Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford ML10 (later model) lubrication|
I use lithium based grease from Castrol, but just about all the manufacturers will have a lithium grease in their range. Try Halfords as a start, but you can get it from motor factors, usually much cheaper too!
The first time I tried lubricating the bearings I rather overdid it and got grease all over the inside of the cover! Not good for the belt, that is for sure. I now open the cover and grease until I can see signs of movement around the rear roller. As to how often .......... well depends how much you use it. I would guess a good greasing would last about a 100 hours running. So it doesn't have to be done often. Although I am open to correction on this.
|Thread: Humbrol Paint|
I use Paragon paints which are the type of paints that would have been used on Traction engines etc. Good stuff and their UV clear makes the paint shine!
|Thread: Reaming morse taper sockets|
Thank you everyone,
Very good advice, which I will follow. I will keep the reamer until last and use it to remove any 'dings' that may be standing up (this being a last resort!)
I will in the near future, have to make several tapered bores. I intend to offset the topslide and bore a previously drilled hole to get the basic taper. I will have to use a taper reamer to finish the job, all this in mild steel. My previous question of how one finishes the reaming process is still unanswered and hopefully someone can tell me how to finish off the taper, to avoid potential steps left from the reamer?
As an aside, somewhere (probably Tracy Tools), I have seen advertised a drill to drill morse tapers. The mind boggled at this, suspecting an April fools joke. However I have to believe this is serious. So how does drilling compare to boring a taper. If the addled memory serves me right, the drills were not overly expensive.
I don't expect to be doing this often. Once the tapers have been cleaned up, I intend them to stay that way. Prior owners have not done this, hence the difficulties.
If the reamer lasts to do 4 Morse taper sockets, then I care not if it is blunt at the end of the job. I would rate £3 to have each MT cleaned up to be money well spent.
However if you are saying that the reamer cannot do the job, because the tapers are likely to be too hard, then how would you do the job? Maybe using a tapered lap?
Thanks for that suggestion, it does seem simpler than making up a lap. If the bore is corroded, it will take some time to shift that! Well worth while to do as you suggest, at least I will be able to see if I do have any significant rusting.
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 24/01/2017 21:19:34
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 24/01/2017 21:20:17
The morse taper sockets on both of my lathes are filthy and appear to have some corrosion to boot. So I have just purchased an MT2 reamer and was about to start the job, when it occurred to me that I really did not know a lot about hand reaming, although I have done some parallel hand reaming with somewhat variable results!
OK, I must clean up the tapers as best I can, before starting. I also know that you need to cut meta,l rather than rub the flutes gently. So using a taper reamer, one should push and twist firmly I suppose? When bright metal is seen all over the tapered area, it is time to stop, However if one just stops after a positive push and turn, then one is likely to end up with 'steps' at the point that the flutes stop.
Should one then take the final cut by gently reducing the pressure on the tapered reamer to zero?
Sounds like a pretty dumb question, but most elementary texts seem to skip the basics, when it comes to using reamers.
|Thread: Slitting saws, How does one retain them on the arbour?|
Thanks for the help so far. Let me answer a few questions that have been raised.
I am using a slitting saw and arbour together with my vertical slide, because I don't have a mill. The smallest width slot is just under 2mm and I suppose I could use a milling cutter in the lathe chuck. However I suspect the number of broken cutters would be too much for my patience or pocket.
The second (new) blade, if I can call it that (the part of the key with tumbler slots in it) appears to be either welded or more likely silver soldered into the keyshaft. The blade does go into a slot on the keyshaft and my preferred method of fixing it would be silver solder, on second thoughts.
I have to produce a mirror image of the existing blade and they are separated by 10mm on the shaft, hence I cannot silver solder a blank in and then use a slitting saw. This is because the "blades" have slots on both sides. Milling would be OK but not for me!
The size of the blades is 20mm long (from the shaft), 12mm wide and thickness varies from 10mm at the shaft to 16mm thick at the other end (it tapers both sides). To finally cheer me up, the end furthest from the shaft is finished in a neat semicircle.
The narrowest slot is just under 2mm wide and 6mm deep. There are 14 slots in all, 7 on each "blade" (Can someone tell me what the correct name is for my "blade"?).
|Thread: Where can I find the "code" for indexable tips|
A real wealth of information there, thanks everyone.
Vic, you are quite correct in saying there are 10 x 10 sizes of holder in the web site you pointed me too. They are few and far between and don't seem to cover my simple requirements. The one you illustrated has a very long taper and I would have thought to be a risky bet for cutting through a cast iron skin. I will spend more time going through their offerings to see what other small shank tools they do. Worth the time spent as they do appear to be superior to the usual medium price offerings.
Jason, thanks for your lead, I will follow it up.
As an aside, I have been parachuted into the indexable tool system after 30 odd years of not touching a lathe! I have used some of the carbide tips on a bigger lathe belonging to a friend. The finishes that I get are not up to what I would expect from a good, sharpened and formed HSS lathe tool. My friend openly admits to buying cheap Chinese tips, so is this the reason for the poorish finishes, or as I suspect, a HSS tool for our ME use gives a superior finish?
I have just looked at the APT site. The indexable tools look a much better job than most. I was enthusing until I realised that the smallest too holder was 16 x 16 mm ! too big for my ML10 or indeed the phoenix ML7 that is taking shape slowly.
Thank you all, for the above information.
When I said tools look much the same, I was referring to the tool holders rather than the tips themselves. They all seem to be around £20 each and I can't see much difference between them from the photos. The tips are a different matter. I strongly suspect that you get what you pay for!
I want to buy some indexable tool holders and tips. I need them for getting through the skin of some castings. The coding must be comprehensible to our more experienced forum members, But I don't have a clue! Is there anywhere that I can find definitions?
The median priced tool holders from such as Chronos, ARC Eurotrade and Rotagrip, to name a few, seem much of a muchness. They look as though they came out of the same factory in China. Does anyone find one source better than another? I can't see the point of going for something like Sumitomo and other upmarket tool holders for rough work, or are they worth the extra long term?
|Thread: Slitting saws, How does one retain them on the arbour?|
I have the task of repairing a Victorian church key. It has two mirror image pieces (the ones with slots in them to engage the tumblers). One of the pieces has broken off and I need to replicate a mirror image of the existing one and weld it to the key shaft.
I intend to use a slitting saw on an arbour between centres, to cut the slots. The slots vary in width, the measurements being 3/32", 1/8" and 1/4" The steel will be held in a vice mounted on a vertical milling slide on the saddle of the lathe.
Now that sounds professional. BUT I do not have a clue about the arbour and how the slitting saw is fixed thereon! Most of the small slitting saws have an ID of 1" which would do me nicely. Help on this one would be much appreciated!
The key had been repaired before and the broken (now missing) piece had been brazed on. I shall get rid of all traces of bronze and mill a slit in the key shaft to receive the new part and I intend to weld it in place.
What type of steel would one be advised to use? Bearing in mind that the final welding operation will probably soften the new steel replacement.
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 15/01/2017 14:15:18
|Thread: Welding Gas|
The old steel Sodastream bottles were phased out in favour of aluminium units a few years ago. They did refill them if I went to their Peterborough premises and would fill them on the spot. Even this is now no longer available.
I solved the problem by buying a hefty cylinder of CO2 from Ebay and made up my own refilling rig. I think the CO2 cylinder will last me for the rest of my life. CO2 motors don't exactly use large amounts! Even my converted Cox engines and the big triple Gasparin Anzanis don't take all that much.
|Thread: Washing machine motor|
Thanks gentleman for your replies. I am not too bothered about the electronic side of controlling a series wound motor. I have enough experience to cope with that. It was other nasty things such as the caution about explosion risks with fine dust and series wound motors. I had not thought of that one!
The MEW articles sound interesting as it might well be better than my usual SCR type of control. I will contact Robbo on that one, unfortunately I don't have the said articles.
I am familiar with the fact that it is series wound and needs a speed controller, or at least a "power" controller. I have run smaller series wound motors with an SCR control.
I am scrapping out a washing machine. I have taken off the pump as I have a use for that.
Is the electric motor worth saving? I could do with a motor to power a linisher that I have sitting on the shelf. I can probably work out the connections to motor. Is there any reason why it is inadvisable to use it for the linisher? I appreciate that it would need to be shielded, as they are hardly electrically safe as they stand.
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 12/01/2017 20:15:58
|Thread: Advice/Help needed to disassemble ML7 headstock spindle|
I too would be interested to know how to do this. I have my ML7 mandrel out of its bearings and looking at it, maybe one needs to press off the gears? I can't see any other easy answer.
|Thread: "Tang" on the end of a male Morse taper?|
My sentiments entirely!
I have made a big mistake! Andrew is quite correct in what he says, The tooling socket is always in coaxial alignment with the lathe (chuck) axis! Providing it is in one of the detent positions!
I had checked previously and for some idiotic reason thought that the axes did not align. So egg on my face and some embarrassment too! I think that my current medication has a lot to do with my errors. Maybe I should be very careful when using rotating machinery. The medication definitely says that I should not. A very depressing thought!
Apologies to everyone for time wasting,
Your capstan unit has the axis of rotation of the toolholding disc at right angles to the lathe axis. Mine is at approx. 45 degrees to the lathe axis, just like a dedicated capstan lathe.This explains the difference, I hope!
My apologies for not describing the turret alignment correctly in the first place!
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 07/01/2017 12:06:09
Emgee, that is exactly what I would do to align a tool position of the turret, to the axis of the lathe. Those of you who doubt that any alignment is required, please think again! The turret rotates between indented positions. So if one tool happens to be on lathe centres (highly unlikely) then rotating the turret around the MT will most certainly put it off alignment. Simply by inserting the turret into the MT and rotating the turret about the axis of the MT will show this to be true.
I have probably made a poor description of the turret and hence the incorrect answers! I should have realised that the tang was for ejection purposes only, in conjunction with a slot in the female taper. Heavens knows that I have done this enough times! The brain seems to fade when confronted with simple model engineering problems. Very odd as I am up to speed on my other (practical) hobbies. I suspect that I get overawed by things machine tool!
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 07/01/2017 10:45:56
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