Here is a list of all the postings Howard Lewis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: They see you coming|
The problem with locking wheel nuts is either the garage loses the key, or destroys the nut ton remove the wheel.
Just renewed our car insurances.
For once, the premiums went down, AND Direct Line are going to refund 2% of the premium for each 1,000 miles that we did not drive of their nominal 10,000 pa, So it could be that we benefit to the tune of about £15 for each car!
Makes better reading!
|Thread: Win 10 back t0 Win 7|
W7 is no longer supported. m Although from time to time, when shutting down, updates still come in.
Still works quite well, (installed in march 2017 ) and shall continue using it
It ain't broke so no intention to fix it; plus various adverse comments re W10 mean an up grade id even less likely.
Better the devil you know and all that
|Thread: Read the small print|
The manufacturer may specify a torque but that does not mean that a fitter will use a torque wrench.
The wheel bolts on our daughter's car were visibly necked through overtightening.
Presumably an air impact wrench was quicker than a torque wrench!
Needless to say, any damaged bolt was replaced and torque tightened. Another three lost customers!
I have seen the same thing happen with 7/.8 BSF wheel nuts and studs. And they were supposed tom be tightened to 400 Lb ft. Never happened with a fitter on the end of a 6 foot wheel bar, only with a 3/4 drive air impact gun!
The worst involved fitting all four hubs, six new wheels, and rebuilding the brake gear where the studs had moved inside and done further damage..
A triumph of speed over quality!
|Thread: Parting off help!|
IF you are going to mount it in the front toolpost and run the lathe in reverse, yes., as long as inversion does not cant the tool over from the vertical.
The tool holder already provides top rake, so don't grind any on the tool, just front clearance, and set on the centre height.
Since you will be changing tools easily (The purpose of a QCTP ) it may be worth making a Centre Height gauge with two blades. The upper one will be for tools mounted normal way up, which touch the underside of the blade, and the lower one for inverted tools, such as your parting tool, which will just touch the upper surface of the lower blade.
Have a look at my albums.
Either that, or spend time experimenting with, and adjusting, every tool, facing the end of a bar until there is no central pip. But you may still need a gauge for setting boring tools.
|Thread: Warco WM180 Lathe Upgrades|
If the baseplate fouls the tool holder, then that side needs to be flush with the sides of the toolpost.
The material sitting in fresh air doesn't do anything, so the small amount can be removed without doing any harm, but actually improving function, by allowing the adjustment range to be as originally designed..
|Thread: They see you coming|
My father ran a garage, and my brothers were in the motor trade, so I grew up around motor vehicles.
A colleague bought a Rover 2000 when it was a new model. First service the garage charged for 6 plugs. Colleague asked for the extra two plugs. Shame faced service manager admitted the mistake and amended the bill.
Very many years ago, a neighbour had a Fiat 500. Regularly main dealer serviced, but a bad starter, until I set plugs, points and timing. The battery box was badly corroded, having had a "Replacement battery" fitted. The date stamp showed it to be older than the car!
About the same time, my wife's colleague's car ran short on oil.. The bill for the call out included a new rocker cover gasket, since the problem was that the leaking gasket was the original "Funny, you've billed me for a new gasket at every service" "Sorry Madam, No charge"
Many years later, my wife ran a Renault 6TL. Having had a new tyre fitted, by a national chain, I saw that the balance weights were almost all the way round the wheel and the valve was a tubeless one. Returned the car and told them that the wheels were not suitable for tubeless tyres and that a special adaptor was required to fit he wheels to the balancing machine., and would they please fit the correct tyre and our tube.
Wheel was returned with very few balance weights! One lost customer!
A neighbour went for a "Free track check" two weeks later noticed that the tyres were wearing and pointed it outb to him. I checked the track with my kit and found it to be out. Reset it, and the nuts went back to exactly where the dirt showed that they had been! originally
Exactly the same thing happened to the other next door neighbour!
Someone at work had their track Reset by the main dealer,. The front tyres wore out in 500 miles, and the fuel consumption was terrible! Took it back and told them to put it right and fit new tyres, at their expense. . OK after that!
Another neighbour bought his company car. next service "You need new rear discs sir" "Funny you changed them at the last service, that the company paid for" "Oh, so we did. Won't be necessary then"
According to main dealer, during warranty, (Not covered as "Wear and tear" ) our last cars needed new anti roll bar bushes and bolts. Never reported at any of the subsequent services, or MOTs, by two other garages, during the 12 years that we had them!
You have to watch out for the con artists.
Guess why I did all the servicing once the cars were out of warranty!
|Thread: new member|
being a fully paid up bodger, any chance that you could arrange a drive onto the dud armature from an external motor, using an extension of the existing wiring?
If the machine is worn and well past its sell by date, possibly not worth the effort.
Probably you can get a smaller bench top machine (Sieg S2P say ) for under £1,000. After that, you are probably talking at least 30% more, for a new machine. In all probability, a new machine will be Metric.
But you may be able to find a used machine for a lot less.
Was going to say take a look at Warco's used machines,but almost every used machine has been sold.
You could always post a "Wanted" ad on here, or in MEW.
|Thread: Parting off help!|
IF you can make and fit a rear toolpost, I would urge you so to do.
I made one for my ML7 and never looked back.
When i got my larger lathe, I made a four way rear toolpost. This allows work to be Front, or Back chamfered as well as parted off, leaving the last op to be just a skim to clean up to length.
Pity that I have yet to find a means of fitting one to the original Cross Slide on the mini lathe!
Might be worth doing a bit of drilling and tapping to extend the Cross Slide (although it would then reduce the travel by fouling the splash back. Thinking cap on!
Edited By Howard Lewis on 04/09/2021 17:32:12
|Thread: MT 4 1/2|
Anyone wanting dimensions of almost ANY Taper should look at the "Tools-n-Gizmos" site for Machine Tool Shanks.
|Thread: Machine Lamp Recommendation?|
If you do opt for halogen lamps, it is worth ensuring that the lamp body is well ventilated.
The halogen lamp that came with my lathe takes a 24 Volt 50 Watt lamp, which are not easy to find, and they had a short life. Noting how hot they ran, I removed the "Reflector" and filed a 8 mm wide slot on each side of the rim, to allow air to flow through, before refitting bit..
Since then lamps have lasted MUCH longer. (Asking for trouble, I can't remember when this one was fitted, it was so long ago ).
My experience of cheap LED lamps is that after a fairly short time they start to flicker (Assumed to be one half of the bridge rectifier in the PSU failing. ) The more costly LED lamps, used in the house, don't have this short life. You get what you pay for Buy cheap, buy twice
|Thread: new member|
Lots of restorers of classic equipment on her to give advice, if require.
Would it be cheaper to install a new motor on your mill, than to rewind the existing motor, or to replace the machine?
The motor may be Imperial dimensions, but a suitable replacement, or one that can easily be adapted, should be available. You might have to bore or bush the pulley to fit a Metric shaft, but a motor should be available for a lot less than your quote for a rewind.
It was some time ago, but Home and Workshop Machinery were selling replacement single phase Tyco motors for less than £200. Might be worth investigating them, and on Google.
At least you would operating a machine with which you are familiar.
|Thread: Not a master mechanic|
Like so many programmes of this type, they are intended to strike shock and awe into the unknowledgeable.
As Robert says, using angle grinders on unsuitable materials, without taking the proper precautions.
What would they say about many of us, "Making seals against steam under pressure", or artight,," working to less than the thickness of a human hair".
Would the programme makers understand "Excreta Tauri cerebrum vincit"?
|Thread: Whirlpool cooker|
The customer could try something new and exciting. Use a blowlamp / blowtorch and have flame seared chicken / goose / turkey (select to choice )! Do it on a spit, like they did centuries ago?
But I am not a cook
|Thread: I need to cut chamfers into x64 pieces of mild steel - any advice?|
If you have a Proxon mill, make up a holder, (just a steel (or maybe even a hardwood ) block with a simple clamp to hold the steel at 45 degrees, and fix to the table ( even in a vice (If a tilting one, just tip the vice up at 45 degrees and butt the steel plate against the body of the vice, and mill along the edge.
If no mill, but a fixed sanding disc is available, again make up a jig and use it to pass the plate across the disc. But you will have to control the depth of cut by hand, if you cannot rig up a fence along which to run the jig.
Once the fence is set in the right position to produce the required chamfer and narrow land, the remaining 63 should be easier to make.
|Thread: Parting off help!|
With regard to chatter, if it chatters, and the tool geometry is right, and set on, NOT above, centre height, reduce the speed.
It sounds as if you will not be able to make and fit a rear toolpost.
However, with a flange mounted chuck, you can safely run in reverse., with the parting tool mounted inverted in the front toolpost.
I do not use any top rake, leaving the HSS blade as is, just grinding a clearance on the front, and ensuring that the cutting edge is not, in the case of an inverted blade in the front toolpost, below the centreline. (So that the blade cuts, but does not rub ) having an inverted blade above centreline will encourage the work to try to climb over the tool, probably to the detriment of both.. Again an argument for maximising rigidity and setting the cutting edge on centre height.
Apart from weakening the cutting edge, and reducing the area to conduct away heat, a lot of top rake will encourage the tool to wear or dig in, hence my preference for Zero top rake.
Lubrication will always improve matters. I have rigged up a gravity feed, with a valve to control the flow to a jet mounted on a small magnetic base on the Cross Slide. The reservoir is just a plastic soap dispenser bottle, with a piece of plastic windscreen washer tube rammed onto the spout of the pump, and sited on a shelf above the lathe. Nothing fancy there! Crude but effective.
If you use blades either with a groove on the top, or T section blades, jams are less likely, since the swarf is narrower than the groove being cut..
Edited By Howard Lewis on 03/09/2021 17:56:54
If you have a M10 Die,(and presumably a Die Holder ) you need a length of 10 mm diameter steel bar.
Adjust the Die, using the M10 studding as a gauge, very slightly tight probably.
Use plenty of lubricant (Ideally Trefolex or Rocol RTD ) and cut the length of thread that you need on each end of the bar, once it has been cut to length. At a pinch use grease or oil, even Bacon fat can suffice
Use the lathe, chamfer the end of the embryo stud, and the job will be so much easier and more accurate than trying to cut the thread by hand. (Less risk of drunken threads )
If you do the job under power, I would suggest minimum speed in back gear. Otherwise rotate the chuck by hand, or by means of a Mandrel Handle.
Don't overthink things, remember the radio ham's motto: KISS - Keep It Simple Stupid. Often the simple method is the easiest, using practice rather than high grade theory.
The only worry about the coefficient of friction is whether the nlathe or you have enough grunt to produce what you need.
|Thread: Disposal of swarf|
I put mine into empty, cleaned, food tins, and pound it down with apiece of 1.5" bar, before replacing the lid and hammering the side over to retain the lid.
The tins then go for recycling as scrap metal.
|Thread: Urgent - opinions of lathe I am going to view/buy|
Before you go, studyb the Lathes UK site, to become more familiar with the machine.
It may look scruffy, but what counts is the mechanical condition.
If you are unsure, find someone knowledgeable to take with you to check the machine.
A member of your local M E Club may be willing to help.
Definitely see and hear it run.
Look for wear, (excessive backlash ) in the Leadscrews for the Cross and Top Slides.
Wind the Saddle to and fro, Any tight spots? Or is it sloppy all the way along?
Can you shake the saddle across the ways? If YES, the gibs will need adjusting.
Take a good 12" steel rule, to use as a straight edge to check the bed for wear.t
It has a Quick Change Toolpost. Are there any extra holders?
How many? If just the one, extras might prove expensive to buy, and / or difficult to find.
Any extra lathe tools with the machine?
There seem to be extra chucks, Catchplates, and a Faceplate.
Any Fixed or Travelling steadies? in case you should ever feel the need for one?
If it still looks promising, is any measuring equipment, or tooling such as Taps and Dies, or Drills, included the deal?
|Thread: Cladding material|
Steel would be protoypical, but prone to rusting. Might be better if you could blue it. Presumably the blue oxide film gives better protection from rusting.
(c/f "Russuian iron" for cladding of boilers on full scale locos in the early days of the 20th century. )
Can you get black steel in sheet form?
Brass would be less likely to corrode, but be more expensive.
|Thread: Making a new screw for a bench vice|
Sounds like cutting a new thread may make the vice better than original.
If you make the new thread out of ntwom pieces, may I suggest:
Cut then thread on 1" bar.
Make the "bulb" a clos fit on the plain end of the thread.
Press / Loctite the "bulb" onto the thread and then drillm through the assembly to take the handle.
In this way the handle will provide ma solid drive onto then thread, with the bar reinforced by the "bulb"
Strangely, kempes Yeasr Book does not mention Buttress threads, but A C parkinson in First yrear Engineering Drawing quotes the thread as having a 45 degree flank angle , with mthe thread being truncated by P/8 at bnoth root and creast, giving the actual thread as being 3/4P. So the depth of cut will be 0.15" for a 1" x 5 tpi thread, with a flat at root and crest of thread of 0.025"
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