Here is a list of all the postings Howard Lewis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
At least we now have a Record ( ! ) of a device being renovated and returned to useful service.
(Oh dear two "vices" , must be one of mine to stick to UK spellings )
Age is NO barrier, some are older than you!
You have a background in Engineering, so the machining processes will be familiar, and most certainly the measuring techniques (Possibly better than many of us! )
Whereabouts are you located?
If possible, find a local M E club and join. Your memories will soon be revived, and you will be able to help others as well.
Edited By Howard Lewis on 22/10/2021 08:17:25
|Thread: A workholding question.|
+1 for a close fitting arbor and clamping bolt / capscrew method, as illustrated by others.
Alternatively, mount the disc vertically in the vice to mill the first two slots.
Then make up a simple fixture to locate in the two slots to ensure alignment, and mill the second pair.
Since you are making several, it would be worth making up a jig, which could also be used for drilling
(and reaming? ) the holes for the rods..
With modification, it could also be used to hold the disc horizontally, for boring the bearing housing.
Once made, the jig will save time on machining the discs
|Thread: Hello from East Northamptonshire|
Welcome to the Forum!
Since you plan to start by building a traction engine, presumably, you are familiar with machining techniques, and well equipped?
Whereabouts are you in East Northamptonshire?
If possible, join a M E Club. Peterborough S M E is getting back into its stride after been locked down for so long, and so will others, no doubt.
|Thread: REPTON RT1 LOST THREAD|
Yes that's the one.
Having viewed it, Making a means of stopping swarf getting into the taper roller bearing is on the "To do" list, now.
The mini lathe certainly seems to slow down appreciably when he puts on the cut, or maybe that is an optical and audible illusion.
Never got on with the "genuine" instructions, so wondered if this would be an improvement..
My method has been to use a fixture to center the tool, and the Top Slide to apply the cut. So shall most probably stick with what has worked for me.up until now.
Again, Thanks for finding it for me.
Thank You Michael, but that's not the one.
Within a thread there was a Video posted of a Repton RT1 being set up, and having a guard made and fitted to keep swarf out of the taper roller bearing.
Frustratingly, I cannot now find it to study bin greater detail, despite checking almost every post since the beginning of October, and I am sure that it was this month!
Recently there was a thread containing a Video of setting up and using a REPTON RT1 radius turning attachment.
Meant to go back and watch it, but can't find it despite looking through the October postings.
Anyone know where it can be found please?
|Thread: Tool identification|
Forgot to say that my Centre Height Gauge has two blades. The lower one is there to set the parting tool that is mounted, inverted in the rear toolpost.
Tools in the front toolpost should be set to the underside of the upper blade.
|Thread: Hi Far from new/poorly bench top lathe|
There is a Drummond, which appears to be a B type, treadle operated, in a corner of the Rotherwas House at The WaterWorks Museum in Hereford.
Hopefully, before too long, it will be located where it can be occasionally demonstrated..
|Thread: Tool identification|
If a tool is to cut properly, it needs to be mounted so that the cutting edge is on centre height.
A slight radius on the cutting edge will improve surface finish, but must extend down the edge to ensure that only the point contacts the work, to prevent the lower part of the tool rubbing.
With regard to describing the hand of the tool, when the tool is mounted, if the edge points towards the chuck, to cut, it is a Right Hand Tool A Left hand Tool faces towards the Tailstock.
Think of it as if you are looking on the point of the tool from the other side of the lathe.
One of my hobby horses is to advise making a Centre Height Gauge, to which tools can be set.
If the tool is on centre height, it should cut well and not produce a pip when facing the end of a bar.
It is easy to make, a good learning exercise, and a saver of time, and frustration in the future.
Somewhere among my albums, there is a picture of the one that I use.
The important thing is ensure the column and base are perpendicular to another. Holding the column in the chuck, and just skimming the base is the easy way of achieving this.
|Thread: Clock Stand with a difference|
A good job, Graham!
To get within a few microns in a home workshop is excellent accuracy, and as stand for a clock, it will not be subjected to the forces that might be involved if it were used a height gauge to scribe lines.
As usual, WELL DONE!
|Thread: Seal selection|
Before fitting the lipseal to the shaft,and housing, make sure that the shaft is lubricated, so that the lip does not run dry. If there is a keyway, ,or thread on the shaft, wrap that in masking tape before fitting the seal, to prevent damage to the lip.
|Thread: ML10 Headstock mounts|
Just thought, by "mount" do you mean a ring dowel which surrounds the clamping bolt?
If all else fails, carefully measuring the two holes in the Headstock and bed will provide dimensions to which you can make a ring dowel, if that is what you need. The OD is the important dimension, the bolt can be in a clearance hole through the ring dowel..
Are you looking for a replacement bolt?
If you are, the thread is likely to be Imperial, BSW or BSF rather than metric.
Check that the tapping has not been damaged . (Once I came across a lathe where one tapping had been crossthreaded, and tightening that fixing pulled the Headstock out of alignment. )
Once you have the Headstock capable of being firmly clamped, you need to ensure that it is correctly aligned when in place.
For this, you will need to an Alignment Bar, located in the Morse taper in the mandrel, rather than in a chuck,
Once the Headstock is correctly aligned, holding the Alignment between centres (Having trimmed up the Headstock centre in situ ) the Tailstock can be aligned..
|Thread: Parting off - front or rear|
FWIW, having had problems with parting iff in the front toolpost on a Myford, after making and fitting a rear toolpost , never looked back.
When I changed my lathe, one of the first jobs was to make a four way indexing rear toolpost.
Am now so confident, with a very old HSS blade, that I often part off under power!
Trying a carbide tip parting tool, in the front toolpost resulted in jam ups, and finally damage to the holder!
|Thread: Flexispeed Lathe|
FWIW, DON'T sell the 4 jaw!
A 3 jaw may be OK for a lot of work, but will not hold work absolutely concentric.
For square or irregular work, or stuff that needs to be machined as concentric as possible, or eccentric to its centreline, a 4 Jaw will be the invaluable.method.
|Thread: Chester 920 cross slide & Backlash|
The grubscrews on the front of the cross slide are to adjust the gib strips, so that the cross slide moves without sideways play.
If your lathe is a Warco, have you approached them for a new nut?
If not, find the imported and ask them.
Bear in mind that 920 ,lathes may have been made by different factories, (Such as Sieg, Real Bull or Weiss ) so whilst spares from another Lathe may fit yours, others may not.
You have to have some backlash between Leadscrew and Nut, or the parts would be immovable. So to find 0.25 mm backlash might be quite acceptable. A skilled operator can produce superb work on a badly worn machine.
|Thread: Hello from the UK|
Until you have become familiar with the machines, their use, and measuring, I would suggest making small accessories and tools, rather than diving straight into models.
Making an error on a piece of mild steel will be cheaper and less daunting than an expensive casting!
And, as you learn you can be making tools and accessories that will be useful in the future.
A Centre Height Gauge, a Mandrel Handle, Saddle Stop, or Tap Wrenches will always be useful for any project, and give you experience and confidence..
If you can find a Model Engineering Club within a reasonable distance, joi it. You can get advice face to face, and sometimes members will demonstrate techniques.
|Thread: All the gear and no idea !|
If you are real newbie to machine work, it may pay to read some books to explain things.
A set of Zeus charts will often be used for reference.
For lathework, L H Spaey's "The Amateurs lathe", Ian Bradley's "The Amateurs Workshop" (deals with other workshop techniques ) then there.are books by Harold Hall and Neil Wyatt on "Lathework".
If the small Clark lathe is a mini lathe, both Neil Wyatt and David Clark (No connection to Machine Mart as far as I know) have written books on it
As an aside, you will get far more help and advice from Arc Euro Trade than Machine Mart. The difference is knowledge of the the machines and their accessories.
Harold hall has also written a book on Milling, and the Workshop Practice Series will cover similar ground and MANY other aspects of machining and benchwork.
When you find a need for a four jaw chuck, measuring instruments, and other accessories, look at the established Model Engineering Suppliers. They are more likely to stock what you want, and will know what they are taliking about to guide you in the right direction.
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
To find what size T nuts you need, measure the T slots on the Vertical Slide, and then make nuts a little smaller (So that there is clearance ) 0.1 mm clearance on each dimension should suffice. The T nut must not match, or protrude above the surface, or it will not clamp.
Beware of the stud / bolt going right through the T nut. Centre pop the threads on the underside of the T nut to prevent this.
A bolt or stud going right through could result in cracking the T slot, by contacting the bottom of the T slot and forcing the T nut upwards against the top,of the slot.!
You have Drills, Taps, the Vertical Slide and a Vice for for it, so you have the kit to make your own T nuts,
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