Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What is it please|
I will try something like a washer to reduce the flame area.
Thanks for the offer, but I do have the M&W info filed away. I was working from memory, too idle to get up and check!
Do you know if there is anything above the wadding? Maybe a gauze or something to retain the string / wadding that fills my particular version. Just curious.
When I use mine, I find the flame covers the whole tube diameter, which seems a bit wasteful??
I have and use one of the Moore and Wright mouth blowtorches like the one in the above thread. I have often wondered if there should be a gauze or some sort of wick holder that is placed on top of the wadding. Mine works fine without, but I would be interested to know if the item is incomplete.
PS I think the M&W code is a 606.
|Thread: Adcock Shipley Bridgeport motor|
A pity you don't feel confident to rewire in delta. That motor looks to be an easy conversion. However full marks for expressing your concerns about your ability.
Where are you located, someone may be near enough to do the job for you?
|Thread: Unusual Leather Rolling Machine|
Well Martin bought it and if I had been at the auction I may well have bid.
P.S. In my neck of the woods, there are quite a few saddlers. They may have been interested too.
|Thread: Can you identify this motorcycle?|
Looks like my father's pre war James 198cc twinport.
|Thread: Looks as though the classifieds have been hacked again.|
Could someone take down the offending add?
|Thread: Mill or drill for the same money|
You seem to have forgotten that the gentleman in question has already invested in a mil. A Proxxon mill to boot, with which he didn't seem too pleased about, despite being warned about them.
|Thread: ML7 Spindle Lock|
Well I will give it a try if anyone can sell me the printed product.. I don't have a 3D printer.
I am amazed that a plastic spindle lock would work on a lathe. Must be mighty tough plastic.
|Thread: Three phase reversing|
|Thread: Grinding cylindrical HSS for lathe tools|
That is the type of toolholder that I use. In my case, the hole is considerably larger and the slit shorter. The tool itself is made from 1/2" X 1" gauge plate.
I started to use such tools on an old round bed Drummond lathe, which was very prone to chatter, from I presume, general wear. The swan necked tool completely eliminated the problem and left an excellent finish I had the same problem on a Myford 7 and again the swan neck tool cured it. New bearings and a bed regrind stopped the chatter and I could then use normal tooling without the dreadful chatter marks.
Ian Bradley recommended the swan neck tool for use on a shaper and I use one on my Viceroy shaper and it has proved to be a good choice. The Ian Bradley recommendation was for a forged swan neck tool, presumably made from carbon steel and hardened and tempered, rather than the more modern hole and slot type.
I do use a tangential toolholder and I experimented with a version to take cylindrical tool bits. Due to the extremely large radius on the tool (If sharpened in the conventional tangential way), you can only take very small cuts I didn't find that the surface finish was any better than for the swan neck tool, which could take much deeper cuts and still give an excellent finish.
It would seem that there isn't any special way to grind round tool bits, apart from grinding conventional shapes. So it looks as though I have been doing the sharpening correctly for all these years!
Perhaps I should explain a little more. I have made several swan neck tool holders, which I use on my shaper and lathe. I always get an excellent finish from this type of tool. I use round tool steel because it isn't possible to use a broach when making these tool holders, much simpler to drill a hole!
I don't normally grind a flat on the tool, preferring to align it by eye. I assume that grinding the tool shape is similar to that used on square section tools, just wondering if I am missing something?
Swan neck tools are hardly ever seen these days, which is a pity, as tool chatter is frequently a topic of discussion. If folk tried a swan neck tool when they have chatter problems, they might be amazed at the results.
I have several tool holders that take cylindrical HSS blanks. I normally grind the blanks to an approximation of tool shapes that one would grind on a square section HSS blank. It never occurred to me to do otherwise. I suddenly thought that maybe I had got this all wrong and there were some crafty ways of grinding round blanks.
Have I been doing things wrong for all these years?
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 07/01/2022 17:57:03
|Thread: Digital Caliper - again, sorry|
Anyone found an inexpensive left handed caliper. Most seem to be north of £50 which is a lot for limited use on a lathe.
Happy New Year.
|Thread: Middle of Lidl|
I would not hesitate to use the Lidl drills for pilot hole use. They are cheap and incredible good quality, the grind is also extremely accurate. I use them for 90 % of the time, although I have Dormer sets on the shelf. Try them and be pleasantly surprised!
|Thread: Which graduating tool?|
Looks as if I shall go for the Fallow's design,
Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 09/12/2021 21:56:47
Thanks gentlemen. I suspected that there was little difference between the two designs in terms of performance.
I am looking for a graduating tool. Hemingway do two kits. One is the Radford design and the other is the Fallows's design at half the price. They both seem to have more or less the same specifications as regards graduating.. Can anyone comment as to why I should pay twice as much for the Radford design? I shall be using such a tool on a fairly infrequent basis, so maybe the beefier engineering of the Radford tool will be overkill?
Come to that, is there any other design that is available? I have not got the energy to design one myself!
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