Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Finding a penknife|
I buy the same model Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops knives every so often. I have had quite a few over the years & I buy them from a shop in Ostend. They do a model with a blade just under 4 inches & I have a couple of others with a much smaller blade. I use them for work-moorings, rigging, plus on my boat etc.. I find the steel very good. Cost ( in Ostend) is circa 35 euros. but last one purchased was in 2019
I would recommend them as a single bladed "working" item. I expect that they are available online The handle is aluminium with holes in it & they can be silver or lightly blued colour. very easy to open with the thumb, locking blade, Push button or a lever lock.
I know all about the legality, but if I am on my launch trying to lift a mooring & cut something free in choppy weather trying to open a knife, I cannot fuss around.
|Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder|
Chap on another forum sent cheque in August last year & is still waiting for drawings. Seems mail is taking its time- poor excuse if you ask me. Less reason to send a cheque.
I did that but they refuse to give an account number. Their bank charge 18 canadian dollars so margaret tell me. Seems guy & her are divorced so she does the dealing - Not sure of validity of that comment though.
Unfortunately I wanted the full version as reports that the mini falls short of a decent range & job.
I have just had an email from them & they refuse to give me an account No. Even if I telephone them for it. So there is no way i can transfer the money. Seems a bit weird, but clearly they do not want my custom. So unless I can source a second hand set somewhere I will have to drop the idea
Apparently the problem is Guy's end & they will not give me an account to pay into as it costs them money. According to the Nat West site, my end will do it FOC
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 09/04/2021 11:54:40
Do you still have the drawings & would they be for sale if you are in the Uk?
That may sort my problem if you no longer need them
|Thread: Source of 2 inch balls for water pump|
My pegsun pump had 3 inch rubber balls in it & it was 40years old & still going strong when I sold it. I suspect that rubber would seat better anyway. Perhaps a hard ball as the type one throws for one's dog to chew on might do the trick
|Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder|
I would also like to build this model ( please do not suggest other models in replying) & have been in touch with Guy Lautard who is willing to send me the drawings in PDF format for 50 canadian dollars. I can then print them out on 93 A4 sheets here in the UK. At least that should save surprise import duty etc
I have some castings off a woodworking machine that look almost identical to those in the plans.They can certainly be adapted
I wanted to pay by electronic transfer but have been told by his wife that she will not give me the IBAN account details for me to pay into. Understandable, I suppose, as she does not know if I am genuine. She says her bank will charge her a lot to accept the payment electronically.
Is that true & is payment by cheque from me, with a 25 day clearance time the other end, the only way I can do this? Will that then cost me a lot to get it cleared my end?
Has anyone experience of overseas payment, whereby I can pay someone who is not set up for paypal etc.
Come to that, has anyone got a set of plans I can buy to save the hassle
Has anyone any suggestions please
|Thread: Barrier Creams|
I like Rosalex which i bought years ago in a tub about 5 litres. I transferred it to a used Swarffega dispenser. I find that by squirting it onto my palms first I can work plenty under my finger nails which helps cleaning afterwards. I think black finger nails look awful.
For years I used to clean with Swarffega & some sand, but now they make it with a mild abrasive which is kinder to my aged hands
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 26/03/2021 10:41:31
|Thread: Is RSJ Steel machinable?|
My Warco lathe & M16 Mill both sit on standard Warco cabinets. 3 short lengths under the lathe cabinet & 2 under the mill cabinet raising them both 9 inches makes a h..ll of a difference to one's back after a couple of hours playing at either ( i am 6 ft 6ins tall) . Easy to bolt to the floor & to the cabinets & no flexing.
|Thread: Helical pencil sharpener blade replacement|
I know little of these things so forgive me if this is rubbish
If it is not cutting it is because the corner of the top to the vertical cutting edge has rounded- i would think that is stating the b..g obvious. But thinking it through & how it works, I would think that because the cutter sits at an angle the tip of the pencil does not actually reach the end of the cutter.
Therefore, instead of trying to grind the flutes why not put the cutter in the lathe & reduce the outside circumference by a thou. That should take the rounded corner off & leave a square, sharp edge. If done on the correct rotation it may leave a tiny burr but that would not be such a bad thing as it would be in the correct direction. It could be filed off.
With a smaller diameter the pencil will just go further into the unit. Hence, my comment above about how far the pencil goes in
The reduction could be done by rotating against a file or a stone perhaps. Others will know how.
If the reduction in diameter was an issue the mounting could be packed down by a suitable amount
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/03/2021 08:59:55
|Thread: What tool to use please|
that is the second suggestion of sub 100 RPM in this thread.I am not sure that the lathe can run with enough power at that speed as it is the variable speed version not belt drive. I expect 200 RPM will be minimum.
However, I will give it a go.in the morning but it will have to be very light cuts
Obviously I can only speak for mine , but I am Soooo disappointed with it.
I thought about that. I have a top quality 8 inch rotary table. However, the mill is a rubbish Warco m16. The vibration is ridiculous. Pretty useless for machining metal. Simple drilling holes is better done on my pillar drill.
Not after I have already cut a male thread on the end of my mandrel me thinks.
But why a bolt instead of a nut on a stud? What can the reasoning be behind that?
(At least I can push the tail stock to it if I want.)
Apologies. i needed to read your post again
But my mandrel is 45 mm at the back. So I very nearly got one bit right
But for the life of me --SHCS-- Brain fade perhaps ?????
I would love to comment to the contrary -- But Jason would not allow it
I started with it in the 4 jaw to bore the shaft hole. I then tried taking off some of the outer edge but with only 6mm held in the jaws I felt that i was in fro a piece of plate flying out across the workshop. Taking tiny cuts with a brazed cutter was just work hardening the material. So that is why i decided against leaving it in the 4 jaw. At least in a mandrel it is securely held. Perhaps I will cut the notches in the mill afterwards. I have to work out how to get sharp edges on them as well, so a ball cutter may be needed.
I have a Warco 240MV lathe & have removed the topslide. The 4 jaw chuck is permanently mounted on the cross slide for better rigidity. I have a variety of cutters (HSS, Brazed carbide & indexible)& because I have several of the following pieces to make, I might consider buying the right tool based upon advice received.
I am making a rope cutter for a prop shaft of a yacht out of 316 stainless steel. I am starting with 13 mm * 100 mm plate which I have cut to a rough shape with an angle grinder. then mounted it in a 4 jaw chuck, bored for the shaft. then mounted on a mandrel in a 3 jaw chuck.
I am now faced with a piece of stainless with a very rough hit & miss turning problem. I tried taking a piece off whilst still in the 4 jaw & it vibrated like h..l.
So my problem is what is the best toolbit -Type, end size, radius etc then lathe speed to get a reasonable cut & get it round.
Having done that I am going to turn it to 85mm diam & the cutting part will be 6mm the ( the boss is the 13mm) chamfered to a sharp edge.
In this edge will be 6 No semicircular notches 8mm diam ( so they will be 4mm deep) to aid cutting when it spins. So when i get to diameter I will drill 6 holes on the circumfrence then machine the edge . Once again I will have an interupted cut.
This may preclude my usual lightweight cheepo chinese disposable tips
So can anyone please suggest the best tooling for the job & if they added some idea of speed that would be great.
I am enclosing a picture of the disc in the lathe ready to go & a picture of a cutter that does NOT have the 6 notches to give an idea of what it might look like
|Thread: crane uprate - where would you add some metal ?|
Normally the limit on the ram is the power of the pump. That usually is the part that cannot deliver any more force. I have overloaded jacks & got to the point where the jack handle has just bent or the bracket to the pump has bent or the pump has let go & the ram has gradually sunk back
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