Here is a list of all the postings Howard Lewis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford super 7 oiling|
For what my advice is worth, Don't buy the Myford oil gun. MIne lubricated everything except the part that need it it!
It was a little ,pom pom type that leaked everywhere.
I thought that the Reilang was expensive, but it has NEVER leaked in all the years that I have had and used it.
The oil goes where I want it!
The savings on oil will probably pay for it!
|Thread: Problem with my downstairs ;)|
Have just used two C spanners to reset the preload on the bearings on my mini lathe.
Which is what your nuts are intended for, by the looks of the picture..
ER collet nuts usually have eight slots rather than four, although a C spanner will tighten or slacken them.
|Thread: Tuna Can Blower|
Again, an Engineer showing his ancestry going back to the Greek root for Ingenious.
Definitely a Like!
|Thread: Help choosing my lathe|
If you buy an old enough machine, you won't have this problem. There won't be any graduated dials, just handles!
My Mill/Drill is Imperial.
My lathe is Metric, but dual dialled. Mostly I work in Imperial, and most of my measuring equipment is Imperial.
A digital calliper, or a DRO, allows working in either.
At CAV we worked almost exclusively in Metric, although the product, being American design, was physically Imperial!
The current project involves a mixture of Imperial and a few Metric dimensions, because i choose to work in Imperial, most of the time.
But I keep a calculator on the shelf. No great problem, working in either.
If you choose to work Metric, use the calculator for any old drawings in Imperial.
You are measuring a distance, only the units differ.
Water boils at 100'Centigrade, at 212'Fahrenheit or 80' Reamur; just depends what units you use to measure it
In photography, speeds ratings were the same for films, there were three speed ratings, depending whether you were European, (Scheiner ), American (ASA ) or Russian (Gost ), and that ignored the pre WW2 Hurter and Driffield ratings and original Weston!
Remember the Amateur radio motto. KISS, and don't make needless complications!
|Thread: Warco lathe feedscrew shear pin|
On my BL12-24 (Warco BH 600 or Chester Craftsman) I replaced the original rollpins !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
by 5 mm brass, drilled through 2.5 mm.
better to have the pin shear than damage the gear train! Even more important if you lathe has plastic gears, or maybe they ARE the weakest link, by design?
|Thread: What geen grinding wheels for tools|
A diamond wheel produces a fine finish, and will sharpen carbide tips. But it really only suitable for honing HSS tools.
A diamond wheel is not suitable for removing lots of stock, only for finish honing.
So my advice is:
Grind HSS with a carborundum wheel, and hone with a diamond.
Grind carbide with a green wheel, and hone with a diamond.
|Thread: Digital verniers|
For rough use, a digital from Lidl suffices. It is so old that then thumb wheel has broken off and the battery cover has to held on with an O ring! It has needed stripping and cleaning from time to time.
Some time ago, MEW did a survey of digital callipers, from the cheap'n cheerful Aldi/Lidl types through to a Mitutoyo at about £80.
Based on this, I bought a M & W from machine DRO for £24. It holds its Zero setting and as the article said, having seemingly no current drain when switched off, the battery is still original. (Some digital callipers use current to sustain the memory, even when switched off, shortening battery life. )
Bob U beat me to it!
I was going to suggest a Worden. Fairly straightforward turning, some simple fitting work to tidy up rough edges. Add a few embellishments of your own, such as pretty chamfered washers and so on, and with a few accessories, (Hemingway, or your own design )you have a really useful machine to keep your cutting tools in good shape.
Go for it!
|Thread: Sent lathe back|
That looks a beauty!
So probably has not been abused, and is ready to plug in and play!
You and your grandson can now enjoy yourselves.
|Thread: Ian S C Back again|
Welcome back, Ian.
Wondered why we hadn't seen much of you for some time.
Hope that all is going well, and continues for the future.
|Thread: Product Descriptions (Up to scratch?)|
The C3 mini lathe manual quotes a 180 mm maximum swing over the bed. The maximum DIAMETER over the Cross Slide is likely to be 100 mm, from memory.
With regard to the maximum size that can be held by a chuck will depend on whether bar or hollow.
100mm bar over the Cross Slide, but a ring upto 180 mm external diameter could be held by chuck jaws gripping the internal diameter, as long as it does not try to pass above the Cross Slide.
Personally, I am not a fan of Machine Mart. The local branch lost my confidence years ago. If I were buying a new lathe, I would rather deal with one of the Model Engineering suppliers.
Having had no experience of Axminster or or Amadeal, cannot comment. But ranked by my experience of other suppliers, my preference would be Arc Euro, Warco and then Chester. But these are purely my preferences, others may have had different experiences.
Edited By Howard Lewis on 20/01/2020 22:21:16
|Thread: Why is my silver steel undersize|
It is possible that your Silver Steel is not round, but is lobed. So it would measure undersize when measured on a diameter, but be a snug fit in a truly round hole, although actually only making contact at three points.
If the bar was reamed with a reamer, firmly held in the Tailstock, it is possible that the reamer was a gnats whisker off centre for some reason. If it was, then some of the cutting edges would act like a boring bar, to produce an oversize hole. It is a good idea for the reamer to float so that it can follow the pilot hole without any external constraint to pull it off centre.
|Thread: Apologies for raising this again|
I believe that the technique with the two bearing crank, (which was less prone to breakage than the later three bearing one ) was to fit low compression pistons in 2 and 3, and high compression in 1 and 4. When the crank whipped at high revs, the compression heights became nearer equal so that each cylinder then produced, all other things being equal, equal power.
Not sure whether it was the Austin 7 or the 1172 Ford E93 engines, tuned by Colin Chapman, which brought about the 750 Club ruling that "The function of the Inlet and Exhaust ports shall not be reversed"
|Thread: Back plunger indicators - does anyone use them?|
Very occasionally, I use one.
They can save a lot of craning of the neck in some situations.
|Thread: New from Essex|
Welcome to the Forum.
You will find loads of help and advice on here.
You are obviously quite familiar with lathes and their uses. Obviously, horses for courses waht you choose will depend on what you want to do with it.
You seem to think that a mini lathe is too small for you expected use. That is understandable. You can do small work in a big lathe, but it is more difficult the other way round!
When I retired in 2003, my ML7 was replaced by an Engineers Tool Room BL12-24, (A Warco BH600 or Chester Craftsman in a different paint scheme ). maybe one of it's successors would meet your needs. But I opted for a conversion to VFD, with which I am very happy.
Possible suppliers, Amadeal, Arc Euro Trade, Axminster, Chester or Warco spring to mind,as possible suppliers.
The exact package on offer and the price will vary from supplier to supplier.
Others on here will give their experiences with these suppliers, ranging from favourable through to the opposite.
I can only comment on my experiences with three of the above, but won't here. See what others say about their machines.
|Thread: Only for Myford lathes|
Another of my hobby horses!
Check that the bed is not twisted. If the bed is twisted, the lathe will cut tapered, rather than parallell.
Various books will tell you how to check, and correct.
L H Sparey's "The Amateur's Lathe" will be an invaluable help on many aspects. It is very much written around the ML7, although some of the drive suggestions seem dated. Chapter 6 deals with lathe tools and grinding them.
"The Myford Series 7 Manual" by Ian Bradley tells how to check if the bed is twisted and how to correct it, on pages 42 and 43. Tool angles are covered on page 52.
Ian Bradley's "The Amateur's Workshop" covers things other than lathes, but Chapter 9 is devoted to lathe tools.
Pages 27 and 28, again, cover levelling the lathe.
Another good reference book on many aspects of Model Engineering is Tubal Cain's "Model Engineer's Handbook". Again, it contains details of the angles at which to grind tools, in addition to a HUGE range of information that will be useful in the future.(Screw thread dimensions for instance )
The money, and time, spent in buying and studying these books will be invaluable.
|Thread: Drilling holes using pillar drill - work wobbling|
A quick and nasty way of centering a predrilled hole under a larger drill is to lower the larger drill into the hole, and to rotate the drill, BY HAND, backwards. Once the job is centred in this way, bolt it down so that it cannot move,
|Thread: Myford super 7|
Your piece of steel looks, to me, to be torn, rather than cut cleanly.
This suggests to me possible causes, whether in isolation or in combination. A tool that is not sharp; tool off centre height; or wrong cutting speed for the material.
You might do better to use a High Speed Tool, which can be ground on an average grey carborundum wheel.
Not clear from the photo that your brazed carbide tool is really sharp.
Grind the HSS to give 5 degrees clearance on all faces, front, side and top (otherwise known as "rake" ) For these purposes, The exact angle probably does not matter too much as long as it is somewhere between 5 and 10 degrees.
One thing which has not been mentioned, is one of my hobby horses, setting the cutting edge exactly on centre height. Too high and the tool rubs rather than cutting, too low and the clearance angles are wrong.
A quick check on the tool, being at centre height is that when facing, there should be no "pip" at the centre. If there is, the tool is not at centre height. Shim it until there is no "pip".
My advice would then be to make up a simple centre height gauge.
PM me with an E mail address, and I'll send a picture of the one that I made, and constantly use.
Once you have confidence that the tool is sharp and on centre height, you can begin to look at the ".What is itesium?" that you are trying to cut.
Also, what is your cutting speed? For Mild Steel, most folk would be aiming for about 100 feet / minute.
So for 1 inch diameter, the speed should not exceed 380 rpm. If in doubt, go slower.
Don't rush the feed. Difficult to estimate, but try to aim for about 0.004" / rev.
Don't be so slow that the tool rubs, rather than cutting. This generates heat which softens the tool so that it looses its edge, and becomes blunt. And so the vicious circle continues!
For this you have to learn how to turn the traverse wheel at a constant sped. This will require both hands, smoothly changing over the drive from one hand to the other.
You could use the power feed, via the Leadscrew, but that is a complication far too far for you at this stage, I suspect.
Also, putting a small radius on the cutting edge of the tool would improve the finish. But DON'T try this yet, or you might make the tool rub.
You have taken the first steps; just build on these. You need to to learn to walk before running!
These more advanced techniques can come after mastering the basics. We are all on a learning curve. None of us know everything!
|Thread: Hello from Luxembourg (with a Russian flavor)|
Lots of help and advice, as well as much of interest on here.
there is always something of interest and to learn on the Forum.
There will be things where you can help and increase our knowledge.
With a lathe, your horizons will greatly widen. Lots of jobs which were impossible, or imprecise will now be possible,
And many of which you have not yet thought!
|Thread: Face Mill for lathe|
Surface finish is basically the shape of the cut, and the space between the cuts.
So, for the same feed rate,
Using a flycutter ground as if for screwcutting is likely to produce a "rougher" finish than that from a cutter with a small nose radius, because the form of the cut is more pronounced. i.e a V groove versus a flat with radius leading into the vertical face.
After all, is that not what we do with cutters on our lathes?
In my experience, cutting becomes smoother as a multi tooth cutter engages further with the work, so that more than one tooth is cutting at a given instant. Initially, only one tooth contacts the work, but as the feed progresses, a second tooth begins to cut, and so on, providing a steadying influence on the cutter, and reducing any deflection, however small.
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