Here is a list of all the postings ronan walsh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chipmaster Refurbishment Questions|
You should join the yahoo colchester group and ask on there , very helpful when i was stuck for various work-arounds for my master.
|Thread: Turning Phosphor Bronze|
I was turning up some bushes for a bsa motorcycle gearbox yesterday ,a sharp hss tool walked through it easily, the drilling was the same , good and sharp but the fine swarf builds up and binds the drill bit in the hole so regular pecking to keep it clear.
|Thread: Colchester student run out|
Is the machine sitting level and straight on the floor Eg no twist along the bed ? I have a colchester too and have looked into alignment, you can offset the tailstock left and right for taper turning and maybe this has been done and not returned to centre ? A test bar with morse taper to suit your tailstock are available for you to check alignment.
on my lathe (a master 2500) the headstock is also moveable left and right , if a length of 1" ground steel bar is held in the four jaw chuck and clocked up central , a dti can be held in the tool post and run along the length of the bar to test for misalignment.
Just a few ideas , i am sure there will be more experienced people along who will explain this better and better ideas than myself.
|Thread: Frame Problem|
Upol acid etch from halfrauds ?
|Thread: Larger steam stationary engine|
Are there plans available for that engine jasonb ? metric dimensioned would be great, does anyone publish them ?
i was thinking something like this
Edited By ronan walsh on 11/08/2012 23:31:20
Its more the lathe i have which limits what i can turn, i have a colchester master 2500 and trying to turn anything less than about 10mm is a bit of a pain. As for the mill , no its still three phase as i believe the 3 phase motor is a smoother and a vfd is as cheap as a replacement motor and has far more features. The travel it has in the z-axis is a bit limited and i might make a spacer that sits under main column giving a bit more room.
i am open to any ideas as regards the engine design, but something maybe 12"-18" long would be good.
Would anyone know of a larger sized stationary steam engine design that could be built from bar stock ? My machines are a bit too large for the very small designs that are commonly available , it needn't be a complicated design , something simple like a horizontal mill engine.
|Thread: Restoring - Polishing levers, handwheels & slides etc|
I bought a tom senior mill a few weeks back , it had been lying up for about a year, had a fine coating of light rust on all exposed bare surfaces. I used coarse steel wool and jizer first , but found plastic pot scourers from tesco and the jizer to be far better at removing the rust and caked on dirt from the paint too.
these scourers are green come in packs of 5 or 6 and are cheap and effective.
|Thread: table drive motor identification|
Thanks for the trouble everyone has gone to on this , I have successfully managed to delete the wiring that was no longer required and the contactor block, the wiring comes directly from the rail on the bottom of the board, into the 240v-24v transformer on the top of the board, the power (24v) then runs back down to the rail connections , i didn't have to touch the actual electronic pcb's at all thankfully.
It all works fine now and i am very happy not to have to fork out for a new motor or vfd.
One piece of the contactor is remaining , i didn't know if i should remove it or not , advise please. Its in the last couple of picture i have just uploaded.
I finally got the power feed working , i have upped two photos showing how, one of the three lives ran from L3 to L on the connections at the bottom. i disconnected this and connected a single phase live to the L connection on the right (beige coloured block) the neutrals are common as are the earths so these were connected also. With power applied the motor worked but only after the contactor in the second last picture was pushed in manually.
The motor isn't that fast running , even with the rapid feed button held down , but hey it works and the limit switch mounted on the front of the table works perfectly too.
So if anyone can tell me how do i get around having to push in the contactor manually ? can i do away with this component completely ?
Thanks all .
thanks les , i'll contact denfords for a wiring diagram, they do have some drawings because they bought tom senior's in the early 80's and i will also ask over on the yahoo group for senior millers.
Thanks les, i should have said that this machine came from a community college and is covered in safety switches , one on nearly every door or hatch and a massive emergency stop foot operated button on the base. There is a lot of wiring from these switches to the board. I may remove them as they don't serve any real purpose.
if anyone can steer me on how to get this table motor running with the original buttons and controls i'd be very happy.
Yes michael ,thats the one, can i simply connect the live and neutral single phase to this ? , there is a contactor block immediately below this which has three phases connected to it , can this be isolated ? Surely its for the main drive motor which is now not connected to this board as its connected to a vfd.
I have upped more photos of the electrical board. if i were to change the transformer in the top left hand side of the board to a 240v -24v out would that work ? the components on the two boards seem to be 12 and 24 volt pieces.
Firstly , thanks to all for replying to this thread , i didn't know i could power this motor from single phase power. This is a relief as it saves me altering the machine and also the cost of a vfd. Heading to the shed now to investigate this.
Thanks for your reply andrew, I may replace this motor with a ac type and drive it with a vfd so. Is there any other method of operating this motor from a single phase supply ? There is quiet a lot of electronics in the board in the base to operate this motor, but i don't have a three phase supply and don't intend to get it.
The x-axis power feed on my tom senior universal mill is powered by an electric motor rather than mechanical means. I ideally want to power this motor from the usual inverter/vfd, can anyone help me identify what type of motor i have ? it can be seen in the pictures in my album. The main motor has been disconnected from the electrical board in the base and connected temporarily to the vfd i use for my lathe so the machine is operable, but i would like to get the table feed sorted.
p.s its the one with the "kemo" nameplate.
Edited By ronan walsh on 02/08/2012 23:50:14
|Thread: tom senior mill help|
I found the problem , it was a loose grub screw in one of the gears on the main spindle which engages with the back gear. A few turns of a wrench and the sound completely disappeared, whew !
New member here, i am a fitter/turner by trade , with an interest in all things mechanical. In the shed i have a colchester master 2500 lathe , and just last week i bought a tom senior universal milling machine. This is the final version of the m1 major and mine dates from 1981. This mill came out of a community college and had one owner before me. The machine is in excellent condition , there is no wear and it is still tight.
I connected the machine up to my vfd just to see it running and was alarmed to hear a knocking noise from the shaft that drives the cutter. Would anyone have any experience with these models of machines ? or failing that a manual or an exploded view. I don't want to dismantle anything needlessly.
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