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Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford change wheels
28/12/2016 17:25:53

I seem to have only half a dozen change wheel on my Myford ML7. From memory I seem to remember that there were 14 changewheels for an Imperial set. I have tried to work out what these should be. It is good practice at setting up the various threads per inch. However I cannot work out all the threads per inch. I have worked out 7 pitches, but I may have made an error or two and cannot work out all the pitches anyway!

So can you please tell me what comprise the Myford set of 14 changewheels?

Thanks in advance,


Thread: Chuck backplates, buy or make?
21/12/2016 16:26:24

I seem to have raised some interest as to why I want 5 backplates for an ML7 lathe. It is pretty simple, one 6" independent 4 jaw. Two 4" three jaw chucks (one precision Pratt Burnered for best and a tatty TOS one for rough stuff!). A three (soft) jaw chuck (invaluable when you need one!). Finally a Pratt Burnered six jaw precision chuck for delicate rings (mainly optical stuff).

The above collected over the years for the happy day when I could get started again!


20/12/2016 22:36:59

Thank you gentlemen!

I am glad you told me to cut the thread in the lathe. I must admit to being almost brain dead to even think I could tap it! That is precisely why I use the beginners forum. I don't mind making a fool of myself here! I think I shall purchase the backplates, I am not sure I could get the register absolutely correct.

Just as a matter of interest, why does everyone use cast iron for backplates? There must be a good reason, but right now I can't think of one.

Thanks everyone,


20/12/2016 19:55:29

I have 5 chucks that need backplates for use on my ML7 refurbishment project.

I note that Tracy Tools do a tap for the Myford backplate thread for not a lot of cash. Now I have done hundreds of tapped holes over the years, but never anything near as big as this!

Now 5 backplates ready tapped will cost well over £100, while the tap is around £20 from memory. Providing I can get the raw material at a reasonable price (steel or cast iron ?). It may make economic sense to make my own backplates.

I suppose it depends on the cost of the raw materials. What do the experts think

Thread: Myford S7 rebuild - a few questions!
16/12/2016 22:37:30

Hello Matty,

I will buy your cutoff slide if you want to sell!



Thread: Tailstock or carriage mounted tool holding turret?
16/12/2016 18:17:36

When I have my ML7 restored, I need to make a large number of a particular item. A capstan lathe would be an ideal solution, but I don't have one!

Which type of turret would suit the ML7 best? A 2MT, capstan style turret for the tailstock or the Myford horizontal style turret that goes on the carriage?

The Myford style turret would seem to be by far the easiest one to make, but are there any snags in using it? I don't want to make the effort of constructing one, only to find there are snags in using it! Comments please?


Thread: Myford lever collet chuck
10/12/2016 10:11:01

Hello Mike,

Thanks for the heads up on the Myford collets. I seem unable to PM you to give my thanks, so this is about the only way I can contact you!


Thread: Leadscrew concertina bellows.
08/12/2016 21:55:18

Hello Dallas,

Now what do I do? I reckon I have 10 years left so do I just keep the lead screw clean (plus the half nuts!) and let my heirs worry about lead screw wear? Or do I take up your offer of keeping a lookout for something suitable on your next toyshop visit?

If you do spot something suitable let me know and I will send the necessary shekels!

Best wishes,


Thread: Slotting a change wheel bore
08/12/2016 21:49:05

Thanks everyone for your help, Why is it that I can't think of even the simple answers like the drilled hole, bore and then use a swiss file on the half moon left? I fear that I don't have the muscles left to do a lot of filing!

Simon, many thanks for your kind offer, I live in Rutland so I fear it would be a postal job! I would prefer to make up a slotting tool , because A/ it will expand my number of tools and B/ it will give me much needed experience as a retread.

So it looks like a toss up between the Ian Bradley slotter and that from Mikes Workshop, oh and the College Engineering casting set.

Which of the many Ian Bradley books is this described in? I have a few of them and maybe this is where I saw the design.


08/12/2016 14:44:22

Going through an old cupboard, I found a rusty heap of change wheels. It is an odd collection as nowheel has the number of teeth on it, but for example 9-10 mm.

They are the same tooth size as Myfords and also thickness ties up. The bore is considerably smaller than the Myford bore.

I was thinking of boring them to Myford size and using them. The only snag is the keyway. How do you do this with the limited range of tools that I have at present. Basically an ML10 and most of the attachments for an ML7. I can think of ways to do the job but not with the kit I have available.

I did come across a slotting device which can be made (this one for an ML7). However I have no idea where I saw it. Can anyone help? I wouldn't mind making one up, I do miss my big power shaper!


Thread: Safety and superglue chucks
07/12/2016 11:13:41

I have used shellac for turning small parts on the faceplate of my Bolley watchmakers lathe for many years without a failure.

I would not use cyano glue. I am an aeromodeller and used cyano for a while, I have stopped using it because even the best, in date cyano produces a brittle joint. Any shock load and it breaks. Shellac on the other hand tends to give a little under shock loads and returns to its original position.


Thread: Leadscrew concertina bellows.
07/12/2016 11:06:03

Thanks gentleman,

Plenty of good ideas there and also some issues that had not occurred to me. I like the sound of the modified steel rule. Ok it does not cover the leadscrew completely, but it is an excellent 90% solution, far better than nothing at all.

Neils duster sounds a good idea too. I will mull all the suggestions over and stick the nail in the wall!

Thanks again,


06/12/2016 17:36:45

Further to my ML7 restoration, I am hoping to find some sort of concertina bellows to protect the leadscrew.

I need to make my ML7 last as long as I do!



Thread: Filling defects in cast iron
06/12/2016 17:33:00

Thanks Kwil!

No fool like an old fool, why didn't I think of that! Obvious when I think about it.


06/12/2016 16:38:36

Thanks folks,

Looks like I will be filing some cast iron. With a muscle wasting disease, that is going to take a long time!


06/12/2016 14:54:09

I have a Fobco drill and Myford milling attachment. They both have holes drilled in them, not by me I might add!

The Fobco has one hole in its table approx 5 mm in diameter and 3 mm deep. The Myford milling slide is peppered with small holes at the bottom of one tee slot. They form a group about 1/2 inch in diameter.

As none of these defects are in areas that normally get a lot of use, I was thinking of filling them with cast iron loaded epoxy and then sanding the areas down flush with the cast iron surface.

Anyone got any suggestions for a product to use? I know there will be people who will say it won't work long term. All I can say is that I have used aluminium loaded Devcon, applied as per instructions and it has been bombproof.

Unfortunately Devcon do not make a cast iron loaded epoxy!


P.S. I know it is only cosmetic. but it does irritate me to see such defects.

Thread: Cheap carbide tipped lathe tools from Proops?
01/12/2016 20:01:01

OK Gentlemen,

The Proops tools and tips are a no go. Gap at rear of tips and apparent lack of chip breaker and top rake rules them out.

This leaves me with a lot of Google searches that turn up hundreds of possibilities. Will someone put a nail in the wall and tell me what are a good combination of 1/4" tools and tips? Lots of general advice (apart from Riks 16mm tools). Any specific brands and suppliers that you can recommend? I am not looking for super finishes, just something for the roughing cuts . I don't want the very best industry standard at mega bucks!


29/11/2016 21:20:11

Thanks Mr Moderator! I didn't know how to provide a link to the Proops cheapos!

I wasn't suggesting for a minute that one should use the old fashioned brazed carbide tip tools. I merely mentioned them as the latest thing, thirty years ago!

I have been using some cheap carbide tips on a friends, much bigger, Chinese lathe. Depending on material and playing with cutting speeds they can yield a reasonable finish on most materials, but not as good as a keen HSS tool.

Looking at the Proops pictures, I cannot see much detail in the rake angles, but then my eyesight isn't what it was! So do I take it that they are no good for roughing cuts in steel?


Thread: chester vs Myford
29/11/2016 21:08:49

I wanted a small lathe to get restarted in model engineering. I could not wait for various refurb projects that I have underway.

I found an ML10 (ballraced or is it rollerraced?) for £500. It was in excellent condition, with a reasonable amount of tooling and the Myford stand to boot.

Lucky? I think not! You get inflated prices on Myfords on Ebay and at the dealers. I looked at odd "for sale" lists on various forums, such as the BMFA website (model planes) and various other similar hobby related forums. In a couple of months I found several lathes at reasonable prices and finally purchased my ML10.

A lot of people say that Myfords are over rated. Perhaps they are when you pay top prices, but they can be had for a lot less, then they make a lot of sense, compared with Chinese offerings.


Thread: Cheap carbide tipped lathe tools from Proops?
29/11/2016 20:49:49

A long time ago, when I was last doing model engineering, brazed carbide tipped tools were the latest thing. I always preferred a correctly ground HSS tool as it gave me a better finish on most materials.

Now I am a retread, I am tempted by the sets of very cheap lathe tools from Proops Bros of Fleckney. From the price, they cannot be of very high quality, but they have very cheap replaceable tips as a bonus.

I am considering buying a set to use for roughing out cuts and preserve my ultra sharp HSS tools for final cuts.

Is this a sensible thing to do? Are cheap carbide tipped tools a snare and delusion?


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