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Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Cheaper Oxy acetylene source?
01/06/2017 19:55:43

Hmm, seems to be a NO as I suspected. I have had oxy acetylene for almost 50 years now and you just cannot beat it. None of the other oxy fuel gas systems comes anywhere near, for the sort of work I do.

It almost seems worth going to France on a day trip, anything is better than £800 rental and now probably in excess of £1000 at next renewal. The BOC B%%%%%%s even charge you a hefty "Handling Fee" even when you pick it up from the depot!

Seems they just want to discourage people like me!

Andrew.

Thread: How to attach a quality drill chuck to a Morse Taper 2 arbor?
01/06/2017 19:47:24

Hello,

If you want a Rohm drill chuck on an MT2 taper. just buy a complete unit from Tracy Tools. They do a range of Rohm chucks on MT tapers and they are cheaper than most, especially if you have to buy the chuck and MT2 taper individually if you want to DIY!

Andrew.

Thread: Cheaper Oxy acetylene source?
01/06/2017 12:56:56

My 5 year contract with BOC will soon expire. Last time I renewed they wanted £800! Some time ago there was a thread about alternatives. It soon got hijacked with mig welding gases.

So is there anyone doing oxy acetylene cylinders, without BOC's rip off prices? I live between Leicester and Peterborough, so a fairly local depot would be nice !

Regards,

Andrew.

Thread: How should we describe non-metric tooling?
31/05/2017 22:24:40

Agreed!

Andrew.

Thread: Myford ML7 mandrel diameters?
24/05/2017 16:08:11

Thanks Tony, You seem to have made the job somewhat easier! I suppose it is the usual reluctance to do something new, especially as I thought I may have one shot at getting it correct!

Hopper, thanks for confirming that the bearings are solid white metal, that makes me feel a lot better about doing the job.

The bearings didn't have too much play before dismantling the headstock. There were plenty of shims left , so maybe I could try sorting out the original bearings. It would give me some practice and I still have the new bearings to go at if I make a mess.

I know the history of the lathe from new and the bearings have not been touched since they were installed at Myfords. Now here is an oddity, the shims under the cap nearest the chuck are all the same thickness EXCEPT for the one at front right, which is 7 thou thinner than the others. There is a piece of solid shim (cut exactly to the Myford pattern) the rest being laminated shim. I am somewhat amazed by this. It has been executed very neatly. I can only think that the original bearing must have been distorted during casting, although this seems very unlikely. Anyone care to guess what the reason is for this oddity?

Thanks,

Andrew.

Thread: Acquiring a wedge type quick change toolpost
24/05/2017 11:49:16

I didn't realise that Arc Eurotrade sold the wedge type at such good prices. Otherwise I may well have purchased them!

I did buy via (Ebay) a couple of sets from the original manufacturer, that supplied Myford. These are excellent, as one would expect. I cannot see any reason at all to favour one system over the other. What I can say is that I have seen some poorly executed piston types. It all really comes down to the quality of the item, be it wedge or piston activated.

Andrew.

Thread: Myford ML7 mandrel diameters?
24/05/2017 11:39:58

Hello Tony,

I can't find anything that is really relevant except for replacing the mandrel with a new Myford hardened version and phosphor bronze bearings. Maybe I am using the incorrect search terms?

Regards,

Andrew.

24/05/2017 10:05:08

Hello Robbo,

That is the thing that bothers me! Scrapping at the top and bottom of the bearings is something that I feel could easily go wrong and once a mistake is made, then I will probably spiral out of control! The bearings appear to be thicker than the usual shell bearings on big ends and cranks of car and bike engines, so maybe I have more white metal to play with than I think!

I am probably worrying over nothing, but I usually like to practice and become relatively skilled before I tackle something new! I don't even know what sort of small scraper to use on such (to me) small plain bearings!

Tony,.

Regards,

Andrew.

Thanks for the tip, I shall search U tube to see if I can find the clips you mention

23/05/2017 17:05:59

Does anyone know what the diameter of the ML7 mandrels is? I have reached the stage of installing the new white metal bearings and the mandrel.

I suppose that I am getting nervous and just hoping the bearing diameters are "within spec". The bearing areas are free from any major scoring. In fact they look remarkably polished and uniform. I have not yet "miked" them up for fear of finding them appreciably undersize!

I know I should just install things and see what play there may be. The only snag with this approach is that I have never scraped white metal bearings of such small size! I have done full size loco bearings before, but they are hardly in the same league for accuracy!

As I was fortunate enough to get a brand new set of white bearings, I just don't want to ruin them!

Andrew.

Thread: Chucks
23/05/2017 11:29:13

When I got my first lathe, maybe 40 years ago, I had both a 3 jaw and 4 jaw chuck. I nearly always used the 3 jaw, finding setting up a 4 jaw to be the work of the devil.

I can now quickly and easily centre a 4 jaw chuck BUT I would much rather use my 3 jaw if at all possible! I think those that recommend a 4 jaw as an "only" first chuck are doing a disservice to the total newcomer. Most beginners jobs can be done with a 3 jaw. At this point, the beginner has enough to worry about without having to set up a 4 jaw.

Andrew.

Thread: Scraping Blue?
16/05/2017 20:47:23

Steve,

A very impressive photograph! I have never seen such contrast on a rubbed surface. I didn't get my wires twisted and do appreciate that it is the US water based system we are talking of. I got my fingers twisted instead and didn't type what I intended!

I am one of those unfortunate people that get engineering blue just EVERYWHERE, except for what I am trying to coat! I assume the water based products are not nearly so messy?

I never expected this thread to reveal such a wealth of detail about scraping and systems used for highlighting high spots. It has been a real education and there may be more to come. I shall mull over all the helpful advice and see where to go. It is hardly expensive to try most suggestions (including the water based system). I can then see which one suits my needs best.

Thanks for such a response!

Andrew.

15/05/2017 20:47:05

I am a little backwards in my artistic talents, can someone explain what "cement pigment" is. I am definitely not an artist!

Now that is a touch naughty, I should have the sense to Google "cement pigment". I am just being lazy!

Andrew.

15/05/2017 20:40:15

That is a very interesting set of replies, seems the Stuart blue is a favourite . Not sure about going to the trouble and expense of importing it from the US though. I have a friend who has a house in the US and regularly commutes. Maybe I could get him to bring some back if I can find a retail outlet in the States!

I could have sworn that the stuff I used all those years ago was red lead, However I have some jewellers rouge and plenty of oil so I can make some up! Just a bit leary about the abrasive properties on my nice master plate!!!!

I have never heard of the two colour method before, it sounds intriguing. I can see the logic behind it and I am impressed by the simplicity. This seems to be requiring water based materials as you probably have to clean the plates down after scraping and repeating the process, or have I got this wrong?

Thanks for all your input, a simple thing like the colour for rubbing the plates together, turns up a wealth of unexpected information!

Thanks,

Andrew.

15/05/2017 17:22:49

Hello,

I now have a good master surface plate and some old Eclipse scrapers. I am stuck for engineers blue! I used to have the paint on variety, but it seems this has been replaced by an aerosol type which dries very quickly.

When I first learned a little scraping some 35 years ago. I used some red material which I think was red lead and castor oil? This was excellent for doing the "rubbing in" and finding the high spots.

If anyone still does scraping what "marking" material do you use? Is the spray on stuff any good? It is fine for marking out, but I doubt it has the same power of moving around under the rubbing action.

I would like to use the red lead and whatever the organic liquid was, which I used to use. has anyone got the make up of that stuff?

Thanks,

Andrew.

Thread: ALDI bandsaw
12/05/2017 20:25:24

Put a really good quality blade on it and then enjoy. Yes the speed is a touch high, but you gets what you pay for. The difference between a good blade and the rubbish they supply with the saw is a revelation.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 12/05/2017 20:25:44

Thread: Bed regrinders?
10/05/2017 16:23:35

Hello Hopper,

You may well be correct, from what was said, it seems to have a hard life. We shall see when I pick it up. Knowing my luck it will be in need of a regrind. When fettled either way, it will be a present to a disabled friend of mine who keeps going through model engineering. His bed was trashed when an RSJ fell on it from a goodly height! Good job he wasn't using it! I have lent him my ML10 while I sort out a bed for him!

Andrew.

09/05/2017 16:58:59

Hello Hopper,

I have not set eyes on the bed yet, but the gentleman who is letting me have it for scrap value, seems to think it needs a regrind. Certainly there are hacksaw marks on the bed from a previous owners crude parting off! The chap who is letting me have it sounds a very knowledgeable type so I assume he is correct!

I would be doing the wide guide conversion as a matter of course, it is an excellent mod, which I have done before.

I will report back when I have the bed.

Andrew.

Thread: Unheated garage ok for a lathe?
09/05/2017 16:51:59

I could not agree more with OuBallie, My garage was attached, but had a simple up and over door which wasn't insulated. Roof was insulated, but bloody hell it was cold in winter and stuff rusted nearly overnight! well maybe a week!

I have built an extension over the garage The new floor / ceiling was stuffed with high grade insulating panels and fitted a roller type insulated door. All doors and windows are double glazed. One needs only a minimal amount of heat in winter. I plumbed in a couple of small radiators from the upstairs central heating. They are thermostatically controlled and are off most of the time even in a cold winter.

More surprisingly during a mini heatwave last summer it was incredibly cool inside! Do yourself a favour and insulate up to the gunnels!

Andrew.

Thread: Another grinding question.
09/05/2017 16:39:02

Thanks Martin,

Last time I looked 2 or 3 years ago, they were a lot more expensive. Maybe I will finish up with a granite one in the long term.

I once surveyed the Northern Exploration granite quarry on Spitzbergen. It folded in the early 1920s when they found that the beautiful granite blocks they excavated were actually fissured all over the place. It was only held together because it was frozen solid. When they tried to unload it in the UK it all fell apart!

If only they had gone down another 3 feet. That stuff was fine! It was the site of the most northerly railway in the world (not the coal railway at Ny Alesund). It was built in the mid 1890s and was to seven foot gauge. There are some choice pieces of rolling stock still left there.

Andrew.

09/05/2017 13:03:22

Steve,

Thank you for taking such time and trouble in answering my queries. I think it a model reply and only wish there were more like you!

The good plate, I am confident has been stored as you suggest. I will be keeping it in a highly insulated garage that is part of the house. It is heated and has a thermostat that maintains temperature to within 2 degrees centigrade of nominal even in the hottest of weather. I have spent some time at getting this correct, as it is essential for some plating work that I do, I prefer ambient to a heated system. I take on board your warning of temperature stability. Getting a granite surface plate is beyond my financial means, they seem to be in the thousands of pounds range! Just as an aside, would granite that is used for kitchen surfaces be a cheaper way into getting such a surface plate? If so, how would one scrape it? Or more likely what other method would you use?

Initially I would like to get the plate as flat as possible, before scraping. This to reduce the work load because of my medical condition. Thanks for the detailed instructions, I have learnt something new from them. I have scraped before and I have some specially made Sheffield scraping tools (not old files ground to suit!). I have been practicing to hone (!) what skill I previously had. I find it to be quite exhausting, but well worth the effort!

Scraping is rapidly becoming a lost art and I would like to refurbish my old plate and keep the skills alive. So I have an ulterior motive here! I have plenty of time and aim to produce a finish that is the best I am capable of. The initial query about surface grinding was simply to get rid of the imperfections thus allowing me to have to scrape less for a given finish

Thanks once again for such an excellent reply.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 09/05/2017 13:07:16

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