Here is a list of all the postings Howard Lewis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Clock Stand with a difference|
A good job, Graham!
To get within a few microns in a home workshop is excellent accuracy, and as stand for a clock, it will not be subjected to the forces that might be involved if it were used a height gauge to scribe lines.
As usual, WELL DONE!
|Thread: Seal selection|
Before fitting the lipseal to the shaft,and housing, make sure that the shaft is lubricated, so that the lip does not run dry. If there is a keyway, ,or thread on the shaft, wrap that in masking tape before fitting the seal, to prevent damage to the lip.
|Thread: ML10 Headstock mounts|
Just thought, by "mount" do you mean a ring dowel which surrounds the clamping bolt?
If all else fails, carefully measuring the two holes in the Headstock and bed will provide dimensions to which you can make a ring dowel, if that is what you need. The OD is the important dimension, the bolt can be in a clearance hole through the ring dowel..
Are you looking for a replacement bolt?
If you are, the thread is likely to be Imperial, BSW or BSF rather than metric.
Check that the tapping has not been damaged . (Once I came across a lathe where one tapping had been crossthreaded, and tightening that fixing pulled the Headstock out of alignment. )
Once you have the Headstock capable of being firmly clamped, you need to ensure that it is correctly aligned when in place.
For this, you will need to an Alignment Bar, located in the Morse taper in the mandrel, rather than in a chuck,
Once the Headstock is correctly aligned, holding the Alignment between centres (Having trimmed up the Headstock centre in situ ) the Tailstock can be aligned..
|Thread: Parting off - front or rear|
FWIW, having had problems with parting iff in the front toolpost on a Myford, after making and fitting a rear toolpost , never looked back.
When I changed my lathe, one of the first jobs was to make a four way indexing rear toolpost.
Am now so confident, with a very old HSS blade, that I often part off under power!
Trying a carbide tip parting tool, in the front toolpost resulted in jam ups, and finally damage to the holder!
|Thread: Flexispeed Lathe|
FWIW, DON'T sell the 4 jaw!
A 3 jaw may be OK for a lot of work, but will not hold work absolutely concentric.
For square or irregular work, or stuff that needs to be machined as concentric as possible, or eccentric to its centreline, a 4 Jaw will be the invaluable.method.
|Thread: Chester 920 cross slide & Backlash|
The grubscrews on the front of the cross slide are to adjust the gib strips, so that the cross slide moves without sideways play.
If your lathe is a Warco, have you approached them for a new nut?
If not, find the imported and ask them.
Bear in mind that 920 ,lathes may have been made by different factories, (Such as Sieg, Real Bull or Weiss ) so whilst spares from another Lathe may fit yours, others may not.
You have to have some backlash between Leadscrew and Nut, or the parts would be immovable. So to find 0.25 mm backlash might be quite acceptable. A skilled operator can produce superb work on a badly worn machine.
|Thread: Hello from the UK|
Until you have become familiar with the machines, their use, and measuring, I would suggest making small accessories and tools, rather than diving straight into models.
Making an error on a piece of mild steel will be cheaper and less daunting than an expensive casting!
And, as you learn you can be making tools and accessories that will be useful in the future.
A Centre Height Gauge, a Mandrel Handle, Saddle Stop, or Tap Wrenches will always be useful for any project, and give you experience and confidence..
If you can find a Model Engineering Club within a reasonable distance, joi it. You can get advice face to face, and sometimes members will demonstrate techniques.
|Thread: All the gear and no idea !|
If you are real newbie to machine work, it may pay to read some books to explain things.
A set of Zeus charts will often be used for reference.
For lathework, L H Spaey's "The Amateurs lathe", Ian Bradley's "The Amateurs Workshop" (deals with other workshop techniques ) then there.are books by Harold Hall and Neil Wyatt on "Lathework".
If the small Clark lathe is a mini lathe, both Neil Wyatt and David Clark (No connection to Machine Mart as far as I know) have written books on it
As an aside, you will get far more help and advice from Arc Euro Trade than Machine Mart. The difference is knowledge of the the machines and their accessories.
Harold hall has also written a book on Milling, and the Workshop Practice Series will cover similar ground and MANY other aspects of machining and benchwork.
When you find a need for a four jaw chuck, measuring instruments, and other accessories, look at the established Model Engineering Suppliers. They are more likely to stock what you want, and will know what they are taliking about to guide you in the right direction.
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
To find what size T nuts you need, measure the T slots on the Vertical Slide, and then make nuts a little smaller (So that there is clearance ) 0.1 mm clearance on each dimension should suffice. The T nut must not match, or protrude above the surface, or it will not clamp.
Beware of the stud / bolt going right through the T nut. Centre pop the threads on the underside of the T nut to prevent this.
A bolt or stud going right through could result in cracking the T slot, by contacting the bottom of the T slot and forcing the T nut upwards against the top,of the slot.!
You have Drills, Taps, the Vertical Slide and a Vice for for it, so you have the kit to make your own T nuts,
|Thread: Randa lathe has me much confused|
Welcome. Don't be afraid to ask questions on here.
You can find out more about the lathe by visiting the Lathes UK site.
Already, you are finding out about naming the various parts of a lathe, and their function.
Back gear is used to slow the Mandrel relative to the incoming drive. By releasing the pulley (as you already know, by slackening / removing the grubscrew ) The pulley then drives the mandrel through the two stage reduction provided by the Back Gear.
Leaving the grubscrew in place will lock everything, since the pulley id trying to drive the Mandrel at two different speeds at the same time.
Do not be tempted to use this to lock the mandrel to unscrew a stuck chuck! That is a short cut to knocking teeth off the gears.
Changeears allow the Leadscrew to be driven at different speed from that of the mandrel, so that threads of different pitches can be cut on the material in the chuck.
The gear train required for a given thread will depend up the pitch of the Leadscrew on a particular machine.
Many (But not all! ) lathes produced to Imperial standards used a Leadscrew with 8 Threads Per Inch (tpi )
So, purely as an example, if a 12 tpi thread needed to be cut, the changewheels would be arranged to give a ratio of 1.5:1 between mandrel and Leadscrew. So the gear vtrain might be set up Mandrel 30T, to drive a 45T gear on the Leadscrew with an Idler in between. The number of teeth on the idler will not matter since it does not affect the overall ratio. The essential thing is that the mandrel revolves 1.5 turns while the leadscrew rotates for each turn of the Leadscrew.
In some cases the Idler may have to be a compound gear (Two, of different tooth counts, joined together )
But those are lessons to learn further along.
by arranging a suitably large ratio, between Mandrel and leadscrew, a power feed can be arranged to provide a fine finish.
But in early days, you need to become familiar with the controls, and how to set tools at centre height (To ensure that they cut properly ) and to operated the handles / handwheels to provide a steady feed.
Reading L H Sparey's Book "The Amateur's Lathe", Ian Bradley's "The Amateurs Workshop", Harold Hall's "Lathework", or Neil Wyatt's "Lathework" be explain a lot of things.
Being an older design of lathe, you would probably be better using High Speed Tools, usually referred to as HSS. This will then let you in for buying a bench grinder, so that you learn how to grind tools.
A set of Zeus charts will be useful. You will refer to them often (I still use mine, bough as an Apprentice in 1958 )
Another book that you may well come to find a useful reference is Tubal Cain's "Model Engineers Handbook"
When you eventually come to cutting threads with Taps and Dies, yo will find No 12 in the Workshop Practice Series, "drills, Taps and Dies" helpful. For this work always use a cutting lubricant such a Trefolex or Rocol RTD, and back the Tap or Die every half turn, to break the swarf; rather than the Tap! taps break through bending rather that excess torque (But if gets tight, back off anyway )
Find a Model Engineering Club near you, if possible, and join. In this way, you can get face to face advice, and possibly demonstrations.
|Thread: All the gear and no idea !|
hello Paul, and WELCOME.
Quite a few bike enthusiasts on here, and there are always folk prepared to answer questions, and some, if near to you, to provide practical help.
|Thread: Watch out for scam emails from a forum member|
This may be a variation of the "I've just been mugged in Kiev, and lost everything. Please send me some money" scam.
(Odd, since the previous day the "sender " was in California. )
Anything suspicious, I look at the sender address..
A deceased friend was sending from Russia, in one instance!
Often the E mail address ends in "ru", "de" or "fr"
|Thread: Plastic Chuck|
A chuck made of composite materialm is an interesting concept and could have its uses.
But being heavy handed, I would prefer steel or cast iron chuck.
And backplates are available for a variety of chucks, so that you can arrive at a combination that suits your needs
I am sure that Arc Euro will help with advice as to what you need
|Thread: Milling on a Lathe with a Vertical Slide|
Now that you have jury rig, you can now make your own T nuts! And a load of other things, as the need arises!
|Thread: Good morning all, new member here.|
As Noel says, ask a question on almost any subject and someone on here will try to help
Keep ,us posted on the refurbishment, please. We may well ,learn from you
|Thread: Could you get away with this today|
Remember that we will be vilified in two centuries time for our actions and views.
Just as the woke brigade do now for the actions of two centuries ago, when what was tolerable or commonplace was acceptable, but now abhorrent.
No doubt, in two hundred years time, we shall be castigated for using fossil fuels, and plastic, and radios will be a museum novelty, as long as no one thinks about the materials within them and their sources ..
Standards change. Different ships, different splices!
|Thread: EMCO FB2 Head Unit|
If you need Start or Run capacitors, you local motor rewinding shop should be able to provide what you need.
When the capacitor on my compressor failed, a trip to the other side of town provided what was needed, and again for a neighbour's lawnmower. In nboth cases, the wires carried push on connectors (Lucar, in myspeak )Cost? £6
|Thread: What taper does this mill use|
You have at least one arbor that fits, so ,measure that and then take a look at "Tools-n-Gizmos"
That lists a large range of tapers,mand their dimensions, so you may find what you seek on there.
|Thread: J & S 1310|
Have a look at "Tools-n-Gizmos"
They list many tapers and their dimensions, so yours may be among them, somewhere.
Could it be a B & S taper, possibly? Nearest might be No.11
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