Here is a list of all the postings Howard Lewis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dialect expressions|
In Herefordshire, if you were a bit "Naish", you went indoors to eat your "Bait". (Felt the cold: ate your lunch )
In Sussex, a snicket was what I knew as an alley. ( Although as a child, that meant a glass marble, not an earthenware one )
Some people call an adjustable (spanner ) a shifter. Presumably because the one jaw would shift to allow a nut or bolt to, be shifted.
Nowt as odd as folk
|Thread: Microsoft Pop Ups|
Since the last update to Windows 7, in Outlook, every ten seconds or so, I get a pop up inviting me to enter my pass word. Clicking on "OK" does not stop this repeating.
It does not seem to prevent me using Outlook in the normal way
Does anyone else have this problem?
And, more importantly, is there a way to disable this annoying feature?
|Thread: Problem with penetrating oil can|
1) Being an engineer, can you not drill the plastic fitting, or make a suitable fitting, to take the tube?
2) Buy a large can of WD40, (or AC90 from Cromwell Tools). Decant into a n ex household spray bottle, and be the Mister Muscle of the workshop!
|Thread: Help to identify a tool that came with a Centec 2A|
Wild guess, but would it fit as a stop on the vertical dovetail?
Otherwise, no idea, I'm afraid.
|Thread: LED replacement bulbs|
It may be the quality of the Chinese LEDs that causes the proble. We have a two lamp, reading lamp, meant for 60W E27 incandescent lamps. Because of the heat, I removed the shades and milled two 1/4" wide slots to improve ventilation.
Cheapie Chinese LEDS did not last more than a year in the fittings, (On for about 5 hours per evening) before they developed what looked like a 50 Hz flicker.. Lamps from better sources have lasted longer, so I got what I paid for!
|Thread: From the ground up!|
The detents for the tumbler reverse are on the other side of the plate. So it looks as if the Tumbler Reverse needs to be hooked over the plate before sliding the Plate and Tumbler Reverse onto the stud.
In that way, the gears will mesh and the plunger will drop into the detents.
|Thread: myford leadscrew|
Also, if the Handwheel is tight up against the Tailstock end bearing, it will make turning the Handle hard. You only need just enough clearance to allow it to turn, with minimal endfloat on the leadscrew.
|Thread: From the ground up!|
So maybe, my pal's lathe is a ML3 not a ML2 as he thinks. I was merely regurgitating what i understood from Lathes UK, so maybe I misunderstood.
The main thing is to get it set up and running, now!
Newton's 4th law. If you leave a space between the last character and the bracket, it doesn't happen.
No prizes for guessing how I found out! Just have to keep remembering to hit the space bar before the bracket.
Not easy with my memory!
|Thread: Warco vmc chester 626 lubrication|
If the machine has not seen much use, it is possible that the lipseal has not yet bedded fully to the seal diameter on the shaft. It may be that the grease in the seal has hardened, and when the grease warms up with extended use, it will soften and allow the seal to bed, and function as intended.
I should live with it. Either the seal will bed in, or the excess grease will work its way out.. Only worry of it continues to leak.
That was my first thought, but definitely NOT Myford 1 1/8 x 12. threads don't even touch.
The register is 1 1/4" and measuring the core dia of the thread and adding twice the thread depth comes out near enough to 1 1/4.
Just want them to go to where they would be useful, rather than acting as door stops.
|Thread: From the ground up!|
Study Tony Griffiths "Lathes UK" website, pages about the Myford ML1, 2,3 and 4.
It is a mine of useful information.
With a lathe of that vintage, all the threads should be Whit form. (i. e. The extra two tappings to clamp the swivel on the Topslide are 1/4 BSF. The Banjo is clamped with a 5/16 BSW setscrew. ) If the mandrel is 7/8" diameter, it will be either 9 tpi on earlier models, or 12 tpi on later ones.
Early models were flat belt drive, but later ones were V belt drive, or had been converted.
Early MLs were 3 1/8" Centre Height, but later ones were 3 1/2". I found that out the hard way; by assuming that the one I was going to help to return to service was 3 1/8". When I got to it, it was 3 1/2" and i had made a Centre Height Gauge for 3 1/8"! But the Mandrel was 7/8 x 9 tpi, so possibly a transition or field fix hybrid?
Not all machines had Tumbler Reverse; that was an optional extra, and ones without it do not have the tappings to fit it. Although, Tony Griffiths says that some owners have managed to fit the Tumbler Reverse from a ML7.
There are two tappings at the back of the Headstock. Those, I found out are for the cast bracket that carries the Changewheel Guard. Guards that hinge sideways are rare. Normally, they hinge upwards.
Changewheels are compounded by a 3/32" pin in a drilling which only goes part way through the gear. ML7 gears, with a keyway, can be used, by drilling a 3/32" hole for the pin.
Tony refers to some machines being factory painted in "Vomit Green"!
Edited By Howard Lewis on 07/04/2019 19:14:48
I have been given a 155mm Three Jaw Chuck, with only one set of jaws, and a Catch Plate.
Both appear to be for a lathe with a 1 1/4" x 12 tpi Whit form thread Mandrel.
If anyone, in UK, can make use of them, please PM me so that we can arrange collection. (Three possibilities )
|Thread: What makes your bristle?|
Sop far no one has been given the brush off!
Old toothbrushes are handy for cleaning taps after use, or threads in screw on chucks (Like Heinecken, they can reach the parts that paint brushes cannot! )
For our some of far flung overseas readers, Heinecken is a lager sold in UK.
I'll leave now!
|Thread: Simple WorkshopTips|
I made my swarf collectors by soldering a copper disc onto the end of some 15 mm copper pipe and carefully facing to thin it. ( Not always successfully! ) A telescopic stick magnet inside collects the swarf, and an O ring on the outside prevents the swarf following up the tube as the magnet is withdrawn over the bin.
My swarf is dumped into clean tins (ex Kitchen ) and when nearly full, the lid is replaced and the rim hammered down, before being put into the recycling bin.
|Thread: Lathe Carriage Stop|
A nice piece of work!
My carriage stop was made to carry a Micrometer barrel. From the way that the barrel is graduated, it was meant for this use. But,to prevent it being moved under power, I disengage the feed about 0.025" (Luddite! ) before it, and use the handwheel to "feel" up to the stop.
Edited By Howard Lewis on 06/04/2019 11:53:01
|Thread: War o wm18|
Not having a captive drawbar, I removed the nut (LH thread) retaining the pulley to the spindle. Turned back the under side, to form a register . Bolted a plate with two tapped holes further out, on opposite sides.
Fit to machine so that the plate is seated on the register on the underside of the nut.
Made up a plate with two clearance holes to match the spacing of the tapped holes, but with a central tapped hole.
M6 should suffice, I used 1/4 BSF threads, in 3mm plate
When it comes time to change the tool: Slacken drawbar by a turn or so, attach upper plate with two bolts, tighten central forcing screw. Taper usually separates, without need to thump the bearings on the quill. If it doesn't, a light tap on the tight forcing screw does the trick.
|Thread: Todays DUMBO award|
As an Apprentice, once ran a face mill in reverse, and wondered why it didn't cut well.
Much more recently, modified the lathe to halve the feed rate. Trying to cut a 1.5 mm pitch thread, but could not get it right. Reason: obsessed with the 3 setting, so set 3 on the Norton box instead of the correct setting. Funnily, once the proper setting was used; the nut screwed on. Strange?
"The man who never made a mistake, never made anything"
|Thread: Knurling speed|
That's interesting! Never thought of knurling the face of a job, only ever the circumference. Food for though there, if only for decoration.
|Thread: Fings wot I've learned in a month|
We all gain experience as we go through life; some good, and some useful, but not so enjoyable.
"Experience is what allows you to identify the mistake, the next time that you make it"
The main thing is to enjoy your hobby, (without endangering or annoying anyone else - sometimes very difficult, with the "I WILL be offended" brigade ).
Model Engineering, in whatever form we practice it is satisfying and useful. You gain many new friends, even if only temporary as they say "Can you just?"" To look at the repaired "unfixable" brings great pleasure. At the same time you will expand your knowledge, of engineering and of people.. We all do.
And now back to the workshop!
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