Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Which Mill to choose for ISO 50 tooling|
I have had to get rid of my full size Italian Mill because I could no longer pick up the horizontal head or the interchangeable vertical head, because of a muscle wasting disease.
I am now looking for a smaller mill, however I have a huge amount of ISO 50 tooling and I would like to use this on a replacement mill. Am I right in assuming that there is little chance of finding a smaller mill that will take ISO tooling?
Hopefully I am wrong, if so, any suggestions of a mill that will take the ISO tooling?
|Thread: ML10 Hammered Paint|
A useful reference to Paragon paints, I will need to repaint my refurbished ML7, but sadly nothing for the grey ML10 finish
The Myford ML10 paint isn't the old Hammerite grey paint either. I have some from 1970 and also painted surfaces from the same date. The ML10 paint is darker than either old or new Hammerite.
P.S. I am looking up the old ME references right now.
|Thread: What is this ?|
If you put it on the Classifieds, then I would be interested in buying it.
|Thread: ML10 Hammered Paint|
As far as I know, the original ML10s were shipped with a hammered green paint finish. The latter ones were shipped with the dark grey hammered finish. I don't think Myford did any special finishes for the ML10, unlike the ML7.
Gordon, thanks for the mixing tip. I was going to give that a try, if I could not find the correct colour. From what I have seen of Myford's prices, I doubt I will be buying a small quantity of paint for hugely inflated prices! Especially as I have Hammerite grey and black hammered paints.
I have now got my ML10 set up correctly and it is a joy to use, having had very little previous use. The only niggling thing is that the previous owner had a penchant for putting dings in the paintwork! I find these blemishes irritating although in the big picture they are unimportant.
Does anyone know a source for the paint used by Myford? It is the hammered battleship grey colour that I am looking for. A search for the correct colour has proved fruitless. Hammerite is too light in shade and all the other hammered paint I could find was significantly different in shade.
|Thread: ML7 Main Bearing Oilers|
This has probably been done to death. However I am rescuing my ML7 and restoring it. It has broken oilers, so they need replacing. I remember that most people opted for the OEM oilers which I believe are still available?
I seem to remember that someone advocated those available from ARC Trading. There is a considerable saving going this route, so are the ARC oilers good for purpose. I know that a lot of cheap oilers have problems setting up the flow rate.
Thanks in advance,
|Thread: Chinese horizontal bandsaws|
Thanks for the description of the length stop on your Alpine saw. I took a look last night and found the 1/2" hole as you described. The grubscrew was found after digging all the swarf out of the hole. So now a simple matter of finding some round bar and the job is done.
I am seriously thinking of taking an angle grinder to the casting as you cannot extend the" top" guide without fouling the casting, when half way through a cut! I shall check that there is no other way around the problem before resorting to drastic measures,
I think I will copy Neil's solution to the awful tin legs! They are quite dangerous and when moving it during some building alterations, it fell on me. It wasn't much fun as I am disabled and couldn't move! Serves me right for trying to shift the saw with such a lousy set of supports!
I did have to machine one of the guides to get the blade vertical, so it wasn't all plain sailing. But very satisfying to see it work as it should, despite the awful design implementation.
My "Alpine saw did not come with a length stop and I cannot visualise where to mount such a device? maybe on or behind the fixed jaw? It would be a useful addition to the saw's repertoire.
I have taken heed of all the points raised and printed out the link to the 4 x 6 Bandsaw Tracking and Adjustment article.
I had a really good session of adjustment and modification and now the saw cuts to within 0.2mm on a 3 inch bar. The difference is dramatic! Thank you all, who pointed me in the correct direction. It was well worthwhile.
Just think how much labour I would have saved in the last 30 years if I had done the adjustments then! Now to sort out a decent base. The sheet steel legs are a disgrace and worth fixing now the saw tracks correctly!
THANKS TO EVERYONE!
Neil Thanks for posting the article on the chepo bandsaws. It would have saved me a lot of time if I had been able to read that first. I did not even get any "manual" with my Graham "Alpine" model.
Not having a quick eye for detail, it took me a while to figure out why the blade kept jumping off. I did eventually suss out how to cant the whee,l to stop this happening.
I am almost there with setting up the saw, but I will print out the article and just run over the words and music as I recheck the saw setup, I will machine one of the guides to get me that last bit of adjustment. I will also be taking an angle grinder to the casting, so that I can reduce the width between the guides without clobbering bits of the vice etc.
As the majority of people have said, it is cheap and cheerful saw. However it has saved a lot of hacksawing time for the various contributors. I was foolish to consign it to a dark corner of the shop for almost 30 years!
Thanks everyone for your help,
Thanks for the copious replies! Those of you who have the exact same machine, seem to have had exactly the same problem as myself! One or two of you have a similar problem with the "guide block" units which can angle the blade to the plane of the vice. I cannot get quite a 90 degree cut as I need to machine out the groove on one head as it just will not go far enough!
I concur with the "tighter the better" philosophy of the blade tensioner, fortunately mine doesn't need attention to the slideway. Damn good job as I could never lift the upper part of the saw onto a mill table!! Good quality blades are indeed a must, although I have fallen into the trap of using too fine a blade for cutting steel (If it cuts faster with a coarser blade, then it will be magic!)
Apart from the neat idea of replacing the "angle adjustment bolt" It seems most people are satisfied with the blade angle adjustment as it stands. I can well believe that it will be a useful tool once correctly set up.
I suppose I have been spoilt with having a 3HP professional hack saw (approx. 2 ft blade length). However I got rid of my big kit, because I could not pick up 10 inch chucks and 2ft face plates(Huge Colchester lathe) Nor could I change from vertical head to horizontal head on my big Italian Mill. My wife has also pinched a lot of my space during building operations last year!
Hello Dallas! I forgot you were a real professional machinist! I am setting up from scratch with smaller sized kit and I aim to refurbish a lot of old spark ignition engines. My latest acquisition is Ian Russell's Delapena hone, now that will be fun! Also I never even paid you for the old orange head Merco 35. Not even the postage! I must send you some cash before the pound nose dives yet again. Damn Brexit is going to cost us UK model engineers a fortune with increased prices. Buy now before the pound losses anymore of its value.
You were lucky! Mine cut at about 80 degrees instead of 90 degrees There are two sliding arms that support the blade with two horizontal ballraces and a top one for thrust. These sliding arms have an adjusting bolt at top rear of the arm, well, at least it is a crude locking bolt. Slackening these bolts off allow the unit containing the blade ballraces to swing from side to side, thus altering the angle at which the blade is presented to the work.
It is an absolute pain adjusting the units to get the blade at right angles to the work. I suppose once adjusted correctly (mine are not quite yet at 90 degrees) then one can forget about it. However such a crude adjustment goes against the grain and the urge to do something better is overwhelming!
About 1988 I purchased one of these dreadful machines from Graham Engineering. When I got it home I took a close look and decided that it was a load of junk. I tried cutting up bar stock and it took forever and cut was anything but at right angles! I quietly put it in a corner of my workshop and there it stayed until a few weeks ago.
I needed the space and I thought it is either going to work properly or it goes in the skip. I purchased a Starrett blade and lo it actually cut metal at a decent rate. After a lot of fiddling I managed to get it to cut at near right angles!
The so called adjustments are so crude, that it is difficult to adjust the saw correctly. However it does have a pretty massive bed and a decent motor and with a good blade, it cuts well. Has anyone figured out how to make the blade angle adjustments a little more refined? I am asking here as I do not wish to reinvent the wheel!
It strikes me that this could be a useful machine now that I am striken with a muscle wasting disease. Hacksawing stock isn't too easy for me these days. Wiser counsel may indicate the skip solution, for either the machine or myself!
|Thread: Levelling a lathe?|
Thanks everyone for your input. I now have sufficient information to both fix the stand and level the bed of my lathe.
If I had thought for a second or two I would have twigged how to "level" the lathe when it was not horizontal!
No when I said plane I did mean just that. Not horizontal! I thought from my first post that I was making sure that my bed was horizontal (yes I did mean that this time!) Or shall we say that the bed was all in the same plane and NOT twisted.
When I first set up a lathe many years ago. I ensured the bed was planer and not twisted. I then went on to do the turning of a long bar and checking for constant diameter. In this case the bar was not of a constant diameter. I knew the bed was not twisted so I did not waste time looking for a non existent twist. The error was a very strange one, but that is another story.
Thanks John (journeyman). Now that sounds a good idea!, Independent adjustment of each leg will get the lathe bed flat, without the fear of the packing material that I was I was considering, squeezing down with time. The cement would be good too but may get in the way of adjusting the nuts in a future resetting operation. I live in an area where we have had several earthquakes that have shook the house quite violently!!!!!!
Now you have confused me! What do you mean by "precision sensitive levels are used to check machines, not for levelling them"? I can't see the point of checking them with a level and not doing anything about it (I.E. actual levelling them, if not level.) You might as well not check with a level if you are not going to do anything about it!
Sorry if that sounds a little aggressive, it is not meant to be, I am just confused by your statement!
I have read several lathe manuals and they always seem to start with getting the bed "level". The implication is that you cannot do accurate wok if the bed is not completely level. I assume that getting the bed level means that there is no distortion in the bed which would impede accuracy. I am sure you could get the bed distortion to zero with the lathe not being flat, but quite how you would do this is quite beyond me.
|Thread: Magnesium Alloy|
You don't need to worry about doing drilling and tapping on a magnesium casting, unless your drill is totally blunt and ignites the stuff.
It depends a lot on the exact composition of the alloy. Magnesium with just 2% iron is non flammable,or maybe it was silicon, I can't remember right now and I don't have my notes here. It seems to be very difficult to get hold of. At least I cannot source it.
If you think you have a problem, I am casting the stuff! You should see the remote control set up that I have. If the argon atmosphere fails then I have somewhat bigger problems than you might have!
Before the engineering community comes down on me with much wrath. I might say that my casting setup is highly professional and is operated remotely. If anything did go wrong, then I am in a remote area free from housing or for that matter the melt is remote from myself! At least two people are present during a casting operation. So safety is absolutely paramount.
I would not recommend trying this for yourself, I still have not got a clean casting and I have put a lot of work into the set up. So much so that I can't give up now!
|Thread: Levelling a lathe?|
I am aware of how important this is to accuracy etc. My ML10 has now been stripped, cleaned greased and oiled and is looking a treat on its Myford stand!
The concrete floor of my workshop is far from level and the stand rocks alarmingly on two diagonally opposed stand legs! I DO mean alarmingly!
Now an old millright gave me a sheet of cork composite material many years ago. He said it was used under the feet or base of machine tools. Then when the raw bolts were tightened down, it was easy to level the working surface by tightening the raw bolts by the correct amount.
This seems to be a bit dubious on an ML10 and stand. I have no doubt you could get the bed level using a machinists spirit level. However the feet of the stand are only a little less than 2" x 2" and I fear the accuracy would soon be lost as the material settled.
I was thinking of making an area level, using self levelling compound, but this again seems to offer plenty of scope for error. What do members recommend to get my stand or rather lathe bed level? I am keen to get on with some urgent jobs, but refuse to use the machine in this state!
|Thread: Acceptable wear on leadscrews and nuts.|
Thanks very much indeed for your considered replies. A great deal of information there and I will take heed of what you say.
Thanks also for the information on oil guns and oilers!
I have just realised my ML10 is a ballraced headstock version. Now I seem to remember that these should be grease lubricated. If my memory is correct is there any particular grease? I assume that the carriage leadscrews should be oil lubricated, as the lathe came with an almost full container of Myford slideway oil.
Having got the lathe mounted and cleaned down, I am happy to report that wear appears non existent, except for a few bed dinges caused by a dropped chuck. At least I always put a wooden "shock absorber" under said chuck when I am putting on or taking off!
Thanks everyone for their help,
Not really a beginner but a lot to learn. I have just purchased an ML10 and wish to put it in good order. What is the acceptable wear on lead screws and nuts (Both the main lead screw for thread cutting etc and those on the carriage.)
I also don't seem to have the oil gun for the headstock, best place to buy one?
On my other lathe, an ML7,the oilers have been broken (not by me!). I believe the original ones were made by Adams(?). I have heard uncomplimentary stories about more modern replacements, so which are best to buy and a lead to the company?
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