Here is a list of all the postings Howard Lewis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Empty Drill Boxes|
Arc Catalogue 11, only shows drills in boxes, not empty boxes. Ditto for Tracy Tools, and The Tap and Die co, as far as I can see.
You may find what you want on Amazon, under Drill Index Boxes.
|Thread: Making a new screw for a bench vice|
Presumably a Buttress thread to cut?
|Thread: Cleaning my lathe|
+1 for a baking tray under the bed to catch most of the swarf..
The chip tray is lined with an offcut of cushionfloor, or something like it, to make sweeping up the "stray" swarf easier..
(Polythene sheet is melted into holes by hot swarf )
|Thread: Empty Drill Boxes|
I too have bemoaned the lack of 0.1 mm increment drills above 10 mm
But by then the hole is large enough to allow a boring bar to enter.
Also, using Imperial drills to just below the required size, allows the hole to,be bored or reamed to size, no no major problem.
|Thread: 5” Rotary Table/Tailstock/Chuck Kit Info/Questions|
If it possible to mount the work vertically in the vice or chuck, to produce a square. you only have to run the cutter along each side, in turn, to remove enough metal to leave a square of the size that you want.
To align the Tailstock with the R T when used in horizontal mode, my method is.
Obtain a blank arbor with taper to fit the bore in the R T, and carefully bore it to be a snug fit on the barrel of the Tailstock. (As indication of the fit, mine goes "pop" when the arbor is pulled off the barrel )
My Tailstock is aligned to the T slot by means of stepped dowels, so the R T is aligned by fitting the Arbor into the R T, with the securing bolts slack.
For the first time alignment, the clamp bolts for the vertical position of the tailstock barrel are left slack.
In this way, with the R T in a suitable position on the table, the Tailstock is clamped to the table, so that the Tailstock barrel can be inserted into the bored arbor.
For the first time alignment, by leaving the vertical clamps for the Tailstock barrel loose, as the R T is aligned with the Tailstock, the Tailstock barrel is now aligned in the vertical plane, with the R T., and the clamp bolts can be remain tight and untouched for the future.
The Tailstock barrel locates the R T.so that it can be clamped to the table. The Tailstock can then be repositioned wherever is suitable along that T slot, for the work in hand.
|Thread: Cutting Brass Sheet|
Hand or bench shears? With thin brass sheet, and sharp blades there should be no problem
|Thread: Scribing with verniers|
As an Apprentice Engineer, I was taught to use tools for the purpose for which they are intended.
A tool that is abused will eventually cease to of use for the original purpose.
Callipers are for measuring. Scribers are for scribing.
Carbide tips on tools are there to minimise wear, but will chip.
If you want to scribe on a workpiece, use a scriber, or a Height Gauge fitted with a scriber blade, on a surface plate, or failing that, a machine bed.
As someone once said to a Foreman at Rolls-Royce "There are two ways of doing this" and got the reply "I only know one way; the right way"
As NDIY says, you don't use a micrometer instead of a G cramp, or a Toolmakers Clamp, if you want it stay accurate. No doubt you could use a mic instead of a hammer, but I wouldn't trust it afterwards!
|Thread: Myford Super 7 - novice help for motor start up without damaging I motor or gearbox etc|
If you just want to check the motor, slacken the primary belt (On Myfords, the belt is tensioned by just the weight of the motor, so lift it, and remove the belt from the pulley.
With the motor unloaded, it should spin up.
Assuming that it is a single phase motor, when you switch off, just before it stops, you should hear a click as the centrifugal switch kicks in again.
(The switch makes contact when the motor is stationary, and powers the start winding. When the motor reaches speed, the centrifugal switch opens and de-energises the start windings, leaving the motor with power to just the Run windings )
If the motor does not spin up when the belt is refitted, you need to start checking, stage by stage, from the countershaft onwards what is causing the problem.
|Thread: Overheated Drill|
ANO's experience is why I am VERY wary of lending tools to other people.
Either they are not returned, *"No. Never had that" or come back damaged or ruined.
I would rather go and do the job myself.
Amazing how many non engineers seem to think that any spanner will fit any bolt, and that power tools have an infinite reserve of power.
The epic was the person who complained that the drill was not cutting.
It worked better when I rest the drill for normal rotation rather than reverse!
|Thread: Tightening a Threaded Bolt|
The correct torque for a 3/8 - 24 UNF bolt, according to Hobson Engineering website, would be 30 lb ft.
Although this might depend upon the grade of material of the bolt. Presumably this figure is for high tensile bolts.
If you are worried about security, you could always tighten to less, having treated the threads with an anaerobic thread locker.
An anaerobic should function quite well with a gap of 0.003", which is probably less than you have.
|Thread: Mounting stuff to a Faceplate|
When you clamp work to the Faceplate, just be careful not to overtighten the fastenings.
the fastenings only need to be just tight enough to prevent the work moving under cutting loads.
Too tight could cause distortion which destroys the accuracy of centering / locating, and in the worst case scenario, crack the Faceplate.
A small fastener can exert quite a load. I once cracked a Myford ML7 Cross Slide by overtightening a 1/4 BSF nut (M6 for those metricated )
|Thread: Milling machine coolant system|
The coolant will do three jobs.
Lubricate the cut
Cool the tool and the workpiece.
Was away the swarf.. ( Ali does tend to weld itself to the tool because of the heat generated )
Paraffin (Kerosene) is a good lubricant for machining Aluminium, but don't smoke near it or inle the fumes..
Edited By Howard Lewis on 31/08/2021 12:58:41
|Thread: Overheated Drill|
Sadly, I fear that at least one of the armature windings has gone open circuit.
Because of this, it runs at low speed, and does not generate enough back EMF to reduce the current draw; hence the slow and hot running.
If you want to investigate, start checking across diametrically opposed commutator bars, you will probably find some that are open circuit..
If you can get a new armature, it may be repairable (Economically or not is another matter )
If the gods smile on you, it is possible that, but unlikely, that it has merely thrown the solder off some of the armature / commutator connections, and a few minutes work with a soldering iron will restore life..
|Thread: Mis-aligned hole in Stuart Half-Beam|
So, pgk pgk, you are a member of my "cock up club".
I get quite practised at bushing holes to put the original hole where it SHOULD be!
|Thread: Converting fractions to decimals|
Been watching this with some amusement.
Am a fully paid up Luddite (aka Ancient Oddity or Dinosaur - although they went extinct a long time ago! )
The older Mill/Drill is Imperial to match nearly all my measuring kit. The lathe is Metric but dual dialled, so MOSTLY, I work in Imperial. (Using a digital Calliper most of the time with a mechanical instrument for a second opinion )
The drawings / sketches and calculations are mostly on the back of an envelope, often thinking in Fractions, which appear as decimal inches on the envelope!
Was taught Log tables at school, and the virtues of mental approximation, but starting work had to learn how to use a slide rule (Had never fathomed father's Japanese Bamboo one! )
Was told at Tech that it was basically, log tables plotted out in linear form. THEN the penny dropped, and was amazed at the accuracy with which results could be interpolated.
Too ignorant to really write my own programs, but do use EXCEL for spreadsheets.
The one that I wrote (? concocted ) to correct my HV6 expands from time to time. Just insert a new number of divisions, and it tells you how many turns and holes are needed (CANNOT find a drill to drill decimals of hole though! )
Would take up 3D printing, IF I could think of a use for the things that I make / mend / modify.
Favourite calculator is solar powered, so has to be used under a light after dark!
Whatever your interests, you are likely to find someone here with the same, and others who will help should you need it
|Thread: Myford threaded chucks on a Rotary Table?|
John P's Tee nut and hose clip idea sounds to be a good idea
Possible variation on this theme, if the table is larger than the chuck, secure an angle bracket to the table with a tee nut, and make a tapping into the chuck body which can be used to clamp it via a short slot in the angle bracket?.
Haven't tried this, but another job to go on the Round Tuit!
Found VERY comprehensive tables of the dimensions of many Tapers on
Tools-n-Gizmos site on Google
It may "Come in Handy one day" (Already has for me )
|Thread: Cross slide graduations?|
So, if the Leadscrew has a 5 mm LEAD, 50 divisions on the handwheel will give a 0.1 mm increment per division.
If this is DIAMETER, the tool will actually advance by 0.05 mm which seems reasonable distance, since smaller increments can be estimated between the marked divisions.
The real check is to measure before and after.taking cuts.
|Thread: Type 2 precision vice from Arc euro|
Found the article, on an auto feed for the Adept No 2. I
It was in M E , 5th march 1953, by David Williams.
The ratchet wheel was a 35 T that he happened to have, and was 1.5" diameter, so the minimum feed per stroke would have been just 0.003"
A 40T wheel ( giving 0.0025"/ stroke minimum feed rate ) with 0.0625" gashes would be 1.59" diameter, so reasonable..
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