Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
My first thought was that it was a key for unlocking a chastity belt
How much tension are you expecting to put on that dress??
Are you selling her? does the poor bloke know what he is buying?
Have you made a tool for safely letting it all out or will they press a button & it all goes with a massive twang!!!!?
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 01/11/2018 18:31:11
|Thread: Fluctuating battery voltage|
If the batteries are a bit low, ie after a cruise where I have used electric but not charged much with the engine then the charger will initially charge at 14.4 volts & a higher amperage, then when the fan shuts off the voltage drops to 13.7 as it showed in this case. Suggesting the batteries were fairly full anyway & charger was on stage 2 of the cycle.
Wires were the size recommended in the instructions when I installed the charger ( forget the size). Length is approx 2ft 6 ins to domestic & 3 ft 3 ins to starter.
Unfortunately I cannot keep it plugged in full time, but I do visit the boat every few days, so it gets a couple of hours a week all winter.
Yes, the charger has 2 outputs. The starter battery is a red flash 35 amp battery. That is small for a 20Hp diesel but as the engine usually starts on the touch of the button it is OK. I also have a switch to link all 3 batteries in an emergency if needed.
I note the point about charger output & did think of this. When i noticed this voltage issue I flicked the switch to link all 3 batteries to see what happened. It made no difference to the charge rate or to the voltage reading so I turned the switch off again.I wondered if the increase in voltage was because the domestics were drawing some power off the starter battery. ie through a faulty voltage relay on the engine alternator charging side.
However, reading from Simon's link it seems that it is normal for voltage to rise at restive state. Something that I had not noticed before. At least not to such a large extent.
It was the large initial drop from 13.7 to 12.7 in less than 5 mins that had me worried & I still do not understand why so much
Hi, I have a query re 12 V batteries on my boat & some of the caravaners/motorhomers on the forum may be able to comment as they also have domestic battery banks
I have a pair of 12 v 90A AGM batteries linked together as my domestic bank. I have a Dolphin 15 A triple stage charger that charges both starter & domestic batteries. It runs off shore power. If it is giving out max charge the cooling fan inside it goes on. If the fan does not go on I know that the batteries are not particularly low.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 25/10/2018 22:27:26
|Thread: Nut screws washer and bolts|
If one is using a pair of nuts as a locking nut & one of the nuts is a half nut which nut goes on first?
Does the half nut go on first with the full nut on last or is it the other way round?
I have a small model which will have that & this thread has me wondering. I did read about it years ago ( I think that it was in RCME mag) but cannot recall the correct answer.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 25/10/2018 09:46:52
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
But, I bet if I asked you what the DJ had said 50 seconds earlier you possibly could not remember. Likewise if I asked you what the last but one record was you would not know. In other words you were not listening to it. You were ( possibly, I do not know about you in particular) just hearing a warbling sound in your ears. Sometimes a song that you might like triggers ones hearing senses for a minute or two but then one switches off. In many cases it is just useless rubbish. So it begs the question WHY????
When I did work in an open plan office I dd zone into some chatter because in a "team" one needed to know what was going on around one. Apart from that a bit of banter added to the atmosphere. But that was more relevant to one's interest at the particular moment.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/10/2018 11:44:06
Loud speakers--- The work of the devil
One of the things I like about my shed is to get away from the wife's b..dy radio. Why on earth do people feel the need to have endless racket going in the background with intermittent twaddle spoken every so often. My wife will be in one room with the radio in another. She cannot possible hear, properly, what is being transmitted, but insists on having it on.
It is like the TV. Sometimes we will scroll through the menu & there is nothing of interest. My immediate move is to turn it off. She then moans & turns it on. But "why" i say. "Well we have to have something"- "No!! we don't"
As I write this she has just got up. What has she done? turned the radio on to be told by some twat that there is " the rythm of the night" ( whatever that is) & a traffic jam on the A13-- but we are not going anywhere today so who cares !!!!
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/10/2018 08:29:16
Thanks George . That is very helpful. Might even change my plan for the oscillation of the blade.Lot more compact. Have to do some sketches.
|Thread: Replacement bellows needed|
I use "Hi Load" DPC left over from a building job. A 50 metre roll of 225mm wide is not that expensive & you can always use it as a starter for a new workshop !!!!!!!!!
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
It is just that the existing design has an eccentric driven off a pulley that drives a block up and down 2 posts. I want to drive the eccentric straight off the motor shaft & then have a small shaft running through the block similar to the shaft that drives a steam engine slide valve. Then I will not have the weight of the block etc reciprocating. Hopefully this will reduce vibration. But first i think that the actual stroke can be a lot less than I have, as I only want to cut thin material- up to 3mm. I have a bandsaw for thicker material.
I need to know if the motor is fast enough so that i can eliminate the pulley & belt etc . I can easily slow the motor with a resistor but not speed it up.
It cannot be rocket science & more fun than forking out £ 60-00
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 10/10/2018 11:29:18
I followed some plans I found online to make a fretsaw & it is not particularly good. However, I do see ways of improving the design. I intend to have another go just for the hell of it. I did make one years ago that worked very well but I lost it when I moved. Could you tell me please, what you estimate the stroke of the blade on your Aldi saw to be.I think my version has too long a stroke.
I also wonder how many strokes per minute . Although you may find that difficult to estimate.
Any indication would help
|Thread: Marine Plastic|
I made a set for my Squib mainsheet track using Oilon. Has lasted 2 seasons OK. Obviously much lighter load but as I had the oilon anyway I used it.Cheap & easy to machine.Purchased from Plastics Direct online who have a spec sheet there about that & the other materials already mentioned
I also made some oilon bearings for the wheels on our sailing club rescue boat trailer & they get sand & sea water every weekend. carry the weight of a RIB. They have lasted a season with no visible wear whatsoever so I have been asked to do the other 4 trailers this winter.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 28/09/2018 09:15:23
|Thread: New Workshop|
Being 6.6 ft tall I would have liked to make my concrete garage taller. I has a pitched roof & steel trusses to support it. This gives me just under 6.6ft so I placed a 50mm treated timber down under the walls first to raise the roof so my head comes just under the trusses. A flat roof garage can look a little unsightly.
in England one can avoid having to make a planning application if one keeps below 8ft so I made it so that the ridge comes dead on 8ft
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/09/2018 08:36:06
I think one big one is a mistake. Firstly because it lacks wall space for shelves etc & secondly because it is difficult to divide junk from the good working space.
A double garage split in two does not leave enough space for the machines in a half garage so my solution was to use my double garage (split in two) as a store for tools of a general nature (cut off saw, SDS drills, routers & other wood tools plus a miriad of tools gained over the years) on one side with stuff like pillar drill & grinder in there as well.That has shelving & is really full up with a 2.6 ft space down the middle. On the other side I store stuff that has to be stored that gets infiltrated like bikes, mowers etc that will get put in YOUR space if you are not carefull
Then I bought a concrete garage 10.6 * 22 ft for the actual work area. This I fitted with good insulation in walls & roof & plenty of electrics & it still is a bit small. The work bench is a mobile table in the middle that can be moved if needed to & There are even more tools in a large steel box lockable ) on wheels which has the vice on it That can be wheeled out of the way if I want to get something large in there to work on it down the middle.
The up & over doors are useful for getting large items in & out & the side doors are metal so one does not get doors sticking in the winter & are good for security.. The double doors have extra bolts & Chubb padlocks as security is always an issue.
|Thread: What Bandsaw 41/2 to 6 inch|
In 2016 I bought a floor mounted Seally bandsaw for £ 198-00 from our local tool supplier. When I unpacked it, the documentation showed that they had it in stock since 2000, so they were probably glad to shift it. Not sure what the current price is.
I had agro with the wiring because it was nipped in the metal work & shorted out my workshop,( wires went through metal holes with no protection!!) but once I found the problem it has worked well enough & once set up correctly has cut reasonably square & continues to do so without adjustment. However, the largest I have cut to date is 100 * 50 * 4mm steel box section so that may not be a good enough test for the OP. It did cut some square & splay cuts easily enough quite a few times but fairly slowly.
The upright bandsaw mode is pretty much pants though.
Depends on what one wants from them for the price
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 11/09/2018 07:27:23
|Thread: how to machine an internal curve|
So far it seems I have to follow the procedure--- bore the hole, cut the inner curve on one side, part off. Turn round & grip in chuck nice & square to the axis, machine other half of round. Undertake any smoothing out where the 2 curves meet to avoid any edges. Suppose some form of "lapping" but not sure quite how yet.
Mount onto a tapered male mandrel & drive up with a special nut that has a female part & square shoulder to make sure it stays square to the axis. Turn the outer groove, using a parting tool & Jason's step method, then need to either grind a piece of tool steel or purchase a circular tipped cutter smaller than the finished size to polish up. Finish off with a round file if there are any chatter marks.
Take it down the yacht club & say " look what i made- only cost me 30 bob in material" (yes I tell lies as well!!)
Insert somewhere above as appropriate ---"Curse, throw it in the bin, have a cup of coffee & start again"
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 07/09/2018 20:43:40
I suspect that it is something more than just a piece of aluminium. Bearing in mind that these can be turned out in their 1000s on CNC equipment they should be cheap to produce. However, in spite of quite a few manufacturers making them they still retail (this size) in the £ 12-00 each range. Larger ones quickly reach £ 20-00 plus. They take a lot of load & the ropes make a lot of friction & heat.
That suggests to me that there must be something in the construction that is inflating the cost & preventing competition reducing the price. The material & its treatment perhaps!!!!
I am proposing to use SS as I have this available & it will be strong enough.I really only want to make a dozen so I can say "Because I can" which is probably why a lot of forumites make stuff.
that is what I needed I can visualise that much better now. Never thought of drawing it out like that. Obvious when one thinks about it logically. I note that the top is flat on the drawing- is that correct?The bevel on the example below would not be correct - or would it?
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 07/09/2018 19:13:59
And how would you calculate sufficient clearance on the underside & side of the cutter to allow for the internal radius of the cut . or is that not a problem - presumably you still have to make an allowance of some sort as you would with any boring bar. Bearing in mind that the internal hole is 12mm.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/09/2018 18:37:54
Are router cutters really up to the task? In the past I found that a router cutter has only had to look at a piece of steel to shatter & stainless steel would surely be a step too far!!!
I do have a few but do not want to smash them needlessly
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