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Member postings for Sam Longley 1

Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Further to Bill Bryson......
08/02/2016 18:50:54

My wife's uncle Claud was at Bletchley as a radio operator. In part of his role he was assigned to various spies & was able to tell when one had been compromised by the change in style of morse code. The Germans would try to deceive us by carrying on the routine & giving false messages. We would realise & play the same game.

He was a radio ham & known all over the world. One small room of his house was dedicated to his home built gear. He loved doing morse ( the hobby was gradually dying as it gave over to speech) The speed at which he could send & receive morse had to be seen to be believed

Many years later he was reading about radio opps at Bletchley & read an article that 9 operators were so good that they could receive & decode 2 incoming morse signals at once ( The Nazis used to send morse over morse to confuse us). He announced that he was one of the nine & had no idea that only 9 could do it & although working there throughout the war he did not know any of them

He was a really lovely old man and when he would have been 100 ( died some years earlier) the whole family had a re union in his memory

His call sign was "George 2 Dog Peter Queen."

I have a yacht & the electric autopilot is nicknamed George. I have a second one which is an Aeries wind steering autopilot. I could not call it George 2 so it is nicknamed "Uncle Claud" ( from George 2 etc)

When the going gets rough & the electric autopilot gets overpowered "Uncle Claud" always gets me home

Thread: Cutting with a large tap
04/02/2016 18:52:27
nPosted by Tony Pratt 1 on 04/02/2016 18:02:09:
Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 04/02/2016 17:03:21:

I used to watch heating engineers, assembling school heating systems, putting threads on 1.5 & 2 inch steel pipe & they did not seem to have any trouble. The more senior in years among us may well remember the heating pipes running round changing rooms & classrooms with reducers at the old CI radiators. Not allowed now for fear of scalding kids

So how come a tap is harder to use than a die?

How long was the 'die stock' arm?

Tony

Not as long as one might suspect. If you google " rigid pipe threaders" you will see that the head is not particularly big & handle is about 20 inches long.not very long when one has 20 threads a day to cut even in modern times. I have to admit when i last watched a chap he had a sort of electric drill with die at right angles to cl of normal drill drive

04/02/2016 17:03:21

I used to watch heating engineers, assembling school heating systems, putting threads on 1.5 & 2 inch steel pipe & they did not seem to have any trouble. The more senior in years among us may well remember the heating pipes running round changing rooms & classrooms with reducers at the old CI radiators. Not allowed now for fear of scalding kids

So how come a tap is harder to use than a die?

Thread: Universal Coupling
01/02/2016 18:29:26

Model power boat propeller shaft/engine couplings

Thread: Warco WM16
01/02/2016 18:18:13

I am due to get delivery of my M16 next week. Knowing my luck, i am bound to make a mistake. So what advice do you give to prevent your problem. How, for instance, can i check & adjust meshing of the gears

Is it easy to replace? What should I look for when it all arrives. Have I bought a pup?

Any advice please

Thread: Trubble at Matelot Mill (VFD drive issues?)
30/01/2016 10:38:44
Posted by Clive Hartland on 30/01/2016 09:16:22:

I understand that they have 2 ring mains on a warship. Also separate generating stations for other purposes.

One would have thought so, but on the BBC programme it indicated the section of the ship where both generators are fitted suggesting that they are side by side

I believe the Russians have now got a DVD of it

 

Knowing our lot, the backup is probably an Ipad- at least they work!!!

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 30/01/2016 10:40:02

30/01/2016 07:19:44

Watching the item on BBC news they showed a room full of computer screens

I could not help thinking that a hit from one 6 inch shell would make the entire ship inoperative

I suppose the same would happen if one hit the generators

Seems weird that there are no backup systems

Thread: Details for a scroll saw
27/01/2016 16:56:35
Posted by Martin Kyte on 27/01/2016 16:16:38:

Here my take on this for what its worth.

3. Engineer in a vacuum extract nozzle to clear the dust so you can see and for fibreglass material you don't inhale the stuff.

4. Maybe a fitting for a suitable magnifier.

5. CNC controlled material feed. (optional)

regards Martin

The amount of GRP will be minimal. Just a few inches of cut per year. Possibly a bit more for thin brass etc

the idea of magnifier is sound

But as for CNC - not sure that is much use on a scroll saw

26/01/2016 20:41:52
Posted by frank brown on 26/01/2016 20:31:43:

I some times mount a switched on jigsaw under a modified stool, so the blades pokes up where the seat would be. So its a bit like a fret saw with a thick black. I think this is the easiest way to go, do this with a spring loaded top support for your blade and you can be away in a day or so.

Frank

Actually I had thought about that. I have 4 or 5 jigsaws from my joinery business & had considered just making a blade grip. & doing exactly what you suggest. The variable speeds would enable me to experiment.to get best cutting speed. I already have a startright bandsaw

I just fancied trying some gear cutting & making the eccentric

 

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 26/01/2016 20:42:33

26/01/2016 17:29:01

I want to make a scroll saw for thin metals, grp sheet, ply & balsa ( model aero building).

I would appreciate comments on the following:-

1) How many oscillations per minute do forumites reckon I need. I will have a simple eccentric & the number of revolutions will govern the number of times the blade goes up & down.

2) How far up & down would you reckon the blade should travel. This will govern the size of eccentric. is 20mm enough or too much? Should it be faster & less stroke length or slower & a longer cut. Presumably the upper spring will have to adjust to this & thus govern the stroke. But it must affect operation somehow

3) I seem to recall a standard single phase motor of about 0.25 HP runs at 1450 RPM. Is that correct? & any ideas where I can source one cheap?

4) I will cut the gears from tufnol as I have only just bought the lathe & mill ( Promised delivery Friday-- Hurrah!!!) so I want to go easy on the cutters.

So how big should the teeth be. I know the ratio is set by number of teeth to number of teeth but should I be looking at very small teeth. How does one decide on tooth size on gears . Is there a table somewhere that one follows. Would smaller teeth be better on tufnol ? Bigger may be easier/ quicker but will the tooth snap off? should I have small teeth for quieter running or will they just strip off?. Or is it decided by the divisions available on the dividing head?

Finally - No; I do not want to buy one. Half the fun is making it ones self

Thanks

Thread: upgrade subscription having made mistake of buying digital
21/01/2016 19:12:23

I get the reply "Activation failed! this code you entered has already been issued

21/01/2016 18:52:49

Yesterday i paid for a digital subscription of model engineer. It has been a disaster.

I spent 2 hours trying to upload it & finally managed to get the October 2015 issue on my computer. It takes ages to load & is either so small I cannot see it or so large that it is just as unreadable. I tried to get it on my Ipad & gave up after struggling with passwords etc. All I , i get is requests for payment for individual issues & my order number seems invalid

. Another go tonight & as far as I am concerned i might as well have thrown the money down the drain.

Is it possible to upgrade to a posted print subscription & dump this digital mess?

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 21/01/2016 18:54:29

Thread: What do you think of MEW as a magazine
19/01/2016 21:35:55
Posted by Boiler Bri on 19/01/2016 20:05:48:

Hi Sam, why not look at the workshop series of books, these are ideal if you are looking for basic advice and step by step help. I have been an engineer for a long time and certainly do not know it all. If I am stuck I have a browse through them and I usually find what I'm looking for.

Bri

Birthday in Feb & 4 titles have already been selected. Just see what transpires

19/01/2016 21:34:44
Posted by Paul Lousick on 19/01/2016 21:01:06:

Hi Sam,

I would recommend MEW to anyone interested in model engineering. Lots of interesting projects and practical advise from members. I would also suggest that you subscribe to the digital archive so you can access older publications which contain many beginner articles.

Paul.

That would be a good idea. All I need to do now is follow the links & find out how to subscribe.

by the way- Apologies to the mods for putting in wrong place.

Being new here means i do not know my way around yet & there are many different blocks of thread. The notification email is not as good as some & i do tend to forget where i have posted. Too many blocks is my first thought. Buy Hey! I am new here

19/01/2016 18:10:56

So what do forumites think of model engineers workshop as a magazine?

Years ago I used to have RC&ME which had lots of engineering articles. Now, however, it is aeroplanes & helicopters. Whilst I am a member of a model aero club I find the mag disapointing as it does not give much " how to" info

So having seen the note that there was an article about the Drummond ( i have an "M" I shot off to W H Smiths. Disaster, - not on the shelves. If the mag has lots of info on machining I will invest in a subscription, but if it is all about steam trains chuffing up some valley or other than it will be of no interest

However without getting my hands on a copy i just wondered if model engineers actually think that it is an informative mag, or like a lot of magazines - all about someone's latest holiday

 

Finally - why has that little smiley plonked itself in the script? have I a little lodger?

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 19/01/2016 18:11:33

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 19/01/2016 18:12:37

Edited By JasonB on 19/01/2016 18:17:40

Thread: Cast Iron cutting depth
19/01/2016 17:38:10
Posted by Donald Mitchell on 19/01/2016 12:30:53:

Sam, there is a (very long winded) build diary of a Stuart 10V on YouTube. So far he is up to about part 54. Very slow going but maybe some good information for you on the builid of this engine.

 
Donald Mitchell
Bonnie Scotland

Yes - Thanks- I have seen the video & whilst it is very good the chap does go on a bit--- as do a few others-- Just wish they would get on with the machining

But informative all the same

I also have the book by Andrew Smith on building the 10V which, having bought at the show, I have not read yet

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 19/01/2016 17:50:29

18/01/2016 18:21:39

I know that when one machines cast iron they have to get below the case hardened skin.

However, I am about to start machining a cast iron Stuart 10V & the feet of the stand seem liable to cracking off

So the question is :- How deep does the first cut have to be to get beneath the skin & how deep can one go with a small item like the 10V stand before one is likely to snap the legs off

Thread: London MEX 2016 Photos
18/01/2016 05:23:34

I am really fed up now -- I missed some of those !!!!!!

& mine fitted & worked very well on my laptop - So thanks for taking the effort

Thread: What do i need for my new setup
16/01/2016 19:32:37

Well the payment has been made & delivery arranged for within 10 days

i bought a Warco WM 250 lathe The WM 16 mills. Do not know if I have made a good choice or not. Time will tell

Accessories were only, fly cutter & some HSS inserts, quick change toolpost, set of indexible cutters. Collet chuck & collets. set of end mills, toolpost die holder. I did want a boring head but was not sure what sort. I need a better vice but my existing one will do until I have had some experience. Could not find a Glance holders so just bought cheap to get a start

I nearly bought a rotary table but another model maker I spoke to advised me against the one I was looking at as he felt it was not suitable for a mill. It was him that advised me against the WM 14 mill as he said one never has one big enough & he had already made that mistake. I need some means of dividing but am not sure what yet.

I have some tools plus tool post chuck etc & a selection of HSS cutters , cut off tools , between centres boring bars . measuring gear , dials etc so i have something to experiment with

So I am just going to play around & get a feel for things. I have some Tufnol parts i need to make & that will keep me occupied for a couple of days

So once I get it set up I will just machine some bits & see how it goes

Edited By JasonB on 17/01/2016 13:20:08

Thread: small pump
13/01/2016 19:19:20
Posted by pgk pgk on 09/01/2016 12:44:53:

Sam, I fly r/c helis including a gasser and while I use petrol tubing on the bird itself I use an 'ordinary' cheap rotary hand pump to fuel it with silicone tuibiong. the same pump gets used for the glow birds and lasts a few seasons.

While i applaud the idea of a diy build some things aren't worth it. If you want to go ahead then it might be worth looking at the principles of medical peristaltic pumps. Or just use gravity.

I know a number of people have suggested buying something & i do have the rotary pump suggested above for my nitro planes. I also use a hand pump on one of my yachts inboard engine. JasonB's little pump is brilliant & i could cut some tufnol gears to a crank to get it pumping fast

It just seems like a nice little project to try & a chance to extend my skills. I think I will give it a go just for the " non flying" days

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 13/01/2016 19:20:44

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 13/01/2016 19:21:41

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