Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warco WM 16 VS woes|
Today I ordered the new gear at the cost of an arm, a leg & a bowl of blood.
Because my mill is bolted to some steel to raise the standard cupboard 9 inches higher, I cannot easily move it to get round the back. Therefore, I have removed the head & put it on a bench.
Looking at the gear it seems to me that it should be possibly to make a new pair of wheels in brass & silver solder them together as a pair. Alternatively make a set in plastic from some tufnol whale or Oilon (I actually have that). Fairly cheap in plastic, so can make some mistakes first, without too much expense.
Has anyone tried that? What gear cutter do I need? I have a friend with several milling machines to make them on & he has all the other bits I would need. Never tried it before but seems to me to be worth a go.
Thanks for the help everyone. The information about the match to the Grizzly was useful as that took me to the videos. The higher gear does work still, but, presumably, that is putting greater load on the motor, which is showing signs of early departure from this world. Cannot tell why though, as it has done very little work.
I think that the gear failed because it seems that it was not engaging fully when in the locked position
Now I know how to strip the machine I will take a look inside. There is obviously something very wrong with this mill as I have not been able to do much milling with it. It vibrates so badly that just drilling holes is difficult, as it flexes like a lump of jelly.
Not one of my better purchases
Unfortunately I have a Warco WM 16 VS item No. 3217 year of manufacture 2015.
I appear to have stripped a gear on the low speed option, although I cannot see it very well. Probably the famous plastic one that I have heard about.
I have removed the motor cover & the front cover, but cannot work out how one gets to the gears to remove them & replace. Assuming they can be replaced. (Otherwise it will be the skip & a proper mill!!)
Can anyone who has solved this, give me some guidance on how one should approach the problem (not the skip solution, although I am sorely tempted)
Many thanks in advance
|Thread: Tour of my workshop|
Lovely to have all that space, but one has to wonder--------Is there anything that does NOT need a job doing to it before you can use it????
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 21/10/2019 22:15:15
|Thread: Confession Time!|
Well it would be--- It had a light in it
|Thread: Free software and human nature|
The NHS is not free. I worked years paying for it, within my taxes.
That does not mean that I use it as though I am entitled to it though.
In fact the less I have to use it the better.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 13/10/2019 13:26:16
|Thread: Warco WM18 milling head shake ( technically spindle is precessing) when plunge milling a blind slot.|
My WM16 shakes all over the place even when drilling a simple hole. It vibrates so much that I have elastic bands on the control box to try & stop it shaking itself to bits. The head flexes from side to side visibly.
The unit can be clamped as tight as possible & it just flexes.The whole column seems to bend. Not much use as a mill, unless machining plastics etc.
Mostly I use it as a pillar drill.
Very disappointed with it.
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
Get some strong cord about 4-5 mm diameter. Double it over in half so one end has a loop. Wind the cord round the filter so each wind covers tightly over the last. When at the end of the cord put a stick through the loop & position the stick so it also sits on end of the cord windings to jam the cord. .The action of the stick in the loop tightens the cord round the filter
Slide the cord & stick to a convenient position.You may have to re wind starting at a different point once you know where the loop finishes up.
Jiggle it all tight then lever the stick to undo the filter.
You can do it with the cord singly & a loop tied in the end & keep winding the turns over themselves.Pull the end of the cord to get the loop in the right place then tighten up & turn with the stick.
I also have a length of webbing that fits in a half inch extension bar. I wind that round & then turn the extension bar with a ratchet handle so it tightens the webbing then turns the filter
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 12/09/2019 14:21:20
|Thread: Tolerance for needle bearings?|
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 05/08/2019 08:25:59
|Thread: RENAULT DAUPHINE|
Back to the IMP- BMW made an equivalent to the Imp about the same time. I seem to recall that it had an odd crankshaft which may have had roller bearing big ends
Yes ! used to watch them at Brands Hatch coming out of Druids , down the hill & round the South Bank with the inside wheel off the ground racing the minis. Finally lost out to the Anglias.
|Thread: IC engine tractor conversion query|
Look at golf cart batteries. Designed for a bit more than 50% drop . Come as 6V I believe but H duty
|Thread: RENAULT DAUPHINE|
The TV advert, a film of the car with a big box on the roof & the family inside.
"It holds the road whatever the load, it's the Renault Dauphine"
|Thread: Up and over door seal|
I had a brush seal but it was useless as the water just goes through the brush. i now have a 100mm piece of damp proof membrane fitted to the door ,faced with a 20 mm wide strip of aluminium to clamp it to the door. There is still a small leak each end but the DPM has been left a little long & I have cut notches in the frame to accept this, so leakage is really very small
The best solution would be a piece of timber plugged & screwed to the floor inside, on a bed of mastic, to form a simple rebate. This would catch any water running down the door jambs, as well as under the door
|Thread: Aldi bargain laser level|
I did try to delet the last post when i realised it was totally out of context but the edit was stopped
I am beginning to recall the method now. One doubles the angle & forms a triangle with 2 equal angles at the base & the top angle is the observed sextant angle- (or is it twice the observed angle, or was the base angles each half the observed angle- cannot recall?). The base being the line between the 2 observed points. From that top point one strikes a circle through the 2 stations. But i seem to recall that one had to know which side of the stations one placed the triangles. Trial & error based on dead reckoning. Or obvious from the position of the land I think !!
Now I am going to have to find a b..y book & read it up for no other practical purpose other than reminding myself how !!!
Trouble is that reading a sextant horizontally through 2 points is almost impossibly on any small yacht in any sort of sea. The method possibly stemmed from the days of square riggers with a stable platform. There was also a special protractor for setting out the triangles. Forget the name. Will have to sleep on that one.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 22:46:41
You have just said something that conflicts-- that you have to get 2 points to coincide. Of course it matters if they are jiggling about. have you never tried tossing about in a swell aiming a sextant at a target. I have enough trouble aiming binoculars in a 2 metre chop, let alone aiming my sextant at 2 shore targets at once. I have to admit that my sextant does not lend itself to horizontal use, I have had it 40 years & it does not have wheel adjustment. I certainly have tried( just testing really) & given up as a bad job. Easy vertically. Lack of use in the last 20 years makes it difficult to pick up now
My Sestral compass is about as good as they get & i can get fairly good top hats depending on boat motion.I use it regularly in places like Channel Islands
To each his own- we are not going to agree- but does that matter- Of course not
I would back the accuracy of my Sestral Handbearing compass aimed at a single point up against my sextant held horizontally, whilst trying to fix on 2 points any day.
With the greatest respect, Are you sure about that?
Somehow I do not think that would give a reliable fix.The RYA method uses 3 compass bearings not a sextant angle If one has a sextant one has to work from a point towards the targets
One would have to lay the compass bearing line first then set the angle with a protractor or similar tool & slide it along the bearing line until it met the target. Repeat for the third point. The whole fix would be totally reliant on the first bearing, thus making the fix very unreliable. If one had a compass to take the bearing in the first place then one would continue to take bearings.
If you think about it, there is no advantage in using a sextant which is not only difficult but would produce an inconsistent fix.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 19:27:30
My first "foreign trip" from Burnham on Crouch to Ostend was in 1969 & I missed Ostend by 9 miles (no lessons for me) I hadn't a clue where I was.
I have just returned from 6 weeks single handed cruise to the Channel islands (picking up the June 06 D day landings on the way) & just as I left, my chart plotter failed. The best part of the trip was having to manage the navigation conventionally. Especially 2 legs of approx 100 miles - part over night,out of sight of land-, wondering where on earth I would end up. The rocks around Channel Islands tend to focus the mind .
Spot on every time- So what I learned all those years ago still worked.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 19:07:07
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.