Here is a list of all the postings Howard Lewis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Could you get away with this today|
Remember that we will be vilified in two centuries time for our actions and views.
Just as the woke brigade do now for the actions of two centuries ago, when what was tolerable or commonplace was acceptable, but now abhorrent.
No doubt, in two hundred years time, we shall be castigated for using fossil fuels, and plastic, and radios will be a museum novelty, as long as no one thinks about the materials within them and their sources ..
Standards change. Different ships, different splices!
|Thread: EMCO FB2 Head Unit|
If you need Start or Run capacitors, you local motor rewinding shop should be able to provide what you need.
When the capacitor on my compressor failed, a trip to the other side of town provided what was needed, and again for a neighbour's lawnmower. In nboth cases, the wires carried push on connectors (Lucar, in myspeak )Cost? £6
|Thread: What taper does this mill use|
You have at least one arbor that fits, so ,measure that and then take a look at "Tools-n-Gizmos"
That lists a large range of tapers,mand their dimensions, so you may find what you seek on there.
|Thread: J & S 1310|
Have a look at "Tools-n-Gizmos"
They list many tapers and their dimensions, so yours may be among them, somewhere.
Could it be a B & S taper, possibly? Nearest might be No.11
Have just consulted my Apprentice training notes.
Inetrnational Taper is 3.5" per foot.
No.30 INT Length, flange to end 2.625" , Major diameter 1.25" Parallel diameter 0.5625"
No.40 INT Length, flange to end 3.5625" Major Diameter 1.75" Parallel diameter 0.6406"
No.50 INT Length, flange to end 5.125", Major diameter 2.750" Parallel diameter 1.250"
|Thread: Workshop content|
Sorry to hear of your problems, must be very sad for you.
Your local M E Club may well be able to help with listing, (Could then be posted on the Classifieds on her, once you have made sufficient postings ) and probably disposal
Some Clubs even hold auctions for members workshop contents.
|Thread: Rust Protection|
For rust to form there must be Oxygen and Water (Moisture )
If the air is above the dew point, moisture will not condense on a cold surface.
Alternatively, if the relative humidity is low, condensation is less likely.
Summing it up, ideally; keep the air dry (Dehumidifier ) and above the dew point (Heater, but dry heat, NOT combustion , unless the products of combustion are vented directly outside.
What can t you do/
Insulate the shop. (My small wooden shop has 50 mm glass fibre in all walls and the roof. A 2 Kw fan heater usually runs for about 15 mins before the thermostat shuts off. Then, it runs for about ten minutes in each hour. But my shop is small and in UK, East Anglia.)
Ventilate; with a vent as low as possible. Moist air is heavier than dry, so a low vent allows it to go outside.
(Church walls without a damp course are kept dry by unglazed tubes set into the wall so that they slope downwa towards the outside.
This implies a high level vent to allow air in to replace the moist air that goes out through the low level vent.
(My shop has two small fixed vents at floor level and a high level intake for an intake fan, with an external hood open at the bottom to exclude rain. )
As said, dispense with the duvet, since this may retain moisture.
The old, uninsulated, shop, the oil on the Myford was often milky and emulsifying with moisture. The insulated shop, rust is almost unknown. In winter, a 60 Watt tubular heater under the bench is left on and after a couple of days the steel benches are just warm to the touch,
So ventilate, keep as dry and as warm as possible.
|Thread: Hi from the sunny south coast of Dorset|
You will find lots of advice and help, on here.
If possible, find a local Model Engineering Club and join.
You will see the work of others and can ask questions about how ikt was made.
You'll soon pick things up.
Learn the basics first of all, and then start studying the more complicated procedures.
But remember that different folk will have different ways of dealing with a problem, depending on their experience, skill and the equipment available.
|Thread: gr 8.8 ht bolt steel which carbide tip|
FWIW, from time to time, I turn 8.8 grade fasteners quite happily with HSS tools.
They need to be sharp and on centre height, with a fine feed.
Carbide tips are not as sharp as a properly ground HSS. In this way, they generate the heat at the point of contact to soften the material.
If you must use carbide tips, increasing the speed, so that you are running at about 3-400 fpm may help.
May be difficult to run fast enough if you are attacking a M8 bolt!
Edited By Howard Lewis on 06/10/2021 11:46:33
|Thread: New to a Myford|
Don't be afraid to ask, there was a time when none of us had seen let alone operated a lathe, and had to learn.
Having had a lathe, you are already some way up the learning curve.
None of us get it right every time, which is part of the learning process.
Almost every post contains something of interest.
You will plenty of other classic bike enthusiasts on here, so are not alone.
|Thread: Stolen Locos|
These are the locos referred to in my earlier post, but could not insert the notice from the Northern Fed.
Hope that they are found, undamaged and returned.
|Thread: Model of an epicyclic gear made by apprentices|
There is single cylinder open crank Blackstone, a runner, at The WaterWorks Museum in Hereford.
From the presence of a Dobbie McKinnies indicator and provision for a Prony brake, it probably came from a Technical College.
Hope to drive over there, for a days volunteering on Sunday 17th, which suspect will be the last working Sunday for 2021.
Some of the last cast iron sumps seen outside at Stamford.were large enough to use as a coffin! Larger than the ones to which I was accustomed.
Going off thread, the mention of crankcase explosions, filled me with fear. Read a book on main propulsion engines and there was a photo of the after effects of one in an engine with two staircases leading from bedplate level to cylinder head. Both were twisted like paper clips!
Apparently, the rate of pressure rise was such that the varnished brown paper bursting discs, intended to guard against such things, failed too slowly to prevent damage.
I witnessed one from across a car park in a motorway service area. Sudden bulge in bonnet, and clouds of smoke, from a car which had screamed down the motorway and entered the car park at about 70 mph with tyres screaming, before switching off
A colleague worked at Blackstones when they were trying to develop "explosion proof" crankcase doors. Apparently, seeing a door weighing over a hundred weight flying across the shop was something e!se.
Another colleague was standing beside an engine on test when it suffered a crankcase explosion. The sump fell onto the bedplate, leaving the flange still securely bolted to the underside of the crankcase!
There is a two cylinder Allen diesel engine, with various windows, motored as an exhibit, at The WaterWorks Museum, in Hereford.
|Thread: Hardening gauge plate (O1)|
My recollection of heat treatment areas is that the foreman carried a little book in his pocket, as a reference manual, to his many years of experience., Something along the lines of "That should have 30 minutes, but best to give it 35"
Or the need to quench really suddenly, and in a particular orientation, as Tug says, to prevent distortion.
Sometimes more black art than precision, to get the job right!
|Thread: Crankshaft Factory|
Unfortunately, the back street manufacturers, do not have the drawings, or technical knowledge and Engineer back up to make the part correct to spec. When the thing fails early, the engine OEM gets the blame for some substandard part!
The quantity being produced suggests a steady market for replacements.
We found some "Replacement" lift pumps that had carefully copied a defect that we spotted early on and eliminated from genuine spares. Often these pirates do not really understand what they are making, and so proper heat treatment or exact material composition tends to be ignored.
In a market with no previous experience, an engine that wears out or fails after 500 hours is thought to be the norm, rather than 5 or 6,000, hours before needing even a minor overhaul for a genuine article.
In such an area, anything that is more powerful than a donkey, and can carry 3 people, and their goods, to and from market without getting tired, is considered to be an improvement..
I have seen a pick up so overloaded.that the front wheels left the road at every slight bump!
Remember the single cylinder tricycle truck being loaded to take away the finished product, in the video!
A VW Beetle started from cold by lighting a fire under the sump!
A tractor, power tested by counting how many bricks, on a pallet, it can pull up a hill.
Parts joined using different threads, "But, it's got a thread on it" (1/4 BSP onto M12! )
Different worlds from ours.
|Thread: Unwanted Taper|
With a 1 MT Headstock, you can't really make your own Alignment bar, since anything slim enough to pass through will be too slender to be rigid, even if you do have a 4 jaw independent chuck.
So it looks like buying an alignment bar, even if it won't see much use. The cost will be offset by the savings on scrap that you don't make once everything is lined up.
When clocking along the bar, make sure that the Saddle gibs are sensibly, but not over, tight.
If the Saddle is flopping about the readings will be useless.
Hopefully, aligning the headstock in the horizontal m,plane will only entail slackening the fastenings and a little tapping.
But you may as well go the whole hog and remove to ensure that all the mating faces are clean and free of burrs.
If you have any doubts about the fixings, check them.
A friend had a ML4 that produced tapers. Someone had removed the Headstock and cross threaded one of the studs. As soon as that nut was tightened it went out of line. We made up an alignment fixture, clamped in the opposite stud, to drill out the hole gradually from 1/4 BSF until it could be tapped square as 3/8 BSF. We had already made up a 3/8 BSF / 1/4 BSF bush, and Loctited into p[lace. the Headstock could then be aligned and tightened, and stay in alignment.
You may need to go down the same road.
Once the Headstock alignment is certain, the Tailstockm is next on the list, firstly horizontally, again with no slop in the gobs, then, hopefully the Tailstock and Headstock centres will be on the same level
You just keeping eliminating errors, one at a time, until the machine is as good as you can get it
Hopefully; you will get there!
|Thread: Old rule divisions twelfs etc|
I couldn't, but my turning instructor once put his knarled thumb and worn rule against my job and told me that I had "About 0.010" to take off. The depth mic told me 0.008", so he probably could have!
My Milling instructor told us always to check a steel rule. It was easy to be accurate with the small subdivisions, but get bit wrong by losing sight of the inches!
|Thread: Home Made Lathe, Safe?|
A bench grinder for £12.50 sounds like a bargain.
Definitely one for the DIYer's Black Museum, to my mind.
Wonder how well the Headstock is aligned to the Bed? With difficulty?
Maybe a sow's ear waiting to be changed into something better, but will take a lot of work and time to become a silk purse or anything approaching it.
But it is a starting point for a budding machinist to gain experience
|Thread: Turning, Milling and Drilling Speeds|
PM me with an E mail address and I'll dig out my training notes from 1958, at Sentinel, R-R Oil Engine Division, copy them and send them to you. They won't cover carbides.
They may be still be applicable, certainly a good starting point, to start experimenting.. Things may differ from one machine to another. What works well on a Warco BH600, may not work as well on a Myford ML4!
You can also have a table showing feed per tooth for Milling cutters, if it will help.
The sharpness or otherwise of tools will have an effect, though.
Grinding the tool to the right geometry will have a big effect on surface finish.
Replaceable Carbide tips will have the right geometry, but the holder will need to be correct as well to ensure that the cutting tip IS at the correct angle to the workpiece.
Older machines may not be sufficiently rigid, or fast enough to obtain the best results from Carbides, which were developed for heavy, fast, rigid Industrial machinery.
|Thread: Clock Stand with a difference|
Might be a daft idea, but.
Take an angle plate and check that the faces are truly square to each other.
Clamp to the Surface plate.
Clamp the Base to the Angle Plate
Set a clock to Zero on the bottom of the column.
Move clock to top of column.
Disregarding any sag, if the readings are both Zero, the column is square to the base.
Rotate base by 90 degrees, and repeat for the other plane
The clock should tell you how far the column is out of square to the base, so that the base can be, presumably, scraped to eliminate the errors.
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