Here is a list of all the postings ronan walsh has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New Moore & Wright any good?|
I always stick with Starrett, who afaik still have a place in Jedburgh, or Mitutoyo, their stuff is always excellent. The current issue with mitutoyo is the chinese fakes. Go onto ebay and see how much of the "mitutoyo" tools come from China, all fake.
|Thread: Return of the Shaper|
I had an instructor while serving my time, who was a toolmaker and had worked all over the world, including Boeing in the USA, and who was nearing retirement age. He despised shapers with a passion, i asked him one day about working with shapers and his response was unprintable here !
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
Yes, Howth is north east Dublin. Haven't been there in years, so like the rest of the city it has probably been over developed.
Well Triumph have been back many years now after the original company collapsed in the early 1980's. In my opinion making bikes every bit as good as anyone else, the owner John Bloor is not a man to suffer fools or have a buisness not making money. Norton are also making very nice, but expensive machines.
I do remember the bsa you talk of, there were two designers who used to do television programmes had a hand in it, Seymour-Powell i seem to recall. But all small cc bikes are now made in the developing countries in the far east.
|Thread: Tom Senior spares|
Many thanks for the reply Brian, i will give them a try.
Is there anyone out there making or stocking spares for Tom Senior milling machines ? The bronze nut on the Z-axis on my Universal isn't the best and i'd rather buy one than make one as i have enough projects on the go.
|Thread: aluminium crank cases|
I boiled up some old cases in water with normal washing powder in it, the cases came out like new. But i tried it with a separate set of case sometime later, and they came out a blackish grey colour, not nice at all. Someone said it was because of the silicon content of the aluminium reacting with the contents of the powder.
|Thread: Sine Vice|
They are only suitable for grinding surely ? Not robust enough for the stresses of milling ?
|Thread: Sudden Radio Adverts on my computer?|
I grew tired of the constant adverts on my browser. One thing i noticed was the adverts are tailored to you and match your browsing history, eg. if you have been looking at car websites, you get adverts from garages and motor factors and the like, so someone is monitoring your computer.
At the recommendation of someone on another forum, i ditched the browser i was using and switched to opera. Its very good, no adverts what so ever.
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
I always wanted a Velocette, a real one, not the le200. The black velo with gold pinstriping has a genuine class of its own.
|Thread: Boring bar/head|
I have to say i've bought quite a bit off rdg over the years and never had a moments trouble with them. Andrew said to ditch the cheapo screws on the far eastern boring heads, and thats a very good idea. The ones they come supplied with are pure rubbish.
Edited By ronan walsh on 12/04/2017 21:06:52
Just to throw another stick through the spokes, what do you think of the type of boring head that the tool swivels from a central point, the bridgeport type i think they are called.
Use an indexable lathe boring bar the same size shank as the holes in your boring head. For aluminium i would try a tip with a radius rather than a sharp point though.
I don't think it matters what a boring head is, metric or imperial, as i always use a DTI for adjustments, its easy and gawd knows what the divisions are on some of these far-eastern made heads. The cheapo bars that come with them are very roughly made, i have a set and all the tips were at different angles to each other, very sloppily brazed on.
A trick i was shown before, and works very well if the holes aren't too deep, is to use a slot drill in the boring head, with the point/corner as the cutting edge, before you pooh-pooh it, try it.
|Thread: Milling Slots|
Have you considered having it wire edm'ed ? But as people here have said, gauge plate rusts like billy-oh.
|Thread: Turning a finned aluminium cylinder barrel for a motorcycle|
Modern motorcycle cylinders are all aluminium and the bores are coated with nicasil or some other modern surface treatment process. The heat dissipation is much better than cast iron cylinders shrunk into aluminium muffs. Another factor is bore wear is massively reduced by using piston rings much thinner than would have been used in old british bikes, i have a piston here from a ducati superbike and the rings are about 1mm in thickness, compared to maybe 5mm for an old brit.
|Thread: Lifetime Guarantee ( Ford)|
I was helping a chap learn to tig weld, he had cut up a car roof into bits to have something to learn on (he does car repairs, spraying and the like). I was absolutely amazed at the thickness of the material, it was literally like paper, especially compared to old stuff like morris minors and the fords, jags etc of the 60's/70's.
|Thread: The effect of lubrication on reaming tolerance|
The one in the link below, about 26mins in.
Yes lubrication does have an effect. As apprentice's we were puzzled by holes not being the fit we wanted them to be and blamed the reamer, but we were told the cutting oil, either oil or soluble oil affects the clearance. Stefan Gotteswinter on youtube, who i recommend everyone subscribes to, demonstrates this in one of his excellent videos.
|Thread: Springy steel|
I have made leaf/vee springs, including a full set for a falling block .303 restoration from o1 and i can assure you it was not a botch job. The springs are working fine many years later. Also Dewey Vicknair, who is Watson brothers repair agent in the USA uses o1 for any springs that need replacing, not just on their guns but any classic british gun that comes his way for repair.
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