Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Workshop - indoors or outdoors|
In spite of bituthene tanking with a 100mm brick wall against it on the inside I still had leaks especially when it rained. It did not help that the void on the outside where the hole was dug for the basement was backfilled with hardcore.I would regularly get 150mm of water in the basement before I fitted the sump pump.
Fortunately I had fitted a sump & could fit a Stuart sump pump with float switch
My solution was to drill holes right through the wall at 700mm centres around the perimeter about 150mm above floor level. I inserted 19mm plastic pipe in each one & sealed with polyurethane mastic. I connected the pipes to a ring pipe & fed it to the sump.
At the start, when it rained water poured in, but not through the walls as the pipes relieved the pressure. After a couple of years the pipes rarely ran with water as it seems that it had reduced the water pressure considerably. One original mistake was just to pump the water out on to the ground. This was a mistake as it went straight back down to the walls. Once I connected it to the main drain it was OK.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 26/02/2019 19:02:42
|Thread: Cutting a large chunk of nice aluminium into workable pieces|
First you need to decide what you want to make with the pieces.
It would be silly to cut it up & then find that you needed a manhole cover that size
then a thin abrasive blade in an angle grinder perhaps?
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 20/01/2019 06:49:52
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
Most of the members in my club make their own from scratch, as do people I know who are not members of clubs.The parts are readily obtainable from such a wide source (& for a range of uses other than drones) that they are virtually untraceable
As an aside, I watched the programme a few months ago about the Battle of Britain where they had models flying in combat. I seem to recall that some had lasers & successfully "shot down" the opposition. If these lasers are successful at disabling the electronics; then I am sure that I could soon be skillful enough to down a drone, from another drone, with a laser, once I saw one & could chase after it. That must be a cheap way of doing it, provided one could get near enough in time- That being the problem.
|Thread: Access Platform|
Make a couple of 4 ft square towers of the required height but make them so one will fit on top of the other for double height so you have a tower . ( you could just buy a small tower & use it in 2 halves - they are fairly light & easy to store away) then get a 10,12, or15ft Youngmans with a handrail fitted one side.Plonk the Youngmans on the 2 towers & you have a nice long stable platform.which is safe & easy to move around You can get a 12 aluminium staging( Youngmans) for around £100 & stick your own uprights on one side with a handrail so you do not step back to admire your work & break your neck
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 31/12/2018 12:44:54
|Thread: Gatwick Drone 'Attack'|
Fair comment Michael, but it seems to me that they have not caught the perpetrators any way. Plus they have caused misery to thousands. Surely upsetting the signal would have saved massive costs as well.
The comment has been made that if a drone looses its signal it will fly back to a pre determined position. Yes they do that in our club. It is one of the tricks we perform, Have a cup of coffee whilst the drone does circuits, then as it runs out of power it senses it & comes home & hovers 4 ft above the ground waiting to be collected. So thinking that through, a helicopter sights the drone. Signal gets jammed & the drone says hey I am going back to base -- & guess what -- there is an operator standing there for all to see.
Surely that is not beyond the ability of someone with a bit of techy experience.
As for a few car alarms going off - well - what is worse? Put yourself in the position of a traveler & one of a car owner. Who is inconvenienced the most?
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 24/12/2018 17:21:44
I just think it seem weird that with all the technology they cannot jam the 2.4 channel for just enough seconds to crash the drone. I know that modern transmitters (like my Futaba) change frequencies within the bandwidth quickly but surely they can beat that. Or is it a case that doing so may disrupt some other important systems operating on the same frequency?
What really concerns me is the backlash on sensible model fliers
our club operates a quarter of a mile from a private field (Stowe Maries war museum) where there can be a couple of air displays a year & regular private flights (biplanes etc) during the week. Although the airfield operators have agreed that the planes will not fly over our model flying site they sometimes do ( probably visitors) . If we cannot get our models down in time they can get close. That being said we always look out for them & if a plane strays close we down all models until safe to fly.
If someone suddenly decided that a practice that has worked Ok for the last 8 years is no longer safe then we would loose our flying field (for which we have local authority planning permission)
This drone incident is something that bone fide modelers can do without
Do not mention the sex
I did but I think i got away with it
I think the correct response to that post might be " Don't judge others by yourself!!"
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 24/12/2018 11:11:36
Stick to the sex angle it is more fun than droning on about politics
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 24/12/2018 10:04:09
My wife was watching the programme about one of our warships & I noticed a bit where one of the gunners was aiming at a target at sea. To be fair to the amateur Americans they were probably no worse than our"professionals"
Later in the programme the female captain congratulated the gunner on his shooting, but from the little I saw only a couple of bullets actually hit the target, with most shots scattered around it. I could not help wondering how the gunner would have faired if the target had been a in Israeli soldier with a similar machine gun returning fire. I doubt if our man would have got off more than a couple of rounds.
At least the Americans did eventually hit all the model planes. Mind you a shotgun might have been a better weapon than some of the artillery pieces. Fun firing one though!!. Bit worrying knowing that the druggy neighbour up the road might have one in the garage.
This is how they do it in America
Starts at about 1.5 mins
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 23/12/2018 20:42:57
There is a local clay pigeon shoot that shares our model flying field every second Sunday, I am pretty sure that their hit rate is somewhat better than 1 in 800 & the stray "bullets" would not go far.
I suggest that, if invited, they would feel quite happy to line the perimeter for a few hours to pop a stray drone; especially if someone gave them a reasonable share of the £50K reward money offered for the perpetrators of the crime.
|Thread: Making a torch|
I am going to use the aluminium rudder stock from my boat. I lost my rudder when I ran aground near the Kessock bridge in the Morray Firth when sailing SH round UK. I saved the old stock which had been in the boat for 12 years without corrosion & is tapered 35-80 diam & is 2.4 m long.
It is obviously a structural grade but I have not tried machining any of it yet . I just wanted a project that was different & being able to carry about, use & say Yeah! "I made this" You cannot do that with models
So I had not got to considering what grade, only using what I had . But now I am in a quandry. I may experiment with some offcuts & see how it machines first. I am not worried about corrosion, The boat does not get that wet & i can always put the torch in my pocket. Will not make it too big ( first time round anyway)
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 18/12/2018 14:29:52
The Aeries self steering is alumnium & is 40 years old. It is anodised. The torch will not get wet so I am not worried about it being aluminium. thanks.
But, that being said, what would you suggest as an alternative that is easy to machine , turn, thread & mill flats on etc?
As I said in my original post--we can all buy biros for pennies - But??
Machining the aluminium, cutting the threads, - nice fine ones so it feels like quality-anodising the case, making the clip & decent knurling. Battery fixings could be fiddly & a job for a printer.
I am sure that i could work out something for a reflector or LED mounting & perhaps use a small magnifying glass lense for the glass. Would that work? Focal length & all that.
Not sure about the electronics & that is where I was hoping to get some comment. Switch could be a screwed base.
It was only a thought for a project different to the run of the mill steam engines etc etc
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 18/12/2018 10:22:53
Yeah!!! I know that one can buy them dead cheap (Or pay a fortune) but you can also buy a biro for pennies & people still make pens!!
So has anyone tried making a torch. Perhaps a nice aluminium rechargeable one? Coloured, anodised barrel perhaps. LED's or Zenon ( what should one use?) Are there any designs out there to follow?
I want a nice handy powerful round rechargeable one for the boat that will not go flat in five minutes & be there when I need it & not just glimmer at me & die.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 17/12/2018 22:25:50
|Thread: Interests other than Model Engineering|
Model Aeroplane flying. Good fun as I am in a great club, with some really helpful guys. If one has a problem there is always 4 heads in the plane making suggestions. They do not always know the answer, but all willing to try & help!!!
But mainly sailing (single handed). Been round UK twice single handed. Last year I was presented with some goodies by the Royal North Sea Yacht Club in Belgium to commemorate my 75 Th visit to Ostend. First visit was in 1970. I have cruised from Amsterdam & almost as far as La Rochelle & go to the Channel Islands most years
I also sail a single handed racing dinghy when not on my yacht. Yesterday I was on the club support boat rescuing capsized dinghies as for the last 15 years I have crewed the RIB for the winter series.( gets a bit cold so I have stopped racing it in the winter, just doing support boat ie laying marks etc & pulling others out of the oggin now)
I have had a lathe for over 50 years (originally a Drummond type M, plus a Colchester Master & now a Warco 250MV) & had a Myford wood turning lathe that my father bought for me when I was 12/13 years old.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 03/12/2018 22:41:28
|Thread: Quick release hook|
So basically a pelican hook but a much cruder construction. That has me thinking
Thanks I did not realise that pattern went that large . Wichard are notoriously expensive but I will find out the cost
How much do you pay these divers along with all the attendant support gear?
When you tell me, I will laugh as well.
This is all about economics. A tug to lay the moorings wants several £k's poss £6-8K to be confirmed
A local friendly tug guy used to do them for £ 50-00 each as he was passing, minimum 10 at a time. Just because he was friends with us all. Unfortunately he passed away & his family will no longer hire the tug to us
A Flotation bag costs £1000 & will last several years .We can do the job ourselves using our own group launch at times to suit us. Ie not all in one day. So when someone wants a single mooring we can put 1 in & not pay the minimum fee.So for 40 moorings we would charge £ 40-00 each, we would make a small profit for our fund & have a free flotation bag ready for next time
But all we need is to design a quick release hook
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