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Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Where can Iget backissues of MEW
06/05/2017 14:20:16

Hello,

Do the publishers do back issues of MEW or does one have to go to people like Tee publishing. A link to MEW publishers would be good too.

Thanks,

Andrew.

Thread: Removing Stud Extractor
06/05/2017 12:35:12

I always get the oxyacetylene on the offending stub. get it really red hot! After cooling I have had a lot of luck with using a vey small chisel and suitable hammer, just get the chisel embedded in the periphery of the stub and keep tapping, never failed yet. This will only work if the stub is relatively large in diameter.

Whenever I mix acetone with ATF fluid, they immediately separate into two layers. What brand name ATF are you using, so I can try it as a penetrating agent. It is highly spoken of, but I never had any success in mixing the two.

Andrew.

Thread: Truing up chucks
06/05/2017 12:25:22

Thanks for the replies. For some idiotic reason, I assumed that the three adjusting screws were in the backplate! Obviously they have to be in the chuck body. Talk about having a one track mind!

Interesting that so far, no one thinks this is worth doing. If the run out is a thou or two then its OK. If greater than this, then use the 4 jaw. The inference I get from this is that a Burnered Grip tru is a waste of money! I bet that will upset quite a few people!

I have an old American chuck that isn't too good in the run out stakes, jaws and scroll seem good too, so I may well try this tip out. I don't have anything to lose.

I have a Czech chuck that came with my ML10 lathe This one is a puzzle, Measuring the run out at the work, gives just under a couple of thou. However when running, the periphery of the chuck body has a huge run out! I have not measured it, but I would guess about 20 thou! A neighbour of mine came in while I was using the lathe and the first thing he said was "There is something wrong with that chuck, just look at the run out!". I am now hijacking my own thread!

Andrew.

06/05/2017 11:38:11

I recall reading recently about getting three jaw chucks to run true, I think it was either George Thomas or professor Chaddock, who advocated that a back plate should be turned under size and the 3 bolt fixing holes to be made somewhat larger than necessary.

This would enable one to set the chuck to have minimum (zero?) run out. I think there was even mention of using 3 screws on the backplate periphery to give a grip true type adjustment. I cannot visualise how this would work in practice.

Now all of this sounds heresy to me! I have always read and been told that the backplate should be turned to exactly a push fit into the chuck. However if such luminaries advocate a poor man's grip true chuck, then I am hardly in a position to complain!

What are peoples views on this heretical claim? More important, how would the 3 adjusting screws be made to work?

Andrew.

Thread: Bed regrinders?
05/05/2017 09:55:44

Hello,

I should be picking up a Myford ML7 bed in the next couple of weeks. I have a local guy that can do a regrind. However I would like to know of other firms that could do the job. Quality first, price second!

Andrew.

Thread: Steve Bedair Ball Turner Build
05/05/2017 09:51:30

Hello.

It does look to be a very neat ball turning attachment. I was thinking of building the Radford version, but I am not too sure now! Anyone like to comment on the relative merits of the two designs?

Andrew.

Thread: TAPS, spiral or std
01/05/2017 12:54:23

I have both carbon steel taps and HSS, I can't tell the difference in use and I have yet to wear out any carbon steel taps. For hobby use I don't think it matters as long as they are decent quality.

Tubal Cain's tapping drill sizes are the way to go, Using the manufacturers chart's suggested hole size, is a recipe for breaking taps.

Andrew.

Thread: Boring between centres
30/04/2017 19:44:00

Hello Clive,

Many years ago I used a boring bar which had a "micrometer" adjustment for the tool. This made life a lot easier and I could bore without the usual sweat and finger crossing. I have never seen one since, but having looked in GHT's book on workshop practice. There is one described there, the type I used is much more like the ones shown in the Hemingway catalogue. It certainly beats the slacken off, pray move cutter , pray again and then tighten cutter!

Andrew.

30/04/2017 17:55:47

One of the first jobs I need to do when my ML7 is together (at long last), is to make and use a boring bar.

I have seen several photos of between centres boring and they always show the boring bar held in the 3 jaw chuck and a live centre at the tailstock end. I was a bit bothered about the associated run out of a 3 jaw. However I did satisfy myself that even if the bar is running out of true at the chuck end, any boring of items on the saddle would be unaffected by this.

Or have I missed something? Maybe a second order effect? I still have the urge to use the 4 jaw and get the bar running true at the chuck end. Is this a waste of time as I suspect it might be?

Andrew.

Thread: Which is the best diameter for an ML7 Leadscrew.
30/04/2017 17:47:58

Thanks Clive,

I was aware of the likely problems with the half nuts, which need renewing anyway. If there is no real advantage with the thicker lead screw, then discretion is the better part of valour!

Thanks,

Andrew.

30/04/2017 16:09:06

Hello,

I will be putting a new lead screw on my ML7 as part of its long drawn out rebuild. I will be buying the item direct from the manufacturers in Hull.

It did dawn on me that I could put either the early or later (thicker)lead screw onto the lathe. I shall have to turn the ends of either lead screw on my friends larger lathe.

Is there any advantage in going for the thicker (later) lead screw or conversely what are the downsides of such a move. I have certainly got the bearings for the older lead screw and I probably have them for the thicker lead screw amongst my pile of Myford spares.

Andrew.

Thread: Staking tool problem?
29/04/2017 22:35:25

Oh Dear, embarrassed again! I have retried the locking of the shaft via the large screw. This time I found that it does clamp the table. My apologies for the false information. The pointed locking shaft could not have been entering the large dimple on the main shaft, on the previous time that I tried it!

So I have two alignment methods, the first being the movable table and the second being the eccentric bush that hold the tools! So why are there two methods of alignment?

Apologies for false information (read incompetence for that!),

Andrew.

29/04/2017 20:06:30

Thanks everyone,

I still don't understand what is going on!

Speedy, I do like your staking tool. The press is rather a bonus. It looks as if the "press mode" is centred in the middle of the rotating table. Quite how you use the staking tool to operate on the peripheral "anvil" positions I really can't understand. Maybe it is a trick of the photograph? I am intrigued by the clamping arrangement at the anvil positions, at least that is what they appear to be? Certainly your staking tool is a lot more versatile than mine. I am quite envious, wish I had one like that!!!!!

Jimmeh, thanks for the photographs. Your staking tool looks great in chrome finish! Far better than my pea green crackle paint! Seriously I can see that your rotating table has a larger counter bore than the diameter of the shaft head, so it can move around in the same way as mine. The locking arrangement for the shaft is similar in concept to mine. But here is the rub, when I lock my shaft, the table is still free to move, which isn't the way your tool works!

It would appear from the photos that the position of the hole that takes the staking tool is fixed and the tool's position cannot be adjusted in any way. Whereas my version goes into a shaft housing that is eccentric and this enables it to move radially.

Maybe for some odd reason I have both means of adjusting the stake position relative to the "anvil" holes. But not being able to lock the table position is a touch worrying.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

29/04/2017 16:15:20

Hello Michael,

Yes indeed it is a commercial item and quite well made. The only thing I don't like is the pea green wrinkle paint!

Speedy, the one you are showing is very similar. Yours has some overhang at the top (not sure what that is!). Essentially the same with minor differences.

I am not convinced that the table ought to do anything but rotate, I can't see any reason why it should. The staking tool goes through its bearing at the top of the machine and the bearing is eccentric, so the tool can be moved in a radial direction to the table, to line up accurately with the anvil (not sure if it is the correct term!). So being able to slide the table back and forth is not required with this set up!

I am not an horologist, but I know my way around mechanical clocks, having dismantled a couple into their individual parts and rebuilt them rebushing bearings where necessary. I have borrowed a friend's staking too land that one has the table rotating about centres, not the odd behaviour of the recent purchase!

I am sure a dedicated clock builder could answer my queries if there are any out there!? If there are, then maybe they could point me to a decent book on using a staking tool. I have a copy of a 1910 US book, but it really doesn't tell you much. There is another more recent book available to download, but it won't download for me!

There is little point me learning the ins and outs of staking the hard way, if there is a decent book that would get me up to speed. My previous attempts at renewing bushes seemed to work, but I am not sure if it is the approved method!

Thanks,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 29/04/2017 16:17:30

29/04/2017 13:21:12

Hello,

I have some clock repairs to do and I acquired a staking tool and the necessary tools to go in it.

Now I have a problem. The rotating table has a hole through the centre and a larger recess in the top of the table. The table is held by a shaft which has a larger head at the top. When this is assembled and locked in place via a pointed rod, forced into a similar hole on the shaft via a threaded knurled screw. I find that the table can move in any direction!

Looking at the shaft once more, I found a square groove just below the head. It just so happens that the recess in the top of the table allows the table to move in the shaft recess and hence is not positively located.

I will need to make a thick "washer" to fit into the groove in the shaft and have its OD the same as the counter bore in the table top. The washer will need to be cut in half, in order for it to fit in the shaft groove.

None of this presents any difficulty. My query is why has this been done? The flange on top of the shaft is quite a bit smaller than the counter bore on the table. This all adds to my confusion! Why not make the flange to be the same size as the counter bore and then the table would turn sweetly on the shaft?

The staking tool holder is bored off centre and can rotate to give perfect alignment of the tool with the appropriate table hole.

Is the table meant to flop about without being centred? I really cannot believe that, but why this odd system? I assume the split washer is essential for correct operation of the table and has been lost. Or more likely I am missing something about how a staking tool operates.

Hope someone can explain this,

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 29/04/2017 13:23:43

Thread: Magnesium alloy sources.
28/04/2017 20:58:33

Anyone know of a source of magnesium alloy? My old supplier has gone out of business.

Andrew.

Thread: Rust Removal
25/04/2017 14:44:42

Hello again,

I think the recent post on rust removal using a non acid chelating agent is the best bet, but I can't find the thread!

Andrew.

25/04/2017 14:43:11

Hi Martin,

I am sure it does attack the steel, but only if you leave it in too long. It seems to go for the rust first. I did put in a large reamer with some rust on it. I left it in too long and the bright steel went a satin colour, but the rust was long gone.

I purchased 5 lts of conc stuff on Ebay. I dilute this down approx. 10 to 1 with very hot water and dump stuff in. It seems that hot is the key. Once it has cooled down a bit, then you can fish stuff out by hand and the acid doesn't affect my skin!

Andrew.

Thread: Modifying collets?
24/04/2017 21:05:11

Thanks Martin,

I think this must be my 3rd reply to you. The others have disappeared in cyberspace! Your reply makes it all clear!

Just one query, what would you use to grind the very small sizes of collets, say 1/16", some sort of diamond burr?

Thanks,

Andrew.

24/04/2017 14:31:19

I have an almost complete set of Imperial Hardinge collets and quite a few duplicates. If Sod's law dictates that I need one of the "missing" collets. Is it possible to "bore" out one of the smaller duplicates and manufacture the "missing" size?

If so, how would one go about doing this operation? I assume that the Hardinge collets would be quite hard, does this mean some form of grinding? or could one bore and ream? Quite what the edges of the splits would do to reamer, I hate to think!

OK, this is a hypothetical question, which hasn't arisen yet, but I am interested to see if the job is doable. Usually I never have the size I want of anything!

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 24/04/2017 14:32:04

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