Here is a list of all the postings ronan walsh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: bridgeport spares stockists|
Is that addresspal Larry ?
Thank you all for the replies.
Who is there in the UK, or possibly Europe, that stocks Bridgeport spare parts ? I have tried dealing with Sorted in Bristol, absolute nightmare and would not bother with them again, and another company, Goodwin i think, who wanted £30 P+P for three grubscrews, ditto.
I know you pay over the odds when you are a one man band or hobbyist trying to buy off professional outfits, but thats taking the wee.
I only need a handful of small fiddly parts to have my Bridgeport/Tom Senior finished, in time for a few winter projects.
There must be somewhere in Europe that can supply parts efficiently and not be a rip off ?
|Thread: Work done with limited equipment|
Well one of my interests, shooting, has led me to look at some of the high end shotguns out there. Most of the older British, Belgian, Italian and Spanish guns, were made with little more than hand files, hammers and chisels, and very limited machinery such as maybe a pillar drill.
All changed now of course, machinery takes away a lot of the drudgery , but old fashioned hand tools still have their place.
|Thread: Tailstock tapping chuck|
God yes, don't know what i was thinking.
Coventry die head ?
|Thread: ABB ACS50 VFD|
I have it sorted now, a chap on another forum told me to connect the two sides of the switch using a diode. I had done this before with a piece of wire and all it achieved was reversing the motor, no matter which way the switch was turned it still turned the same way.
I scavenged an LED out of an old radio, put it across the terminals of the switch and hey-presto, it worked. Turn the switch one way-clockwise, turn it the other way-counterclock.
Thanks to all who assisted and took the time to answer my questions.
Thanks for all the help and kind offers, I will work my way through them tonight and see if i can get the thing to work as i would like. I am sorry i bought ABB, they are not user frendly to say the least, the manual is a joke, and the company unhelpful.
Thanks john, its as much use as a chocolate teapot i am afraid. It shows a circuit diagram for the control wiring that does not seem to work.
Does anyone have a vfd the same as the make and model of the title ? I am having endless difficulty wiring it up to a switch so i can run the motor it controls in both forward and reverse.
The motor is on a bridgeport head, so i need to run it both directions.
|Thread: Bridgeport 2j speed adjustment|
i think i found the trouble, there are two clamping bolts that go into the movable sheave on the motor shaft to take the tension off the spring. I thought they were supposed to be there, so i have removed them and things have improved. But it turns out the speed indicator plate on the front of the head is the incorrect one for my head. So i will have to find and buy one.
Thanks fellas, yes i know that much. What i need to know is how do you adjust the screw in the centre of the head, on the top that controls how much the front sheve opens and closes ? I have a situation where when i wind the handle the spindle speeds up, and then slows down again even though i continue turning the handle in the same direction.
There must be a method or procedure on how to adjust this system.
I fitted a Bridgeport 2j vari-speed head to my Tom Senior mill during the summer. The head is a heavy old lump, about 180lbs so no way i could lift it by myself and my shed to too low to use a hoist or lifting gear.
So i split it into two separate pieces, the upper and lower. Having now got the whole thing back together, aligned, trammed etc, and i am starting to run the machine, there is an issue with the speed selection of the spindle.
It is controlled by a handwheel which you wind in either direction to raise or lower the speed. I do not know how to adjust this particular feature, there is no mention in the manual.
Would anyone happen to know how to do this correctly ?
|Thread: Spring steel strip|
You can use o1 or silver steel, full harden it by the usual heating to red heat, holding it for a few minutes and quenching. Then you can temper by putting the spring in a bath of lead and quenching.
|Thread: Restoring a steel cam lobe|
I had a pair of Newman cams for a triumph twin a few years ago, and they appeared well made to me, no machining marks , nicely polished and nitrided. Other people i know have been critical of their products, one in particular had a problem with dimensions of a hole in the end of a cam for a japanese car, reckoned they did not want to know when he raised the issue with them.
|Thread: Correct name for this item please?|
Chuck it up for sale here and let it be used for its intended purpose. It would be terrible to use it for anything other than it was intended for. A bit like idiots using micrometers as G-clamps.
|Thread: Restoring a steel cam lobe|
The problem with the A7/A10 cam wear, is a symptom of wear in the timing side bush, the oil pressure drops to a point where the pressure relief valve does not open, or open often enough to give the cam a shot of oil. Great engines apart from that though, and an end feed conversion to the crank see's this problem off.
|Thread: Is Model Engineering in Decline|
Its the same in a lot of pass times. When i go to the shooting range, its like "The last of the summer wine". I think fellas in their 40's are about as young as it gets. The young people do show up, but they think it should be 100% fun all the time, instantly gratifying, and no work involved. I think it is like that with a lot of young people now.
Also having a "dirty hand job" is a bit of a stigma with the younger ones. I was proud to have an engineering trade, but now its all management and marketing and all that rubbish they want.
I think the problem is years ago, most people lived in houses rather than what are now comically called apartments, or it would be comical if young people did not have to take on a lifetimes debt for a place only slightly larger than Harry Potters cupboard under the stairs. If you think i am joking, have a look at one, terrible.
My grandparents, on both sides had very ordinary houses but with gardens large enough to make growing your own veg worthwhile, back when people had to do things like that. In both cases there was also enough room to build a pretty decent sized shed.
And as you all know once a shed is built, it makes a great bolt hole to hide from the wimmins/swmbo/'er indoors. Once in the shed you might as well do something, home brew, carpentry, fiddling with motorbikes or cars, model engineering, or all of the above.
That is something that is simply not going to be open to most younger people in the future, trying to re-enact the industrial revolution in a pokey apartment is simply something that is not going to happen. Even with modern houses, the developers cram as many of them onto a plot of land as possible, a friend has a garden just big enough to fit two wheely bins.
|Thread: Engine plans|
I have known very skilled people, Toolmakers, Fitters, Machinists, Cabinet makers, Carpenters, probably more skilled than most around now, who for nearly all of their working life used imperial. They seemed to cope alright. Also you speak as though imperial is dead and buried, its still used in America, and then by people here who work on American products, such as train locomotives, and aircraft.
I worked for years in a hose company, machining threads on fittings, making up hose assemblies etc, all in imperial, usually BSP, British standard pipe.
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