Here is a list of all the postings MattK has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Welding Gas|
I don't know what the rules are on this forum for mentioning another forum but if you google for "Volkszone Offer" there is a good offer with BOC. I got mine from a local welding supplier (Argoshield) for about £100 for a half size? cylinder with no rental but that was years ago and there is loads left.
|Thread: ArcEuro Model 100 QCTP on a Myford ML7?|
+1 for the A&R toolpost and holders. Well made bit of kit. I know they sell on ebay occasionally and better quality than the Chinese clones (I have a few of these holders too). He's got some nice rear toolpost sets on fleabay now.
|Thread: First Time Milling Cutter Issues Help Needed Please|
Are those 'scars' on the plate signs of the dig in of the cutter? I have a bigger mill so don't have first hand experience of how rigid these machines are, but you have three factors stacked against you, climb milling as mentioned earlier, not a very rigid setup (even with a thick plate I reckon these will be a few thou deflection on that much overhang once some cutter load is applied) and maybe quite a large cutter relative to the machine size?
I can see your dilemma though with a plate bigger than the table. Maybe you could clamp to the table with some thin card underneath by clamping across the edge you are trying to mill. Maybe need to carefully move the clamping rather than doing it in single passes.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 tailstock barrel key|
Thanks for the replies. Very helpful. Interestingly the spare that I have (which I managed to find) is one piece and has the 'ears' as described. The one that is in there though was clearly designed as two pieces and is not a broken version of the spare I have. It is similar to the replacement without the ears but the whole thing cut diagonally so as it is tapped in it would tighten in the hole. I wish I had taken a picture now but I tapped it back in and the barrel won't rotate now. If it works loose again I will see if my spare fits.
I hope one of you very knowledgeable chaps can help. The tailstock barrel on my Mk.1 Super 7 has started to rotate. When I took a look on mine the key lock is a two piece affair which appears to be inserted from the outside and wedges together and looks like it has worked its way out a bit. It does not look particularly worn. Would I be right in just tapping it back into the hole (aligned with the barrel of course)?
I also remember buying a replacement bit to make an order up once but this looks like it is inserted from inside the barrel. Is this a later modification in how this works?
Apologies if my explanation is not very clear.
|Thread: New Lathe leveling|
This has been covered a number of times. When I have done it I have turned a test bar and measured the diameters at each end. Google "Rollies Dads method" for a way to do this with a minimum of kit or look at Harold Hall's site who explains how he does this. I used both these methods and got good results.
|Thread: Am I missing something here?|
They have sold others for £125.99 if you look at the listing carefully. Vendors use to this trick (putting stupid prices) on ebay to avoid extra relisting charges when they are out of stock as they usually let these listings run and run.
|Thread: Removing hardened Cement from Metal|
I'd give brick acid a go. You can buy it in Wickes in a gallon (or whatever the metric is) container. Have used it to get plaster off my aluminium plastering hawk and it worked ok. Don't know what it would do if the ally was lacquered though.
I wouldn't touch hydroflouric acid. I used to work with it when I worked for Sony TVs. They used it to clean the glass which it etches. Corrodes stainless too. Very nasty if it gets on you. We were told it can turn you bones to a jelly by removing the calcium which may sound extreme but I do believe it can attack bone from getting it on the skin.
|Thread: Alternative to Myford Super 7 stand/cabinet?|
Here is a picture of how it looks (excuse the state of the lathe). A little long maybe...
Glad you got sorted. I like the industrial stand. My S7 is on an ML8 (the wood lathe) Myford stand. These often make peanuts on a well known auction site (one made £46 the other day) and their construction is heavy duty and looks very similar to the metal lathe cabinet just a little longer. I can't compare the two but I wouldn't mind betting they are almost identical.
|Thread: Collet Blocks - your advice please..|
Thanks Peter (x2), I forgot about the other shapes available in 5C. I don't seem to need this so ER it is then. I have a Bridgeport J head so I was thinking ER32?
Although I have a lathe and a mill, I am still building up my tooling and while I am looking out for a reasonably sized dividing head, my needs are usually pretty trivial in that I need to cut a square or hex end on a shaft. It seems to me that the common solution to this is to buy a 5C collet block, but I see now that there are ER collet blocks available. As I don't have either ER or 5C collets would I be better investing in ER collets as at least on the face of it, I think the ER collets may be more versatile than 5C or am I missing something?
As far as I understand it, ER collets have a 'range' of clamping sizes and can also be used to hold tools with a decent clamping force (with a chuck). Am I right in thinking 5C collets are not great at either of these points?
|Thread: Flying Bridgeport, where to start!? lots of questions.|
I will draw a diagram up but it is very trivial in my case. The switch for the head which has stop, run and reverse settings goes direct to the inputs on the inverter for the head. I also have a remote potentiometer with the three inputs also going direct to the inverter. There is Live and neutral power and three outputs direct to the motor. If the motor rotates in the opposite direction this can be remedied by either changing two output phases around or setting a reverse bit on the inverter. The table drive has a switch to run it (otherwise it would be on all the time), power and the outputs again to the motor.
Everything should be earthed for safety. I will also wire in the emergency stop but only in the simple case of putting the normally closed switch to the inverter.
As KWIL states a power outage situation is not covered by this solution.
|Thread: eBAY - Shill Bidding|
I've missed a few through bad connection etc. One site I used to use (bumblebee - police disposal) adds 10 mins from last bid if near the end so eliminates sniping.
I always use option 2. I lose more than I win but thats OK. Option 3 breaks ebay rules but I have done some deals with the seller when going to view an item before. If they want to break the rules thats up to them.
I don't follow your logic. If you think it is worth more to you than it sells for then put your limit in. The highest bidder wins. I have used ebay for years and whilst it is true there are a few things against it, the bidding system is fair in my view. The other point is that if there are no real bargains to be had then it can be a great place to sell stuff. I have sold a few items recently and they made good money. My experience is that most people on there are fair people. It always pays to dig around, look at their feedback etc. as there are people I would not deal with on there.
|Thread: Flying Bridgeport, where to start!? lots of questions.|
Apologies if you already know this...
I am assuming your control box on the side of the column has a number of three phase contactors. These are normally actuated by the switches on the front control panel. With vfd drives the contactors become redundant and the switches can be used as direct inputs to the inverters. I don't have the switch panel like yours so cannot guess exactly what the configuration is but that's how mine is done. I wired up a bit of functionality at a time and had no problems. Now just got to figure out how to get the emergency stop to work on both inverters but think it will be no problem.
I can see your dilemma. For what its worth I would be surprised if the table drive motor cannot be rewired to be 230V. I did mine OK although there are no links in the terminal box, there is a connector block. Can you read the motor plate as this will indicate whether it is dual voltage?
Mine does not have a suds pump so cannot comment on that. I also think that if you can match the voltages from the head motor and the suds pump, you could drive them both off the same Vfd as long as the bigger motor was running when the smaller one was. I have seen this somewhere on a Harrison lathe conversion and I also note that Teco mention running more than one motor in their online manual but not in the printed one you get in the box.
Probably the cheapest way to get it all going is to use a static or rotary converter to power the whole machine. Where you will lose out doing it this way is the variable speed which you can just dial up which I think is great on the J pulley head.
I have a BP of a similar vintage to yours. It has a smaller motor fitted which is only 1HP on the J Head but it is nearly new and OK for me. I also have the same table feed as yours. I think the 6F feed is the electronic one that came a little later. I fitted two 1HP VFDs to mine and finished getting it all working yesterday. I have remote start/stop/reverse and a speed pot on the head and a speed controller pot now on the table feed. One of the things I like about this machine is that the only electronics are on the VFDs I've fitted.
I was trying to control costs a bit so I just bought a few R8 collets and cutters to match and so far happy with them. I would like to get an ER chuck later though. I have not bolted mine down yet, in fact it is still on scaffold pipe rollers as I am still deciding about final position in the workshop.
If you have not already got it, a PDF of the manual is easy to get hold of on the web. Worth getting hold of.
Personally I would look for an older vice as I think your money may go further, but it is the usual thing about wear etc. Mine came with a big Jones & Shipman and somebody had drilled it and pinned it to the table which is OK I guess as it is simple and accurate to relocate.
Milling on this machine is a real pleasure compared to my efforts on the slide on my Myford S7. I think the extra stiffness of the BP makes life easier.
|Thread: Myford ML7 Value?|
Well here would be my thinking.....
As mentioned before the condition is really important but if I assume that the condition is good as in used and useable as is with no need for replacement parts then I would pay around £400 for the basic machine with a 3 jaw chuck, a face plate and some change wheels. Of the accessories, the 4 jaw and the steadies would probably cost around another £140 - £150. To me there are around £80 worth of other accessories.
As a complete package I would say around £600. Others may disagree and condition makes a huge difference. I am comparing with my purchase of a Super 7 in good condition which I paid £500 for with changewheels, 3 jaw chuck, face plate and a few bits and pieces. But I have bought a fair few bits and pieces for it since pushing my outlay up a few hundred quid which is why I think some of the accessories also increase the value.
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