Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: ML7 Spindle Lock|
I am amazed that a plastic spindle lock would work on a lathe. Must be mighty tough plastic.
|Thread: Three phase reversing|
|Thread: Grinding cylindrical HSS for lathe tools|
That is the type of toolholder that I use. In my case, the hole is considerably larger and the slit shorter. The tool itself is made from 1/2" X 1" gauge plate.
I started to use such tools on an old round bed Drummond lathe, which was very prone to chatter, from I presume, general wear. The swan necked tool completely eliminated the problem and left an excellent finish I had the same problem on a Myford 7 and again the swan neck tool cured it. New bearings and a bed regrind stopped the chatter and I could then use normal tooling without the dreadful chatter marks.
Ian Bradley recommended the swan neck tool for use on a shaper and I use one on my Viceroy shaper and it has proved to be a good choice. The Ian Bradley recommendation was for a forged swan neck tool, presumably made from carbon steel and hardened and tempered, rather than the more modern hole and slot type.
I do use a tangential toolholder and I experimented with a version to take cylindrical tool bits. Due to the extremely large radius on the tool (If sharpened in the conventional tangential way), you can only take very small cuts I didn't find that the surface finish was any better than for the swan neck tool, which could take much deeper cuts and still give an excellent finish.
It would seem that there isn't any special way to grind round tool bits, apart from grinding conventional shapes. So it looks as though I have been doing the sharpening correctly for all these years!
Perhaps I should explain a little more. I have made several swan neck tool holders, which I use on my shaper and lathe. I always get an excellent finish from this type of tool. I use round tool steel because it isn't possible to use a broach when making these tool holders, much simpler to drill a hole!
I don't normally grind a flat on the tool, preferring to align it by eye. I assume that grinding the tool shape is similar to that used on square section tools, just wondering if I am missing something?
Swan neck tools are hardly ever seen these days, which is a pity, as tool chatter is frequently a topic of discussion. If folk tried a swan neck tool when they have chatter problems, they might be amazed at the results.
I have several tool holders that take cylindrical HSS blanks. I normally grind the blanks to an approximation of tool shapes that one would grind on a square section HSS blank. It never occurred to me to do otherwise. I suddenly thought that maybe I had got this all wrong and there were some crafty ways of grinding round blanks.
Have I been doing things wrong for all these years?
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 07/01/2022 17:57:03
|Thread: Digital Caliper - again, sorry|
Anyone found an inexpensive left handed caliper. Most seem to be north of £50 which is a lot for limited use on a lathe.
Happy New Year.
|Thread: Middle of Lidl|
I would not hesitate to use the Lidl drills for pilot hole use. They are cheap and incredible good quality, the grind is also extremely accurate. I use them for 90 % of the time, although I have Dormer sets on the shelf. Try them and be pleasantly surprised!
|Thread: Which graduating tool?|
Looks as if I shall go for the Fallow's design,
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 09/12/2021 21:56:47
Thanks gentlemen. I suspected that there was little difference between the two designs in terms of performance.
I am looking for a graduating tool. Hemingway do two kits. One is the Radford design and the other is the Fallows's design at half the price. They both seem to have more or less the same specifications as regards graduating.. Can anyone comment as to why I should pay twice as much for the Radford design? I shall be using such a tool on a fairly infrequent basis, so maybe the beefier engineering of the Radford tool will be overkill?
Come to that, is there any other design that is available? I have not got the energy to design one myself!
|Thread: What material to replace compound slide please?|
This type of conversion was done by Tubal Cain in his "Gibralter" tool post. Hemingway do a kit aimed at the Myford 7 range and that uses cast iron.
Interestingly enough, I believe the prototype was made from aluminium (presumably of the "hard" variety). So it appears that cast iron,, steel or hard aluminium may be suitable.
|Thread: Vee belt question, for Centec 2B|
Look up Centec on Ebay. You will find that SE power transmissions have the belt you are looking for at £12. Looks a reasonable quality one too.
|Thread: Myford ml7 Chuck|
Anything that Arc sell will be a quality product. The 4" Chinese chuck that they sell can be bought more cheaply on Ebay, but the quality is going to be poorer than the Arc version. Chinese companies sell the same product in different qualities, depending on what the buying company wants to pay and what quality they want.
Arc has an exemplary reputation for excellent goods at reasonable prices. You can depend on the quality of their Chinese chucks. If in the highly unlikely event of a problem, you can depend on them to rectify it PDQ.
It really depends on what quality you want, it ranges from cheap and nasty far east products to high end stuff like Bison and others.
If it were me, I would buy a 4" Chinese chuck and a matching backplate from Arc Eurotrade. I purchased such a chuck about a year ago and was amazed at how good the quality was, forgetting the modest price. Arc do backplates but you will need to turn the register to size and drill the mounting holes. Not a difficult task and good learning too.
You may be able to buy a chuck with a backplate attached and ready to go, from the" New" Myford. If so it will probably be more expensive than going the Arc route and the chuck will be hard pressed to beat the Arc offering.
|Thread: Synthetic paint thinners PT8 vs. white spirit|
One thing to note re Paragon paints is that the enamel has a very short shelf life, If I remember correctly it is only a year. I have tried using older part tins and used PT8 to thin these thicker "older" paints..The results were a substandard finish. Just like Nigel's experience in similar circumstances but using White Spirit as a thinner. Dave Wooten's experience, over a long period, show no adverse effects of using White Spirit as a thinners. Andrew.
Tried thinning Paragon paint with white spirit last night and painted a smooth cast iron surface. Results this morning are first class.
This plus Ajax and Dave Wooten's long term experience, convinces me that White Spirit is just as good as Paragon's expensive PT8 thinners.
The naysayers are welcome to buy the expensive product, I for one will use White Spirit.
I am interested in the OP's original question, because I use Paragon paints.
The question was "What is the difference between white spirits and Paragon P8 thinners?" The OP's researches indicate they both contain similar ingredients. So does anyone know the answer? Neither I, nor the OP, are really interested in cellulose thinners, as it is not suitable for Paragon enamel paints.
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 30/10/2021 21:24:54
|Thread: Centec Coolant|
My 2B has the full size stand. There is, as you say, a large tank at the bottom of the cabinet. There is a large sheet metal top for the tank. The suds pump (in my case a Stuart Turner) Is mounted on the lid of the tank, with a pickup that goes to the bottom of the tank. The outlet goes to the machine tray and has a throttled nozzle and tap to direct the coolant to the cutter. The return is from the tray via a hole with a mesh cover, the return goes down into the tank via another cut out.
I doubt if the pipe runs are original as it is done in 15mm copper pipe (would have expected 1/2" copper pipe if it were original).
To be honest, I find the whole thing to be unsatisfactory. Trying to clean out the tank is a nightmare with its limited access. I intend to fit a new external combined pump and tank, for ease of maintenance. I would recommend this solution to you.
P.S. The tank at the back of the stand is non standard and a later addition. I assume a previous owner fitted it to avoid the cleaning problem with the manufacturer's tank.
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 30/10/2021 15:30:55
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
An interesting take on bookshelves and well executed too. You are lucky to have so few books. I have run out of wall space for bookshelves and the books still keep piling up.
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