Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: "Angel eye" wiring colour code|
I too would be interested in your conclusions. I did a similar set up and found that it was not easy to illuminate the tool. In the end I gave up and used a couple of low voltage MR 50 type, led reflector lamps at 45 degrees to the table on each side of the quill.
Illumination is really what suits the individual and my eyes preferred the two reflector lamps. It will be interesting to see if you are happy with your finished product.
|Thread: Boiler making torch|
No way is that torch going to work on anything unless it is very small indeed.
Use Propane and take heed of the size of regulator AND cylinder. For big jobs a small Calor cylinder will not provide enough gas per unit time.
As to torches and nozzles, most people say Sievert. I have a large range of Sievert stuff and an equally large range of Bullfinch torches and nozzles.
I much prefer the Bullfinch product, they are British made and they have an extremely good advice set up, if you need help.
When I was accumulating torches, the Bullfinch products were less expensive than Sievert. Both are good and should be your only choices.
|Thread: Steel Blue recommendations|
The molten Sodium Nitrate , Sodium Nitrite and Sodium Hydroxide mixture gives superb results and I have never had problems with rust afterwards. Not every one's cup of tea from a safety aspect, but extremely effective.
|Thread: Vickers Metropolitan Capacitor Motor 1/4 hp BKC 2410|
A word of warning about trying out the motor. If it has got wet or damp, do not apply power.
Dry it out for a few days in an airing cupboard or a very warm room. Motor windings do not usually show any ill effects from being wet. However a wet / damp set of windings plus power is virtually certain to permanently damage the winding insulation
|Thread: Shaper tooling.|
Yes that is the design I referred to in Ian Bradley's book above. It was intended for a Drummond hand shaper.
Interesting reference. I have Ian Bradley's book on "Shaping machine and Lathe tools", but was completely unaware that there was a similar work by Duplex (half of which was Ian Bradley) or are we talking about the same book?
There is certainly a similar tool described in that book. But it is an infinitely variable angle and intended to be used on a Drummond hand shaper. I dismissed this design because it only appears to have a bolt holding the two parts together. In my experience that would not have held the tool in position for 5 minutes. Hence I thought there must be something more to the professional version As indeed Ian and Joseph have shown me.
I have already started making up my version, If only I had cottoned on that the angle wasn't infinitely variable!
Many thanks for posting the drawing by Art Volz. A picture is better than a thousand words. I can now understand how the holder works. That particular tool covers several fixed angles. In my simple minded way, I thought that the tool holder angle was infinitely variable. I could not for the life of me see how the adjustment was held. Shapers being notorious for loosening anything that can move! Having cut gear teeth on my shaper, I know only too well that a shaper can often loosen the work, especially if it isn't in a vice or clamped firmly to the table.
Serves me right for having a preconceived idea of how the tool works. Without that, I might have twigged how the tool actually functions.
Thanks for the reference to Kinzer. I am familiar with the site, it has a reference to a fixed tool set up, with the cutter at 90 degrees to the main holder in the clapper box. I was really looking for a design that had an adjustable angle.for the cutter.
www.neme-s.org was my original go to site. I have most of the shaper info that is on the net, in hard copy. Compared to other machine tools there isn't a great deal to be had and I stick to that statement!. I have quite a few old books from Moltrecht and others that have chapters on shaping
Your advice re tool catalogues was something that I missed so thanks for that idea. I will take a good look.
|Thread: Hand Hacksaw|
I have used Lee Enfields and standard German army (WW2) Mausers. I found that the Mausers were a better proposition than the Lee Enfield. The best British rifle that I have used was the P14 from WW1. The action is superior to both the Lee Enfield and the Mauser.
I am led to understand that the Lee Enfield (modified to 7.62 caliber) is still used as the British army sniper rifle or at least was until very recently?. I really can't understand this, as there are much better sniper rifles available these days.
|Thread: Shaper tooling.|
Up to now I have used square section HSS tools on my shaper. Looking at a few books, I see that a tool holder was often used. This seems to consist of a square or oblong holder in the clapperbox. At the bottom of this holder is a second holder which is pivoted on the bottom of the first holder. This second holder has provision for a piece of HSS to do the cutting
These tools seem to be a very rare bird these days, I would like to make one, but the illustrations are not particularly clear. It seems that a bolt (?) is used as a pivot, but I can't see if the joint is one piece on another, or whether there is some sort of dovetail (castellated?) joint involved.
Some pictures show a nut and bolt fixing and others show what appears to be a (threaded?) disc as the means of tightening, The disc looks neat but how one can tighten it sufficient for shaper work is a bit of a mystery
Such a tool would be excellent for cutting dovetails and the like, so has anyone any experience of them and their construction. Details of shaper work are few and far between on the net and I already have copies of most of the more important contributions.
Can anyone advise?
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 01/03/2022 13:26:15
|Thread: Carbon Steel vs HSS Taps & Dies|
I am a firm believer in good quality carbon steel taps. (note the "good quality"!) I find that carbon taps are sharper than HSS. Sure they blunt quicker than HSS, but for the average model engineer that doesn't matter. A different case for industrial full time use.
Tempting fate, I have never snapped a carbon steel tap, although I have plenty of broken HSS taps. At least the latter can be ground and used as cutting tools. Good carbon steel taps are around half the price of HSS equivalents.
I am told that it is easier to remove a broken carbon steel tap, but never having broken one, this may not be true.
|Thread: Hand Hacksaw|
Sorry, the Rocal was £16.99, then the 5% discount, but still cheap!
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 01/03/2022 10:44:41
Right now Zoro have the 12" Starrett high speed blades at 0.95. each in 18, 24 and 32 tpi Using the discount code FHQA05, you get an extra 5% off.
Postage is free above £20, I added a 500 gm tub of Rocal RTD for a few pence over £15. Most other sellers charge £19 to £25 for this.
If you want hacksaw blades or Rocol RTD, then buy now, as the special offer won't last too long!
Re your observation that the Eclipse tubular hacksaw of old, holds the blade at about 5 degrees from the vertical. Mine is exactly as you describe it. I was also given a brand new Eclipse hacksaw (same type) and this also holds the blade at approx 5 degrees re the frame.
From this I infer that the 5 degree offset is deliberate, for the reasons that you give.
There is no doubt in my mind that many old tools are better than their modern counterparts. I have a liking and the know how, to keep wood working planes in good order. There is a marked difference between good modern planes and the older variety and that isn't in favour of the modern stuff!
It isn't user bias, even the uninitiated can tell the difference when using them.
|Thread: Number stamps quality.|
I have just ordered the precision W/O Pryor number stamps.
It looks as though the Arc set are better than the ones I have. I use a tool based on a Tapping jig and can hold the square section of the punch very accurately. However this is no good if the punches are not accurate!
I will take a look at JHS modelmark's offering too. Thanks for that ega.
Engraving sounds even worse than punching and I certainly won't pay for a professional to do it. We are supposed to be model engineers after all.
The sets I have, are from well known sources and I am surprised how poor they are. Have you actually tried Arc's offering and were they accurate? I don't want to buy yet another set that are dodgy! So can anyone recommend a set from experience, that give good results?
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