fit the post, carry the grinder spindle & the motor backplate
Does anyone know of anything out there? Or are there any drawings for something that I can fabricate? I feel quite capable but really need detailed drawings. Plus, of course, a casting would be preferable to a welded assembly, But not impossible.
|Thread: 80th birthday|
Save time on the final journey, but would the funeral parlour give a discount for being half way there if the end came at 3,000 feet up
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 20/11/2021 08:01:31
At 80 years of age the law of averages does not bode well. Ask for a nice young mistress ( one that can wash undies would be handy) & go out with a bang
|Thread: china/India - Cop 26|
|Thread: SMR's a conundrum.|
Yes, they are & when one looks at those tubes- as do all the others who I have taken on that trip- I cannot help wondering if this climate carp is worth bothering with. Especially when we have submarines circling the globe, each loaded with enough destructive power to ruin the atmosphere far beyond anything a couple of windmills can solve.
To avoid breaching forum rules & becoming political, I would not mention anywhere in particular. However, one does have to wonder what is the greater threat & where we should really be focussing our minds.
Funny you should mention submarines. There is a nuclear submarine in the Cherbourg maritime museum. It is an excellent day out by the way.The Titanic visited there on its fatal trip
Before visitors could tour the sub, which is in dry dock, they removed the reactor. & Dumped it on the dock wall
It was left there for several years before going to Flamevile for destruction. The surprising thing about it was that its size was approx 1Metre *1Metre *1Metre. So a reactor that powered a sub for circa 20 years & with enough power to keep the crew under water for months on end; so they can launch 14 nuclear missiles into space; could easily power a small town for a while & sit in a bloke's shed somewhere. Just need a sheet of lead for cladding and a steam generator, a couple of wires & away we go. Oh! and a cold water tank on top for cooling- but hook that up to the district heating system & you get buy one get one free.
So joking aside, It cannot be that difficult to build these mini reactors & Rolls Royce should be applauded for giving it a go. It should also be a terrific export item for the UK -- if only the home market allows it to develope in the interim
So whilst one is suggesting the myth is currently being destroyed- perhaps it is the NYMBY's along with the media that is doing the destroying & not those that need the electric.- Or a district heating system
Going back to the sub- It is really interesting until one gets to the missile tubes & then one's mind starts to focus
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 10/11/2021 07:51:23
|Thread: Feed speed|
Thanks for the offer but personally I would rather call an end to it. I have lots of info to digest & I believe that having studied the above i will be able to move forward Ok. I really need to spend more time. My boat is being lifted out of the water next week, so I will have that time to experiment.
But I would like to thank everyone for their input
This all started out as a simple enquiry about feed speeds & now I feel that I am being put on trial.
First the machine came with all the wheels in the tin box. It was a long time ago & I am sure of that & I think that the bushes were in a couple of the wheels. If I remember rightly, the adjustable spindles, that slide up & down,were not fitted- . But my memory has faded over 9 years so I may be wrong. I do know that I had to make some spacers for when there is a situation where one does not need a gear wheel so as to fill the void. I also know that the retaining washer still jumps out of the spindle because it does not necessarily sit vertically if the square end of the spindle finishes at an angle when tightened. That lets the gear wheel come off.
But while we are at it - some explanation, before I get slung in jail
I bought the machine through my business before I closed down to make use of the VAT & depretiation tax advantages etc. I intended to keep it for my own use after I retired. So I bought it before I needed it. But I did not use it for a long while as I went sailing for a couple of years when I did sell up. So it was out of warranty & i did not want the hassle of uninstalling a lathe that I had built up onto catnic lintols ( So its working height is 9 inches higher than the norm) & would need lifting down etc.
When I did get to use it, the on off switch often had to be pressed lots of times before the lathe would start- Up to 6 presses of the on/off button- If I pressed the green button & nothing happened & did not press stop, it sometimes engaged a little while later & started running, without warning- With my hand in the b...dy thing.
My solution was to remove the back cover place a bit of wood against an electrical part that seems to engage on a rail of some sort. Then refit the cover, forcing the wood against the part & forcing it onto the rail. Now it works first go 95% of the time & if not, I invariably get it to go second push. In any event I have learned the hard way to make sure I turn it off if it does not start.
As for machining I purchased the QCTP. I do use this for boring, but only that. It is not much use for anything heavy due to deflection. I donot use the topslide because when parting off one can see it dip up to 6mm if the tool catches.-Yes I know about gib strips- I have had to remove the topslide & mount the 4 way tool post on a block on the cross slide so as to get rigidity. At least I can now part off easily with an eclipse blade. This is really what prompted me to look at powering the feed again so I can get a nice even cut when parting off. But one should be able to mount the tool holder on the topslide & still part off OK
So as far as I am concerned there could not have been much quality control. But I had the machine to long before I actually used it to complain to Warco
I do not have a lot of faith in the WM16 mill either. But that is another subject.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/11/2021 22:32:28
Please give me a bit more sense than that. I am aware of the screw & i used a large allen key to tension it.
All the change wheels were in a tin box & NOT fitted. They could not have been as supplied.
I have been out in the workshop, Put the washers in - The rightway round!!!
The gear wheels never fitted the shafts they were so undersized it was a joke. I drilled with a drill bit borrowed from an engineering shop that was very slightly under 14mm, then reamed to get them to fit. I even had to file 2 of the key ways.
I used the paper to set up. When done the drive forced the arm with the change wheels out of mesh & it means I have to push it up very hard & really tighten it beyond what one might expect. But I cannot see where there is any stiffness. The slide is not overly stiff on the bed,
As for noise - Still much noiser than yours, but bearable if I stick below 650 RPM above that & the arm jumps out of gear. Only leave it set up if I intend to use it otherwise I will just disengage.Mine is nearly as noisy as yours without the change wheels engaged.
I did not grease the wheels but used chainsaw oil as it is sticky & does not fly out. I also use it as a cutting fluid & it works OK & is cheap.
So I will see how it goes
But thanks for your help, You have spent too much time on it all ready but it is much appreciated
I bought the lathe new
I will check that there is room for the washers & still fit the "circlips" ( for want of a better term) without them flying out
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