Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Nut screws washer and bolts|
If one is using a pair of nuts as a locking nut & one of the nuts is a half nut which nut goes on first?
Does the half nut go on first with the full nut on last or is it the other way round?
I have a small model which will have that & this thread has me wondering. I did read about it years ago ( I think that it was in RCME mag) but cannot recall the correct answer.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 25/10/2018 09:46:52
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
But, I bet if I asked you what the DJ had said 50 seconds earlier you possibly could not remember. Likewise if I asked you what the last but one record was you would not know. In other words you were not listening to it. You were ( possibly, I do not know about you in particular) just hearing a warbling sound in your ears. Sometimes a song that you might like triggers ones hearing senses for a minute or two but then one switches off. In many cases it is just useless rubbish. So it begs the question WHY????
When I did work in an open plan office I dd zone into some chatter because in a "team" one needed to know what was going on around one. Apart from that a bit of banter added to the atmosphere. But that was more relevant to one's interest at the particular moment.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/10/2018 11:44:06
Loud speakers--- The work of the devil
One of the things I like about my shed is to get away from the wife's b..dy radio. Why on earth do people feel the need to have endless racket going in the background with intermittent twaddle spoken every so often. My wife will be in one room with the radio in another. She cannot possible hear, properly, what is being transmitted, but insists on having it on.
It is like the TV. Sometimes we will scroll through the menu & there is nothing of interest. My immediate move is to turn it off. She then moans & turns it on. But "why" i say. "Well we have to have something"- "No!! we don't"
As I write this she has just got up. What has she done? turned the radio on to be told by some twat that there is " the rythm of the night" ( whatever that is) & a traffic jam on the A13-- but we are not going anywhere today so who cares !!!!
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/10/2018 08:29:16
Thanks George . That is very helpful. Might even change my plan for the oscillation of the blade.Lot more compact. Have to do some sketches.
|Thread: Replacement bellows needed|
I use "Hi Load" DPC left over from a building job. A 50 metre roll of 225mm wide is not that expensive & you can always use it as a starter for a new workshop !!!!!!!!!
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
It is just that the existing design has an eccentric driven off a pulley that drives a block up and down 2 posts. I want to drive the eccentric straight off the motor shaft & then have a small shaft running through the block similar to the shaft that drives a steam engine slide valve. Then I will not have the weight of the block etc reciprocating. Hopefully this will reduce vibration. But first i think that the actual stroke can be a lot less than I have, as I only want to cut thin material- up to 3mm. I have a bandsaw for thicker material.
I need to know if the motor is fast enough so that i can eliminate the pulley & belt etc . I can easily slow the motor with a resistor but not speed it up.
It cannot be rocket science & more fun than forking out £ 60-00
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 10/10/2018 11:29:18
I followed some plans I found online to make a fretsaw & it is not particularly good. However, I do see ways of improving the design. I intend to have another go just for the hell of it. I did make one years ago that worked very well but I lost it when I moved. Could you tell me please, what you estimate the stroke of the blade on your Aldi saw to be.I think my version has too long a stroke.
I also wonder how many strokes per minute . Although you may find that difficult to estimate.
Any indication would help
|Thread: Marine Plastic|
I made a set for my Squib mainsheet track using Oilon. Has lasted 2 seasons OK. Obviously much lighter load but as I had the oilon anyway I used it.Cheap & easy to machine.Purchased from Plastics Direct online who have a spec sheet there about that & the other materials already mentioned
I also made some oilon bearings for the wheels on our sailing club rescue boat trailer & they get sand & sea water every weekend. carry the weight of a RIB. They have lasted a season with no visible wear whatsoever so I have been asked to do the other 4 trailers this winter.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 28/09/2018 09:15:23
|Thread: New Workshop|
Being 6.6 ft tall I would have liked to make my concrete garage taller. I has a pitched roof & steel trusses to support it. This gives me just under 6.6ft so I placed a 50mm treated timber down under the walls first to raise the roof so my head comes just under the trusses. A flat roof garage can look a little unsightly.
in England one can avoid having to make a planning application if one keeps below 8ft so I made it so that the ridge comes dead on 8ft
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/09/2018 08:36:06
I think one big one is a mistake. Firstly because it lacks wall space for shelves etc & secondly because it is difficult to divide junk from the good working space.
A double garage split in two does not leave enough space for the machines in a half garage so my solution was to use my double garage (split in two) as a store for tools of a general nature (cut off saw, SDS drills, routers & other wood tools plus a miriad of tools gained over the years) on one side with stuff like pillar drill & grinder in there as well.That has shelving & is really full up with a 2.6 ft space down the middle. On the other side I store stuff that has to be stored that gets infiltrated like bikes, mowers etc that will get put in YOUR space if you are not carefull
Then I bought a concrete garage 10.6 * 22 ft for the actual work area. This I fitted with good insulation in walls & roof & plenty of electrics & it still is a bit small. The work bench is a mobile table in the middle that can be moved if needed to & There are even more tools in a large steel box lockable ) on wheels which has the vice on it That can be wheeled out of the way if I want to get something large in there to work on it down the middle.
The up & over doors are useful for getting large items in & out & the side doors are metal so one does not get doors sticking in the winter & are good for security.. The double doors have extra bolts & Chubb padlocks as security is always an issue.
|Thread: What Bandsaw 41/2 to 6 inch|
In 2016 I bought a floor mounted Seally bandsaw for £ 198-00 from our local tool supplier. When I unpacked it, the documentation showed that they had it in stock since 2000, so they were probably glad to shift it. Not sure what the current price is.
I had agro with the wiring because it was nipped in the metal work & shorted out my workshop,( wires went through metal holes with no protection!!) but once I found the problem it has worked well enough & once set up correctly has cut reasonably square & continues to do so without adjustment. However, the largest I have cut to date is 100 * 50 * 4mm steel box section so that may not be a good enough test for the OP. It did cut some square & splay cuts easily enough quite a few times but fairly slowly.
The upright bandsaw mode is pretty much pants though.
Depends on what one wants from them for the price
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 11/09/2018 07:27:23
|Thread: how to machine an internal curve|
So far it seems I have to follow the procedure--- bore the hole, cut the inner curve on one side, part off. Turn round & grip in chuck nice & square to the axis, machine other half of round. Undertake any smoothing out where the 2 curves meet to avoid any edges. Suppose some form of "lapping" but not sure quite how yet.
Mount onto a tapered male mandrel & drive up with a special nut that has a female part & square shoulder to make sure it stays square to the axis. Turn the outer groove, using a parting tool & Jason's step method, then need to either grind a piece of tool steel or purchase a circular tipped cutter smaller than the finished size to polish up. Finish off with a round file if there are any chatter marks.
Take it down the yacht club & say " look what i made- only cost me 30 bob in material" (yes I tell lies as well!!)
Insert somewhere above as appropriate ---"Curse, throw it in the bin, have a cup of coffee & start again"
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 07/09/2018 20:43:40
I suspect that it is something more than just a piece of aluminium. Bearing in mind that these can be turned out in their 1000s on CNC equipment they should be cheap to produce. However, in spite of quite a few manufacturers making them they still retail (this size) in the £ 12-00 each range. Larger ones quickly reach £ 20-00 plus. They take a lot of load & the ropes make a lot of friction & heat.
That suggests to me that there must be something in the construction that is inflating the cost & preventing competition reducing the price. The material & its treatment perhaps!!!!
I am proposing to use SS as I have this available & it will be strong enough.I really only want to make a dozen so I can say "Because I can" which is probably why a lot of forumites make stuff.
that is what I needed I can visualise that much better now. Never thought of drawing it out like that. Obvious when one thinks about it logically. I note that the top is flat on the drawing- is that correct?The bevel on the example below would not be correct - or would it?
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 07/09/2018 19:13:59
And how would you calculate sufficient clearance on the underside & side of the cutter to allow for the internal radius of the cut . or is that not a problem - presumably you still have to make an allowance of some sort as you would with any boring bar. Bearing in mind that the internal hole is 12mm.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 18:37:54
Are router cutters really up to the task? In the past I found that a router cutter has only had to look at a piece of steel to shatter & stainless steel would surely be a step too far!!!
I do have a few but do not want to smash them needlessly
Thanks I have just followed the link, I had looked on other sites & was looking for the wrong thing as I came up with something very £££'s. I could go with that though, as it is not overly expensive & I can hold the part in the mill.
As an aside what RPM would you recommend as a start on 303 stainless using the one with 6mm radius cutter?
Still would be interested to know how to grind a cutter for a one off though as one would not want to buy a milling cutter for a single job if one did not need to
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 11:10:34
one of my issues is the clearance on the underside of the cutter. I would use HSS tool steel & can experiment with grinding but the bevels & angles have me a bit stumped.
& to answer query - yes I do have a warco 16 mill but a milling cutter with a round on it might be expensive.
the curve is essentially a full semicircle inside the piece.
I will look for some 303 SS to try it out or I could experiment with some aluminium first as i have a lot of that
I should have put the sizes of the one in the photo
Overall diam is 30mm ,Hole is 12 mm, thickness is 12mm. Outer groove is not a problem as it could possibly be square as the cordage is spliced to it & does not have much friction. The internal part has lots of friction though
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 10:57:18
I want to make some friction rings in stainless steel similar to the one in the picture ( the second picture shows it in a typical use instead of a pulley) .
I know I can buy them ( very expensive) but that is not the point of my question.
Can someone tell me how they would go about making one please. I have the stainless steel bar. the hole in the middle is no more than 15mm diam( prefer 10-12) so I can drill that. But how do I form the inner curve but what shape is the cutter to get the clearance? If the cutter is made as a full form tool I am pretty certain my Warco 250MV will have too much chatter.
Once I have the inner curve I suppose I can grip the item in a shaped mandrel & then deal with the outer internal curve but once again the curve does pose a problem as any form tool will be rather large. It has to be very smooth to allow ropes to pass through under high load without any damage
Any ideas please
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 08:16:10
|Thread: I've been looking at getting a traction engine.|
The WMV250 regularly stops when taking quite light cuts. The switch often has to be pressed up to 6 times to get it to start. The flexing when things such as parting off has to be seen to be believed- yes everything is tight & I try to keep overhang down. My old Drummond M had better rigidity.
When I had my joinery business I had an old Colchester Master for odd jobs & it was in a totally different class. Unfortunately I was unable to keep it when I sold up & moved away.
The mill flexes all over the place & I find it difficult to mill anything of substance. I have watched Jason's videos & with the cutters he uses & speeds he suggests I cannot match anything like the cuts he does. Vibration is excessive. & the whole thing flexes badly.
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