Here is a list of all the postings Gordon Tarling has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Brush motor repair|
If you're going to use soft solder to make the connection to the commutator, ensure that you use a high melting point type. 'Comsol' used to be the product to use , but I'm not sure if it's still available.
|Thread: Drill press vice|
I've had one of these - **LINK** for many years now and I really have never wished for an upgrade at all. It's very well made and suits my modest purposes very well.
|Thread: Another Gipsy mk1 question|
Definitely clockwise from the front, which is the opposite rotation to the majority of other aero engines.
|Thread: Emcomat 7|
Providing that it will meet your needs, I'd say go for it! I've had a Compact 8 for a few years now and am very happy with it, so I would have no qualms regarding the 7. The only real shortcomings I've encountered, which matter to me, are lack of backgear and lack of readily available accessories.
|Thread: The Chocolate Fireguard as designed by Mercedes Benz|
You've not owned a Mercedes before then? Welcome to the wonderful world of MB!
|Thread: Britannia Tender kit from Model Engineers Laser|
Whilst Model Engineers Laser may not be able to give you details of any customer, there is no earthly reason why they couldn't pass your contact details to a customer or two if they wanted to.
|Thread: Any ideas anyone|
Steam valve - if this is to be used to throttle an engine, then a globe type valve is not what you want. There are purpose made throttle valves available, I'll try.to post a link later
Pipe lagging - I've not yet found 'proper' pipe lagging cord for small pipes. I used cotton string painted with white type correction fluid on my boat's steam plant.
|Thread: Looking for lathe mandrel test bars.|
I bought one from Arc Euro, though I have no idea of who the manufacturer is.
|Thread: Supplier for Large Timber Workshop - Recommendations Please|
**LINK** Built and erected my 7.5 x 4.5m workshop about 3 years ago. Made to the exact size and specification that I wanted with no problems and at a very reasonable cost
|Thread: Battery Packs for Remote Control|
+1 for Component Shop - excellent service!
|Thread: Aircraft General Discussion|
Yesterday afternoon, around 4pm, we were treated to a lovely, low level, flyby of the BBMF's DC3 at around 500ft. Didn't have time to get a pic, but it sounded and looked lovely. We see this particular aircraft quite often and even wifey now knows that it's a Dakota.
Speedy - the real clue is in the name - 'deflector'. Their only purpose is to prevent the majority of the water from entering the engine intakes - I've seen a video of the testing and will post a link here if I ever find it again. The reason the rear wheels on the bogie don't have the deflector is that they are further aft and the water hits the nacelle behind the actual intake. Sorry, I'm unable to explain the theory of how they work - my job was just to fix things that went wrong.
They're actually water deflectors to stop spray from the wheels going down the engine intakes.
|Thread: Source of quality cars|
You haven't said what size of model you're looking for, but I think plastic kits might be your best bet. They're available in various sizes/scales, easy to paint and you wouldn't need to build the whole thing if you only wanted the body shell. Furthermore, they're reasonably priced. I know there are also some metal kits available, but they tend to be at the higher end of the market as far as I can see. You'll find thousands of kits on Ebay and Amazon!
|Thread: Macc Models Update|
Joe - very sorry to hear that, I know how you must be feeling right now. Most customers have feelings too and will fully understand your slower than usual service. I've used MACC Models several times in the past and service has always been excellent, I'm sure it will soon be back to normal. My very best wishes to both of you.
|Thread: Advice sought|
Brian - Thanks for that. There seems to be at least a couple of people on the BHI site who are close to me, so I'll get in touch with one of them. Well, I never knew that about the regulator, but I guess it makes sense. I'll try adjusting it back toward the 'S' over the next few days and see what effect it has.
I recently bought the pictured clock at a swapmeet. It appears to be a relatively common Smiths bulkhead clock and, from its weight, it's solid brass! However, there's a bit of history with this clock which is that it formerly hung in 617 squadron's hangar at RAF Scampton - at least that's what the lady who sold it to me said. There's a date on the back of 1954 and also an Air Ministry stamp, so I have no real reason to doubt the story. Even though not from the wartime period, I thought it deserved a good home. It's in fairly good condition and seems to run well with a very sweet tick, except that it loses around 2 minutes a day with the regulator set hard over to 'F'. Now, I fully suspect that this clock has never been cleaned or lubricated in its life, so am wondering what the forum thinks would be the best way to go about getting this done. I don't wish to attempt this job myself, so are there any recommendations for a trusted repairer? I'm in the Grantham area, if that matters. Thanks!
|Thread: CNC Depron machining + film|
Rod - I just sent you a PM.
Rod - Took a look myself and it seems that 4mm board is hard to come by. I'll email my clubmate to ascertain what thickness he uses and where he gets it from.
A fellow club member builds the Flite Test models from the paper covered foam, but he cuts it all with his laser cutter - they do build and fly well. The only slight problem with using the laser cutter is that the core foam melts back from the edge slightly, though usually not enough to be a problem. Not sure where he buys the foam board and I can ask him when I next see him, but have you tried artist's and framing suppliers? I was buying thicker black board for mounting photos from Lion.
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