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Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Truing up chucks
09/05/2017 12:04:22

Hello Neil,

Disassembly and cleaning was the first thing I tried on the old Cushman chuck, No problems were encountered with swarf or other debris, just oil that seems to have got there when using an oil can for lubricating metal while turning. No improvement in accuracy was found on reassembly. I do agree that this should be the first port of call if a chuck starts to run out suddenly.

I suppose my reference to grip true chucks was a bit tongue in cheek. I never expected the modification to produce that sort of accuracy! You certainly can reduce the run out to near zero for a particular job. After all, the modified chuck is a crude 4 jaw in effect (having 4 adjusters at 90 degrees to each other) . But no one in their right mind would do this if they had a 4 jaw to hand!

To repeat my findings, the average run out was approx 3 thou, for chucked pieces from 0.5 to 2.0 inches in diameter. So I certainly achieved my hoped for run out on the old chuck. It worked for me and was not a big job, highly recommended for chucks that are getting a bit tired in the run out department!


Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 09/05/2017 12:06:03

08/05/2017 22:17:51

Hello Everyone,

I finally got the job finished and checked out. I used 4 adjusting screws as advised. I have set the screws for the best average run out on diameters from approx. 0.5 to 2.0 inches in diameter. I am very pleased that I have beaten my hoped for improvement of average run out. It is now around 3 thou. This from the above range of diameters and repeating the rechecking operation several times.

So the old Cushman chuck can deal with the rough old turning jobs with improved accuracy. In my case it took about 3 hours to do the job and much longer to assess the run outs before and after the mod, I kept getting interrupted by the grandchildren! Certainly worth a try if you have a similar chuck that is in the same sort of condition.


Thread: Another grinding question.
08/05/2017 21:31:42

Hello Clive,

I agree you need three rough surface plates to finish up with 3 excellent finished ones. However I have one good and one rough plate. So you just scrape the second plate using the good one as a reference.

The method of doing the three plates is told in the excellent little book from Tee publishing, it is called Elements of Fitting, or some similar title.


08/05/2017 21:26:32

Hello Tim,

I never mentioned oil retention at all! This came from another member!



08/05/2017 21:24:37

Hello David,

Now that sounds an interesting offer! My daughter lives in Nottingham, so maybe I could surprise her too with a visit!I have some transport problems right now but should be mobile in a week or so. Perhaps I could take up your offer then?

I will PM you.



08/05/2017 19:30:35

Hello Chris,

What is wrong about that? Each to his own, I say! Why even bother wasting ones time doing model engineering? Yes it is the satisfaction of doing the job, be it scraping or anything else.


P.S. I don't have a mill!

08/05/2017 18:54:16

Looks as though I should go the scraping route, it should keep me off the street!


08/05/2017 17:30:05

Hello David,

I just saw your post, I am located in Rutland, just about midway between Leicester and Peterborough.


08/05/2017 17:28:08

Hello Dave,

Thanks for putting me right about precision surface grinding. It has been many decades since the old timer said scraping was more accurate, so that all ties up!

It was getting on for maybe 35 years ago when I started doing some model engineering. Looking at my notes (amazing that I still have them). I asked the very same question on a forum, about the very same pitted surface plate. I asked about precision grinding to rectify the pitted areas and was torn to pieces by people who said that the only real way to get accuracy was to scrape it! Personal circumstance changed and I have only recently come back to the fold so it looks as though things have changed over the intervening years, which I suppose is hardly surprising! At least this time, the job will get done either by precision grinding, or milling out the corroded area and scraping!


08/05/2017 17:14:29

Hello Martin,

I am sorry that I misunderstood your final sentence. You may have a point about milling to get rid of the pits and then scraping to get a good surface. I am still unsure about the accuracy of surface grinding compared to a scraped finish, using a really good surface plate as a reference. My very experienced engineer of the old school (now long since dead), was quite adamant that scraping would produce a much more accurate surface than that obtained by surface grinding, I have no personal experience to say one way or the other! Maybe others can chime in and resolve this?

Hello Duncan! I am sorry that I did not read my post thoroughly enough to prevent such ideas to popping into your head! It just shows that you have to be careful even in the beginners section!

Just had a thought about milling to get rid of the rust depressions. The plate is 18" x 12" and I don't know of anyone who has a mill big enough to do the job at one setting. Not sure I am too keen on repositioning the plate to complete the job, using a smaller mill. But then what do I know about milling!

I am sure that someone will chime in and say that unless you are experienced at scraping, then you are likely to make a complete mess of the job. Well I have done a fair bit of scraping, enough to know the pitfalls anyway. I would not claim to be an expert by any stretch of the imagination. I have scraped much smaller jobs with success, but doing an 18" x 12" plate may well be another matter. Time will tell!


08/05/2017 15:56:15

Forgive me, but I was always under the impression that scraping would give a more uniform surface than grinding. I have scraped stuff in the past that had been surface ground and found some highs in the work. An old timer said this was because there were hard spots in the casting and these were revealed when the usual bluing was applied to the master surface plate and the plate to be scraped was then "rubbed" on said master plate.

Now I have no idea if such hard spots are common or if it was a bad casting. The same old timer was quite convinced that a surface ground plate was much inferior to one that had been scraped by a skilled worker.

If I have a good surface plate with no hard spots, then if surface grinding is as good as scraping, then fine! What are other peoples opinion on this? I could well do without the exertion of scraping, if surface grinding is as good!

This is the beauty of the beginners section, you can ask stuff and not look too much of a fool!

Oh! I just noticed that you suggest milling it instead of scraping. Well most mills that I have used do not give a very good surface finish and the surface will only be as good as the accuracy of the slideways. I can assure you that they are nowhere near good enough to give you a true surface for a face plate. Maybe the same comment applies to a surface grinder? I really do not know!

Comments please,


Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 08/05/2017 15:57:58

08/05/2017 14:44:54

I have a surface plate, 12 x 18 inches. It has some abuse including rusting and some dings.

I will have an 18 x 18 good surface plate coming in a week. Now I want to scrape the damaged plate in, however to get the rust pitting out will be a very laborious process, especially as I am weak of arm due to a muscle wasting disease. So anyone know where I could get it surface ground, say taking 5 thou off. That would help to reduce the amount of scraping I have to do.

I don't want a precision job, just a good 5 thou removing, anything else I can scrape!



Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 08/05/2017 14:52:43

Thread: Realm shaper
07/05/2017 21:40:48

The shaper was made by Realm and is called a Royal shaper, it is 10.5 inch stroke. It has power vertical feed as well as the usual horizontal feed.

I have crawled over and under it to see where lubrication is needed. However I usually miss things, hence my request for help. It is a rather well made unit and was apparently sold into schools and apprentice training centres, That is really all I know about it.


07/05/2017 11:53:20

Hello Barry,

Thanks for the info, I am always bothered that I might miss some oiling point on a new to me machine

I have always had a soft spot for shapers and it seems that very few other people have one! Which is good, as you can pick one up for very little money.

They are extremely versatile. I got rid of a big industrial shaper and missed it from the word go. I machined dovetails, table T slots, as well as making new gib strips for my Myford. I machined the angle on a piece of ground flat stock, of the correct size, a lot cheaper than buying from Myfords.

On the last shaper, I even machined a Myford saddle ! I intend to cut gears on my new shaper, when I have it fully fettled, as per the recent discussion on here.

All the above can be achieved using a cheap single point too,l so no expensive milling cutters! Cheap to buy and cheap to run and the things you can do with one are amazing!



Thread: Bed regrinders?
07/05/2017 11:39:23

Seems odd that no one has had a bed regrind or knows of someone that has. The Nuneaton guy seems to be most mentioned, anyone care to pass on their experience via a PM?



Thread: Truing up chucks
07/05/2017 11:36:45


The above is an interesting way of thinking about ME. I started off building steam locos and the kit was merely an ends to a means. Now however, I am more interested in making kit not models! There is always the opposite viewpoint.

My old Cushman has had its jaws ground via a dremel and the improvement was well, not a lot. As I said before, if I can half the average run out, then I would be a happy man. Some simple turning and 4 holes drilled and tapped, sounds a very small price to pay, if it works. I am just about to start doing the job so I can report back tomorrow.

The Cushman chuck is definitely not a worn out heap of manure, in fact it isn't in bad nick as far as I can tell, The jaws are a good fit with no appreciable rock detectable and the scroll looks to be in good condition. Well worth an hour or twos punt, to see if it can be improved.

I have an excellent 3 jaw chuck (Polish) and I prefer to keep that for relatively precise work. The Cushman is used for any old rubbish job, when I don't wan to wear out my good chuck. OK for real precision, a 4 jaw and DTI are the way to go. Changing chucks relatively frequently, as I do, I never have problems with chucks sticking!


Thread: Realm shaper
06/05/2017 22:03:56

I am just getting round to tidying up a, new to me, Realm shaper. A manual would be great, but even where to lubricate and what with, would be good information!

I suspect a worn cross feed screw or nut is giving me a little more backlash than I would like, but that can be easily sorted. I may have some trouble putting in a new slightly oversized motor, but what are friends for if not to help!

I have read the Lathes UK write up and it sounds a good machine, even has the vertical axis and the tilt facility on the table is great.

Anything anyone can tell me about this machine would be most appreciated.



Thread: Truing up chucks
06/05/2017 21:54:06

Thank you John,

That is exactly where I read about it! Thanks for reminding me, at least I got that bit correct! George, there isn't much in the way of vibration. It is a TOS chuck, which I always thought to be pretty good. There seems to be no difference in noise or vibration when it is changed for another chuck. So quite where the excessive run out on the outside diameter of the chuck comes from, I do not know. it came with the ML10 I purchased as a stopgap. The jaws are firm and the backplate has about the same degree of run out as the work, I just checked it at 1.2 thou. The run out of a 1 inch diameter bar of silver steel is 2.2 thou The outer body of the chuck is out 32 thou, no wonder it looks a bit wobbly! All very strange, maybe it is a Friday afternoon job. The chuck is good enough for me!

As to using my old Cushman chuck to carry out the modification recommended by Prof Chaddock. I can see no reason why I should not experiment. I fully understand the various comments which imply it is a waste of time. I suspect that I can get the average errors to be less using the device than it is as present. If so, then time well spent for the small amount of effort. I am not under the impression that I can get zero run out. I am not that wet behind the ears. A halving of the current run out would make me quite happy.

Thanks everyone for their input, much appreciated,


06/05/2017 14:41:28

Somewhere I have the instructions for my six jaw Burnered grip tru chuck. I will see what that says about adjusting, if anything.

It has at least 5 sets of jaws, some of which I don't know what they are for! "No good giving me something complicated mister"

Thread: Where can Iget backissues of MEW
06/05/2017 14:36:02

Thanks everyone,

I am now sorted with the back issue that I wanted.


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