Here is a list of all the postings SteveI has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: hepworth copy attachment missing handle|
Sorry to side track your thread. I don't suppose you have details of the types of copy attachment hepworth made? I am looking for a unit for my lathe which is smaller than the M300 (10" swing) and has the cross slide drilled and tapped for a "copy attachment". Feel free to PM me as required.
|Thread: Arrand boring heads.|
I should have been clear about the sizes; those are the names that Arrand gave the different models. Based around the maximum bore using a side tool. From the catalogue the outside diameters of the heads are:
the 3” head 1.3/8” or 35mm
the 4.5” 1.3/4” or 44mm
The 5.25” 2.1/8” or 54mm
the 6” 2.1/2” or 63mm
the 6.5” 2.3/4” or 70mm
8” boring and facing 3.1/2” or 89mm
10.5” 4” or 102mm
The catalogue I have does not mention a 3.25” head.
AFAIK Arrand does not manufacture any more but still trades selling from stock. I purchased my 3” head a few weeks ago direct from Arrand.I think rotagrip have some of the heads in stock according to their website.
the 3” head uses M14x1
the 4.5” and 5.25” use 16mm x 1.5mm, the shanks are the same as their fly cutters.
the 6” I don’t know.
the 6.5”, 8” boring and facing and 10.5” all use the same shanks but these are held on by a register and 4 shcs.
|Thread: New Toy|
Wow very interesting. Which options did you go for it?
|Thread: MT4.5 sleeve|
Item 124 is most likely something other than a MT4.5 sleeve. Your link is to the southbend type of boxford. The X10 is the type with the D1-3 camlock nose bored for a MT4.5.
most likely plus VAT.
Edited By SteveI on 10/03/2019 14:38:56
I am not sure that the MT5 and MT4.5 tapers are the same. Machinery's Hanbook (30th Edition) states that the taper per foot for morse taper 4.5 is 0.62400 and MT5 is 0.63151. When I made my MT4.5 sleeve (Boxford lathe) I used a MT7 as a gauge, which as far as I know is the only other morse taper which does have the same taper as MT4.5.
Also 2mm to grind is a lot to grind. If it were me I would want to turn away most of that 2mm before the grinding.
I am not sure what they cost but Boxford used to supply MT4.5 to MT3 adapters and MT4.5 to 5C collet adapters, and I think Grizzly in the USA used to sell MT4.5 sleeves as well.
|Thread: 7¼" gauge Duke of Gloucester|
|Thread: DIY Epoxy Frame based CNC MILL|
Wonderful job. Very interesting and I am working my way through the paper you linked to.
Thanks for the updates, a most interesting build.
I am looking forward to learning about your linear rails and how they mount with particular reference to your need to lap the steel to the tolerances you quote. Which brings up the question what are you going to machine on this tool and what kind of tolerances are you aiming for?
Wonderful thread and please do keep posting, the more detail the better!
|Thread: Small slitting saws|
CR Tools in Sheffield have several options very close to what you want.
I have no connected except as a satisfied customer.
|Thread: Harris Milling Machine Arbour Adjustable spacing collar|
I have been given a "Harris" milling machine arbour adjustable spacing collar. Picture here:
The collar is in 2 parts with a 20 TPI thread. The nut component has 50 teeth around its outside diameter. The screw part has 2 small tapped holes. Presumably for a ratchet to allow easy adjustment of the spacer by 1 tooth/thou, at a time. This ratchet mechanism is missing.
I am wondering if anyone knows of how this looked originally so that I can make a suitable replacement.
|Thread: Ideal amateur lathe spindle nose?|
Thanks for keeping this thread alive. I have a feedback for you. The torque required to tighten ER50 collet's is considerable. Especially squeezing them down to the lower end of their 2mm closing range. This is based on my own experiments with some second hand regofix ER50 28mm, 30mm, and 32mm collets and a regofix ER50 ball bearing nut. you will need a very secure spindle lock on your design. Oversize collets are available for ER40 utpo 30mm. Something to think about.
I have recently come in to ownership of a small hardinge UM mill from the 1940's. Saved from the scrap man. Unfortunately this "lucky" find comes with a 5C (!!!!) horizontal mill spindle and no tooling. I am looking to design and make a new 30 taper spindle for it. So please keep posting your thoughts!
|Thread: Cataract lathe by Hardinge Bros|
Interesting. What number spindle does your lathe have? A number 5 size has a spindle bore of approximately 1.25" stock and fits 5C collets. A number 4 is approx 1" stock and fits 4C collets, 3C I am not sure but fits 3C collets. There are 4 deg taper and threading spindle nose variants for the outside of the spindle noses.
There is a chap that is a regular poster on the practical machinist Hardinge forum who is a fountain of knowledge on Hardinge manual lathes and mills, especially the older models. His name is on the lathes.co.uk link Michael posted. I expect if you posted there you might also have chance to locate a replacement cross slide and possibly other accessories.
|Thread: Manual for a Myford MG12 cylindrical grinder?|
Have your exact model and machine number to hand and contact **LINK**. They will have the correct manual and may well be cheaper than lathes.co.uk.
The correct manuals are reasonably useful and should cover all your stated requirements.
Depending on the exact machine you have if it is the later type (12" wheel, and optional swing down internal grinder) there were factory collet options for 4C and 5C collets. The earlier type had a different collet type that I am not familiar with.
Edited By SteveI on 05/06/2018 20:13:18
|Thread: A recommended live center?|
Make that a +3. Didn't GHT himself write something along the lines that a "rotating center is an essential accessory for everyone that can afford it.". I would add to that by suggesting the word quality should be at the front.
I had a second hand Rohm center and after using it on a good lathe I noticed a visual striping in the finish. I then got lucky on a second hand female center gepy and the finish vanished. Later to banish a major milestone birthday blues I got a male center gepy and I have not regretted it. One thing to note the standard GEPY has quite a short stub on the end and does not eject on all tailstocks. They used to do a variant P/N that had a longer stub. I don't know if they still do. It is of course a simple matter to turn up a replacement as they simply screw in and out.
|Thread: Diamond grinding wheels|
ebay.com and sellers from ukraine.
Just a quick comment -- CBN doesn't need to be expensive. After a tip off from a friend I have been using new old stock from ebay sellers from ex Soviet Union locations, a cost effective source of CBN. I have a number of Ø125mm wheels and the costs were between US$20-30 per wheel with free post. I use them on HSS I also purchased a "1200grit" CBN low speed lapping wheel which makes no mess for keeping tools razor sharp. For Carbide I use Diamond from the typical hobby suppliers, none of which are cost effective for CBN. I whole heartily recommend CBN for HSS, it does a wonderful job with the minimum of mess.
I would like to get advice of which of CBN or diamond is most appropriate for stellite. Even at the prices stated I want them to last as long as practical.
|Thread: INT 30 sleeve to hold collets for milling cutters closer to spindle|
Schaublin made "Biconical collets types ISO 30" with 3-16mm and 1/8"-5/8" bores. I have a few of the metric that I have never used. They are I think a possible solution to your problem.
Look at page 13.
Now I can't seem to find the link again but I recall seeing on aliexpress or alibaba similar collets available.
If it were me, at the risk of teaching you to suck eggs I would look into, revising the work holding, making a riser block, rather than buy these if you can source them. What mill do you have?
|Thread: Squareness comparator's bumpers|
Are you thinking of making your own or looking to understand what is important to aid in buying?
Hopper is of course bang on the money. One issue I have found is that if you are trying to check squareness to very tight tolerances then the you need a tool that repeats the measurement reliably. Otherwise it will drive you mad. Obviously you are looking to compare squareness but what in terms of job are you looking to do with it?
A standard marking out gauge can do a really good job but the units which are especially made for this type of job are very heavily built i.e. rigid when compared to a standard marking out gauge. The marking out gauges have more degrees of freedom which the comparator does not need. When you are using a tenths/50 millionths/micron dial indicator you need all the stability, rigidity you can get. You will also need a reference to calibrate the comparator to. The classical method is to use a cylindrical square but the cheapish granite tri squares from china are more than good enough.
Stefan Gotteswinter has a video on youtube about making a squareness comparator and oxtool has a few examples of using one.
Edited By SteveI on 18/02/2018 16:31:53
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