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Member postings for Sam Longley 1

Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Finding a penknife
28/04/2021 17:26:48

I buy the same model Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops knives every so often. I have had quite a few over the years & I buy them from a shop in Ostend. They do a model with a blade just under 4 inches & I have a couple of others with a much smaller blade. I use them for work-moorings, rigging, plus on my boat etc.. I find the steel very good. Cost ( in Ostend) is circa 35 euros. but last one purchased was in 2019

I would recommend them as a single bladed "working" item. I expect that they are available online The handle is aluminium with holes in it & they can be silver or lightly blued colour. very easy to open with the thumb, locking blade, Push button or a lever lock.

I know all about the legality, but if I am on my launch trying to lift a mooring & cut something free in choppy weather trying to open a knife, I cannot fuss around.

Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder
10/04/2021 10:57:19

Chap on another forum sent cheque in August last year & is still waiting for drawings. Seems mail is taking its time- poor excuse if you ask me. Less reason to send a cheque.

10/04/2021 10:55:48
Posted by JasonB on 10/04/2021 07:01:55:

Regarding the fact they say they are not set up for paypal which may be why Michael has revoked his earlier comment. It is likely they are not able to issue a Paypal invoice but provided they have a paypal account you can pay into it provided you have the e-mail address they use for it and are obviously willing. They used to take a fee but don't remember having to do that last time I used it just before Xmas

Also as I said earlier and others have too they take Western union so you could use that, WU take a fee from you but not the person collecting the money.

The other option is to offer to transfer more money to cover their bank costs so they are not out of pocket.

I did that but they refuse to give an account number. Their bank charge 18 canadian dollars so margaret tell me. Seems guy & her are divorced so she does the dealing - Not sure of validity of that comment though.

09/04/2021 21:35:32
Posted by Mike Crossfield on 09/04/2021 15:25:58:

Mr Tinker produced two versions of the Tinker. The standard, and the smaller and slightly simpler “Mini Tinker”. 20-odd years ago I bought a set of plans for the Mini Tinker. I can’t for the life of me remember how I got them - at the time I was travelling to and fro to the US quite a lot, so It’s possible I bought them there. Anyway, my plans changed and I never used them. I came across them during a recent tidy-up, so if anyone is interested I’d be happy to sell them. They consist of 1 x A4 sheet of Construction Notes, 1 x A4 sheet of Operating Notes, I x A4 Materials list, and 5 x A3 sheet of drawings.send me a PM if you’re interested.


Unfortunately I wanted the full version as reports that the mini falls short of a decent range & job.

I have just had an email from them & they refuse to give me an account No. Even if I telephone them for it. So there is no way i can transfer the money. Seems a bit weird, but clearly they do not want my custom. So unless I can source a second hand set somewhere I will have to drop the idea

09/04/2021 11:53:04
Posted by jon hill 3 on 09/04/2021 11:03:47:

Hi Sam

If wiring the money is a problem with your bank open up a Transferwise account, foreign exchange fees are minimal as it is set up to match people who already have the currencies necessary.

By the way I think Transferwise are now called Wise.

Apparently the problem is Guy's end & they will not give me an account to pay into as it costs them money. According to the Nat West site, my end will do it FOC

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 09/04/2021 11:54:40

09/04/2021 11:51:58
Posted by DMB on 09/04/2021 10:44:46:

I acquired the 2 iron castings many years ago from a fellow club member after purchasing the drawings from Guy.

Do you still have the drawings & would they be for sale if you are in the Uk?

That may sort my problem if you no longer need them

Sam L

Thread: Source of 2 inch balls for water pump
09/04/2021 07:23:51

My pegsun pump had 3 inch rubber balls in it & it was 40years old & still going strong when I sold it. I suspect that rubber would seat better anyway. Perhaps a hard ball as the type one throws for one's dog to chew on might do the trick

Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder
09/04/2021 07:17:54

I would also like to build this model ( please do not suggest other models in replying) & have been in touch with Guy Lautard who is willing to send me the drawings in PDF format for 50 canadian dollars. I can then print them out on 93 A4 sheets here in the UK. At least that should save surprise import duty etc

I have some castings off a woodworking machine that look almost identical to those in the plans.They can certainly be adapted

I wanted to pay by electronic transfer but have been told by his wife that she will not give me the IBAN account details for me to pay into. Understandable, I suppose, as she does not know if I am genuine. She says her bank will charge her a lot to accept the payment electronically.

Is that true & is payment by cheque from me, with a 25 day clearance time the other end, the only way I can do this? Will that then cost me a lot to get it cleared my end?

Has anyone experience of overseas payment, whereby I can pay someone who is not set up for paypal etc.

Come to that, has anyone got a set of plans I can buy to save the hassle

Has anyone any suggestions please


Sam L

Thread: Barrier Creams
26/03/2021 10:39:34

I like Rosalex which i bought years ago in a tub about 5 litres. I transferred it to a used Swarffega dispenser. I find that by squirting it onto my palms first I can work plenty under my finger nails which helps cleaning afterwards. I think black finger nails look awful.

For years I used to clean with Swarffega & some sand, but now they make it with a mild abrasive which is kinder to my aged hands

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 26/03/2021 10:41:31

Thread: Is RSJ Steel machinable?
24/03/2021 17:39:23

My Warco lathe & M16 Mill both sit on standard Warco cabinets. 3 short lengths under the lathe cabinet & 2 under the mill cabinet raising them both 9 inches makes a h..ll of a difference to one's back after a couple of hours playing at either ( i am 6 ft 6ins tall) . Easy to bolt to the floor & to the cabinets & no flexing.

Thread: Helical pencil sharpener blade replacement
15/03/2021 08:54:26

I know little of these things so forgive me if this is rubbishcrying

If it is not cutting it is because the corner of the top to the vertical cutting edge has rounded- i would think that is stating the b..g obvious. But thinking it through & how it works, I would think that because the cutter sits at an angle the tip of the pencil does not actually reach the end of the cutter.

Therefore, instead of trying to grind the flutes why not put the cutter in the lathe & reduce the outside circumference by a thou. That should take the rounded corner off & leave a square, sharp edge. If done on the correct rotation it may leave a tiny burr but that would not be such a bad thing as it would be in the correct direction. It could be filed off.

With a smaller diameter the pencil will just go further into the unit. Hence, my comment above about how far the pencil goes in

The reduction could be done by rotating against a file or a stone perhaps. Others will know how.

If the reduction in diameter was an issue the mounting could be packed down by a suitable amount

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/03/2021 08:59:55

Thread: What tool to use please
18/02/2021 22:18:59
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 18/02/2021 21:33:34:

Sam may be guilty of cruelty to machine tools if this job is typical!

. About 60 RPM for 85mm diameter.


that is the second suggestion of sub 100 RPM in this thread.I am not sure that the lathe can run with enough power at that speed as it is the variable speed version not belt drive. I expect 200 RPM will be minimum.

However, I will give it a the morning but it will have to be very light cuts


18/02/2021 22:14:38
Posted by Bill Phinn on 18/02/2021 16:57:39:
Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 18/02/2021 16:39:19:However, the mill is a rubbish Warco m16.

Can we take it you mean the example of a Warco WM16 you own is rubbish, not that all Warco WM16s are rubbish?

Obviously I can only speak for mine , but I am Soooo disappointed with it.

18/02/2021 16:39:19
Posted by Chris Evans 6 on 18/02/2021 15:23:18:

I would cheat and profile the diameter very close on the mill/rotary table.

I thought about that. I have a top quality 8 inch rotary table. However, the mill is a rubbish Warco m16. The vibration is ridiculous. Pretty useless for machining metal. Simple drilling holes is better done on my pillar drill.

18/02/2021 15:21:42
Posted by JasonB on 18/02/2021 13:12:37:

Socket Head Cap Screw even.

Ahhh !!surprise

Not after I have already cut a male thread on the end of my mandrel me thinks.sad

But why a bolt instead of a nut on a stud? What can the reasoning be behind that?

(At least I can push the tail stock to it if I want.)

Anyone know?

18/02/2021 12:44:24
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 18/02/2021 12:35:48:
Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 18/02/2021 12:09:25:

I started with it in the 4 jaw to bore the shaft hole. I then tried taking off some of the outer edge but with only 6mm held in the jaws I felt that i was in fro a piece of plate flying out across the workshop.

That's why I didn't say machine part of the OD in the 4-jaw chuck. smile

A disc supported only at the centre is a .......... cymbal! Good in a drum kit but not so useful on a lathe. For the spigot I'd make the diameter of the backing surface about half the OD of the part, say around 50mm barstock. Same for the washer at the front, and I'd use a SHCS instead of a nut. Making the diameter of the driving surfaces a good proportion of the part OD means that the part is less likely to slip when taking proper cuts to avoid work hardening.


Apologies. i needed to read your post again

But my mandrel is 45 mm at the back. So I very nearly got one bit rightsmiley

But for the life of me --SHCS-- Brain fade perhaps ?????

18/02/2021 12:12:34
Posted by noel shelley on 18/02/2021 11:44:50:

Hss to start with but the tool MUST cut ! If it rubs it will almost instantly harden the 316 and be a real problem. As to the design, I would query the wisdom of notches in the periphery, They will catch the rope and pull it round the shaft ! Look at the shape of the blades on a No Weed Propellor, fitted to the DUKW. A far better plan is to NOT to rortate the prop whilst a rope is in the water and ALWAYS have a very sharp knife to hand to cut away any rope or net ! Noel

I would love to comment to the contrary -- But Jason would not allow it disgust

18/02/2021 12:09:25
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 18/02/2021 11:50:39:

A plate mounted on a small spigot is an open ended invitation to Mr. Chatter, whatever tooling you use. The ratio of OD to finished bore doesn't look too bad.

I'd mount the rough plate in a 4-jaw chuck held on the OD. Face off and drill/bore the centre hole. Turn it round in the 4-jaw and face to width. It wouldn't take long to knock off more of the edges on the rough part. Finally mount on a spigot, with a thick washer (not a thin commercial one) and machine the OD and chamfer. In my experience 316 turns very nicely with insert tooling. I'd mill the peripheral slots after machining to avoid an interrupted cut and allow one to form a better shaped edge for cutting.


I started with it in the 4 jaw to bore the shaft hole. I then tried taking off some of the outer edge but with only 6mm held in the jaws I felt that i was in fro a piece of plate flying out across the workshop. Taking tiny cuts with a brazed cutter was just work hardening the material. So that is why i decided against leaving it in the 4 jaw. At least in a mandrel it is securely held. Perhaps I will cut the notches in the mill afterwards. I have to work out how to get sharp edges on them as well, so a ball cutter may be needed.

18/02/2021 11:27:59

I have a Warco 240MV lathe & have removed the topslide. The 4 jaw chuck is permanently mounted on the cross slide for better rigidity. I have a variety of cutters (HSS, Brazed carbide & indexible)& because I have several of the following pieces to make, I might consider buying the right tool based upon advice received.

I am making a rope cutter for a prop shaft of a yacht out of 316 stainless steel. I am starting with 13 mm * 100 mm plate which I have cut to a rough shape with an angle grinder. then mounted it in a 4 jaw chuck, bored for the shaft. then mounted on a mandrel in a 3 jaw chuck.

I am now faced with a piece of stainless with a very rough hit & miss turning problem. I tried taking a piece off whilst still in the 4 jaw & it vibrated like h..l.

So my problem is what is the best toolbit -Type, end size, radius etc then lathe speed to get a reasonable cut & get it round.

Having done that I am going to turn it to 85mm diam & the cutting part will be 6mm the ( the boss is the 13mm) chamfered to a sharp edge.

In this edge will be 6 No semicircular notches 8mm diam ( so they will be 4mm deep) to aid cutting when it spins. So when i get to diameter I will drill 6 holes on the circumfrence then machine the edge . Once again I will have an interupted cut.

This may preclude my usual lightweight cheepo chinese disposable tips

So can anyone please suggest the best tooling for the job & if they added some idea of speed that would be great.

I am enclosing a picture of the disc in the lathe ready to go & a picture of a cutter that does NOT have the 6 notches to give an idea of what it might look like


Sam L

ss disc.jpg

disc cutter.jpg

Thread: crane uprate - where would you add some metal ?
10/02/2021 11:41:05

Normally the limit on the ram is the power of the pump. That usually is the part that cannot deliver any more force. I have overloaded jacks & got to the point where the jack handle has just bent or the bracket to the pump has bent or the pump has let go & the ram has gradually sunk back

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