Here is a list of all the postings Sam Longley 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: An Uninvited Guest!|
I have a similar problem and a small length of ivy has just found its way into the shed. Unfortunately I cannot get to the main plant as it is on the corner of the wokshop within 12 inches of the boundaries of 2 other properties. The plant is right in the corner & is quite substantial. I can only get access from the top & it has already started to damage the gutter beneath my pitched roof. My roof is cementous corrigated pitched construction & balancing is difficult on crawling boards
Soooo!! Has anyone any ideas what is the best method of killing it off.. . I did try pouring dieisel down over the leaves with a spray can from above & I believe that slowed the growth. However, it has come back.
Any ideas welcome
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 26/10/2021 15:41:23
|Thread: Parting off - front or rear|
I no longer use the topslide on my Warco 250MV because everything is so flexible. I certainly cannot use the quick change tool post for anything other than with a light boring bar. I have a solid block of steel set on the cross slide with the 4 way tool post set onto that. It is about as rigid as one can get. I have made it so that most tools, such as indexible ones do not need shimming.
I have a 25mm deep cut off tool holder & I mount a 13mm* 2mm exide tapered steel blade in it. I just grind a bevel on the front that looks right & touch it up with a stone. The holder obviously does not fit in the tool post so I bolted 15 * 15 piece of bar on the side. I then milled it to 12 deep such that it fitted in the tool post & the cut off blade sits dead centre.It has a very slight curve in the bottom & by tightening the 3 clamp bolts unequally I can force the blade up or down .25mm as it rocks in the tool post by a few of thou. That gives me a solid holder in a solid tool post.
I find it works OK on steel at 180 RPM,with lovely curled chips if I can maintain an even feed. I would like to run slightly slower, but the lathe keeps stopping, as the variable speed is carp at low revs
As for cutting oil I find that chainsaw blade lubricant seems to work OK. I have found a particularly "sticky" one. Not sure of grade or make. They sell it locally
|Thread: Cleaning glass.|
The Rumanian guys at our local car wash do a brilliant job, inside & out. Fast as well.
I have not cleaned my own car myself for years.
Now my boat!-- that is a different story-- shines like the proverbial shilling up -- well you know what I mean
|Thread: Saving the Planet … or is it ?|
Which explains why I now have an extra 2 light pendants in my lounge & 1 each in the study & bedrooms, so I can still see due to the stupid dim light of these so called "efficient" light bulbs & why I now have to flush the water saving wc cisterns in my house 3 times to clear the pan, because there is insufficient water discharge per flush. Nothing like a bit of regulation to c..k things up
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 16/09/2021 21:47:12
|Thread: Not One but Two Odd items!|
Top one is a ruler, with inches on one side & milimetres & centimetres on the other half
|Thread: Problems in bending sheet aluminium to a 90 deg angle|
I would now lay a piece of wire or thin rod in the angle right in the bend & then push the upright just over centre. The wire acting as a radiused packing off the 90 degree former
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 07/08/2021 18:33:18
|Thread: Warco wm250v|
My lathe (250MV) would need to be turned off & on several times to get it to start & sometimes , if I did not press stop after a false "on", it would suddenly start when I was adjusting something in the lathe, with painful results. This happened 3-4 times. I had to remember to press the stop button every time that I wanted to do anything. It did do the stop, slow, go that the OP mentioned.
A part of the electrics, not sure what it is called, clips on to a sort of rail at the back of the component. I traced the problem to a bad connection where the component was not making proper contact to the rail. In the end I placed a block of wood against the component & the cover( held with some double sided tape) & screwed the cover shut , such that it forces the component onto the rail. Since then I do not get the problem very often & have not had a sudden start when working on the lathe.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/08/2021 13:02:01
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 06/08/2021 13:02:50
|Thread: 80mm milling vice|
When Mike follows the suggestions & machines these items to hold his vice , will he need to hold them in a vice?
Because "there is a hole in my bucket dear Lisa, a hole"
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 04/08/2021 08:19:46
|Thread: Bed stop clamp|
I am not sure if this fits the bill but i have a brand new myford multi position stop model 1483 still in its original box for sale
price £ 80-00 plus postage - It is quite heavy,
PM me if interested. I am based in ESSEX Uk post code CM0
|Thread: Tracy Tools Delivery|
The fact is that people praise suppliers for next day delivery. Quite by chance I ordered a tap from Tracy on sunday night & it arrived by post Tuesday morning & like David I did the job ASAP.
However, when my wife goes into a shop she expects to get served reasonably quickly. She does not expect to wait 3-4 days. One would expect the items to be parcelled up & given to the courier at the end of the days agreed cycle. So what is the difference? Is it that suppliers are getting so lax that we now applaud service that was once considered "normal"?
The difference is that the internet allows us to sit at home & order, rather than queue & the delivery system in this country is so good that goods arrive very quickly.
Surely it is that delivery system & the couriers that perform that should be applauded. Tracy tools are doing just what my wife would expect when she walks into any shop.. Exactly what her mother would have expected 70 years ago.
To push my point home:-
Will you be praising the local veg shop for serving you your potatoes as soon as you walk into the shop?
Yes, Courier companies are really good these days. Which one was it?
|Thread: How to turn this bush|
Job has been finished. Thanks to Bo'sons post above I followed the video by advanced inovations. The supplied tube distorted in the chuck so I started by turning a nut to the internal bore & forcing into the tube with a piece of studding. . This meant that I could clamp the work in the jaws 25 mm securely.
I turned a short piece of oilon as a test 25mm long to get the sizes correct for the shaft & the press fit into the tube.
I drilled the tube with a 1 inch drill bit,(this was still tight on the shaft as it was over 1 inch diam) then in one pass bored it to a clearance fit on the shaft that I required. I (26.2) then turned the outside right up to the chuck jaws in one single cut ( 28mm). So the bush was very thin.( walls .9mm) Overall length 80mm
I then advanced the work in the jaws of the chuck & because I had the piece of steel in the middle I was able to tighten down on a 12mm length. I then deep scored the work at the length for the top hat & finally cut the score with a hacksaw.
I used a carbide tipped boring bar as it was the only one long enough & a disposable tipped cutter for the outed diam. The big problem was the stringy swarf requiring regular stops to remove with scissors.
It all went well & a delighted customer left with 3 bushes fitted
Thanks everyone for their input
Lots of boats have delrin bushes.However, Nylon is a big No No.
here is an extract from Direct plastics on line data sheet
So I expect it to work Ok. But thanks for the comment
Good abrasion resistance
Good mechanical strength
Low coefficient of friction
Pretty good heat resistance
Good electrical and dielectric properties
Low water absorption
Brilliant link. Thanks for that . I had no idea how it could be done so easily ( for him anyway)
Much apreciated. Now to have a go
I have to make 2 bushes from Delrin. I have a piece of delrin tube 30 diam with 20 hole & 250 long supplied by client.
I have to make 2 top hat bushes to fit inside a rudder tube internal diam 28mm. Inside this goes a 1 inch rudder shaft. The bushes are to be 80mm long overall with the top hat part about 10mm long & 30mm diam The bush goes 70mm into the tube.
The tube is 4 ft long & I can put this & the shaft on my bench for fitting purposes.There is a bush at each end & the reason for the bush is that wear over 45 years has caused excessive play.
One can see that the bushes will have a wall thickness of 1.5mm so be very delicate.
I do have an expanding reamer that will ream the 1 inch Ok ( assuming I can ream Delrin) I have drills that are 7/8 diameter to bore the tube prior to turning out with a boring bar to a size that can be reamed
I did think of making an under sized mandrel. Boring the centre, mounting on the mandrel, turning the outside to a press fit in the tube then reaming to size to take the shaft.
Is this the way to go about it? If I get it wrong I do not have any spare delrin as I need the offcut of delrin for another bush
Can one ream delrin with an adjustable hand reamer? Any suggestions please
|Thread: Easy Start|
I know that this is not strictly a model engineering question, but lots of forumites work on engines, so I may get an opinion or a measured unbiased reply to something that is, by many , considered a myth. Many on this forum have years of experience so it seems a sensible place for opinion.
If Easy Start is used too often on an engine, does it get dependent on it. Does the Easy Start do any damage to the engine, or is the whole thing a myth.
|Thread: Lapping a cylinder with dowel + paste|
I am a little surprised that one would chuck the lap & hold the cylinder. Surely, as the cylinder , often being of irregular shape would be better in a 4 jaw chuck. Then if something jammed it is just a round lap that slips in the hand & not an irregular shaped lump of metal. Worse still if one then dropped it.
Of course it should never jam, but bad luck( put that down to inexperience) happens
I only ask out of interest, having never tried.
Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 25/06/2021 16:42:49
|Thread: Finding a penknife|
I buy the same model Smith & Wesson Extreme Ops knives every so often. I have had quite a few over the years & I buy them from a shop in Ostend. They do a model with a blade just under 4 inches & I have a couple of others with a much smaller blade. I use them for work-moorings, rigging, plus on my boat etc.. I find the steel very good. Cost ( in Ostend) is circa 35 euros. but last one purchased was in 2019
I would recommend them as a single bladed "working" item. I expect that they are available online The handle is aluminium with holes in it & they can be silver or lightly blued colour. very easy to open with the thumb, locking blade, Push button or a lever lock.
I know all about the legality, but if I am on my launch trying to lift a mooring & cut something free in choppy weather trying to open a knife, I cannot fuss around.
|Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder|
Chap on another forum sent cheque in August last year & is still waiting for drawings. Seems mail is taking its time- poor excuse if you ask me. Less reason to send a cheque.
I did that but they refuse to give an account number. Their bank charge 18 canadian dollars so margaret tell me. Seems guy & her are divorced so she does the dealing - Not sure of validity of that comment though.
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