Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford Beds?|
Thanks for all the information. I believe it was Chris Dooley. The gent from Lincolnshire sells beds on Ebay so I am sure it is not him!
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 23/04/2017 20:53:19
A while ago, it was said that a gentleman who dismantles Myford lathes, did not sell on the beds, because of the weight involved.
A friend of mine wants a bed to have reground. His current bed has been damaged and is beyond regrinding.
Can anyone tell me who the gentleman is and a possible contact number? I have searched the threads and cannot find the reference!
Thanks in advance,
|Thread: Myford 10 accessories|
I am a touch puzzled by the quick change toolpost. Are we talking about the Dickson type or the Myford boat type holder?
If it is the Dickson type, then I have one each of the Myford Dickson QCTP on an ML7 and ML10. The ones I have were recently manufactured by a guy who used to make them for Myford.
The only snag is that if using a Myford QCTP on the ML10, then you are restricted to using tooling which is 6mm square, unless you mill a bit off the bottom of the tool holders. The ML7 can use 10mm square tools, maybe a touch more.
|Thread: Rust Removal|
I use hot diluted phosphoric acid and that works well too.
I am restoring a Delapena hone (as well as other kit). I wanted to Photoshop the Delapena logo, because the transfers on my machine were damaged. So I thought "photoshop". I gave up, because learning the system for a "one off" was just too much. I have redrawn the logos and painted them by hand. I now have to get them put onto a decal or transfer medium.
P.S. I know that the logos do not contribute to any improvement in honing. my philosophy is that if I restore to "as new" standards. Then I tend to keep the machines in first class order. I don't have the urge to do this if the finished product looks "tatty", even if it is functionally perfect! OK so I am a bit of an idiot, but I don't care.
|Thread: Checking lathe alignment?|
Thank you Hopper,
Those tests have been done with the exception of checking the vertical height of the bar. All done during the levelling process for the bed. I shall go back and check the vertical alignment. Both the lathe bed and saddle have been reground, so these should be fine.
Thanks for an excellent and very clear explanation of how to do the job. I am a trifle annoyed with myself for not working it out myself. I suppose there is always the thought that the job involves some wizardry, but it is straightforward logical thought. Not a strong point with me at the moment due to some pretty strong medication!
Thanks once again,
I am slowly rebuilding my Myford ML7. Next problem is how do ensure that the mandrel axis is aligned to the tailstock centres and also the latter two adjustments parallel with the lathe bed shears?
I ask because I have refitted the lathe with new white metal bearings. I did ask about refitting new bearings but got no advice from forum members. So I am not sure that I have done the correct fitting method.
|Thread: Bronze, Phosphor Bronze, Cast Iron or Graphite for LTD Stirling bearing|
I have had some graphite which was in my materials cupboard for many years. I had reason to use it a year or two back. Yes it was very messy, but machined very well indeed (super finishes). So my experience says go for it! The only snag is that I don't know what grade it was. I was told it was pure graphite whatever that means.
|Thread: Jenkin Steel|
I have used an Ebay supplier for some material. It was a good price and I noted down the EBay shop for further reference.
I was a little surprised to receive an email from the supplier saying that he now had an e commerce site up and running with the aim of supplying small quantities of material for the likes of us, without the dread Ebay charges!
I think that we should support this venture and the e commerce site is to be found at www.jenkinssteelonlinemetals.co.uk. There is currently a 5% discount if you simply type in ebay at the checkout.
They are situated at Cramlington, Northumberland for those that are local.
I have no connection with the company other than as a very satisfied customer.
|Thread: Dore Westbury 5" machine vice?|
It was lowish profile, had a very wide opening and didn't suffer from the usual jaw riding up on tightening. I may have rosy specs, but I was impressed at the time.
Thanks for the information. It seems that I am doomed in the search for a kit. Maybe someone has the drawings?
A great pity that both the Quorn and the Dore Westbury vice are no longer kitted, both are well worth making. I was eyeing up the Quorn as a long term project and the Dore vice as a do it now job. Looks like I am out of luck.
Does anyone know if the kits for the above are still available? I did a Google search and turned up nothing on suppliers. Maybe there is a machine drawing for them?
I once had the use of one of these vices and found it to be remarkably good.
|Thread: How to contact an advertiser?|
I want to contact an advertiser here, called Rich Platt, he doesn't leave any contact details. I tried a PM to Rich Platt and got an answer back from someone else!!!
|Thread: Myford paint colour|
Most of the ML7s that I have seen have had the Myford lettering picked out in red. I have also seen a couple with white lettering.
As I am repainting my lathe, I may as well get the lettering colour correct, so is it white or red?
This is for the standard grey ML7.
|Thread: Boxford BUD restore|
I would chuck a long bar maybe a foot or 18 inches. Set up a DTI on the lathe bed and position it so you can grip the bar and push it fore and aft. Then reposition the DTI to measure vertically and push the bar up and down. You can also reposition the DTI on the end of the bar and push and pull along the lathe axis. This should measure the end float
If the DTI only registers a thou or two, then you know the bearings are good. The problem comes if the measured play is a good bit greater than this. I think each one of us would have their own ideas on the allowable amount of play, before the headstock and bearings needed attention!
|Thread: Martin Cleeve's Dog Clutch|
All information has been absorbed, looks like I need Graham's book before I start this one! It will be some considerable time before I will be able to do this job, meanwhile I shall have a good read up!
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.
|Thread: Who supplies indexable tools for screwcutting.|
Simple question. I have been screwcutting with HSS bits, jig ground to the correct angles. I am reasonably pleased with the results. I just thought that I would give an indexable carbide tool a go for comparison. I am having difficulty in finding a supplier for the tip angles required.
Anyone point me in the right direction?
|Thread: Where to buy module one gears?|
I am looking for a module one 50 and 40 tooth gears. I have a 127 and wish to use them for metric screw cutting on a Myford.
|Thread: Martin Cleeve's Dog Clutch|
The microswitch idea sounds good! I am always a bit bothered by instant reversing in case the chuck comes off. I know it is only at slow speed, but the chuck / work inertia must still be a bit on the high side!
Making the dog clutch seems to be a most interesting project in itself, so I may well go ahead in the future, but will try the instant reversing first.
The references above are for a Myford Super 7, are there any snags with modifying an ML7.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.