Here is a list of all the postings noel shelley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bronze fittings in steel boilers - corrosion?|
When 2 different metals are joined together, depending on their relative positions in the chemical reactivity series as to what voltage will develope and electrolytic corrosion take place. For small boilers there is the problem of internal examination, where as full size boiler with the tubes out can be well inspected internally. If the inner fire box is also out then a man can get inside the boiler. When a copper boiler is designed there will be no need for a corrosion allowance where as a steel boiler will have one of 0.5 for plate under 1/4" and 0.75 for plate of 1/4" and above. Whilst steel does not weaken at the temperatures used, copper does, so at a working pressure of 60- 100 psi the derating is 0.8 and 110- 150psi 0.7. A safety factor of between 6 and 10,though 8 is thought suffient. Hope this helps.
Figures from "Model Locomotive Boilers" by Martin Evans.
Edited By noel shelley on 04/02/2021 12:49:14
|Thread: Stuart 10V Build Log - Complete Beginner...|
It is a beautiful model of which you should be very proud of !
When Bridport Foundry took over Stuart Models from the fellows in Gurnsey who had been having all the castings subbed out, they invested heavily in the knowledge and technology to produce good quality small iron castings. Not an easy task !
As for the quality from henley, I aquired a fully machined kit for the reversing D10, still in it's vacuum packed wrappings and costing many £100sof pounds. On building it up I found that the engine would not even rotate let alone run,due to the crank pins being out of truth. On showing the engine to Stuart Models and pointing out the problem, I was told "Oh it's got 6 top cylinder cover bolts, it's the old version. Nothing to do with us" ! Drawing their attention to the fact that the company had built up a good name over decades that they were now trading on counted for nothing !
From what I know of it, the current owners are now trying to rebuild that good name. Noel.
|Thread: Loctite made in China?|
Since this post has gone sideways a bit ! One trick with super glue type adhesives is to store them in the fridge - They will last years ! and still work. Noel
|Thread: Direct stable connector to electric motor|
Dag Jobbe, If I understand the question correctly you want to mount a grinder plate directly on to the keyed shaft of a motor ? Can you send a picture of the grinding plate ? How will you attach the plate to the mounting - with glue or screws? A machined disc bored to suit the motor shaft, the keyway could be cut with a hacksaw and held with a grub screw. Good luck Noel
|Thread: Myford drive belt|
Peter has the benefit of our collective opinions ! I will be fitting a new A29.5 to my S7 I don't think link belt is right in this application. I have used link belt at work and found that as it bedded in it streched quite a bit, it was good quality with steel pins, it wore quite well. It has its uses ! Noel.
|Thread: Bronze balls in place of steel balls in a Land Rover|
Under NO circumstances change the balls for PB. Use a good secondhand one. When rebuilding the front hubs pay VERY good note and set the trunnion preload just right or you will land up with an uncontrollable 1.5 Ton projectile. It is a point that not many understand - Even our local main agent !!!!! PM me if you want to know more. Noel
|Thread: Myford drive belt|
As some have said I would NOT use link belt other than in an emergency. The job of removing the spimdle is not difficult. There are plenty of places to find the instructions, all you will need is a cast ER32 C spanner from ARC (code 050 110 32540) which will need minor adjustment( GRINDER) to fit fine on the bearing adjusters, cost £4.54. And a new good quality A 29.5" or A780 V belt. The belt on mine needs changing and was fitted in 1969, it's probably a job you do once in a life time, so just do it ! It's also a good opertunity to clean all the headstock bits. Good luck Noel.
|Thread: Have You considered getting a 3D printer|
Jason. The problem arises from the hundreds of little ridges. AND that people fail to understand the need for a good surface finish with a draft angle. The merest hint of under cut causes trouble and 3D printing produces may be hundreds of them. I agree that an industrial quality machine will reduce the problem and other processes help. The hobby printer does not seem able to fullfil the need as a pattern maker without much additional work.
Your CNC wooden patterns would have no relavence in this context, being cut from solid and I assume you understood the basics of pattern making.
In small items whilst fuming may leave you somewhere near the required dimensions, without very careful design Etc the build up and sanding will leave the pattern oversize, and that is assuming the shape allows you to be able to sand.
My point is that before people buy a 3D printer thinking that it will make their patterns It's not that simple, unless their prepared to spend £1000s
That Neil, in MEW described a lost 3D pattern process was interesting but without VERY careful melting and burning out runs the risk of inviting disaster ! Noel
Edited By noel shelley on 29/01/2021 15:52:13
One of the uses given for a 3D printer is that of pattern making. I have had numerous 3D printed patterns sent to me to be cast and almost without exception they have been useless ! The little ridges that are the layers it is built up of make it immpossible to remove the pattern from the sand. Only with considerable extra work in filling and sanding can these patterns be of any use. What is the way to resolve this ? It would be good to be able to advise those who suggest 3D printing as a pattern making method how to achieve a workable pattern. Noel
|Thread: Die query?|
A thread system that used 26 tpi for all diameters. Thin walled brass tube, hence the name. A common thread in light fittings now is 10mmX 1.0 Noel
|Thread: Air Compressor Warning|
Gentlemen Please. This tread has on the one hand attracted far to much theory and on the other very little. It would appear that we nearly all seem to have a compressor of one size or other - how many have had a pin hole leak let alone a catastrophic shell failure ? Most safety is based on historic practical experience tempered with some theory and good practice(common sense). The issue of explosion due to THICK oil in the tank. The ignition of even a light oil at the pressures and temeratures we are talking about is not easy. Diesel fuel will not ignite until the temperature in the combustion camber is raised to about 800*C and the fuel finely atomised. When cold this process will often need the help of a glow plug to the get things started, so thick oil in a even warm tank is so unlikely to explode or ignite as to be on a par with a pig with wings !
There are many things that CAN go wrong, a blocked drain, a failed non return or unloader valve, a seized or stuck safety valve, the pressure control switch operating at the correct pressure. Then there's the motor?
The idea of a galvanized tank is good but one thought would be that it might instigate stress cracking due to the brittleness of the zinc/iron intermediate layer.
If you are reading this you have so far survived living with tis dangerous device ! Noel.
Edited By noel shelley on 29/01/2021 11:44:02
|Thread: What machine tools are these?|
The BSA item does not look like a coventry die head chaser grinding fixture, either early or late type. Albert herbert were the main maker but clarkson also made them - I have one. Noel.
|Thread: Cracked motor mounting plate|
As has been said, being able to weld with some proficiency is a good plan. V out, then the use of cast iron rods which being high nickel are expensive but should run like butter with preheat and slow cooling. If the above is not possible then if the job is worth it get it done by a professional. Noel
|Thread: Paint, what types available, most durable|
A good machinery enamel ! Years ago Valspar was the best, good wet edge and flatens out beautifully. Will look like new. Noel
|Thread: Best way to straighten a Long Series drill|
Put it on a press and keep on till it is straight using a pair of V Blocks. Noel
|Thread: Help with lathe motor, running hot and then smoking..|
A 1/2Hp 1425 brooks motor will do a good job. Too small for the myford S7 so that should help to keep the price down & common enough. I find it hard to understand why one would replace a simple and almost bombproof motor with an expensive and complicated box of electronic tricks which if it is hobby rated may not last long. An industrial unit will be good but cost many shekels ! If the lathe was designed with a single speed motor do you need a VFD ? Noel
|Thread: How big Are Your Chips|
As an apprentice on a harrison 10 lathe on a good run in free cutting metal we would have 2 others standing beside me to hold the spinning spiral - on a good day it would run to about 10 feet long before it broke.
Happy days ! Noel
For a 10V I would call tracy tools and but a set of 1/16" to 1/2" by 64ths drill set. with this and odd metrics you will have all you need. IF you want reamers they also do a good set of imp reamers. No connection but there good boys. Noel.
|Thread: So Much For CE Labels!|
funny that SOD should mention skoda bolt quality we had the same trouble with zetor tractors ! noel
|Thread: Myford spindle rectification or replacement|
Thread files are made in TPI and Metric pitches, about 8" or 10"long, square with 4 thread sizes at each end, 8 in total. They are very good for repairing threads in ordinary steels Etc .mine are made by sykes- pickavant. If as I believe the myford S7 has a hardened spindle then a thread file will be spoit the first time you use it ! I have trued many a duff thread using a good all hard hacksaw blade and it would work well in this application. All you have to do is follow the original thread. Noel.
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