Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What do you think of MEW as a magazine|
That would be a good idea. All I need to do now is follow the links & find out how to subscribe.
by the way- Apologies to the mods for putting in wrong place.
Being new here means i do not know my way around yet & there are many different blocks of thread. The notification email is not as good as some & i do tend to forget where i have posted. Too many blocks is my first thought. Buy Hey! I am new here
So what do forumites think of model engineers workshop as a magazine?
Years ago I used to have RC&ME which had lots of engineering articles. Now, however, it is aeroplanes & helicopters. Whilst I am a member of a model aero club I find the mag disapointing as it does not give much " how to" info
So having seen the note that there was an article about the Drummond ( i have an "M" I shot off to W H Smiths. Disaster, - not on the shelves. If the mag has lots of info on machining I will invest in a subscription, but if it is all about steam trains chuffing up some valley or other than it will be of no interest
However without getting my hands on a copy i just wondered if model engineers actually think that it is an informative mag, or like a lot of magazines - all about someone's latest holiday
Finally - why has that little smiley plonked itself in the script? have I a little lodger?
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 19/01/2016 18:11:33
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 19/01/2016 18:12:37
Edited By JasonB on 19/01/2016 18:17:40
|Thread: Cast Iron cutting depth|
Yes - Thanks- I have seen the video & whilst it is very good the chap does go on a bit--- as do a few others-- Just wish they would get on with the machining
But informative all the same
I also have the book by Andrew Smith on building the 10V which, having bought at the show, I have not read yet
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 19/01/2016 17:50:29
I know that when one machines cast iron they have to get below the case hardened skin.
However, I am about to start machining a cast iron Stuart 10V & the feet of the stand seem liable to cracking off
So the question is :- How deep does the first cut have to be to get beneath the skin & how deep can one go with a small item like the 10V stand before one is likely to snap the legs off
|Thread: London MEX 2016 Photos|
I am really fed up now -- I missed some of those !!!!!!
& mine fitted & worked very well on my laptop - So thanks for taking the effort
|Thread: What do i need for my new setup|
Well the payment has been made & delivery arranged for within 10 days
i bought a Warco WM 250 lathe The WM 16 mills. Do not know if I have made a good choice or not. Time will tell
Accessories were only, fly cutter & some HSS inserts, quick change toolpost, set of indexible cutters. Collet chuck & collets. set of end mills, toolpost die holder. I did want a boring head but was not sure what sort. I need a better vice but my existing one will do until I have had some experience. Could not find a Glance holders so just bought cheap to get a start
I nearly bought a rotary table but another model maker I spoke to advised me against the one I was looking at as he felt it was not suitable for a mill. It was him that advised me against the WM 14 mill as he said one never has one big enough & he had already made that mistake. I need some means of dividing but am not sure what yet.
I have some tools plus tool post chuck etc & a selection of HSS cutters , cut off tools , between centres boring bars . measuring gear , dials etc so i have something to experiment with
So I am just going to play around & get a feel for things. I have some Tufnol parts i need to make & that will keep me occupied for a couple of days
So once I get it set up I will just machine some bits & see how it goes
Edited By JasonB on 17/01/2016 13:20:08
|Thread: small pump|
I know a number of people have suggested buying something & i do have the rotary pump suggested above for my nitro planes. I also use a hand pump on one of my yachts inboard engine. JasonB's little pump is brilliant & i could cut some tufnol gears to a crank to get it pumping fast
It just seems like a nice little project to try & a chance to extend my skills. I think I will give it a go just for the " non flying" days
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 13/01/2016 19:20:44
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 13/01/2016 19:21:41
|Thread: Drummond M type selling|
Actually you are right . it is heavy. I had to move it on my own from one shed to another & needed copious use of crow bars & rollers. Thing is that being heavy there is no vibration & it does not have any appreciable flex. I do have it on a base but that is because I am tall. I also hit my toes on the base which stops me hitting the flywheel- which I have never done. I had intended to fill the base with concrete but found it unnecessary
The headstock bearings are adjustable ( that is why there is a strip of aluminium fixed to them to prevent them moving from the set position
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 09/01/2016 11:19:14
|Thread: small pump|
As well as model engineering I fly model planes. i have just bought an engine that runs on petrol oil mix so the pumps that are used for glow fuel cannot be used. I have to buy petrol friendly pipes etc
I want to add a little hand operated pump alongside a can of fuel to fill the plane ( yes I know I can buy them but one made by me would look better on the field)
i know that Stuart etc do castings for water pumps but I feel I can make from my own materials. What i cannot find on the internet are designs for the valves. I only have to move a cupful of fuel each time so i do not want something enormous.
I seem to recall having book with designs for a ball bearing with a spring. But springs might breakdown in petrol. In addition I do not need fuel leaking everywhere so the piston needs to be a good fit, as do the valves
Can any one direct me to a source for free designs please.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 09/01/2016 09:40:59
|Thread: How do I make this ?|
Toggles on the top cords on the bottom
I cannot believe how lax I am !!!!
I sell chain as a side line. i currently about to buy in another 1000kg I could cut the slot with hacksaw then use a shaped milling cutter to form the shape to connect
However. That still does not tell me how to actually machine an item like that from plate. Surely it is not just a case of one having to grind or file it it.
Can I stick it on a vertical stub mandrel & rotate it against a cutter somehow . Each end at a differing radii?
|Thread: Drummond M type selling|
I have had a Drummond M type for 43 years . Have not used it much as I also had a large Colchester at my business premises. However, when i did use it it saved me much more than it cost. It has a 3 jaw chuck with 2 sets of jaws, One still in the box. it all works & there are about 20 change wheels. I actually used it for small threading jobs.
So here is the question-- If I put it on ebay ( have to sell soon as new lathe & mill arriving soon) what sort of price is it likely to fetch? I have an opportunity to sell it to a local for " £100 possibly 200-00 but I do not have a clue what it is worth. with the prices of new lathes so low I will not get much. or will I?
Although it is old the ways are Ok & everything is tight
Any ideas- & no!!! I was not trying a crafty trick to flog it here so apologies if I am out of order. I am sure the mods will delete it if I am
|Thread: How do I make this ?|
Can someone help a newby ( Getting lathe & mill later this month)
Hope this is the right place!!!
Above is a picture of a clip. It joins to its partner by holding at 90 degrees & slotting through the slot. I want to attach the bottom cord of 35 flags to race marks so no great load. I have already spliced all the partners to the uphaul lines
I went to buy some more but wondered if i could make them
The 2 holes with rounded edges are relatively easy as is the slot, but I am not sure how to shape the semicircular ends. Need to be rounded on all arrises. Clamping & cutting an outside radius has me stumped
They should be made in 3mm stainless but can also be in 5mm aluminium so that is what i will use. Length is 34mm & width 22mm
size does not have to be exact & the 35 No. that I need do not have to be exactly identical but it would be a good exercise to see that they are.
will be buying the gear at the ME exhibition next week so perhaps someone can direct me as to what tooling I need
And before anyone says so - yes! I can buy them for £ 4-00 a pair-- but hey!! would forumites buy them & admit defeat?
|Thread: Arrand for sale|
Unfortunately -according to google - they died in 2015
|Thread: What do i need for my new setup|
One of my other problems is indexable tooling. If I buy a , say, L hand cutter & forget who I got it from then how can i tell if I can get matching bits somewhere else. In other words are bits graded for shape & size somehow as well as material to be cut?
I do have a single indexible cutter but the bits are pretty useless. If for instance I am taking the first cut on a slightly out of shape round & the bit misses then hits it breaks the tips immediately. I had some carbide tools that did the same on the lightest of cuts. Even on very light cuts. I seem to get infinitely better results with HSS ground myself
I do not understand why when i see tipped milling cutters cutting on part of a radius then missing part of the circumfrence then cutting again they do not break as they suddenly hit the material. All mine have!!
But how does a beginner know what is Ok & what is not. Just paying more money does not always mean that I will get a fair return
Already done Have just spent £8 K on a new workshop 22 ft * 11 ft with insulated walls & roof, excellent lighting, sockets at every 600mm along each wall, radiant heaters lots of racking. windows, metal side door. It is in addition to my old garage which will still house excess tools etc so new shop is not cluttered. So i now have a total of 500 ft square of workshop space in 2 buildings side by side
Thanks for the comments . Please keep them coming. cash is not really a limit .I want to get as much now as possible but not waste on stuff i might never use
I will look at larger milling machines but having never used one I am not familiar as to what i actually need
I have never heard of an arrand tailstock holder so need to research that one.
As for the mill & a driven table -It is the sort of thing one never thinks of
For instance i have seen a youtube video where the author recommends a variable speed lathe motor because although one thinks one will change gear easily one sometimes does not bother & runs at the wrong speed . I have found that i have done precisely that on my Drummond
I had intended to get morse tapers because I have a couple of morse chucks plus live centre. i also assumed the lathe would have morse tapers in the head & tailstock. Clearly it would be prudent to stick to the same taper --- or would it ???
I already have a 220mm diam 4 jaw chuck. Just need a spare face plate to mount it on
I will get some end mills but not many until I get an idea of quality. I will also get a set of clamps & possibly adjustable packers
I was advised by a toolmaker years ago not to bother with carbide tipped tools on a small lathe as they are not as sharp as tool steel & need lots of power. Is this still the case. i have certainly lost a few tips on my old Colchester lathe
Are indexable tools worth it - I assume quality of tips could be an issue - How will I know what make to get - presumably a make that i can get spare tips easily-- any advice on manufacturer with reasonable pricing please?
Well after many years I am now in a position to buy a new lathe & a mill. I have owned a large Colchester which i used for a variety of jobs on my machinery & I have had a Drummond M type for the last 40 years which I have used for threading. ( That will be up for sale in the next month)
So i do have a few old tools & cutters but nothing of any real significance as most went when i moved home. ( plus I now I am retired I have the time & a new workshop)
I have had the castings for a Stuart 10 v for 40 years & have been saving it for now that I can get the kit to machine it properly. So it will be the first project
I am off to the exhibition at Ally Pally on Friday 15Th & will be buying a Warco ( I think the ref is a 240 or 250) along with a milling machine. I will be looking at a milling mahine in the £7-800 mark. ( do not know what one yet)I have about £ 3-3.5K to spend so my question is this:-
Given that i will have a bit to spare- i intend to get a quick change tool post as well. But what else should I consider for first purchase along with my lathe & mill.
I am talking about the very first items & I do not want to find I have made silly choices
Any advice greatly appreciated
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.