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Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Tinsley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Rusty tooling restoration
15/07/2019 21:19:27

Hello Jon,

I have sent you a PM.



Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
09/07/2019 12:20:00

Hello Ron,

Looks as if the lead screw drive has been modified to give you reverse. The 4 bolt mod seems to have been done as well.

I modified a 920 for a friend and I incorporated a Gibralter tool holder. That stopped a lot of the tool movement! The VFD mod also gets you well below 100rpm, so screw cutting isn't such a nightmare.

Nice one ,


09/07/2019 12:19:54

Hello Ron,

Looks as if the lead screw drive has been modified to give you reverse. The 4 bolt mod seems to have been done as well.

I modified a 920 for a friend and I incorporated a Gibralter tool holder. That stopped a lot of the tool movement! The VFD mod also gets you well below 100rpm, so screw cutting isn't such a nightmare.

Nice one ,


Thread: Microns ...
05/07/2019 09:27:23

I suppose it all depends on what you are doing. In my day job, before retiring, I would regularly measure the thickness of thin films to plus or minus a couple of nanometres. I needed this degree of precision to make sure that the films were fit for purpose.

As far as model engineering is concerned 0.5 thou is as good as it gets as far as I am concerned. For most jobs, a couple of thou would be nearer the truth! Horses for courses.


Thread: Rodney Milling Machine Accuracy.
30/06/2019 11:13:45

I have the ML10 version of the Rodney miller. I think Howard has just about covered most things. I am not sure about the "Known defects" Of the Rodney. I use it for small work and find it to be in the same league as any other small mill. Basically take small cuts as it and other small mills are not exactly the most rigid of machines.

As for mounting it on the lathe, I have never given it a second thought. Although I suppose it I smaller and lighter than the ML7 version.


Thread: Changing Tapers on an Arrand boring head.
20/06/2019 17:37:38

Thanks everyone,

The shank has now been unscrewed! Perversely, I managed to unscrew it by hand. I think all the shock loading and heating persuaded it to surrender to mere unthreading by hand. I can assure everyone that it was stuck tight before.



Thread: How to de-oil an oilstone?
20/06/2019 15:49:33

I have found that cellulose thinners seems to work well on old sticky oilstones. Just leave it in the thinners for several days and the stone is much improved.


Thread: Easy Button Die Storage Solution
20/06/2019 10:34:54

I have used a similar system for both taps and dies. Works a treat and highly recommended. As for rusting, well I have a tap and die set in a wooden box from the early 1920s, which belonged to my grandfather. No sign of rusting yet!

In the boxes I have made, I usually use some modern floor varnish, just to make it look nice. The untreated ones don't rust the taps or dies. I use pine for the base and plywood for the lid. Pay no heed to the doomsayers, it works well.


Thread: Changing Tapers on an Arrand boring head.
18/06/2019 22:02:27

Looks as though I may have to cut it off and drill it out. I have tried shock loading the head with the taper fixed and I am afraid I am going to do some damage if I hit the large spanner any harder!

Thanks ,


18/06/2019 20:46:09

Right, I now have my Arrand Boring head with a 3 MT Taper. I also have the Arrand 2MT Taper.

However I am blowed if I can undo the 3MT Taper from the head. There must be a simple way of doing this, but the mind is blank.


Thread: Is this cheap type of VFD worth buying?
18/06/2019 18:11:50

The topic of cheap inverters has been well aired. I suggest you do a search on the forum. Some are dead against cheap VFDs and others claim they are just fine. I think it is a case of making your choice and paying your money.

I have gone for second hand Siemens 420 and 440 VFDs and have been pleased with the result.


Thread: Why a round bed?
03/06/2019 13:38:01

I have a Drummond round bed. I have graduated the hand wheels and cleaned and fettled the lathe. I find it surprisingly good, once you have got used to it. I don't find it difficult to set up either.

The one thing that lets it down is lack of a back gear. I wished I could find one of the aftermarket back gears that were made for the old round bed.

I have more modern lathes than the Drummond, but it gets used quite a lot, so that must say something about the lathe. Clive would probably say it says a lot about me!


Thread: Myford boring bar help
01/06/2019 12:41:40

Hello Chris, thanks for pointing out that the bar is not faulty. I didn't realise that the cutter was secured by a wedge. That makes it even more difficult to adjust, unless you know of a good way. I would not give such a boring bar house room. The micrometer type is much, much better.

As an aside, I have a mill as well as a lathe. When boring cylinders. I much prefer to use the lathe and a between centres boring bar, providing that you can fit the cylinder on the cross slide. If the cylinder is too big to fit, I then use the mill as second best.


Thread: Which Qctp for mini lathe?
01/06/2019 11:48:23

I have a set from the chap who made them for the old Myford Company. I always thought that they were excellent, until I started doing more hefty work. There seemed to be more movement in the tool than I was used to. I reverted to the old Myford standard tool holder and this was better, if not really perfect. I borrowed a Tubal Cain Gibralter toolpost and was stunned at the difference A solid toolholder at last, that didn't move under heavy loads.

Now QCT holders have their place and are very useful, but they do have some stiffness problems. Just something to be aware of.


Thread: Myford boring bar help
31/05/2019 11:34:51

Hello Mark,

It looks as if your boring bar is faulty, as others have said, do talk to Myford.

I don't like that type of boring bar, as I find it terribly difficult to adjust the tool accurately. I much prefer the type with a micrometer adjustment to set the tool protrusion. GHT gives a good design in his Workshop Manual. Another type is marketed by Hemingway Kits and doesn't take long to construct. In fact the kit makes up three boring bars of different diameters. If memory serves me correctly, the kit for three bars is about 50% more than the single bar from Myford.

I made up the Hemingway kit and was given a GHT boring bar as well! They are a joy to use, much easier than the Myford offering. Having said that, I am sure someone has found an easy way of adjusting tool protrusion on a simple between centres boring bar. It is just that I have not worked out how to do it!


Thread: Ballscrews?
29/05/2019 22:09:45

Maybe it would have been a good idea to have solved this problem BEFORE you built your layout. Sounds like very poor forward planning.


29/05/2019 16:39:33

Excellent suggestion Baz! I have just reinforced my loft floor and it was a straightforward and surprisingly inexpensive job..

The obvious way to go, simpler and cheaper than complex weight bearing devices that must weigh next to nothing. Makes me think of skyhooks!


Thread: Basic questions about wax chucks
29/05/2019 14:09:49

Hello Steve,

The stuff I use is in the form of brown flakes. It was used in making the cement for fixing the caps on GLS light bulbs. I liberated a coffee jar full some 20 years ago and I still have enough to last me out.


29/05/2019 10:58:14

Hello Nigel,

I have used aluminium and even mild steel for a "chuck". This is bolted onto a faceplate for the turning operation. I use just straight shellac. Although the real Tubal Cain does recommend mixing in some beeswax with the shellac. Strength of bond has never been a problem. So I expect the modern version of this technique would be just as trouble free.

I don't like cyano type glues because the fumes upset my eyes. Shellac is rather comforting and old fashioned!


Thread: Arrand boring heads.
25/05/2019 22:07:50

Thanks Steve, I might have expected that it was more complicated!


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