Here is a list of all the postings ken king, King Design has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Centec 2B - New arrival and Q&A|
For my Centec I have two drill chucks of differing capacities. The smaller drives via the MT alone with the drawbar just resting on it, whilst the larger 1/2" chuck employs the drawbar. I remove the larger by slackening the drawbar a turn or two, then giving a sharp blow, BUT I always lock the spindle vertical travel first to protect it from the whack. I'd much rather use this axial force method than a wedge or wedges which will inevitably apply asymmetric shock loads to the bottom spindle bearings, quite different to sideways cutter forces.
Enjoy your mill,
|Thread: Belt Sander Belt Recommendation Please|
Try AbTec. They are helpful and list your belt size in a variety of grits for different materials, wood, metals, ceramics, glass etc.
|Thread: Editing my own thread|
Hi Neil, I've inadvertently duplicated my post 'A bowmaker's jig', the two versions appearing seconds apart in the Work completed etc, forum. No idea how I did it Apologies, and will you kindly eliminate one of them so all replies or viewings relate to just one of them? Your help greatly appreciated,
|Thread: Bowstring maker's jig|
A client asked if I would make this jig, similar to other homemade or proprietary units, so that he cn make his own bowstrings and maybe supply others too.
The jig comprises two main elements, each a tee-shaped assembly of steel plates, the cross-piece capable of being swivelled 90 degrees. The two elements are mounted, and slide, on a spine of Unistrut channel as used in factory ceilings for suspending services like lights or sprinklers.
Each cross-piece carries two sturdy posts topped by dowel pins, around which string strands are wound. Plates are 75mm x 12mm section and the posts 25mm diameter, so this really is a sturdy assembly.
.Here the elements are close together for the photograph, but in practice will be some distance apart, determined by desired overall string length.
Each element has two clamping knobs, one through the pivot point, (a more refined arrangement than some varieties) and another at the tail end. The swivelling cross-piece is provided with a locking dowel at each 90 degree position.
Clamps operate on discs relieved centrally to ensure clamping occurs at the periphery for maximum effect.
A further rquirement is the ability to stretch strings to a predetermined tension, and this is achieved through a plug-in module which fits into the end of the Unistrut, and incorporates an M12 leadscrew running through engine valve-springs, and an angular contact ballrace to act as both a journal and thrust race, housed in the plug-in block body.
The module is plugged in, and the main element is slid along to allow the leadscrew to enter a threaded block below the pivot clamp.
With string attached between the far element (locked in place) and the near element (free to slide), turning the leadscrew tensions the string whilst compressing the springs. Calibration shows that 22mm compression gives 150lbs tension, a target figure shown in this position.
In practice I expect the Unistrut will be firmly fixed to a builders' board, worktop or similar.
You now know as much about making bowstrings as I do, i.e. not a lot, but YouTube videos are available which explain all. It's more involved than you might think.
|Thread: Motor for ML7|
What helpful chaps you all are, thank you. Trevor, I've sent you a message,
Hmm ... situation unchanged apparently. There is still a dead spot requiring some hand rotation to get going, but for the moment I can use the lathe on that basis to clear a job. Do the symptoms suggest a dead field winding perhaps (my understanding is sketchy) and if so is it practical to consider repair rather than replacement ?
Rob, thanks for going to so much trouble. It's a single phase non-capacitor motor, and as I had nothing to lose I took one end off and cleaned up the centrifugal switch contacts and ring, (thanks for the tip Mike) and blew all the swarf out, at which point didn't my wee compressor give up the ghost with a dribble of smoke ? Gremlins are swarming, so look out !
Reassembly is under way, sufficiently advanced to say the motor runs again, but not yet fully integrated into lathe so unsure about revs being achieved, but looking much better, thanks to all.
Help ! The Metro-Vickers motor, type BS 2408, 1/3 hp, 1425 rpm, of my old ML7 has just gone phut. Initially it developed a dead spot and would not start unless rotated a 1/4 turn or so. Now it just buzzes at me or creeps round at extremely slow speed.
Any suggestions for sourcing a reasonably priced replacement will be hugely appreciated, or if you have a suitable motor spare please let me know so we can discuss price etc.
|Thread: Can Loctite 638 really be this good?|
Is this too simple ? just run it past Henkel's technical support people and follow their reccomendation. I have always found them extremely helpful, no matter how small the scale of the request.
|Thread: Model car clutch pads - where ?|
My thanks to all responders to my request. Between you I've been supplied with several sources for these parts. Just goes to show, when you know where to look......., and now I do.
Thanks AlanW and clogs for your suggestions. The thing is, I'm not just after some friction pad material, but Stoneder or similar centrifugal clutch parts which comprise a metal shoe with pivot hole, and friction material on the outside face. These would lend themselves perfectly to my intended used as brake shoes in wheel hubs of a large RC model aircraft . If I can find a supplier it will save a lot of fabrication effort. I haven't given up, I know they are out there,
|Thread: Effect of Tensioning a Boring Bar|
I remember that in late 50's/early 60's at the College of Aeronautics (as was), Cranfield, experiments were being carried out to examine and quantify the increase in strength of hollow struts which could be achieved by pressurising them. Being struts they were by definition loaded in compression, and the pressure would induce lonitudinal tension stress as well as hoop stress. If any of you can make a connection between this and boring bars I'd like to read it,
|Thread: Model car clutch pads - where ?|
I'd like to get hold of some Stoneder centrifugal clutch pads, or similar product, to fit inside a 52mm drum or thereabouts. A couple of suppliers I've tried list them, but out of stock. Any suggestions will be gratefully received.
Dimensions are not carved in stone, early design days so can be flexible.
|Thread: Just for fun what’s this stuck in my tyre?|
I would guess a golf tee.
|Thread: Are there any left?|
Sorry, didn't answer your question as I was caught up in reverie. No, I think it was all snapped up and tailed off quite quickly, at least the useful stuff, but who knows ...... lurking in a forgotten barn/cellar/storeroom ... one can still dream of discovering treasure.
'Government Surplus' was the generic title of all those goodies. Huge and often bewildering variety of stuff, excellent quality, and all at knock-down prices. Happy Days.
|Thread: Dam Solution?|
To All, and Rod Renshaw in particular ... Having thought a little more I'm not sure I can agree with what I wrote just above. My hypothetical syphon pipe starts off closed at each end, and is filled via a port at the top. When the port is closed we have a filled syphon, but, when either end is opened its column of water would fall to a level 32 feet above the adjacent water surface, because that's as much as 1 atmosphere can support, and we would have a vacuum zone, longer on the discharge side than the draw side, and a static situation i.e. no flow and no help to anyone.
This will teach me to do my thinking before I write, and to do it at home and not on the forum. Apologies all round,
(slinks off, stage left)
Rod Renshaw, regarding that 32 foot lip ...... correct up to a point, but .....
1 atmosphere will push water 32 feet, and no more, up a longer vertical pipe sealed at the top, and evacuated of all air. Here's the 'but', if a syphon pipe is constructed, exceeding the 32 foot draw pipe length, but with an even longer discharge pipe, then it will syphon, provided the entire pipe is initially filled with water. 32 feet of the discharge pipe cancels out 32 feet of drawpipe and we have a working syphon. Of course we must remember when talking about pipe lengths, we should really be referring to differences in water level on each side of the syphon. For practical reasons the draw pipe would have to extend some distance below the surface to avoid whirlpools admitting air into the flow (killing the syphon dead0 and similarly the discharge pipe should end underwater to avoid sneaky bubbles creeping upward against the flow (similar effect).
|Thread: "I'm calling about your accident" - how does this scam work?|
I used to politely tell them not to bother me, but after so many of these calls over an extended period I now automatically switch to my second language, which is basic Anglo-Saxon.
|Thread: Wood in small (or large) amounts|
I may be wrong, but I think Limewood is highly prized for carving due to fine, straight grain and excellent cutting characteristics. Wasn't it used extensively by Grinling Gibbons ? Look at his work with undercut detail and be prepared to be amazed. I'd love to know how he sharpened his chisels and gouges.
If I'm right, you missed a golden opportunity, and you know what Omar Khayam said about that.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.