Here is a list of all the postings Howard Lewis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Neither BSW, BSF, nor BSP list 13 tpi as a standard, so unlikely to be a Whit form (55 degree )thread.
The only 13 tpi listed in Zeus charts seems to be 1/2 - 13 UNC, which will be 60 degree.
|Thread: Parting off small screws - well, it may be new to somebody|
Having made a John Ashton Universal Screw Modification Fixture, I use that.
It means making a holder for every size / thread of screw, (And I HATE mass production, the score now stands at over a dozen! ) but it holds the screw firmly so that it cannot screw itself back in, or get lost.
The time making it and the various holders (From 8-32 UNC up to M8 ) was well spent.
|Thread: Black and Decker hammer drill|
In my limited experience, it is likely to be a 1/2 x 20 UNF main thread, locked for reverse running by the central L H screw.
Once that is out, the usual brutal method is to insert the chuck key and git a hearty wallop in the direction to unscrew the chuck.
A replacement chuck should be available.
I got one, a Jacobs, (From a local hardware stockist ) for my big Bosch pistol drill, from a local stockist.. So any Black and Decker or Bosch stockist ought to be able to supply a replacement.
|Thread: Warco green paint|
Went to check the tin of touch up paint for my WARCO Economy Mill. Put in such a safe place as to be invisible!
With a machine of that age, a few scars are inevitable! You should see my lathe where 20 years of brushing off swarf have scoured the top coat away in places. But it still machines metal satisfactorily.
It is possible that the colour will differ from machine to machine, if the exact RAL number is not specified. I always think of it as "Industrial green" because that is what most machine tools are painted.
So a mill from one Chinese factory may differ in colour from a lathe from another factory. And maybe the same applies to lathes, or mills from different factories. (i e Rong Fu Industrial Green may not be the same as from Weiss.
Accepting some of the quality control issues that have been seen, the colour might even vary from batch to batch!
|Thread: The John Stevenson Trophy 2022|
I would have thought that entries would go to Neil at
to take into account the new owners. This certainly the address at which to contact him, now.
|Thread: Wooden Toolbox Choice|
There is an Engineers Tool Chest in the "For Sale" section for £125
This the one that Alexander Smith 1 has mentioned.
|Thread: Timing Belt|
Take the remains of the belt into your local bearing supplier. they often stock a range of belts, Vee, Polyvee and toothed
They should be able to tell pretty quickly what type of belt it is, and you can then ask for a belt of the length that you require.
Timing belt quality can vary, so choose the best that you can get, and make a note of the type and length, in case it is ever needed in the future..
A lot of diesel cars required belt changes after as little as 30,000 miles, while one other engine, (Perkins Prima ) the recommended change was at 70,000. But I never heard of a failure! (And I have tried to fail one. From memory the supplier was Gates )
Just as well as on an engine, a timing belt failure usually resulted in such damage that repair was uneconomic.
|Thread: Emco Compact 5 - complete newbie|
Not an EMCO owner, but if you wish to make a backplate for any chuck, within reason, once the embryo backplate is a good fit on the Spindle ( Not much point in proceeding if it isn't ) The face and register can be turned to suit the "new" chuck that you have.
With a well fitting Backplate, turning the OD and the face should ensure that they are respectively concentric with, and square to, the lathe axis, and a snug fit in the female register of the incoming chuck.
|Thread: Magnetic + dti + base + recommendations|
Most of the time, I use a Finger clock for centering work in the 4 Jaw.
I gave away my Magnetic base with an "Adjustable" linkage.
the old non adjustable set up may be more slower to set up, but tends to be more rigid.
And what is the point of trying of trying to measure, if the indicator is able to move / deflect.?
If it does, you are effectively measuring with something hanging from a length of string; i e a very poor datum point.
|Thread: Files,hacksaws etc|
An anger grinder is a good way of quickly removing tge majority of the metal from raw material, but being hand held, it will not be a precision result.
One slip and the job is scrap!
Use a file and emery for finishing. A few strokes will remove a small amount of metal.
In the old days, a good fitter could work to within 0.005" with a hammer and cold chisel, before finishing off with a file and then emery.
The men who built the pumping engines for Cornish tin mines did not have the luxury of electricity and angle grinders, but produced some pretty accurate results by hand.
|Thread: Stent tool and cutter grinder|
Probably determined by the maximum size of collet that you have available and can hold on the table?
On my Worden, I use ER20, collets in a shop made holder so the limit 13 mm, which suffices for most purposes, for Drills End Mills or Slot Drills. If a Milling cutter has a shank smaller that the cutting edges, then the limit is set by the shank diameter. ( i e, a 16 mm diameter End mill with a 13 mm shank )
|Thread: cutting a square end on a round shaft?|
For anyone dubious about holding an End Mill in a three jaw chuck; think on this!
In 1958, my chain smoking Turning Instructor showed me his cigarette lighter.
"Made that on nights during the war"
"But you were on lathes, and it is rectangular,"
"Clamp the job in the Toolpost and put an end mill in the chuck"
He was nearing retirement and had been making his living on piecework, so knew a thing or two!
Make a block or pillar, to fit between the underside of the jaw and the lathe bed, to set it horizontal. A simple turning and facing job ) )
The starting point is the end of the bar being turned down to just less than the corner to corner dimension. That puts the required corner relief in place before you start filing the flats.
I am assuming that a newbie may very well not have a Mill.
If one is available, then use a Stevenson square collet block, or having made it, set the first flat vertical with a square, to mill the second and repeat for subsequent flats.
|Thread: Unknown backplate|
What is the thread for the drawbar?
Now for a real red herring!
If 5/8 BSW, it is possible that the taper is a INT 30 or 40, and the device is intended to fit onto a milling machine,, located by the taper and driven by the dogs, so that a chuck could be mounted onto mill?
|Thread: New member|
Not a steam man, but plenty of others on here are, so lots of advice there, just for the asking.
|Thread: MYFORD S 7 BELTS ?|
Would be surprised ikf it was a Z section (A very badly worn A? )
You should be able to find some one in Kings Lynn who could supply suitable replacements.
The argument in favour of using a link belt for the secondary is that it avoids disturbing the Headstock bearings
I heard Roger Warren give just that advice to someone else, years ago when I was looking to buy a BH600.
If all else fails, based on limited dealings with them, I have found Anglia Bearings, in Sturrock Way, Peterborough to be helpful. Although this means quite a long journey form you.
|Thread: Cutting tools|
As you are very newbie, particularly with a lathe designed at the beginning of carbide tools, you will probably learn most by sticking with HSS.
You will need a bench grinder, but hopefully you will learn about grinding tools at the correct angles.
You have spent money buying a lathe, tooling, and hopefully measuring equipment. Now spend a little more and buy some books which will tell you how to use them properly. It will be be far better than having problems and not knowing why or how they have come about, and how to avoid them.
If you don't help yourself, the rest of us can't do much to help you. You are likely to ask the wrong question, and so get wrong answers to the question that you should be asking.
Before, it has been said, find a local Model Engineering Club and join. What you learn, first hand, from members will save a lot of wasted time and material, rather than blundering on in ignorance and bewilderment..
In response to your numerous posts, you have received good advice, from afar. Hopefully, you have taken the advice and learned from it.Now go and find folk who can give it, and guide you face to face,
You will not become a skilled machinist in a matter of weeks, it takes time and you need a lot of tuition, since you are obviously starting from near zero.
If in doubt, err on the side of smaller reliefs rather than large ones (Which will tend to weaken the cutting edge, and shorten tool life, because of the reduced area to conduct heat away from the cutting ares. )
Carbides were invented or industrial machines, rigid and powerful and depend on runnjing hard and fast so the heat produced softens the work locally..
The tool must be set at centre height if it is to cut properly.
Too low and the clearance angles are excessive.
Too high and the tool is likely to rub rather than cut.
One of your early jobs, which which will be a useful learning exercise, and make a tool that you can use for the rest of the time that you have that machine, is a Centre Height Gauge.
By making tools, you will learn (That is why Apprentices are taught how to make their own simple tools. It is part of their learning process, which will stand them in good stead for the rest of their lives, and equip them with tools that they can use. I still have the Tap Wrench made when in the Toolroom for a few weeks. )
I spent the first year of my Apprenticeship learning basic machining processes, which have been useful throughout my career, although not as a machinist.
|Thread: Mill Bolt Source?|
FWIW, Make one!
No need for a forging.
The drawbar on my milll has a hexagon head pinned to the 3/8 BSW drawbar proper and had survived my use for over 20 years.
|Thread: Fortis Vice|
Years ago, I had a Fortis Vice. It was donated to the the club.
From memory, it was painted a dark green, (Napier Green? )
|Thread: A new member with some questions please|
Thank You for the plug for PSME!
Metheringham may a bit far to come, though.
But DEFINITELY find a Club and join. members will help with instruction, advice and help.
We have two boiler inspectors, and normally hold two boiler testing sessions each year..
Sadly, we no longer have a track.
This coming Saturday and Sunday, we have a static display at the Open Farm and Vintage Weekend, at Park Farm, Thorney, on the A47 just outside Peterborough.
Having an agricultural theme, our portable track won't be there, but we should have some Road Engines on display, in a unit at the side of the yard.. One built by one of our Stewards..
Edited By Howard Lewis on 07/06/2022 09:27:31
|Thread: Wooden Toolbox Choice|
Yes, the tannin in Oak can cause corrosion.
Most of my measuring tools are stored in a red painted metal tool box, bought from Machine Mart, a very long tome ago.
It has a narrow top drawer which moves to and fro as the lid is opened, and three sliding full width drawers beneath.
The sliding drawers are held closed until the lid id fully open. The lid is closed by two toggle clips, and can be locked.
It has sufficient capacity that when full, it can hardly be lifted by the handle in the middle of the lid.
Rather utilitarian compared to a proper wooden toolmakers cabinet, but it does the job..
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