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Member postings for Sam Longley 1

Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Confession Time!
18/10/2019 18:51:34
Posted by Cornish Jack on 18/10/2019 17:02:19:- that mag head actually has an LED fitted and 3 button cells to operate it! I HAD NO IDEA!!! Must be some new bright idea.


Well it would be--- It had a light in ityes

Thread: Free software and human nature
13/10/2019 13:24:15
Posted by Colin Wilks on 12/10/2019 23:13:51:

Hello Clive

Like the NHS, many do not value what is free.

The NHS is not free. I worked years paying for it, within my taxes.crying

That does not mean that I use it as though I am entitled to it though.

In fact the less I have to use it the better.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 13/10/2019 13:26:16

Thread: Warco WM18 milling head shake ( technically spindle is precessing) when plunge milling a blind slot.
08/10/2019 18:14:14

My WM16 shakes all over the place even when drilling a simple hole. It vibrates so much that I have elastic bands on the control box to try & stop it shaking itself to bits. The head flexes from side to side visibly.

The unit can be clamped as tight as possible & it just flexes.The whole column seems to bend. Not much use as a mill, unless machining plastics etc.

Mostly I use it as a pillar drill.

Very disappointed with it.

Thread: Stuck oil filter
12/09/2019 14:19:07

Get some strong cord about 4-5 mm diameter. Double it over in half so one end has a loop. Wind the cord round the filter so each wind covers tightly over the last. When at the end of the cord put a stick through the loop & position the stick so it also sits on end of the cord windings to jam the cord. .The action of the stick in the loop tightens the cord round the filter

Slide the cord & stick to a convenient position.You may have to re wind starting at a different point once you know where the loop finishes up.

Jiggle it all tight then lever the stick to undo the filter.

You can do it with the cord singly & a loop tied in the end & keep winding the turns over themselves.Pull the end of the cord to get the loop in the right place then tighten up & turn with the stick.

I also have a length of webbing that fits in a half inch extension bar. I wind that round & then turn the extension bar with a ratchet handle so it tightens the webbing then turns the filter

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 12/09/2019 14:21:20

Thread: Tolerance for needle bearings?
05/08/2019 08:22:56


Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 05/08/2019 08:25:59

03/08/2019 19:25:17

Back to the IMP- BMW made an equivalent to the Imp about the same time. I seem to recall that it had an odd crankshaft which may have had roller bearing big ends

02/08/2019 13:56:40
Posted by Cornish Jack on 02/08/2019 12:55:45:

Re. the Imp, wasn't one of the major problems the pneumatic throttle operation? Never had one but heard tales of the throttle tube coming adrift. Seem to remember they were much favoured for racing.



Yes ! used to watch them at Brands Hatch coming out of Druids , down the hill & round the South Bank with the inside wheel off the ground racing the minis. Finally lost out to the Anglias.

Thread: IC engine tractor conversion query
01/08/2019 07:02:47
Posted by AdrianR on 31/07/2019 13:47:47:

I think the conversion to an electric motor is easy, the hard bit is getting the batteries.

The energy density of batteries is very low compared to fuel and to have a decent run time you need huge batteries. Which if are lead acid are also very heavy.

Your 12HP engine would need to be replaced with a motor would draw 11KW assuming 80% efficiency of the controllers etc. At 48V that would be 229A, so for 1hr at full power you would need about 500AH of battery (lead acid max discharge 50%).

If you want to be green, buy biofuel.

Look at golf cart batteries. Designed for a bit more than 50% drop . Come as 6V I believe but H duty

01/08/2019 06:55:07

The TV advert, a film of the car with a big box on the roof & the family inside.

"It holds the road whatever the load, it's the Renault Dauphine"

Thread: Up and over door seal
30/07/2019 13:30:13

I had a brush seal but it was useless as the water just goes through the brush. i now have a 100mm piece of damp proof membrane fitted to the door ,faced with a 20 mm wide strip of aluminium to clamp it to the door. There is still a small leak each end but the DPM has been left a little long & I have cut notches in the frame to accept this, so leakage is really very small

The best solution would be a piece of timber plugged & screwed to the floor inside, on a bed of mastic, to form a simple rebate. This would catch any water running down the door jambs, as well as under the door

Thread: Aldi bargain laser level
16/07/2019 07:56:15



I did try to delet the last post when i realised it was totally out of context but the edit was stopped


15/07/2019 22:03:01

I am beginning to recall the method now. One doubles the angle & forms a triangle with 2 equal angles at the base & the top angle is  the observed sextant angle- (or is it twice the observed angle, or was the base angles each half the observed angle- cannot recall?). The base being the line between the 2 observed points. From that top point one strikes a circle through the 2 stations. But i seem to recall that one had to know which side of the stations one placed the triangles. Trial & error based on dead reckoning. Or obvious from the position of the land I think !!

Now I am going to have to find a b..y book & read it up for no other practical purpose other than reminding myself how !!!

Trouble is that reading a sextant horizontally through 2 points is almost impossibly on any small yacht in any sort of sea. The method possibly stemmed from the days of square riggers with a stable platform. There was also a special protractor for setting out the triangles. Forget the name. Will have to sleep on that one.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 22:46:41

15/07/2019 20:55:43
Posted by andrew lyner on 15/07/2019 20:04:37:
Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 20:02:03:

I would back the accuracy of my Sestral Handbearing compass aimed at a single point up against my sextant held horizontally, whilst trying to fix on 2 points any day.

You don't have to "fix on" two points. You adjust th sextant until the two objects coincide. It doesn't;t matter if they are jigging about.

What sort of accuracy can you rely on with your hand bearing compass and have you ever tried a HSA reading?

You have just said something that conflicts-- that you have to get 2 points to coincide. Of course it matters if they are jiggling about. have you never tried tossing about in a swell aiming a sextant at a target. I have enough trouble aiming binoculars in a 2 metre chop, let alone aiming my sextant at 2 shore targets at once. I have to admit that my sextant does not lend itself to horizontal use, I have had it 40 years & it does not have wheel adjustment. I certainly have tried( just testing really) & given up as a bad job. Easy vertically. Lack of use in the last 20 years makes it difficult to pick up now

My Sestral compass is about as good as they get & i can get fairly good top hats depending on boat motion.I use it regularly in places like Channel Islands

To each his own- we are not going to agree- but does that matter- Of course not yes

15/07/2019 20:02:03

I would back the accuracy of my Sestral Handbearing compass aimed at a single point up against my sextant held horizontally, whilst trying to fix on 2 points any day.

15/07/2019 19:24:15
Posted by Frank Gorse on 15/07/2019 18:56:03:

Quite horizontal angle needs a compass bearing to give position. Two horizontal sextant angles on three objects gives a fix where the two arcs overlap and both were still in the textbooks for RYA yachtmaster not that long ago but I’ve never tried either.and shouldn’t want to have to when it really mattered.


With the greatest respect, Are you sure about that?

Somehow I do not think that would give a reliable fix.The RYA method uses 3 compass bearings not a sextant angle If one has a sextant one has to work from a point towards the targets

One would have to lay the compass bearing line first then set the angle with a protractor or similar tool & slide it along the bearing line until it met the target. Repeat for the third point. The whole fix would be totally reliant on the first bearing, thus making the fix very unreliable. If one had a compass to take the bearing in the first place then one would continue to take bearings.

If you think about it, there is no advantage in using a sextant which is not only difficult but would produce an inconsistent fix.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 19:27:30

15/07/2019 19:06:18

My first "foreign trip" from Burnham on Crouch to Ostend was in 1969 & I missed Ostend by 9 miles (no lessons for me) I hadn't a clue where I was.

I have just returned from 6 weeks single handed cruise to the Channel islands (picking up the June 06 D day landings on the way) & just as I left, my chart plotter failed. The best part of the trip was having to manage the navigation conventionally. Especially 2 legs of approx 100 miles - part over night,out of sight of land-, wondering where on earth I would end up. The rocks around Channel Islands tend to focus the mind .

Spot on every time- So what I learned all those years ago still worked.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 19:07:07

15/07/2019 16:45:58

A Horizontal angle on its own will not give you distance off because it will subtend an arc which could be any distance from the shore dependent on the length of either leg. You need a compass to determine the direction of the legs. In which case the sextant is not required. Without the compass bearing you would not know where to draw the lines.

However, Charts show the height of light houses which gives the third dimension of your triangle for distance off if you take the angle vertically. You need to be able to see the base & know the height of tide then you can calculate the distance to the object That is unless you know the dipping distance, in which case the vertical angle is irrelevant. But you still need to know the bearing from the light to get a position fix within a reasonable estimate.

The "dipping distance" is the distance at which the light appears to drop below the horizon.Add to that, the dipping distance of the observers eye above the waterline & you have an approx distance off.

Better still if you have GPS & it is not being jammed

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 16:47:42

15/07/2019 08:03:15

But a laser level, which is a very common use for them, could be pointing up in the air (or down)


Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 08:05:45

15/07/2019 07:29:28
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 15/07/2019 01:13:37:


I'm sure (most) younger readers will struggle as much to know what Dumpy and Cowley levels are*.


Of course they are antiques now & consigned to the bin.(mine is not, I used it last year) But when Paul used a laser to align his fence & drains he could possibly have used a set of boning rods to far greater effect.

My grandfather was using water levels as did his grandfather before him & mine is hanging in the shed. But ask someone how to fill one (they do not work if they have air bubbles in them) -- there is another question for you

But should they assume that because it is a " laser" the instrument supplied is adjusted for accuracy in the first place? & just because it is modern it does not always make it the best tool for the job

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/07/2019 07:38:49

14/07/2019 07:20:18
Posted by Paul Lousick on 11/07/2019 23:18:46:

Its a laser pointer with a bubble level and not a precision instrument if you only rely on the bubble.

I used one to determine the levels for the storm water drainage piping around my house and because it was on fairly flat land, could only achieve a fall of 1 in 100. Prior to using the laser, I used a length of clear plastic tube, filled with water to mark datum points at several positions around my house and used these points as targets for aligning the laser. Then I could swing the laser between the datum points and measure the depth to the trench for the water pipe.

After the pipes were installed, a council building inspector told me it had to be checked by a certified surveyor. Luckily the cheap laser level and water filled tube did their job and the project was passed.


That brings back memories.

When I was 10 years old my fathers foreman ganger used to let me sight down the boning rods when drain laying.

Salt glazed drains with cement joints..

Datums were set with a Cowley level.

Still would not mess about with a laser if there was 2 of us.

Still got the dumpy level & staff he let me buy for my own use when I was 16. An antique now I suspect.

If a building surveyor told me that i had to have a "certified surveyor" to check my drains I would have told him to get stuffed- (Regardless of the fact I am qualified anyway, it would not matter)

One of the questions I used to ask site foremen when interviewing them was, "Can you use a dumpy level" Answer " yes" - OK

Do you know how to check it for accuracy? That used to stump some of them & I suspect that lasers, when hired, borrowed etc. would not necessarily be accurate. Most would just assume they are. But hired equipment gets abused.

I have never used one in anger; but if i did I would know how to check it.

I wonder if others have had the problem- is it an issue with lasers?

So here is a question for you.

How would one check a "hired in" laser for accuracy prior to use?


Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/07/2019 07:30:33

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